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Can anyone help me out I finally installed my system in my truck and I need suggestions for batteries. I’m running a audio apex cab 22 on 2 custom built 15s from the lord of bass I have a mechman 250 amp alt. And a xs power d3400 under the hood. I’m wanting to upgraded to around 4500-5000 watts so should I just get another d3400 or just do a battery delete and just run a 6 pack of the yinglong power cells I’m still learning about power cells,agms,and lithium which would be better. My system is in a 06 Silverado crew cab and I metered it the other day and it’s doing a 145.7 at 35hz with 1000w at the windshield with no clipping but my amp gets so hot after just a few mins of playing and the subs are at 1.2ohms after box rise. Can some please help

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Being an 06 Silverado (unless it's a 2500 or above), you have a voltage controlled regulator that can jump the alternator voltage around quite a bit (from down to the low 13's to low 15's). If your alternator is using the 2 pin stock setup, and you don't want to deal with changing or bypassing it, i don't recommend lithium. Lithium you want to treat with care. Specific lithium setups and chemistries require different voltages. So, if you run Lithium, an externally regulated alternator is highly suggested. 

As far as AGM's go, with a 250 amp alt, I would go at least 3 80ah AGM's. Even then, I can't be certain. I do know on 4000 watts (before rise), I would have voltage drop with a 370 amp alt and 2 80 ah AGM's (stinger batteries).

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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You are at 1.2 reactive? Those are competition type numbers.

Jesus, you wired at .25 .33? Also, burps, should pull current, daily, music, ... it should be OK, again, where are you wired at nominally?

Does the amp shut down from thermal.??? Maybe hot to you, is meh to other. But, answer above question and report back. 

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Also, i don't know that audio apex cab 22 from a hole in the wall, but google search  says 2200 at one ohm. So,.. i guess my question is, if you (you actually had it on a term lab) know you're at one ohm, reactive, then why the mention of score at 1k,.. at whatever frequency) 

Also, more voltage, wont cool your amplifier. Its true higher vdc rated amplifiers run a tick easier because higher voltage means less amperage, but i highly doubt thats the fix to your ills. Cheers. 

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Def answer Klyblack76's questions first... 

 

But to answer one of your later questions, No a single 250 Amp Alternator is not going to get you to 3,500 Watts.  You first have to remember that the Alternator is powering more than just your speaker system, it has to power the Motor and everything else in the truck.  You have to figure between 60 - 90 Amps is going to the Truck.  Then you have to figure in the Efficiency of the Amplifier.  Even Class D amps lose between 15% to 30% from the input wattage to the output.  And at nearly 1ohm your almost certainly in the 25% - 30% range. 

 

If your looking to either get the maximum of what your amplifier is capable, or upgrading to a larger amp(s) then I would suggest you need to Begin by upgrading to either a higher output alternator or adding a second alternator. 

 

As for your original question on battery choice I can't help you.  I just noticed the numbers weren't adding up on your alternator specs and your intended power output. 

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On 5/5/2022 at 10:20 AM, Kyblack76 said:

You are at 1.2 reactive? Those are competition type numbers.

Jesus, you wired at .25 .33? Also, burps, should pull current, daily, music, ... it should be OK, again, where are you wired at nominally?

Does the amp shut down from thermal.??? Maybe hot to you, is meh to other. But, answer above question and report back. 

Yeah with box rise I’m at 1.2 ohms but before box rise on my multimeter it reads anywhere for 0.7-0.9. It’s my daily so I just play normal music or some rebassed from time to time. My amp hasn’t shut off yet bc soon as I feel that it’s getting to hot to the touch I turn the bass knob back down.

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On 5/6/2022 at 1:18 AM, TheBKG said:

Def answer Klyblack76's questions first... 

 

But to answer one of your later questions, No a single 250 Amp Alternator is not going to get you to 3,500 Watts.  You first have to remember that the Alternator is powering more than just your speaker system, it has to power the Motor and everything else in the truck.  You have to figure between 60 - 90 Amps is going to the Truck.  Then you have to figure in the Efficiency of the Amplifier.  Even Class D amps lose between 15% to 30% from the input wattage to the output.  And at nearly 1ohm your almost certainly in the 25% - 30% range. 

 

If your looking to either get the maximum of what your amplifier is capable, or upgrading to a larger amp(s) then I would suggest you need to Begin by upgrading to either a higher output alternator or adding a second alternator. 

 

As for your original question on battery choice I can't help you.  I just noticed the numbers weren't adding up on your alternator specs and your intended power output. 

For the time being would it help me out if I ran dual alternators and ran my stock alt for running my truck and accessories and my high output alt. For my subs and mids and highs would I see a better result jw 

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It's my opinion that you would, yes.  I also think you'll have smoother operation and longer life potential of the Alternator and the rest of your electrical system. 

 

But, that's a theoretical opinion from someone whose never run multiple alternators myself.  I just understand how electrical systems work and how they break down.  I also understand the math.  If your using more energy than your vehicle can produce then you'll always be running on the edge of over drawing the added battery reserve.  Adding a second Alt makes for a safer solution, in my opinion. 😃

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