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Battery Tip


Guest MegaloManiac

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Ok, so I read the thread through, verbatum, twice.  I think that I understood most of it, but I didn't find a distinct answer.  I have a red top (75/25) and a yellow top (D31).  Should I just sell my yellow top and run the red top to my 4600 watt system, or should I try and run an isolator to isolate the yellow top, or should I buy a capacitor instead of the yellow top, or is there a way to link that batteries differently so that they do what I want, which is keep my amp running at higher volts (upwards of 13V or higher)?  What I was trying to accomplish with this was to maintain a good reserve of power for my system, and this was what optima suggested when I asked them about batteries for a sound system.  So, I am open to suggestions on where I should go from now.  If it helps I have 1 RE MT 18 with Fi soft parts with dual 1.4 hooked up to a modded Visonik V4000XD that is modded to run .7 ohms stable, with 4 runs of 1/0 Kicker Hyperflex, also keep in mind I am 17 and don't have unlimited money.  So, hmmmmmm, not sure what to do now.

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Guest MegaloManiac

well that cap is a completely last resort.  But if you can find a way to isolate your battery so they dont draw power off each other yet still be charged by the alt then do it. I've told you can make one using diodes and stuff. I'm still learning a lil bit. But this is what you can do if you dont want to do that: 1. Run all red tops, this would get you the most power on demand when your car is on since they have thinner plates, 2. run all deep cycles, this more benficial if your car is off sence it can be drained and recharged without damging the batteries but will have a slower response time compared to the redtops, also deepcycle batteries take longer to charge up. Id say if you can trade one of your batteries.

But I have a question for you. Have you replaced your alty with a HO alty?

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No I haven't replaced my alternator, I do not have the money for that right now, I am working on paying for my $40,000 a year tuition to University of Puget Sound, but if I save my money I might be able to get one by summer.  What are suggestions for isolators/isolator set up?

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Guest MegaloManiac

No I haven't replaced my alternator, I do not have the money for that right now, I am working on paying for my $40,000 a year tuition to University of Puget Sound, but if I save my money I might be able to get one by summer.  What are suggestions for isolators/isolator set up?

I'm still trying to figure that out myself lol, its pretty tuff right now, but once i find out i'll post it ;). try trading one of the batteries and go from there...having same batteries will prolong the life of the batteries rather than having different ones.

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i've always heard that a redtop was best for the front and a yellowtop for the rear and everything would be straight an good to go. now i have a yellowtop in my truck and its' not just a deep cyce it's a dual purpose starter and deep cycle battery. so i'm guessing it's yellowtop mixed with a red. it costs more than the regular deep cycle yellowtop. now what do you think on that as far as having a dual purpose yellowtop?

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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Guest MegaloManiac

i've always heard that a redtop was best for the front and a yellowtop for the rear and everything would be straight an good to go. now i have a yellowtop in my truck and its' not just a deep cyce it's a dual purpose starter and deep cycle battery. so i'm guessing it's yellowtop mixed with a red. it costs more than the regular deep cycle yellowtop. now what do you think on that as far as having a dual purpose yellowtop?

you can run the yellow tops as a starter battery, but the thing is you are not supose to link a pure starter battery to a deep cycle. You can damge the batteries in the long run, and they charge differently

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Yeah this is what I have heard as well, and it makes sense in the head you now, but I guess I see how the yellow-yellow, red-red concept works as well, I don't know it is really a toss up, especially with the amplication, you know, like dd or spl, so I guess I just need to call Optima and sort this out, but I think the guy that has convinced me of all of this is right, but I don't know I won't be putting my system in for a few months so I will see how this all sorts out.  I think I am going to end up going with a Yellow 75/25 and a Yellow D31.

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Guest MegaloManiac

Yeah this is what I have heard as well, and it makes sense in the head you now, but I guess I see how the yellow-yellow, red-red concept works as well, I don't know it is really a toss up, especially with the amplication, you know, like dd or spl, so I guess I just need to call Optima and sort this out, but I think the guy that has convinced me of all of this is right, but I don't know I won't be putting my system in for a few months so I will see how this all sorts out.  I think I am going to end up going with a Yellow 75/25 and a Yellow D31.

if Optima says something i'd really like to know. Please post up if you ask.

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well i got a hookup with the dual purpose yellowtop i have. a regular yellowtop would run between $139 -$159 in the store and the dual purpose runs between $169 - $189. i'll be getting another dual purpose. i'm still thinking about getting the kinetik HC800 for a farad since it works like  200 farad and it's cheap on ebay.

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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