Blowing 500 amp fuses

[DrDave]

Hello everyone! First time poster. I'm running 1 ds18 15' high excursion dual 1 ohm 4000 rms on a d818 hko3 1 ohm 3000 rms.

6500 watts rms @ 0.5 ohms. I have a 320 amp alt, big 3 upgrade, and 2 150 agms in a 2010 Lincoln MKZ. I'm blowing 500 amp fuses because the amp is pulling over 550 amps. Any suggestions on a fix? I'm kinda desperate. 

[Dafaseles]

I assume you're running it at .5 ohm?

With the dual power inputs, the manufacturer recommends 300 amps of fusing, so 2 150 amp fuse (one on each input).

To get 6500 watts at .5 on though, you'll need at least 650 amps of fusing. Maybe a little more, maybe a little less. But usually, if you multiply the fuse rating by 10, you can guesstimate an amplifiers power output. 

If you're going to run it at .5 ohm daily, up the fusing to 300-325 amp fuses on each positive run. Make sure you're using OFC cable, because CCA cable can burn pulling that much amperage. 

If the fuses are still popping, then there's a pretty good chance the amplifier board is shorting out somewhere. 

Just be careful. Pushing that kind of power through can be dangerous. It's not recommended, even though DS-18 lists the power at .5. Watch your wires, inspect them every so often. Feel your amplifier every now and again also. Make sure it's not getting too hot. That's how car fires happen. 

Another precaution you can take is to purchase those dual to single amp inputs. So you'll have 4 runs on 1/0 going into the amp, and 4 runs coming out. That will reduce the load of each cable, and improve the efficiency of the amplifier. 

[SnowDrifter]

I'm rather curious how you have this wired

Amp has dual 0ga inputs. But you blowing a 550 amp fuse? or a pair of 550a fuses?

What conditions does it blow under, and *which* fuse in your system is going? Wiring diagram would be helpful here.

[Ron36]

You should have multiple runs of 0 gauge to that through multiple batteries at .5 ohms,  I ran a American Bass 2200K amp at .6 ohms , had 250Amp ALT plus 6 Batteries , plus 3 runs of 0 gauge wire to the batteries in the rear and dual inputs to the Amp. Basic electrical is when resistance goes down amps go up , your gonna melt wire or start a fire . You should have 3-4 runs of 0  gauge.

[DrDave]

Update: I spoke with ds 18 techs and they said that clearly there's a problem with the amp. I'm waiting on a rma. Yes I am running at .5 on dual power inputs, the installer only had 1 300 amp fuse running directly from the main battery under the hood. That's it. ( Audio Creations of St. Petersburg) Let me also say that I just love bass and Im not an installer so I can only rely on what Im being told. He said that he wouldn't recommend running at .5. He said that amp was not the correct amp for that sub. The techs from ds18 also said that I needed fuses on each power wire running to the amp but my installer said it would be a waste of time and money. He said that the techs don't know what they are talking about and they don't understand real world applications of their products. His words not mine. I tend to go with the techs on this one. The tech said the hko3 is efficient at .25. 

[DrDave]

On 3/2/2022 at 6:38 PM, Dafaseles said:

I assume you're running it at .5 ohm?

With the dual power inputs, the manufacturer recommends 300 amps of fusing, so 2 150 amp fuse (one on each input).

To get 6500 watts at .5 on though, you'll need at least 650 amps of fusing. Maybe a little more, maybe a little less. But usually, if you multiply the fuse rating by 10, you can guesstimate an amplifiers power output. 

If you're going to run it at .5 ohm daily, up the fusing to 300-325 amp fuses on each positive run. Make sure you're using OFC cable, because CCA cable can burn pulling that much amperage. 

If the fuses are still popping, then there's a pretty good chance the amplifier board is shorting out somewhere. 

Just be careful. Pushing that kind of power through can be dangerous. It's not recommended, even though DS-18 lists the power at .5. Watch your wires, inspect them every so often. Feel your amplifier every now and again also. Make sure it's not getting too hot. That's how car fires happen. 

Another precaution you can take is to purchase those dual to single amp inputs. So you'll have 4 runs on 1/0 going into the amp, and 4 runs coming out. That will reduce the load of each cable, and improve the efficiency of the amplifier. 

 

[DrDave]

So I told the installer about the Willison DS18 hko2 2k amp running at 0.25 efficiently on the dyno and he was like " Yeah but on the dyno they have a constant regulated power supply so it wouldn't work in the real world"

[DrDave]

On 3/2/2022 at 6:54 PM, SnowDrifter said:

I'm rather curious how you have this wired

Amp has dual 0ga inputs. But you blowing a 550 amp fuse? or a pair of 550a fuses?

What conditions does it blow under, and *which* fuse in your system is going? Wiring diagram would be helpful here.

Im not as adept as you guys but here goes. The sub is wired in parallel, the fuse is coming directly from the main battery under the hood. It blows when I crank it up not even half way. It will play at .5 all day unless I turn it up. At 6500 watts rms shit already beating at super low volumes, so whe I crank it, the earth shakes and I blow a fuse! I have a pioneer dmh 7600 headunit and 7 channel orion eq. 

[Dafaseles]

48 minutes ago, DrDave said:

So I told the installer about the Willison DS18 hko2 2k amp running at 0.25 efficiently on the dyno and he was like " Yeah but on the dyno they have a constant regulated power supply so it wouldn't work in the real world"

Yeah, he's actually right about that, though, at least in my opinion, I don't agree with his installation method. 

The amp dyno is a really good measuring tool for what the amplifier can do, and to keep the manufacturers honest. On the other had, the conditions are pretty damn sweet for the amplifier when testing. That's not to say the amplifier won't do what it does on the dyno. But .25 daily? I find that hard to believe. I'd have to see it to believe it. 

Here's a very interesting and informative video about the subject. It's a little long, but packed with good info

 

[SnowDrifter]

2 hours ago, DrDave said:

Im not as adept as you guys but here goes. The sub is wired in parallel, the fuse is coming directly from the main battery under the hood. It blows when I crank it up not even half way. It will play at .5 all day unless I turn it up. At 6500 watts rms shit already beating at super low volumes, so whe I crank it, the earth shakes and I blow a fuse! I have a pioneer dmh 7600 headunit and 7 channel orion eq. 

You have a single wire going from under the hood, to the amp?

Just take a bunch of pics and post 'em