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Cost wise on power wire?


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1 hour ago, audiofanaticz said:

Knukonceptz actually does have some UL listed wire, and can be verified on the UL site. Sadly it's just for in wall use speaker wire but it's more than most companies are doing.

As for the China made wire argument, the vast majority of wire coming from there is legit and copper, with some brands being better than others. So as long as you stay with a solid brand name you should be fine and get quality wire without other fillers.

There was a bunch of wire brands tested independently by a fellow bass head a few years ago that had access to one of those $20,000 XRF scanners that can tell you everything that is in the wire.
From what I recall the Sundown XS Power Knu Kicker SHCA Kicker etc brands where all around the top of the list and pretty much on par with what wire should be. A couple US made welding cable was tested too. One company tested with a lot of silicon and the people selling this wire pretty much blackmailed the guy testing the wire, harassed his employment trying to get him fired, tried to get him kicked out of college, etc until he finally pulled down his information. Oddly enough if you look at the quality brands of welding cable they say silicone free but apparently the stuff they are selling is not. 
 

what welding cable brand that had silicone in it ???  just for informing others , i don't use welding cable .

Edited by 02Blazer
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On 1/14/2023 at 5:45 AM, audiofanaticz said:

It's a particular user thats banned from the forums a long time ago, not worth the energy mentioning his brand and giving him any promotion of any sorts, og forum members from a few years ago will remember said tests and person.

👍

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  • 11 months later...
On 1/7/2023 at 5:55 PM, 02Blazer said:

make sure you use glue lined heat shrink , welding cable is not tinned . to each is own , i would never buy welding cable because it's not as flexible and also , what i just mentioned , it's not tinned . i have thousands invested in subs , mids , tweeters , amps , head unit , etc..   a shit ton of other accessories like battery terminals , lugs, lithium banks , enclosure etc.. no way i'm gonna try to cheap out and save a few bucks on electrical !!  don't take it wrong , use what you like and can afford , i do , but use the right tool for the job . 👍

there is tinned welding cable also. ive never needed it , i use temco 3/0 alot, seems to be quite a bit more flexible than most other brands of welding wire too. i use hydraulic crimp tool and lined heat shrink like u suggested and have had alot of the same cable from quite a few years ago and a few builds ago still in great condition and i live where winter lasts more than half the year most years and they use a TON of salt and sand on the roads. have yet to have a lug corrode on me. i use tinned lugs sometimes and other times straight copper, just depends on the deal i can get when i buy a hundred or so. i havent had to do crazy bends with it either tho so maybe a bak in the back with a hug buss bar or something may become a problem. also i run my power wire along my frame under my truck so its ALWAYS in the elements, so i perfer welding cable over car audio as the jacket is FAR superior. Im a life long welder/fabricator and have seen first hand what welding cable can take for abuse, ive seen it get wrapped up in the tracks of a dozer and survive with minimal damage, which is why i chose it to run along my frame. i will have to admit, car audio wire will have finer strands inside which should equate to better amperage transfer and less heat buut thats such a small factor in most cases.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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On 1/7/2023 at 5:55 PM, 02Blazer said:

 

Edited by ehall8702
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2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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