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Looking for 1000W @ 1 ohm amp recommendations


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Hey guys, long time, no post.

 

I’ve got some fantasy football $$$ burning a hole in my pocket. 
 

I currently have 2 Rockford P2D2 8s in the back of my Honda Ridgeline, in a ported box, running off an Alpine 500W @ 2 ohms amp (can’t recall the exact model). 
 

I’m considering doubling down and getting two more subs. I’d have to wire them to 1 ohm, so I’d be looking for a solid mono amp that does ~1000 RMS @ 1 ohm.  Thought I’d ask you all for recommendations. 
 

FWIW, given my space restrictions and sub specs (the box is under the rear seat) I’d have to ditch the ported box and build a new sealed one. I barely got away w/ enough space to have two ported. I certainly don’t have the room for 4 ported, but the specs say I’m solid for 4 sealed. Thoughts?

 

Also will certainly need new power wiring (0 gauge), distro block, maybe a battery, etc…. Just trying to nail down the amp for now

 

Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

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49 minutes ago, ColumbusJBR said:

Hey guys, long time, no post.

 

I’ve got some fantasy football $$$ burning a hole in my pocket. 
 

I currently have 2 Rockford P2D2 8s in the back of my Honda Ridgeline, in a ported box, running off an Alpine 500W @ 2 ohms amp (can’t recall the exact model). 
 

I’m considering doubling down and getting two more subs. I’d have to wire them to 1 ohm, so I’d be looking for a solid mono amp that does ~1000 RMS @ 1 ohm.  Thought I’d ask you all for recommendations. 
 

FWIW, given my space restrictions and sub specs (the box is under the rear seat) I’d have to ditch the ported box and build a new sealed one. I barely got away w/ enough space to have two ported. I certainly don’t have the room for 4 ported, but the specs say I’m solid for 4 sealed. Thoughts?

 

Also will certainly need new power wiring (0 gauge), distro block, maybe a battery, etc…. Just trying to nail down the amp for now

 

Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

Do you have a dollar amount you'd like to stay within? 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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18 minutes ago, ColumbusJBR said:

For the amp? Under $500 ideally.  Thanks.

The reason I asked is because of you didn't have a price limit, I would personally choose the Rockford Fosgate

T1000-1bfCP. It'll do 1000 watts at 1 and 2 ohm, then 700 at 4 ohm. But it's expensive. Almost $900.

But, there the B2 riot 1200

https://skyhighcaraudio.com/b2-riot-1200-1/

The DC Audio 1.2k

https://skyhighcaraudio.com/dc-audio-1-2k-1-200w-monoblock-amplifier/

The D'Amore Engineering E1000.1

https://damoreengineering.com/collections/e-series/products/e1000-1

Or the Incriminator Audio IA-10.1

http://incriminatoraudio.com/index.php/products/amplifiers/ia10-1

Me personally, I would either go with the D'Amore amp or the Incriminator of the Fosgate amp is out of your price range. That's just my opinion though

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Follow up question regarding what I’ll need for installation. 
 

I’ve currently got a 4ga power wire running to the rear, which feeds a cheap fused distributor block. 8 gauge leads from the block to a 200W alpine 4 channel (not replacing), and to a  500W alpine mono (replacing, will need 4ga power/ground). Each amp is separately grounded.
 

I’m gonna gut that and run 1/0 to the back (Crutchfield CK1 power kit) which will cover me from the battery to the (new) rear distro block. 
 

I was thinking the SMD double fuse block in the back, so I can go 1/0ga to split fused 4 and 8 ga.


Then run both the 8 and 4ga amp grounds to a (new) SMD UB-4 distro block, and then 1/0 out of there to vehicle ground. 
 

Aside from various ring terminals and such, does it look like I’m on the right path?

 

I’m not opposed to upgrading to a new XS Power battery (D3400 seems to fit the bill), as I’ll be going from 700 total RMS to about 1200, on an all stock electrical. TBD

 

any advice is greatly appreciated!  Thanks!

 

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Vehicle is a 2009 Honda Ridgeline FWIW. I’ve got the box under the rear seat, amps mounted behind the rear seat.  Gonna have to make a new box which is no biggie, but the space restrictions, if I want 4 8” subs, essentially require to go from ported to sealed. Not thrilled about that but I’m hoping essentially doubling the cone area and power will be worth the effort even if I have to ditch the ported box

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2 hours ago, ColumbusJBR said:

Follow up question regarding what I’ll need for installation. 
 

I’ve currently got a 4ga power wire running to the rear, which feeds a cheap fused distributor block. 8 gauge leads from the block to a 200W alpine 4 channel (not replacing), and to a  500W alpine mono (replacing, will need 4ga power/ground). Each amp is separately grounded.
 

I’m gonna gut that and run 1/0 to the back (Crutchfield CK1 power kit) which will cover me from the battery to the (new) rear distro block. 
 

I was thinking the SMD double fuse block in the back, so I can go 1/0ga to split fused 4 and 8 ga.


Then run both the 8 and 4ga amp grounds to a (new) SMD UB-4 distro block, and then 1/0 out of there to vehicle ground. 
 

Aside from various ring terminals and such, does it look like I’m on the right path?

 

I’m not opposed to upgrading to a new XS Power battery (D3400 seems to fit the bill), as I’ll be going from 700 total RMS to about 1200, on an all stock electrical. TBD

 

any advice is greatly appreciated!  Thanks!

 

Running a new 1/0 to the back will be perfect in my opinion, as long as it's OFC cable (oxygen free copper). If it's CCA (copper clad aluminum), it is rated to carry only a fraction of current compared to OFC. If that Crutchfield cable isn't OFC, spend a little more on OFC. You'll never have to worry about it. It's just that much more of a quality component. 

If you haven't done any type of big 3 upgrade to your electrical, I would do so. It basically makes the transfer of electricity flow through the vehicle so much better, upping efficiency to all the electrical components in the vehicle, not just the stereo. But it'll help those amplifiers be able to eat as well. I don't think there's any need to upgrade your alternator, or even upgrade to an expensive AGM. Maybe upgrade to a cheaper duralast AGM if you don't already run an AGM under the hood. But that being said, if you want to spend the extra money on a beast of a battery like an XS battery, that can only help. You can never have to much electrical support. 

You will need a dual fused distribution block in the back, and you will need a single fuse holder under the hood as close to the battery as you can get it, with no more than a 350 amp fuse, and no less than 320-300 amp fuse. This will porter your 1/0 where you can't see it, between the battery and the rear of the vehicle. Or, put the dual distro block under the hood, fuse according to the amplifier manufacturers specs, and send the 4 awg and the 8 awg through the cab to the amplifiers. 

I always had bad luck with sealed enclosure, until my last system (which I ripped out and am currently upgrading). My last system was 4 12" JL Audio W6's sealed. Let me tell you, done right, I was never disappointed with that sealed enclosure. Maybe you'll like it, maybe you won't. But you won't know until you hear it

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Thanks for the advice. Quick follow up question: At the rear distro block, what size fuses should I have for each run? The 4ga run is only a few feet and feeding a ~1000 RMS mono amp, the 8ga run also a few feet, feeding a 200RMS 4 channel amp. Thanks again?

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2 hours ago, ColumbusJBR said:

Thanks for the advice. Quick follow up question: At the rear distro block, what size fuses should I have for each run? The 4ga run is only a few feet and feeding a ~1000 RMS mono amp, the 8ga run also a few feet, feeding a 200RMS 4 channel amp. Thanks again?

What is the make and model of the amplifiers? That will determine the fuse size going from the distro block to the amplifier

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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