EpicenterDesigns Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 will this work on exterior pieces as well? Yes Building The Best.....Repairing The Rest The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer than the sweetness of that cheap price! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tek Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 if the plastic has been previously painted, do I need to sand all the paint off of it to redo it or can I just go over it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeyrapboy Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 if the plastic has been previously painted, do I need to sand all the paint off of it to redo it or can I just go over it? If your talkin about your clad molding i would not sand it, But the general rule is the better the prep the better end result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tek Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 Yes Im talkin interior pieces. Theres no peeling but I hit some things on the paint a few timea and theres some chips. Nothing flakey though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z71 Thumper Posted December 9, 2010 Report Share Posted December 9, 2010 Hi I was reading the post n it worked great on my tahoe but I just have one problem with my other car I have a 2001 Camry and I want my top dash glossy but my dash is a soft leather like material do I also do the sme steps? How Sobieski also remove the top dash I've tried before but almost broke it by the cluster <script language='JavaScript' src='http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/downloads/banner_link.asp?p_id=18'></script> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyeagain15 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 Yes Im talkin interior pieces. Theres no peeling but I hit some things on the paint a few timea and theres some chips. Nothing flakey though I personally would sand down smooth again, and repaint... You can do it either way... If you paint over it, its gonna show the chips and not be perfectly smooth, whereas if you sand smooth and repaint, you'll never see the chips and it'll be perfectly smooth... If you do chip, make sure you featheredge around the chip (blow off dust with an airgun). Doing that will allow the paint to stick and a gradual incline between sanded coats for a level, flush finished surface Ive dry sand with 1500, wet sand with 3000, then apply buffing compound. Note: using a block while sanding assures a smooth level curve> doing it by hand can show an uneven finish. Applying check coat to see highs and lows helps knowing where to sand. My F-150 Build (So Far) 2 DC L3 10's Kenwood KDC-X794 (4) Selenium ST200 (Highs) (2) RE X8 (Mids) Sundown Sub/Mid/High Amps Shuriken Batteries Knu Wiring My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameronmyers74 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Armour All is then devil I agree:P get that stuff in a body shop and you will have problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darinmoose Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 gonna try this on the plastic part of my front grille insert. very nervous cause im a very beginner at this, so its basically my first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1ohm1der Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 This is the same Tips I have on www.fiberglassforums.com and thought I would post them here also. Maybe it will help someone out. Maybe it will make a sticky? This question comes up all the time. There is more than 1 way to do it. So I wrote down how I do it. It seems to work out perfectly. Works equally well with automotive paints and spray can paints. If you have something you can add to it, feel free to post it here and let me know. To make sure your panels are oil free, like from Armour All and shit, wipe them down several times with a wax and grease remover. If they are really Armour All'ed down, use a brake cleaner. Get a bucket of soapy water to wetsand with. Sand the grain out of them with a 80 grit wetsand. Get at least 75% of the grain out. Then wetsand with a 150 - 180 grit. Then move to a wetsand with 220 grit. If for some reason you are odd and like the grain look, skip that part. Clean the panel again with wax and grease remover and also a tack cloth. I suggest wearing latex gloves to keep oils from your hands transfereing to the panels. Spary the panel with an Adheisive Promoter. Follow directions on can. Spray with FILLER primer. As many coats as are needed to fill in all the grain. For small items such as trim panels, kick panels and pillars, SEM makes a filler Primer that is awsome or you can use Duplicolor Grey Filler Primer. They also have a red rust colored filler primer. Avoid it. For some reason it sand horrible. Wetsand that with 220. If you see your self going to deep into the plastic before you are happy with the finish, dry and clean the panel off with wax and grease remover and spray more primer on it. Keep this process till happy. Final wetsand with 400 grit. Clean the panel with wax and grease remover and a tack cloth and then paint. Spray as many coats as you like, 3 is usually plenty, and do it in light coats as heavy will clog and run. Let it dry in the sun if possible as long as you can. Overnight is prefered. If you feel there are some imperfections, wet sand with 600 or more till you are happy. Clean it real good and then spray a clear coat over it. Again in light coats. I try to let the clear coat dry for a couple days for best results. what is adhesive promoter for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torres Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 The adheisive promoter will make the sanded plastic parts accept the primers and basecoats and make them stick better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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