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Gain match or run at 2 ohms. Bought 2 4 ohm subs, decided i wanted 4 instead.


rgriffin83

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thats what im saying, they are a damn good bit underrated. Im paying over 5k for a setup, why have your subs underpowered by 400 wrms a piece?

1 15" FI BTL N2

AQ2200d

Big 3

Pioneer head unit

kinetik 1200 (under the hood)

kinetik 2400 (dedicated to the sub)

Mids and highs coming soon!

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theyre rated at 800, they will take a good bit more. Giving a sd x8v3 800 watts is way underpowering them even though thats the rms rating.

1 15" FI BTL N2

AQ2200d

Big 3

Pioneer head unit

kinetik 1200 (under the hood)

kinetik 2400 (dedicated to the sub)

Mids and highs coming soon!

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Just remember, that, is a resistive load test on the amp dyno. You wired nominal, AT 2ohms, will put you miles higher. To see that 2ohm power, you would want to wire (nominally) at like .5, (POINT 5) and then underload/reactive, see around 2ohm. Starting at 2, youll see power around 4, or 5, or 10 (music is dynamic, eh?) ohm. Wire it up, and wang on it, ..... adjust accordingly from there, and best of luck, i think it should do you fine, imho. Cheers, and happy pounding. 

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On 8/17/2022 at 11:14 AM, rgriffin83 said:

Thanks, Ill have a 390 alt amp (mechman) and a sufficient battery by the time I install. 1200wrms not too much to put on an x8v3 i hope though.

My recommendation would be to get the second amp. At 390 amps, that should be more than enough current to run two 2250’s. They are Class D so assuming a *modest* efficiency of 80%, the maximum current draw at 14.4 volts pushing 2300 watts comes in at 199.6 amps. So regardless of whether you get a large single amp or a second 2250, your electrical system is fine.

As for the x8v3’s, they are rated at 800 watts rms continuous. Could they handle 1150 watts for brief periods? Very likely. Also what is your goal here? Raw power and SPL means you will have two subs per amp in parallel to present a load for each amp at two ohms (since each sub will have their two-ohm voicecoils wired in series for four ohms). It will not matter whether you do series/parallel or parallel/series because you end up with two ohms either way.

Yes, you *could* get a monster monoblock amp to drive all four down to 1 ohm but do you really need to spend all that extra money?

 

As for gain matching, yes get the CC-1 (I just ordered one)! I used to use an oscilloscope (which I still own) but that is slower and less accurate. Basically you are visually scanning the screen for when that 40 Hz sine wave (for subs) starts to square off at max/min amplitude. There are two ways to blow a speaker — amplifier distortion which results in pumping DC into the voicecoils (frying them) [too little amplifier power] and simply overpowering the speaker with excessive power. I have never blown a speaker the second way but have destroyed more than a few speakers the first way with pushing an underpowered amp too hard. The other issue is that you likely will get much more than 2300 watts from the 2250’s. You will need to decide how much power your subs get maximum and then set your gains to never exceed that. 

Also, If you do series/series (if you want sound quality vs. SPL) then you will have 8 ohms per amplifier which means you lose 70% of your maximum SPL in a trade off for virtually no distortion at all. THD mostly shows up well above 100 Hz so you are not really gaining anything in terms of sound quality if you go that way but personally I would not.

Unless you are building a competition system for SPL, my recommendation is to configure the subs at double whatever the minimum impedance the amplifier can handle. If the amp is 1-ohm stable, then give it no less than a 2-ohm load. It will keep the amp from overheating and will extend the life of the amplifier. Send us some pics when you get done!

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I don’t agree with some of the stuff the guy above me said… but I’d still would buy a full bridge amp to save space since it’s in a truck.  Like I said the sfb5000 rated At 3200 rms at 2ohms like you will be running  probably does more  and has a small footprint 

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