94' Acura Integra RS

[Marlo Stanfield]

Bandpass boxes usually only sound decent if they are built for a specific sub. They are mainly used because they look cool, but doesn't usually sound as good as a sealed or ported box.

Possibly one of the more incorrect statements I've heard. Seems as though you've never seen/heard a properly designed and build bandpass before to drop a statement like that. Well designed and built bandpass enclosures have pretty much no equal for SPL, daily or SQ(which ever it is built to perform in) if done correctly. Prefab bandpass enclosures on the other hand for the most part are absolute shit. This is due to these companies mass producing them, they're using "general" subwoofer specs and usually aren't the highest quality build material.

To the OP, didn't mean to get off topic just don't like seeing incorrect info being thrown around... If you need any help just ask.

[LSN2meBoom916]

x2, Bandpass CAN sound good IMO.

Like ANYTHING, every box design has it's place and time, strengths and weaknesses, pro's & cons. It's the job of the person designing/building/matching that box to the products/components that will work with it in the SYSTEM (remember no SINGLE component will garauntee success when building your setup-there is no I in team...or system). You have to consider the type of material (music or tones/competing/showing off with lots of WOW factor, or just easy listening with an emphasis on SQ?) then buy & build accordingly.

You should REALLY think about what's most important/what you want out of your system and spend your $$ accordingly. It doesn't hurt to do some HW and DEMO or play with the parts before you buy them ESPECIALLY whe nit comes to a DECK-make sure you're comfy with the controls and detach face-some of em are GHEY/PITA to get on/off these days.

If you're starting out, in HS with little $$ (we'll say $1k as mentioned )and have a Gen 3 Integra (same car I drive), I would recommend:

Head unit: Kenwood KDC-X792 BNIB $145 shipped Buy it now off ebay (3preouts/4.0v) & Plays al lkinds of media.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KDC-X792-AM-FM...=item20adfcaad1

A decent 4chann. amp for your front & rear mids. (Go with a 100x4 rms if you pick some "higher end" component sets)

========================

KICKER ZX650.4 170rms x 4 @ 4 ohm $245.00shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-ZX650-4-4-CHANN...=item3a547fc69b

Fosgate T600-4 75-100rms x 4 @4ohm $380.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Power...=item2a0218c743

JBL-60x4 rms @ 4ohm. $112.00 Shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=390110271190

Alpine 50x4 rms @4ohm

Alpine MRP-F300 ~$140.00 shipped BNIB.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-MRP-F300-Car-Am...=item3ef9f97c60

A decent ~1000rms monoblock for ur subs.

============================

Alpine MRP-M1000 (1kw rms @ 2ohm) $260 shipped BNIB.

http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-2009-ALPINE-...=item518d22fd2d

KICKER ZX1000.1 (normally MORE than 1000rms, & bass knob included) ~$300.00 shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/100-NEW-KICKER-ZX1000-...=item35a4b8fafc

Subwoofers....SOOOO many options...

=========================

Kicker CVR-very good bang for your buck.

CVR 12's ~$75.00 each,shipped BNIB, all over ebay. (2 for $150.00, 4 for $300)

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-CVR12-CAR-AUDIO...=item53dd84fcfd

CVR 15's $130.00 shipped BNIB. (2 will fit in hatch below windowline easy, 4 will fit if you get creative)

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-COMP-VR-CVR15-C...CAR-SUBWOOFER-2 OHM_W0QQitemZ300336430317QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item45ed723ced

Alpine TYPE R 10" SWR-1042D $110.00ea shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-TYPE-R-SWR-1042...=item2ea8ffd88b

Alpine TYPE R SWR-1222D 12" $120.00ea shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-TYPE-R-SWR-1222...=item5d26d46d8c

Diamond Audio D6 15's (lil more $$ @ $170.00ea but you could run them @ 500rms each, then give them more later with a bigger amp)

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-DIAMOND-AUDIO-D615...=item518e0777ad

2) DIAMOND AUDIO D315D4.2's $200.00shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NEW-DIAMOND-AUDIO-D3...=item518d667220

Mids:

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Fronts should be components IMO.period. Rears can be 2ways.

JBL Power P-650C $80.00 shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/JBL-Power-P-650C-Car-C...=item4a9c0eb275

Alpine type R 6.5" components $130.00 shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-SPR-17S-6-5...=item3ef9ea4f56

INFINITY KAPPA 60.9CS $132.00 shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/INFINITY-KAPPA-60-9CS-...=item5ad4a9f463

Infinity Kappa perfect 5 1/4"s $180.00 shipped BNIB

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-INFINITY-KAPPA-PER...=item5d26a93b75

And sooo many more...

Rears: (whatever you can find for cheap since rear fill is basically optional)

======

ROCKFORD FOSGATE T162C $60.00 shipped BNIB..Done & done (I don't think anyone would argue with that)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-T162C...=item1c0d84b391

Example Total....

Deck: $145

Front mids: $135

Rear mids: $60.00

Subs: $150 (2 12's-could easily pickup 2 more later and rebuild your box)

Sub amp: $300

Mid amp: $245

Enclosure: $ ???

Wire $ ???

---------------------

Total $1035.00

A lil over and you still gotta pick your wiring and build a box, but something like that would be a good start and give you room to expand down the road.

[treossi]

i'd stsrt with deadening the doors and installing new mids and highs

[bumpnthump]

Possibly one of the more incorrect statements I've heard. Seems as though you've never seen/heard a properly designed and build bandpass before to drop a statement like that. Well designed and built bandpass enclosures have pretty much no equal for SPL, daily or SQ(which ever it is built to perform in) if done correctly. Prefab bandpass enclosures on the other hand for the most part are absolute shit. This is due to these companies mass producing them, they're using "general" subwoofer specs and usually aren't the highest quality build material.

To the OP, didn't mean to get off topic just don't like seeing incorrect info being thrown around... If you need any help just ask.

If you didn't read my whole post, I told the OP that its recommended that he builds his own box, obviously because prefabs are for the most part, shitty. I have heard my share of bandpass boxes and they all pretty much don't measure up to a properly built ported enclosure because they are built incorrectly.

[gene]

So if I add this full system from mids/highs, to amps for mids/highs and subs, and subs, just the full system. Will I have to run a second battery? Or can this all run off of my primary?

[OldsBoomer]

So if I add this full system from mids/highs, to amps for mids/highs and subs, and subs, just the full system. Will I have to run a second battery? Or can this all run off of my primary?

it all depends on what kind of power you'll be running but if your going to amp your mids and high and your sub/subs i would recommend upgrading your stock battery to a AGM battery then go form there

[LSN2meBoom916]

So if I add this full system from mids/highs, to amps for mids/highs and subs, and subs, just the full system. Will I have to run a second battery? Or can this all run off of my primary?

It super depends on what you end up getting AND (probably more importantly) HOW YOU RUN IT/i.e. have a digital voltage display somewhere that is accurate so you know when ur voltage is LOW and use common sense (what's that?) with your volume/bass knob when the voltage gets low.

You can have a million watt stereo on a stock electrical and never have ANY problems...the key is your AWARENESS of what's going on with your electrical when you are running your stereo.

*Watch Steve in his vids: He is a pro at demoing his setup because he has done it so many times, he has learned along the way to monitor as much as possible (Voltage, woofer movement/exscursion, engine RPM, engine Temp, etc) all the places where something could overheat, burn up or break mechanically...having the windows down helps the demo but also means he can hear if his belts slip of something happens under hood that would cause him to have to shut it down or back off.

it all depends on what kind of power you'll be running but if your going to amp your mids and high and your sub/subs i would recommend upgrading your stock battery to a AGM battery then go form there

I totoally agree.

Start with a good battery (Kinetic, Stinger, Battcap, odyssy, DC, there a re lots with similarly GOOD specs)

I put a Stinger SP1000 under my hood in the stock group 51 spot it just takes a bit of custom mounting but nothing too crazy.

I have had the Stock Alternator in my car since I got the car Brand new back in 1997. Never had an issue. However, to date, the most power I have run is 1200-1400rms sub amp and a 75x4 mid amp. I watch my voltage when I'm demoing since I'm sitting still and I rev to 2000rpm and like I said no worries. But just like Steve, I have to watch & listen to the "car & system" along with the music to make sure I don't over run anything.

Knowledge is your best asset when you put your system together since it is FREE and there is basically an INFINITE amount of it out there.

Ask as many Q's as you can before you RUIN something and plan it out as best you can.

And if it's a 2 dr gen 3 I have a couple custom boxes for sale for 4 12's or 2 15's

Edited November 11, 2009 by LSN2meBoom916