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New Alternator Working Nice But


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It was just an observation. The alt has no plug bro! No big deal just never saw an alt put out 15.2v unpluged. Its cool !!!! We don't sell alts so we don't really care about alt manufactures, rather just ask questions for SMD members to be better informed. Rock on mechman!!!!!

MLA

missinglinkaudio

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The United States Marine Corps. When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight - even if "it" belongs to the base commander...

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It helps people trust you more when they have visuals.

Don't take this wrong in anyway its just a question. The alt in the pics was a cs144 , now I see you have the regulator turned up to 15.2volts. Now this is what our product does for the newer alts with the cars computer issue. So since we (MLA) get stock/HO alts to put out at 15volts. How come we cant work together to help Steve's forum be the best it can be about alt , batt,and charging information. After all if your showing an older style alt before "computer controlled alts" cs144 built for 15v then our module that does the same for the computer controlled cars should be fine as well right!!! Thanks for the pics!!!

Chris @ MLA

You are right, we do not have an option for 2005 and up GM vehicles, most Hondas and late model chryslers/mitsubishi's who desire higher charging voltage. I have never said that the MLA module does not serve a good purpose in some applications, I was merely defending my product from attack.

Thanks

Matt

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the bare stud that you are referring to is the supplemental grounding stud that we supply to make the big 3 easier. If you look in the first pic, you will see that there are two large studs about 2" apart from one another; one positive and one negative.

I am aware that there is no plug plugged into the alternator. One wire technology has existed for over 20 years, every alternator company out there offers it as an option on a CS alternator. It makes multiple alt setups much easier. (you don't have to wire multiple plugs) I addressed this in my response, please read it in full before you argue more.

Perhaps one of my customers could experiment with this on their own vehicle- ( I have sold at least 20 of these adjustable units to forum members) Why don't you unplug your plug Caddylac, and play with the screw on the back of the alternator and tell everyone what your DMM reads?

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Thats some bad ass pic editing! Teach me that shit FTW!

Mechman were are not worried about your product. I guess if both pics were the same it would have never been an issue. Pics are very important to most internet readers to come to a conclusion on a purchase. No worries like I said before we don't build alts so rock on. We know you give good deals and the red anodized heat sink that extends through the alternator's rear housing to cool the internal electronics we see used on powermaster spl alts. When we started MLA we went through the same "your shit don't work talk as well" it takes trust for sure. Posts can allways be look upped and they will do so to bash ANYONE ANYTIME! We went through the same BS on S_A forum now look at us. Just keep an honest reliable product and you will be fine. Dom has been the alt of SMD for a long time and still is so take your time, build the trust and help with the questions like we do and it will come. We all appreciate the smokin deals on the P-M stuff. Like I said you do your thing and we can do ours there is room for both of our products and knowledge on here for sure.

Posted Image This is the power master red just like you are adjusting in the pic. P-M parts sweet.

missinglinkaudio

r91ks0.jpg

The United States Marine Corps. When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight - even if "it" belongs to the base commander...

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the bare stud that you are referring to is the supplemental grounding stud that we supply to make the big 3 easier. If you look in the first pic, you will see that there are two large studs about 2" apart from one another; one positive and one negative.

I am aware that there is no plug plugged into the alternator. One wire technology has existed for over 20 years, every alternator company out there offers it as an option on a CS alternator. It makes multiple alt setups much easier. (you don't have to wire multiple plugs) I addressed this in my response, please read it in full before you argue more.

Perhaps one of my customers could experiment with this on their own vehicle- ( I have sold at least 20 of these adjustable units to forum members) Why don't you unplug your plug Caddylac, and play with the screw on the back of the alternator and tell everyone what your DMM reads?

Im referring to the stud behind the longer bar stud. that the longer stud is hiding.

You should see some sort of wire? shouldnt you? or a hand holding the dmm probe on the stud. something, anything?

and I dont have to unplug my cadillac becasue I run a real regulator where I dont have to go under my hood to adjust my voltage. Its all done in car. makes things much easier, thats why i went with a transpo vs a internal regulator..

I can jack my voltage up to 21+ but my car wigs out. Tho it will take 16-16.3 volts fine.

 

 

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