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Sub clipping after setting gains - SMD DD1


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Buy a agm battery and try that and u can always do the big 3 all that stuff is removable and can transfer to other cars 2 agm batteries can be ran parallel together

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4 hours ago, Big Tex db said:

 

A combination of remote knob turned down some, but HU turning up would cause it.  Or, HU turned down some and remote knob turning up would cause it.  This was after setting the amp's gain via the distortion light turning on continuously, then backing off until it turned off. 

I tried tuning the gains with the remote knob at 50% and 75% but the DD1 would not show me a continuous distortion light even when I had the amp gain all the way up to 100%.  Once I realized this, I've always had the remote knob at 100% when tuning the amp's gain.

 

 

 

It is not just blinking.  I've noticed the distortion light consistently blinking 1 or 2 times before I would find the point the distortion light would turn on continuously.  Just like in many of Meade's instructional videos on YouTube.

 

Yes my signal light is on. 

 

 

 

I am considering the big 3 upgrade in the future.  I want to do more research on alternators, batteries, and such before moving on with further audio projects for this truck.  I've just recently started a new career and might purchase another truck within the next year.  Not sure how committed I am to spending more money on the current truck.

 

The box looked and felt solid during installation of the sub.  All of the corners and bracings appeared to be secure and sealed.  It had decent reviews online, but who knows if they were throwing a 1000sub in their box.  I do plan to build my own box when I have the time and plan to get as close to the 1cu ft recommended by Soundstream.

 

I've read wishy-washy opinions about adding stuffing to a sealed box.  I currently have nothing added inside of this box.  Any thoughts on this?

Poly-fil is really only used to "trick" the subwoofer into thinking it's in a bigger enclosure than it is. I don't think you'd need that 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Upon further research, I might had been bottoming out my sub.  Clean signal, just too much movement for the sub.  I'm in a slightly oversized (+ .1-.2cu ft) sealed enclosure compared what is recommended on manufacturers website.

 

It's a 1000w rms 2ohm DVC sub.  Currently wired parallel to 1ohm.  The amp is stable at 1500w 1ohm, 1000w 2 ohm, and 700w 4ohm.

 

I'm going to rewire in a series to 4ohm and see how she likes it with only 700w.

 

It's been running great with the gain set way below it's distortion point. Infact even getting a little warm/smelly a couple of times.  For a single 12 in a sealed box, it's been hitting strong and clean.

 

I'm itching to try a ported box, but can't justify the cabin space I'd lose in the truck, and possibly lose some quality of sound.

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6 hours ago, Big Tex db said:

Upon further research, I might had been bottoming out my sub.  Clean signal, just too much movement for the sub.  I'm in a slightly oversized (+ .1-.2cu ft) sealed enclosure compared what is recommended on manufacturers website.

 

It's a 1000w rms 2ohm DVC sub.  Currently wired parallel to 1ohm.  The amp is stable at 1500w 1ohm, 1000w 2 ohm, and 700w 4ohm.

 

I'm going to rewire in a series to 4ohm and see how she likes it with only 700w.

 

It's been running great with the gain set way below it's distortion point. Infact even getting a little warm/smelly a couple of times.  For a single 12 in a sealed box, it's been hitting strong and clean.

 

I'm itching to try a ported box, but can't justify the cabin space I'd lose in the truck, and possibly lose some quality of sound.

I don't think you where bottoming out. That sub on a 1500 watt amplifier playing regular music shouldn't be an issue at all. If you want to get technical, after impedance rise, that sub was lucky to see 1000 watts, if it even ever saw that. 

With the gain way below the distortion point, the sub should never get warm and smelly. That's your coil getting too hot and working towards failure. 

I don't think your box is too big. On average, seasoned box designers I've spoken to say they have no problem going 20% bigger than the manufacturers specifications. Your box is almost perfectly 20% bigger than the manufacturer recommendation. 

There's something else going on. Have you checked your amplifiers ground with a multimeter to just double check to make sure it's a good spot? There are tons of videos on YouTube explaining how to do so. 

How far away from the enclosure is the back of the motor off the sub? If it's too close, the subwoofer won't be able to get air into the voice coil to properly cool it. 

Hand you checked the impedance of each voice coil separately to make sure they read near 2 ohm each, and read somewhat similar? 

 

 

Edited by Dafaseles

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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I apologize if somebody already recommended this but did you validate your wattage to your subs with a voltage meter? If your subs are mechanically bottoming out it kind of sounds like they are over powered. There are a ton of useful videos on YouTube on setting your gain if you haven’t tried that yet.

Edited by Homeskillet
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