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What's a good amp for a Zvx v2 12" subwoofer


BassHeadBlakeYo
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1 hour ago, BassHeadBlakeYo said:

Right, figure a big 3 and a 2nd battery is going to be the biggest help here.
I was offered a older xs power battery (3100d). I could get it for $100, is that a good price? and what do I need to look out for buying something like this battery?
I have a oem battery under the hood, like a liquid filled one, can I just add this to the back of my system with no problems? Do liquid filled battery's and agms play well with each other? 

Bat.jpg

That is a good price if it's legit. 

If you have the opportunity, check the voltage, charge it up, let it sit out of the car for 24 hours, then check the voltage again to make sure it holds a charge like it should. AGM batteries have a life of about 5 years, so all how old or is a well. 

I wouldn't run them together, but people have that I've spoken to and have had no problems. I would at the very least run a battery isolator between the 2. I've always been in the camp of don't mix battery chemistries, but like I said, I've spoken to people whom have had no problems. 

I would also invest in an in dash volt meter. The SMD VM1 is the best in my opinion. It shows the drops the quickest, but even an inexpensive stinger volt meter will help out a lot! Wire it to your amplifier, so you see the voltage at the amp. If it starts to get too low, you can see it, and turn down the slap before it damages anything. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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8 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

That is a good price if it's legit. 

If you have the opportunity, check the voltage, charge it up, let it sit out of the car for 24 hours, then check the voltage again to make sure it holds a charge like it should. AGM batteries have a life of about 5 years, so all how old or is a well. 

I wouldn't run them together, but people have that I've spoken to and have had no problems. I would at the very least run a battery isolator between the 2. I've always been in the camp of don't mix battery chemistries, but like I said, I've spoken to people whom have had no problems. 

I would also invest in an in dash volt meter. The SMD VM1 is the best in my opinion. It shows the drops the quickest, but even an inexpensive stinger volt meter will help out a lot! Wire it to your amplifier, so you see the voltage at the amp. If it starts to get too low, you can see it, and turn down the slap before it damages anything. 

Do you HAVE to have the factory wire on the alt? I'm still charging, and throwing no codes without it on there. Because the lug is so dang thick there's no room for both the factory wire and my aftermarket one

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2 hours ago, BassHeadBlakeYo said:

Do you HAVE to have the factory wire on the alt? I'm still charging, and throwing no codes without it on there. Because the lug is so dang thick there's no room for both the factory wire and my aftermarket one

They say you're supposed to keep your factory wires, just add to them, with all the parts of the big 3...I replaced mine though and have had no problems 🤫

Maybe someone with some real world experience with something bad happening if you change them or can chime in

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2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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