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Anyone have a problem with no voltage drop when you should


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Title is odd haha but I recently installed taramp smart 5k bass and maybe drop 0.2 volt ( 14.8 charging drops to roughly 14.6 when bass hits watching smd voltmeter)

12in dc audio lvl 5

1- 240amp alt

2- xs power group 34

1- deep cycle group 31

Think all in all about 240 ah 

All 1/0 skyhigh audio cable, amp has 2/0.

Rca voltage 4.02v with ds18 bass knob.

I however only set the gain on it so far with smd amm-1.

I guess I feel like it should drop more considering my old amp only output about 1,200 watts checking with amm-1.

 

When I get time and away from my apartment I'm going to test it more with the amm-1 and see what the dyno numbers are.

 

Thoughts?

The fuses shouldn't be a problem right till they blow? 

Running 2-400 amp fuses at amp and 3-250 amp fuses for the batteries ( all I had left, higher amp ones on the way)

 

 

 

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What i figured. Your pulling like 60 amps total. You could actually ditch all but your starting battery and still be fine. Or, wire lower, or get a much larger board, and make magic happen. 

 

Again, where are you wired at nominally?  1ohm?

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Wired at .5 ohm.

I did however found probably most of my problem. Battery been disconnected for over 2 weeks so I thought everything on my pioneer head unit was reset, found out my speaker level for sub was +10 db which gave me about 4.02v rca input to amp at 30 volume. I'm assuming that was a little high since most taramps users recommend 1.8-2v for all amps.

Reset it to zero, rca voltage input now at about 1.87v. I set gains again, this time got a little more then 1/4 out of it.

That helped a lot, dyno it with amm-1 and getting about 2600 watts at 2 ohms but voltage dropping down to 13.4-13.5 and that's just playing one of dj russticals songs ( 22-43hz song).

 I'll look into switching to probably yinlong lto down the road but for now I'll take her easy so I don't potentially burn this amp up

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just so you know that amp puts out a legit 6k at 2 ohms on the dyno on youtube.  And do not wire that amp to .5 its designed for 1 ohm only minimum.  You might be short changing the power you can get from that amp wiring to .5 ohms because they have current limiters that kick in below 1 ohm.

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5 hours ago, stingray72 said:

just so you know that amp puts out a legit 6k at 2 ohms on the dyno on youtube.  And do not wire that amp to .5 its designed for 1 ohm only minimum.  You might be short changing the power you can get from that amp wiring to .5 ohms because they have current limiters that kick in below 1 ohm.

Just so you know, music is dynamic. Wired at .5 nominal, the load can only increase from there. Unless he is burping for competition, and plays one or two frequencies, then the dynamic change in music, will have the board seeing higher, much higher. I bet hes hovering around 2ohm on music. (that is the reason people wire low, even for daily installs)

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5 hours ago, stingray72 said:

just so you know that amp puts out a legit 6k at 2 ohms on the dyno on youtube.  And do not wire that amp to .5 its designed for 1 ohm only minimum.  You might be short changing the power you can get from that amp wiring to .5 ohms because they have current limiters that kick in below 1 ohm.

 

Isnt this you?

 

I went with the brazillian amp the taramps  smart bass 3 which is stable to .5 ohms and can rise to 4 ohms and still produce 1700 watts but i did have a desire to go korean because some of those can be wired .5 ohms daily and produce more power over all even rising to 4 ohms but they are more expensive at dollars per watt and i wasnt willing to go that far and settled on the above amp at 293 bucks shipped new in box but i understand why you want to make the switch.

 

Seems your doing the same thing, eh????

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35 minutes ago, Kyblack76 said:

 

Isnt this you?

 

I went with the brazillian amp the taramps  smart bass 3 which is stable to .5 ohms and can rise to 4 ohms and still produce 1700 watts but i did have a desire to go korean because some of those can be wired .5 ohms daily and produce more power over all even rising to 4 ohms but they are more expensive at dollars per watt and i wasnt willing to go that far and settled on the above amp at 293 bucks shipped new in box but i understand why you want to make the switch.

 

Seems your doing the same thing, eh????

Look closer at what amp i named.  Its the taramps smart 3 bass not the other version.  It is rated for .5 ohms from the factory.

 

Technical information
Operation class Class D
Number of Channels 01
Maximum power @ 14.4 VDC - 0.5 Ohm: 3000 Watts RMS
@ 14.4 VDC - 1 Ohm: 3000 Watts RMS
@ 14.4 VDC - 2 Ohms: 3000 Watts RMS
@ 14.4 VDC - 4 Ohms: 1700 Watts RMS
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