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Upgrading from 8's to 10's


Champion31337
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1 hour ago, Champion31337 said:

Their calculator tells me 4 inch diameter by 7 inches length.  This port goes from front to back of box at dead center of box.  It's limited but per their specs it fits perfect.  Not saying their specs are correct but I did what they said.  I will tell ya it moves air so harsh it will swirl the whole cab at heavy low notes.  All subs share air space.  It is all 1 chamber.  Last box I had i split into 2 chambers and had 1 ports coming off each side.  I thought it was suffocating them so I made this and it did improve the low end.

 

 

Your box will play like ported at very low power levels but as soon as you up levels it will play like an oversized sealed box unfortunately losing you all potential output like if there was no port.

 

The PSP calculator does not factor in port area, that's for you to know before using it, you see that's why you have different port diameters to choose from.

 

At this point you can keep your box as is and keep losing output or rebuild, and I say rebuild because an 8" port long as it needs to be for low tuning will change the size of the box quite a bit on the same net volume, if you don't want to buy another round port you can do a slot ported design, the port is made with the same wood you use for the box.

 

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10 minutes ago, Joe X said:

 

 

Your box will play like ported at very low power levels but as soon as you up levels it will play like an oversized sealed box unfortunately losing you all potential output like if there was no port.

 

The PSP calculator does not factor in port area, that's for you to know before using it, you see that's why you have different port diameters to choose from.

 

At this point you can keep your box as is and keep losing output or rebuild, and I say rebuild because an 8" port long as it needs to be for low tuning will change the size of the box quite a bit on the same net volume, if you don't want to buy another round port you can do a slot ported design, the port is made with the same wood you use for the box.

 

Yaaaaa lol just another embarrassing thing I've searched Google far and wide for an answer.  I dont know how to build slot port for my exact type of enclosure.  Let me explain.....it's wedge style and the front height is more then rear height.  Therefore I don't know how to calculate area per the change as the height of the port reduces as it goes back.  I hope I'm explaining this right.

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34 minutes ago, Champion31337 said:

Yes I do now.  That's exactly what their calculator called for.  Their calculator has the option of configuring for multiple ports but I choose single port and for 3.0 cubic feet the given specs were produced.20211229_180447.thumb.jpg.a0d3fd82391bd350650446f2ede8e79a.jpg

Where did you get or how did you make those grills? I like those

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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26 minutes ago, Champion31337 said:

Yaaaaa lol just another embarrassing thing I've searched Google far and wide for an answer.  I dont know how to build slot port for my exact type of enclosure.  Let me explain.....it's wedge style and the front height is more then rear height.  Therefore I don't know how to calculate area per the change as the height of the port reduces as it goes back.  I hope I'm explaining this right.

 

If you are fighting for space the better bet is an 8" round port installed on the baffle and bending to continue sideways, a slot port will take more airspace and will force you to increase the box size even more .

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13 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

Where did you get or how did you make those grills? I like those

Thanks!  I the grills from Amazon.  They don't have near enough depth to them.  The sub will slap the hell out of them to where you'd destroy the sub.  So I had to buy nylon spacers (I think they are 1 inch) and place 1 between the grill and the box at each mounting screw hole of the grill.

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3 minutes ago, Joe X said:

 

If you are fighting for space the better bet is an 8" round port installed on the baffle and bending to continue sideways, a slot port will take more airspace and will force you to increase the box size even more .

What if he used a flared round port firing to the side of the enclosure? That would take the need for a bend out, wouldn't it? I mean, of he has room behind the woofers, or if he built a new enclosure with all 4 8's to one side and the port on the other. I don't know how long of a port he needs

Edited by Dafaseles

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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2 minutes ago, Joe X said:

 

If you are fighting for space the better bet is an 8" round port installed on the baffle and bending to continue sideways, a slot port will take more airspace and will force you to increase the box size even more .

8 inch in diameter?  Also I've thought about the bending and wasn't sure you could bend a round port in fear of turbulence causing port chuffing.  Would this be an external port to accommodate for the length?

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1 minute ago, Champion31337 said:

8 inch in diameter?  Also I've thought about the bending and wasn't sure you could bend a round port in fear of turbulence causing port chuffing.  Would this be an external port to accommodate for the length?

 

You install a PVC elbow to make the turn, slow turn if you can find to reduce losses but worry not, ports turn all the time, as long as your airspeed is low enough it's not a problem.

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