Derrick824 Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Vehicle: '93 Ford Explorer Sport Engine: 4.0L v6 Amp: Sundown Audio saz-1500d Subs: 2 15" Sundown Audio NightShades Let's start at the beginning of this experience. When MechMan put their 300a alts on sale I jumped on it. From the time I ordered these they were on my doorstep in 6 business days. Thats quick for 3 custom built alternators. 3 300a MechMan alts and an external adjustable regulator. 1 is for my Explorer. The other 2 & external regulator are for my brother's Excursion. I'll post more on that one later. Old setup. G31 YellowTop and a 200a alternator. Battery and intake pipe removed. Alt removed. Old 200a on left, MechMan 300a on right. Notice the smaller custom machined pulley. 1/0 lugs included for doing the big 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick824 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 (edited) 1/0awg Knukonceptz Kollosus Fleks Kable used for big 3 wiring. Alt installed. XS Power d3100 installed. This is strictly about the alts. I'll do a comparison between the batts later. Charges at 14.7v cold and 14.4v warm. A couple random pics. Lonely XS Power d3100 in the back. Now for the good stuff; The Results! First burp with the engine off as a baseline it hit a 150.2 (sorry no pic). With the engine on and idling around 600-700rpm it hit a 150.5. Yes this alt puts out good power at idle. Last test holding 1500rpm it hit a 150.9. Edited May 11, 2009 by Derrick824 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick824 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 I'm running my saz-1500d @ 0.25ohm so it's current draw is higher than normal. Voltage fell from 14.4v to 13.6v at full tilt. I haven't measured current draw of the amp, wattage output of the amp, or current output of the alt yet but will go more in depth with that stuff later. Wired at 1ohm for daily and Bass Race my voltage doesn't move at all. Time to get rid of that Optima decal. Replaced with XS Power and MechMan decals. Stay tuned. More testing to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 3 alts? where are the other 2? Quote you can cook bacon shirtless if you're not a pussy...lol not hatin, but am i wrong here it looks as if the amp is not grounded its hooked directly to the battery. it that the way it should be. DC POWER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick824 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 3 alts? where are the other 2? 1 is for my Explorer. The other 2 & external regulator are for my brother's Excursion. I'll post more on that one later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 rofl i fial :\ Quote you can cook bacon shirtless if you're not a pussy...lol not hatin, but am i wrong here it looks as if the amp is not grounded its hooked directly to the battery. it that the way it should be. DC POWER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E a r t h Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 hell yeah! i just installed my mechman alt recently and noticed a substantial gain in output too ftw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick824 Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 To add a little more info to this, with my old 200a alt I would fall straight to 12.9v (battery resting voltage) during a full tilt burp. It couldn't keep up at all and if I didn't have two large batteries sustaining that 12.9v I'm sure the voltage would have dropped more than that. The MechMan has no trouble providing enough power. In local competitions I'm limited to a max 2000rpms in the lanes. Since NSPL won't let you manually rev the engine I have to rig a throttle hook under the hood to hold the rpms up for me. Once I turn up the volume and the alt kicks into high gear the engine drops to 1500rpms cause of the extra load. If I was allowed to manually rev the engine and hold it at 2000rpm (typically max output rpm for alts) it probably wouldn't even fall below 14v. What this means is that I don't need an extra battery in the back at all. Nor do I need such a large battery under the hood. I bet i could drop a single small lawn mower battery in here and do the same or similiar #s since the alternator is supplying plenty of juice by itself and I'm not relying on the batteries to supplement it. All you guys who are just adding batteries instead of upgrading your alternator really need to re-think your game plan. It is much more beneficial to upgrade your alternator than add extra batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sully Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 MechMan alts ftw Quote 2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's 2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine. 2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's 2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmitch Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 yes sir Quote I know a lil about everything so dont call me Mr. Know it All. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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