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i ment ur alt guy....not you

phewww. cool!! Just fyi for all out there, excessive amperage did not tell me to run the 4 gauge, an installer did. excessive did me well. i even contacted them about this tonight. Should hear back from them in the am.

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personnally i'm not knocking you potna. i'm sure everyone who has minimum knowledge with car audio will agree with what i'm about to type ................... use 4ga minimum but 1/0 would work better on your HO install. i don't know why the other guy and HO would say to use nothing more than 4ga and i'm sure they might have made a mistake in saying so ................ just go 1/0 if you can potna.

understood man. I get the whole math and calculations behind it. Thank you for all the advice!!

Loud as f*ck, and sounds good doing it.

Team built from here on out!!!!

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I said screw it and just contacted ho about this. I am trying to find out if they know something I don't. I wanted to run 1/0 in the first place. I wanna see what they will tell me about this. Will keep posted, cause 4 gauge doesn't make sense unless I am running a 150 amp alt. Dont get me wrong anyone. I do believe I need 1/0. I just have to find out, personally, what ho has to say regarding this.

Loud as f*ck, and sounds good doing it.

Team built from here on out!!!!

BIG things to come.........

Missing link is the shite!!!

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Just a little thing to think about. If you run 1/0 to your amps from your battery, but 4 gauge from the alt to the battery. You need to ask your self if my amp comes with 1/0 gauge terminals, and my whole car is powered by the alternator why are you gonna put a smaller wire before the bigger wire. 4 gauge may give you resistance but with the 1/0 to your amps and 4g from your main source of power it will heat up under the heavy load.

For the home thing, if you want, go and run a 14 gauge wire to your AC but splice it into the plug from the unit let me know how that works. (Common electrical )

I dont think GM accounted for 20,000 watt sound systems while designing their cars either, or quad alts. (Steve) :D

Ohio said I could get by with 4gauge cause thats about as much current as the alt will give anyway, but 1/0 won't hurt.

They want you to use 4g because it acts as a current limiter in a way. Better for them.

MLA

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Back in the day Ive heard of many people running smaller wire such as 4 gauge. But for a reason.

The only reason was for the resistance, to keep the alternator charging higher then normal at all times.

With the newer technology and components that are used, it is not needed, so run 0 gauge.

Oh and I learned this from someone who was sponsered by ohio generators for years. He also said with the alt working harder that the failed quicker too.

The amperage draw per gauge wire is praticly useless in this argument.

Because the amperage draw for that wire is by so many feet, so if it says 300 amps for 0 gauge wiring, that is proboly for 17-20 feet of wire.

If you have a 1 foot piece of 0 gauge, next to a 10 foot piece of 0 gauge, that 1 foot piece is going to allow so much more current to flow through because there is less resistance.

It will give you a decent idea of what the wire will allow before malfunctioning, but thats it.

As for your Autozone or advance autoparts load test, the reason it failed is because well 1 they are noobs...

But that testing machine they have is not able to put a big enough load on your electrical system.

Without the big load your alternator is not going to work no where near its max amperage output.

I think the load they put on your electrical system is about 80 amps, maybe lower, or in other words about a 900watt car amp.

Didnt you see the video of steve when they went to autozone for a alt test, and the guys where clueless and didnt even notice the 4 big bitching blinging alts?

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=21168

Oh and also, this is in iraggis post on another forum.

http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/22/3982.html

dont know if this has all been covered, but I didnt want to read all pages of non sense :)

 

 

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Lol, that's simply not true. The battery terminal isn't fit to support 1/0 wire. Its set to fit no more than 4 gauge. Why do you think that is? Nevermind, it's pointless and so is this discussion. Your mind is made up regardless of how wrong you are, and nothing I say will change that.

P.S. I'll leave you with this, ask any certified electrician what 1/0 wire is used for. Then ask him about using it in a car for a stereo system to connect the battery and alternator for power. Get back to me with the answer.

You really have no idea of the scale of some of these systems do you?

At full whack (SPL burp) my system draws over 1000A. This current has to go the entire length of my car, because SPL rules state that the battery must be in the stock location for my class. My battery terminals are aluminium bars.

What do you think would happen if I tried to pull 1000A through a 5m long run of 4ga?

There's no point talking to an electrician. They deal with high voltage AC. The kind of numbers we are talking about in car audio are insane to them - go check your main circuit breaker on your house, it's probably only 50A or so.

By the way, you don't see a lot of 1/0 even in residential installations. Go find your ground peg, it's probably only 8ga.

EDIT: For the original poster, you can't test the current output of an alt when you have multiple grounds anyway. It only works if you test the single path back to the battery.

The other way to do it is disconnect the factory charge cable and then put a DC clamp meter on your 'big 3' charge cable. Then do a burp and see what you can pull :D

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You really have no idea of the scale of some of these systems do you?

At full whack (SPL burp) my system draws over 1000A. This current has to go the entire length of my car, because SPL rules state that the battery must be in the stock location for my class. My battery terminals are aluminium bars.

What do you think would happen if I tried to pull 1000A through a 5m long run of 4ga?

There's no point talking to an electrician. They deal with high voltage AC. The kind of numbers we are talking about in car audio are insane to them - go check your main circuit breaker on your house, it's probably only 50A or so.

By the way, you don't see a lot of 1/0 even in residential installations. Go find your ground peg, it's probably only 8ga.

EDIT: For the original poster, you can't test the current output of an alt when you have multiple grounds anyway. It only works if you test the single path back to the battery.

The other way to do it is disconnect the factory charge cable and then put a DC clamp meter on your 'big 3' charge cable. Then do a burp and see what you can pull :D

^^ So true boon!

My house has a 60 amp service I believe, most residential houses are way under a 80 amp service and that AC not DC current which is a huge difference. You can ask a certified electrition about car audio, but most likely wont have a damn clue, maybe thats why this guy is so full of himself.

PS: I have rewired many things in my house, as well as running 220 out in my garage, and Ive never seen a 0gauge wire in a house!

That just makes me LOL

 

 

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So because YOU can't find a bigger battery terminal that means anything over 4G is a waste?

bill you just dont know what the hell your talkin about :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: i guess he hasnt seen your builds. also isnt the 1/0 wire for houses different from car wires?

REST IN PARADISE BIG RICH (Sqmonte) never forgotten

Why do you guys ALWAYS dispute on NUMBERS?????

It's such a played out argument, so fucking annoying....

It's 12 fuckin 15's.... It's louder than you... Shut the fuck up...

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:)

I'm so jealous, it makes me want to club baby seals. That shit gets down HARD!

dont buy from knowledge he will scam you.

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bill you just dont know what the hell your talkin about :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Bill is a noob :P

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You really have no idea of the scale of some of these systems do you?

At full whack (SPL burp) my system draws over 1000A. This current has to go the entire length of my car, because SPL rules state that the battery must be in the stock location for my class. My battery terminals are aluminium bars.

What do you think would happen if I tried to pull 1000A through a 5m long run of 4ga?

There's no point talking to an electrician. They deal with high voltage AC. The kind of numbers we are talking about in car audio are insane to them - go check your main circuit breaker on your house, it's probably only 50A or so.

By the way, you don't see a lot of 1/0 even in residential installations. Go find your ground peg, it's probably only 8ga.

EDIT: For the original poster, you can't test the current output of an alt when you have multiple grounds anyway. It only works if you test the single path back to the battery.

The other way to do it is disconnect the factory charge cable and then put a DC clamp meter on your 'big 3' charge cable. Then do a burp and see what you can pull :D

thank you very much!! I appreciate the advice. Now I know how to find out the current output of my alt. Can't wait to test it.

Loud as f*ck, and sounds good doing it.

Team built from here on out!!!!

BIG things to come.........

Missing link is the shite!!!

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