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Hello! Been watching a lot of your videos and have become even more intrigued to advance a bit more in the car audio world. Have a fair set up right now, and working on the next jump as my buddy is gonna let me use his 3K Taraamp until I can swing upward that way!!! Hoping to learn and grow within the sights of Mr. Meade!!!!

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Hello!, I've been watching a lot of your videos last few weeks to the point where I think I feel comfortable doing my own build, I currently have a aftermarket sound system that someone installed here in my City. I have two Cadence ultra shock 12' wired to 2ohms on a Skar RP1500.1 which is only give me 930Watts at 2ohms and the website for Cadence say's each speaker recommended power is 100 - 450 but RMS is 750 each, am I under powering those subs? I also had them run active for my speakers on a Re audio 90.4 at 4 ohms, they also installed a capacitor. They ran a 4awg OFC wire from the battery "17ft" to the Capacitor then used 8awg ofc from the positive on the capacitor to the power wires for all three amps and same with the negatives the Negative on the capacitor is the only ground to my car. I had no knowledge about car audio back then, but know now that it shouldn't be that way but I've left it because I had no problems yet it's been 3 years. I have a stock AGM battery and Alternator I have not done the big 3 yet, I bought a 350A high output Alternator recently, waiting for it to be shipped I am getting everything ready for a next build. What I would like to know is, was I jumping the gun in buying that 350A alternator for this next build which includes "check below" or should I have just left it stock and just added two new batteries and done the big 3? Thank you guys, I can upload photos of my current system if you would like. 

 

1 SUNDOWN AUDIO X Series v.3 12" DVC 2ohm but might buy a second one in the future.

1 Soundigital 3000.1 EVO x2 2ohm 

1 XS POWER | D3400R | 2500W / 4000W ( Reverse Polarity) 

1 350 A alternator 

1 big 3 kit 0AWG 

0 AWG from the battery to a SMD FB-4 Quad fuse block. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/13/2022 at 12:50 PM, floridaplur said:

Curious if you ever got this figured out? We spoke over on mazdas247 forum. I've been slowly trying more power on stock power... and am now running an RP2000.1D and the electrical seems fine with it. I'm really hoping to figure out a way to run the Taramps Smart 5 and some sort of 4 channel for the doors...but no way until this alternator issue or an alternative is figured out.

I honestly haven't had time. I apparently had an issue with my negative battery terminal being loose, which caused a TCM problem. The battery is charged now, no issues thus far.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...

Old member here joining back. Used to drive a 2010 Camry back when I used to be on here, it has a blown motor now though lmaoo but now I daily a 2006 350z Roadster. No audio upgrades yet but it has ISR High Flow Cats, ISR Y Pipe, Mishimoto CAI, and Eibach lowering springs on KYB struts. Soon gonna be trying to fit a 12" sub behind the seats with upgraded mids/highs and head unit! 

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