jack Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 with todays high power systems an iso can actually harm you. it would be continually swithching back and forth and also cause extra wear on the alt. where you might use one.....lets pretend you dont have any amps just a deck and spks. wire in the isolator for main battery and auxilary batery. you go camping shut off the vehical and fall asleep drunk while fishing with the radio on(first youve made sure to be in acc not ignition position on the key) now you wake up and are able to start the truck because your starting battery was not drained. do this too many times and alternator dies because as soon as it starts it switches back to aux and spikes because it has to try to charge a dead battery. not good Quote http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=29213 "sleeper build" (1) DC AUDIO Level4XL 10 (2) PowermasterD2700 batteries ALL FOR SALE TEAM DC AUDIO TEAM DIRTFLOORPOOR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeejayBee Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 whatever your amps total fuse count is, a little more than that I have two 1000.1's and im about to get a 350.4 so im guessing getting a 300amp fuse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dugee81 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 I have two 1000.1's and im about to get a 350.4 so im guessing getting a 300amp fuse? maybe possibly a 250 if you wanted too Quote 200a alt. by Excessive Amperage hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear 1/0awg + big 3 SAZ 3000D HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim2fattycake Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 I use a relay between my front battery and my back battery. It has the pros of an isolator but not the cons. It basically disconnections the link between the battery when the car is off or not in accessory, depending on what power supply line the relay is connected to. I have it on the accessories line so I can listen with the car off too if I wanted too. Quote SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 whatever your amps total fuse count is, a little more than thatnever overfuse your wire capability he better run atleast /00 for that much wattage Quote http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=29213 "sleeper build" (1) DC AUDIO Level4XL 10 (2) PowermasterD2700 batteries ALL FOR SALE TEAM DC AUDIO TEAM DIRTFLOORPOOR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim2fattycake Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 The fuses near the batteries are for the wire and not for the amps. The fuses near the amps are for the amp unless amp's fuses are already on the amp. This is kind of basic. Quote SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basshead08 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 If the amp has fuses on it you still need to fuse your power wire going into the amp in most applications Quote System tear out has begun...Out with the old i have a iq of 128 i graduated at the top of my class tell me how im reatrded you are the 1 thats dumb as hell you can't even spell Look at the underlined text hahahahahahahaha I think of it as the virgin losing the virginity technique not just jumping in to it, and pounding away, but going at it slowly over time, to get to that full extreme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim2fattycake Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Thats for the wire and not for the amp. If the amp has fusing on it already, why are you going to protect the fuses that protect the amp? And what applications are you talking about? Quote SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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