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Lots of Bass Without Sacrificing Crew Cab Space


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Hey ya'll, I'm looking for some advice. RN I have four 8" kicker Solo-Baric L7S (https://www.kicker.com/solo-baric-l7s-8-4-ohm-subwoofer) under the back seat of my truck, powered by a Soundigital 3300.1D Power (https://soundigitalusa.com/products/3300-1d-power/)  The box has a total volume of 2.5 cu.ft. (https://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Custom-Subwoofer-Boxes/Silverado-And-Sierra-Crew-Cab-Custom-Subwoofer-Enclosures-by-Subthump/20142018-Crew-Cab/20142018-GM-Crew-Cab-Dual-8-Ported-Front-Fire-Box-Lift-Kit-Req39d-New-clone.html?osCsid=d501294e1c960bk0tsdc01fct4) and I have a 2.5" lift on my back seat for more room. 

 

My issue is that over the last two years I've had two of the subs fail. Both times one of the voice coils stops working while the other is ok when tested independently. I'm thinking of changing them out but wanted opinions from people who have more experience than me.

 

I'm looking to squeeze as much bass out of the space under by back seat as possible but I want it to be reliable. I don't feel like I'm overdriving the subs or anything but want to know what y'all think. I'm open to different boxes and even considering going ported if I can, also willing to go to different sized subs if they'll perform better.

 

 I'm looking at some options myself and have a couple ideas in mind but want to know what y'all think. I don't mind spending money if it means awesome performance with great reliability. Let me know that ya'll think will work good for me.

 

Thanks in advance, any help is greatly appreciated. 

 

 

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Well, before you go a completely different route....

How did you go about setting the gains on your amplifier? Those sound digital amps will do their rated power easy, and with those subs only being about 450 watt RMS, if you're sending too much of a clipped signal to those subs, they won't last long. 

How do you have your crossovers set on your amp? 

Do you have any electrical upgrades on the truck? 

Do you have an aftermarket head unit? Or are you using a line out converter? 

What are you using as a source for your music? A phone or something else? 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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3 hours ago, cprime said:

Hey ya'll, I'm looking for some advice. RN I have four 8" kicker Solo-Baric L7S (https://www.kicker.com/solo-baric-l7s-8-4-ohm-subwoofer) under the back seat of my truck, powered by a Soundigital 3300.1D Power (https://soundigitalusa.com/products/3300-1d-power/)  The box has a total volume of 2.5 cu.ft. (https://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Custom-Subwoofer-Boxes/Silverado-And-Sierra-Crew-Cab-Custom-Subwoofer-Enclosures-by-Subthump/20142018-Crew-Cab/20142018-GM-Crew-Cab-Dual-8-Ported-Front-Fire-Box-Lift-Kit-Req39d-New-clone.html?osCsid=d501294e1c960bk0tsdc01fct4) and I have a 2.5" lift on my back seat for more room. 

 

My issue is that over the last two years I've had two of the subs fail. Both times one of the voice coils stops working while the other is ok when tested independently. I'm thinking of changing them out but wanted opinions from people who have more experience than me.

 

I'm looking to squeeze as much bass out of the space under by back seat as possible but I want it to be reliable. I don't feel like I'm overdriving the subs or anything but want to know what y'all think. I'm open to different boxes and even considering going ported if I can, also willing to go to different sized subs if they'll perform better.

 

 I'm looking at some options myself and have a couple ideas in mind but want to know what y'all think. I don't mind spending money if it means awesome performance with great reliability. Let me know that ya'll think will work good for me.

 

Thanks in advance, any help is greatly appreciated. 

 

 

 

Looking at that box size and internal volume that you have it seems like two much higher power 10' subs ported might be doable, specially if you can lift further.

 

My first step would be determining what box size you can do after installing the lift and decide your next step based on that information.

 

 

 

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On 6/16/2022 at 5:34 PM, Dafaseles said:

Well, before you go a completely different route....

How did you go about setting the gains on your amplifier? Those sound digital amps will do their rated power easy, and with those subs only being about 450 watt RMS, if you're sending too much of a clipped signal to those subs, they won't last long. 

How do you have your crossovers set on your amp? 

Do you have any electrical upgrades on the truck? 

Do you have an aftermarket head unit? Or are you using a line out converter? 

What are you using as a source for your music? A phone or something else? 

I set the gain with a test tone and measuring the voltage, the remote knob also has a "clip" light but from my testing the light would come on as soon as I went over 60 volts at 2 ohm which is 1800 watts (the amps rated RMS at 2 ohm) so i think its just watching that not actually looking form a clipping signal. I checked the signal quality with an oscilloscope into and out of the amp and it looked good. 

 

The sub I just took out had a broken tinsel lead, the other before that was the thin wire coming off the coil to the lead. I was overpowering the subs in my old set up and I was tearing the surround. 

 

Crossovers are set to what the manual said the subs range is, can't remember off the top of my head. 

 

I upgraded the power and ground wires, the alternator seems to be holding up for now. 

 

I'm using a line out converter and the factory head unit because it controls other stuff for my truck. 

 

Music is coming from my phone, I use Tidal for higher bit rates than Spotify or others, and I plug my phone in instead of using as. 

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Just want to give my post a bump. I have four good subs in my truck for now and two failed ones sitting on my desk. Hoping for some input for what y'all think is my best option before I buy rebuild parts or start ordering a new box and subs.

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I feel like without totally removing your seat, doing a blow through, or doing a crazy center console build, your at your max with the 4 square subs. One thing about those L7's are, for whatever size, they are loud. Mostly because of the extra cone area you get from being square instead of round. With that amp wired at 2 ohm, I don't think your over driving your subs. The enclosure might be a tad small, making it a little harder for your voice coils to cool properly. Or, maybe you just got a hold of 2 duds, though with kicker, that's hard to believe you got 2. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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I did 3 -10’s under seat build , shit slammed, I don’t think your electrical is good enough. 3,300 watts on stock ALT plus whatever is running your mids . I don’t see anything about batteries not battery. I ran about 4500watts with mids and had 250amp ALT and 6 batteries to hold voltage.

0E3972B8-E983-4823-A69A-3B10F877EFDB.png

2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s                                                                                                                                          Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s                                                                                                                       Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4                                                 LC2 for audio control  , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery 

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3 hours ago, Ron36 said:

I did 3 -10’s under seat build , shit slammed, I don’t think your electrical is good enough. 3,300 watts on stock ALT plus whatever is running your mids . I don’t see anything about batteries not battery. I ran about 4500watts with mids and had 250amp ALT and 6 batteries to hold voltage.

0E3972B8-E983-4823-A69A-3B10F877EFDB.png

Damn! I don't think I've ever seen 3 10's under a back seat. Nice! 

Ported? Sealed? 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Had to go sealed but did build one for 2 -10’s ported. 

757B3DD8-E68A-47C7-850E-E478652576C6.png

59B2B33A-78E2-4FC9-ADF6-D8391402FCF7.png

2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s                                                                                                                                          Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s                                                                                                                       Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4                                                 LC2 for audio control  , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery 

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On 6/24/2022 at 11:02 PM, Dafaseles said:

I feel like without totally removing your seat, doing a blow through, or doing a crazy center console build, your at your max with the 4 square subs. One thing about those L7's are, for whatever size, they are loud. Mostly because of the extra cone area you get from being square instead of round. With that amp wired at 2 ohm, I don't think your over driving your subs. The enclosure might be a tad small, making it a little harder for your voice coils to cool properly. Or, maybe you just got a hold of 2 duds, though with kicker, that's hard to believe you got 2. 

I've had three fail as of now, all have been broken tinsel leads or something with the coil. The first one that I ended up rebuilding didn't have any continuity though one of the coils and I didn't find anything obvious when I ripped it apart. The second has a broken tinsel lead at the base of the cone and I haven't looked at the third yet.

 

I'm happy with the bass but not with the reliability. If I'm better off switching for better reliability I'd want to keep the same performance or get better if I'm spending the money but my main goal is to have my system slap hard and not worry about breaking anything. 

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