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So probably best route isntongo audio control LC2i PRO or kicker KeyLoc

Car: 2012 Acura TL Elite

Head Unit: JL Audio Fix86

Front Stage : Alpine SPX-17PRO

Rear Stage : Alpine SPR-60C

Component Amp : JL Audio HD 600/4

Sub : 1 12" JL Audio W7

Sub Amp : JL Audio HD 1200

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Have you checked to see if you have a full bandwidth signal going to the factory amplifier yet? You may not need anything more than a line driver. Why add more processing to the signal if you don't have to? You might be lucky and have a clean signal coming straight from the factory deck. If that's the case it's as straightforward as splicing a line driver (if it's a weak signal you may not even need one) and sending a clean signal to your amp.

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Don't have a way to test it unless I take to car audio shop

Car: 2012 Acura TL Elite

Head Unit: JL Audio Fix86

Front Stage : Alpine SPX-17PRO

Rear Stage : Alpine SPR-60C

Component Amp : JL Audio HD 600/4

Sub : 1 12" JL Audio W7

Sub Amp : JL Audio HD 1200

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But even if I don't need it the LC2i PRO and the kicker KeyLoc will do the job?

Car: 2012 Acura TL Elite

Head Unit: JL Audio Fix86

Front Stage : Alpine SPX-17PRO

Rear Stage : Alpine SPR-60C

Component Amp : JL Audio HD 600/4

Sub : 1 12" JL Audio W7

Sub Amp : JL Audio HD 1200

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On 3/10/2022 at 10:23 AM, Daddy_ said:

But even if I don't need it the LC2i PRO and the kicker KeyLoc will do the job?

 

Are you planning to connect the LOC from the stock sub terminals? If so, the keyloc will be fine.

 

The other thing to ask yourself is if a single 8" in a sealed box in the trunk is going to be a worthy improvement, Seem too light to me tbh.

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Hondas/Acuras with premium sound systems have unprocessed line level signals for the door speaker channels coming out of the h/u. The issue with tapping those is that they are balanced outputs and not every loc will work without producing noise. For a simple sub add on, tapping speaker leads and using a bass restoring loc is preferable to the likely issues with noise that come with using the h/u outputs.

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