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NEED HELP FINDING 1200 WATT MONOBLOCK


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Im going to be using 2 kicker L7T 12" subwoofers in a sealed box in the back seat of my 2017 toyota tacoma. For door speakers im using 4 6.5" Deafbounce Arnold M65AN on a Down4Sound JP23 1000 watt 4 channel amp. Each kicker subwoofer is 600 watts rms a piece and they will be wired down to 1ohm making the final wattage (rms) 1200 watts. My goal is SPL, I want to rattle the doors off my tacoma. The question is which 1200 watt rms amplifier is best for me, I need a high efficient, not a huge footprint, and an amplifier that can produce the 1200 watts under 14.4 volts. If anyone has any suggestions that I should change in my build im open to new ideas. Thanks for the help

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I like the Kicker CXA1200 as long as you get the newer 1 ohm stable one (46CXA1200.1) if you want to keep the Kicker theme for the subs. That particular amp is 1 ohm stable, but it also produces its 1200w at 2 ohm which will help combat box rise. The downside is they have a fixed subsonic (high pass) filter, but since you're running sealed, setting a specific subsonic isn't as crucial. I think it'll work fine for you. There's a lot of other non kicker options too but I've had great results with kicker amps. The CXA line has done well for me in cars with auto start/stop where the voltage dips and they've never cut out. That amp currently goes for around $400 and the bass knob has to be purchased separately (~$20-30). If that's too much, check out CT Sounds' offerings. The CT-1500.1D (bass knob is included) goes for $200, less if you sign up for their newsletter for a coupon on your first purchase.

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19 hours ago, CorNut said:

I like the Kicker CXA1200 as long as you get the newer 1 ohm stable one (46CXA1200.1) if you want to keep the Kicker theme for the subs. That particular amp is 1 ohm stable, but it also produces its 1200w at 2 ohm which will help combat box rise. The downside is they have a fixed subsonic (high pass) filter, but since you're running sealed, setting a specific subsonic isn't as crucial. I think it'll work fine for you. There's a lot of other non kicker options too but I've had great results with kicker amps. The CXA line has done well for me in cars with auto start/stop where the voltage dips and they've never cut out. That amp currently goes for around $400 and the bass knob has to be purchased separately (~$20-30). If that's too much, check out CT Sounds' offerings. The CT-1500.1D (bass knob is included) goes for $200, less if you sign up for their newsletter for a coupon on your first purchase.

Should I go with the kicker amp you recommended or the DC audio 1.2k both are around the same price. 

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I love DC subs, but the Kicker amp can produce its 1.2k at 1 or 2ohm. I'm honestly not sure if there'd be an audible difference between the 2, but the fact the Kicker can produce the same power at 1 or 2 ohm helps with box rise. 

 

It looks like Amazon has it for $370 right now, it isn't the cheapest amp that's for sure. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NS9SSNK

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Another cool thing about those CXA amps is they can produce their rated power even when the voltage falls. 

I forget who I was watching, but one of the car audio youtube guys I watch got invited to go to Kicker HQ. They where dynoing amps on the dyno, and they stayed talking to one of the engineers. So they dropped the voltage down to like 10v, and the amp still did its rated power, certified. Of course, they don't recommend it, but that's a pretty cool feature as well. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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