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1 amp for front speakers?


Liljxthexripper

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30 minutes ago, Liljxthexripper said:

dont have them in yet but i have these for tweets going to replace the air vent tweets, they do have caps, not sure if ill need to remove them with an appropriate amp and set crossovers
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/6954223985587326798?q=audio+legion+6.5+neo+mid&biw=1920&bih=937&dpr=2&prds=eto:5782601333712829405_0&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjBk5z8m4X1AhXaSTABHcCDDXcQ8wIIzRA
i also have the 6.5 inch neo mids from them but not the slims, rated 100 rms each

and i do have the sundown sa coaxials v1 in the back rated at 50 rms

So you will have a set of 6.5's and those bullet tweeters up front, then some 6.5" coaxils in the back?

100 watts per channel at 4 ohm should do you fine. Though you Portugal don't want to send a full 100 watts to those tweeters. They are LOUD!

That Audio Control amp is solid! And yes, with the RCA outputs, you can just take those straight into your bass amp. The only thing I would want to double check on (which I can check, but I'm out and about with the wife right now. I'll download the manual when I get home), is if the crossover filters can be completely turned off. Meaning, for your tweeters, you won't need a low pass filter, just a high pass. So you need to be able to turn the LPF off on those channels. Same thing on your coaxils. On your 6.5's, you'll want to set both a high pass, and s low pass filter. 

What has caps? The stock tweeters you want to replace? 

 

 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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26 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

So you will have a set of 6.5's and those bullet tweeters up front, then some 6.5" coaxils in the back?

100 watts per channel at 4 ohm should do you fine. Though you Portugal don't want to send a full 100 watts to those tweeters. They are LOUD!

That Audio Control amp is solid! And yes, with the RCA outputs, you can just take those straight into your bass amp. The only thing I would want to double check on (which I can check, but I'm out and about with the wife right now. I'll download the manual when I get home), is if the crossover filters can be completely turned off. Meaning, for your tweeters, you won't need a low pass filter, just a high pass. So you need to be able to turn the LPF off on those channels. Same thing on your coaxils. On your 6.5's, you'll want to set both a high pass, and s low pass filter. 

What has caps? The stock tweeters you want to replace? 

 

despite not showing it the tweeters have pretty huge caps. and that is also what im looking forward to for individual gain set per channels. to be able to turn them down...

lol ill be honest i test a lot on my pyle headunit in the house because itss 4-16ohm and provides a lot of power. and yeah.. those tweeters are screamers. same with the neos and the sundown coax. since i put the neos up front i had original bought f of the sundown coax and so i have 2 extra... made a center speaker and i end up having to turn it down because it overpowers the surround sound. id like to make appropriate boxes for both to get the actual depth tuning right and have those as front speakers and do something else with my rears and center. i already have my old sundown sa r3 as my sub.... hahah. and it works hella nice.

but i think i would stick with the audio control amp and save up money. problem is i put a lot of things in loan services like my new computer parts and tvs, balance loan for bank, and then i have my car payment and regular bills, so till i get that all sorted im definitely short on it. thankfully the neo mids sound good on stock power but i definitely dont get the pounding mid bass from the lack of power compared to how the stock mids perform of course.

but no biggie at all, ive been going through a lot in terms of learning in a few different areas, but then back to work today and always helping family so i dont want to intrude myself. I do really appreciate all the help. at least with the audio control i dont think i could actually do anything wrong but will research more myself when i get a chance

 

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2 hours ago, Liljxthexripper said:

 

Yeah dude, you spend the money once on quality equipment, then you save money on the long run not having to upgrade because you cheaped out and it's not enough, or it craps out on you. That Audio Control amp, where it is expensive, will do your factory integration upgrade well. 

Don't stop learning. Show me a man who knows everything, and I'll show you a fool. There's always something important to learn, you just have to find it sometimes. 

 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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18 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

Yeah dude, you spend the money once on quality equipment, then you save money on the long run not having to upgrade because you cheaped out and it's not enough, or it craps out on you. That Audio Control amp, where it is expensive, will do your factory integration upgrade well. 

Don't stop learning. Show me a man who knows everything, and I'll show you a fool. There's always something important to learn, you just have to find it sometimes. 

 


true, speaking of which while waiting on my pc case i decided to figure out how to get to my tweeters. and that was easy, the tweeters had a small cap at 3.3 uhj  50v or something of that nature. and so i was simply going to test the 1 inch high comp speakers (they have a cap of 250v at 3.3 uhj) but it did seem like they were underpowered.. or they just sounded like crap. the gauge wiring for the stock  tweeter was 16 at least, thicker than i thought it would be. so i expect they were planning on putting some power to it. but then i also tried to hook it up to my headunit in my house at 4 ohms as they are rated and it also sounded like crap. so i then even tried to use a 4.5inch 300 watt rms super bullet tweeter as its called, and it actually sounded better than the 1 inch ones in my car. although it was still rough. and it also had a static hum even while the car was completely off. so of course i disconnected it but im just not understanding if its simply underpowered, or bad cap. or if somehow it was already blown? its wierd that it seemed to draw its own power too. but i did a lot of searching on google and it seems i couldnt find the right thing at ll

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1 hour ago, Liljxthexripper said:


true, speaking of which while waiting on my pc case i decided to figure out how to get to my tweeters. and that was easy, the tweeters had a small cap at 3.3 uhj  50v or something of that nature. and so i was simply going to test the 1 inch high comp speakers (they have a cap of 250v at 3.3 uhj) but it did seem like they were underpowered.. or they just sounded like crap. the gauge wiring for the stock  tweeter was 16 at least, thicker than i thought it would be. so i expect they were planning on putting some power to it. but then i also tried to hook it up to my headunit in my house at 4 ohms as they are rated and it also sounded like crap. so i then even tried to use a 4.5inch 300 watt rms super bullet tweeter as its called, and it actually sounded better than the 1 inch ones in my car. although it was still rough. and it also had a static hum even while the car was completely off. so of course i disconnected it but im just not understanding if its simply underpowered, or bad cap. or if somehow it was already blown? its wierd that it seemed to draw its own power too. but i did a lot of searching on google and it seems i couldnt find the right thing at ll

I don't understand all the caps and how they work as passive crossovers. The only thing I can think of is it's crossing over the frequency too low for those tweeters. Tweeters are VERY fragile. Even the high powered ones. Hopefully they're not blown 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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