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need help with a wall build


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so this is what im planning on going with for 4x audio legion 12's . basically 12 cft after subs and port displacement need to figure out bracing displacement to but the box is overly large as it is so it wont be an issue  , the plan is to run the port in the center and move the subs out twards the corners to make room for the port , im wondering if a single 12 inch areo port is going to be enough for this , this is going in a pretty small car and im going to seal it off from b pillars back , thoughts , suggestions ? was planning on a dbl 1 inch thick front baffle should i go for a 3rd ?

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Edited by mel80
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Port area depends on the driver itself, box size, power and tuning frequency. No params are available for the drivers SO just guessing, you were doing 26 square inches per driver last time, with the 12" port it's like 28 square inches so you know maybe, flares help a lot, what's too large is the box size, more than 2.5 net per driver, on a lot of power those drivers are going to bottom out below tuning very likely. Also I would do double layer in the baffle and probably the rear wall and a bunch of cross braces between them.

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i have it oversized on purpose easier to take away space then add it , my thoughts were i could always add a 5th sub down the line if i needed to or just take up volume inside the box for the time being  , im kinda worried about the port as even with the 3 on a 10 inch port port seemes undersized though im not getting any port noise . i tried to fit 2x 10 inch ports but with as it tunned as low as i want the ports are just to damn long to be front facing . putting the ports out the side doesnt seem like it would work well for this build . last option is a slot port along the top or bottom of the box . but i want this thing tunned low but low isnt loud when it comes to going to comp and a slot port cant be changed on the fly 

 

i actually have the tsps for these drivers ill have to post them when i get home from work 

Edited by mel80
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Yes, you shouldn't get any port noise as you are running the same port area per driver as before, Bottoming out could be more of a real possibility if you were to up power with new amps and not bring down internal volume, (entry level subs generally are not expected to have overly stiff suspensions). As far as ports go the longer port is less efficient than the short one, for a given port area and length two ports are less efficient than a single one, the port with flares is way more efficient than the one without them likely up to 3dB. If you can't find proper port area round ports octo is a possibility, you just build many of them to rapidly swap them. BTW wall and deadening change your resonant frequency, likely will higher.

 

Edited by Joe X
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im hoping to get the box down to 10.5 cft after bracing and anything i may need to do to take up some volume.  puts me at 2.6cft per driver right were i want it . im goign to take some careful measurements in the car tommorow  if i can fit it im going to design the enclosure for 6 drivers. the 3 im running are in 6cft net and could deff use a bit more box volume but they do get down and they are loud problem is i cant get any more box volume with a trunk build in this car 

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You can easily do 6 subs, port across the center, > 160 square inches 3 subs above 3 below, still at 2.25 net and 26 square inches of port per driver, easier to power, two subs or 3 per amp. Not that I don't get what you are getting at giving 2.7 is just that some DD audio 612s are some of the ones born to work like that.

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6 will bump me into a class i dont want to be in due to cone area rules , i did figure out how to do a slot port though and still be able to drop the tunning on the fly , i.e build the high tune port into the box and then make an insert i can drop into the port to extend it for the low tunning i want for daily use. 2.5-2.7cft is the sweet spot for theese to get them to be louder down low over what i have now not that they arent loud down low now but the increase in box volume will deff pick up the low end a good bit. i got plenty of time though so im not rushing this , next week ill prolly go pick up some wood and start on a front baffle to just start playing with layout and go from there 

 

i am having troublke deciding were i want the port though i.e passenger side /ds / center or do i wanna put it at the top/bottom 

Edited by mel80
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On 6/1/2023 at 11:49 AM, mel80 said:

6 will bump me into a class i dont want to be in due to cone area rules , i did figure out how to do a slot port though and still be able to drop the tunning on the fly , i.e build the high tune port into the box and then make an insert i can drop into the port to extend it for the low tunning i want for daily use. 2.5-2.7cft is the sweet spot for theese to get them to be louder down low over what i have now not that they arent loud down low now but the increase in box volume will deff pick up the low end a good bit. i got plenty of time though so im not rushing this , next week ill prolly go pick up some wood and start on a front baffle to just start playing with layout and go from there 

 

i am having troublke deciding were i want the port though i.e passenger side /ds / center or do i wanna put it at the top/bottom 

A couple of things:

 

1) to confirm your suspicions on how the subs will react use modeling software to get insight on, A ) if Xmax is passed either below or above tuning on intended power and box specs B ) what's the proper port area. WinISD will suffice for that. Once you confirm your box specs then.......

 

2) Get yourself a SPL meter before starting your tests, there are many decently priced like the SSA, those are like $300 or so for the basic models I believe.

 

Wish I had more time these days like you to play with car audio gear. have fun.

 

 

Edited by Joe X
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