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Second Skin Audio

My first ported box..


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1 5/8" drywall screws is pretty much the standard of what is used by many people... Stay around 4" away from the corners and 3-4" of space between screws.

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area

156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace

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I use course thread drywall screws (length depends on where I'm using them) usually spaced 6-8 inches apart. It all depends on the cut though. If you use a circle saw, and get a pretty straight cut, but not perfect, they may need to be a lil closer to suck the wood down on the glue....^^And I use Titebond II as well, along with silicone on the inside seems.

Edited by rmzsuzuki89
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I am about to start building my box i will keep this all in mind when i get that far.. and i see all these boxs people using an extra baffle board.. is this really needed? thanks

I think this needed depending on how heavy the subs are and how thick the wood is,

ex. If youre building a box for 2 18's with .75 MDF, I would highly recommend putting a second or even a third baffle,

I'm no professional though, It just releaves stress off the first baffle.

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just built my first ported box a week ago and it came out pretty well, I used screws about 4 inches away from eachother and at least 2-3'' from corners. LOTS of titebond 2 glue and i may have gone a little overboard on the sealing but I put a bead of liquid nails on the inside and outside of every seam and smoothed it over with a finger and then a few days later I went back over every inside seam with some silicone so I have some nice rounded corners that should be just about as airtight as you can get.

2012 silverado ext cab ltz

24" kmc rims

AudioQue 2200

Pioneer AppRadio

Alpine mrx f35 4 channel

Bose mids and highs

Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit

Yellowtop+stock under hood

0 gauge Knu wire

Big 3

4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring)

3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts

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i predrill my screw holes so they don't crack the mdf i use these they work great and countersink

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Edited by kanarrjl

97 Honda Civic Sedan

Rear disc brake conversion

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17's

lots of exterior mods

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SoundStream VIR-5850 Dvd player

RE 6x9's and 6.5's

Soundstream DTR4.500

Soundstream DTR1.2200

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Kinetik 1800

Plans

4-SA-8's

Another Kinetik

High output alt

My Cardomain

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I am about to start building my box i will keep this all in mind when i get that far.. and i see all these boxs people using an extra baffle board.. is this really needed? thanks

Is very dependant on what woofers and amps you'll be running... So what are u running??

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area

156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace

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