Need quick confirmation on box.

[siucsaluki11]

at a quick look at it, it looks like it would do fine, but ^ hes right about the sub displacment. the only thing that would concern me would be the end of the port inside the box. with it ending that way and not having an "L", you may get some port noise from turbulance.

Having it too close would or not having an L would? Im not buying the not having an L thing, but being too close i would believe.

[toylocost]

So I want to make my port 19" long like the calculator in my last post says.

If I do it like this... The red part will be 16~1/16" and the green part will be 2~15/16". Add the two up and that equals 19". Is this the correct way to get 19"?

[Clif]

Please explain why you dont need to? Id like to know. Seeing as IT DEPLACES SPACE.

the 45 in the vent. not the box

[Torres]

This box will be loud but not deep.

not true. maybe not quite as deep as a box with less port area, but my box has about 16 sq inches of port like this one and almost the same tuning...and mine gets plenty deep

I do it like this... The red part will be 16~1/16" and the green part will be 2~15/16". Add the two up and that equals 19". Is this the correct way to get 19"?

measure down the middle of the port to get port length. if you do it the way you say, measuring on the outer walls would be much longer. so measuring down the middle of the port will get you correct numbers

a 45 in the vent would be nice. bracing i say is always a good idea. but 45's in the box arent as necessary

Edited December 14, 2009 by ExpoSport

[toylocost]

So if i measure down the center it leaves me with just under a half inch at a 90. I I'm guessing the thickness of the port wall (3/4") will put me close enough to what I need?

EDIT: That would be removing the green part and just leaving it at that.

Edited December 14, 2009 by toylocost

[Boon]

IMO too big and too much port for rock/country. But that's just me.

[Ben Building]

not true. maybe not quite as deep as a box with less port area, but my box has about 16 sq inches of port like this one and almost the same tuning...and mine gets plenty deep

measure down the middle of the port to get port length. if you do it the way you say, measuring on the outer walls would be much longer. so measuring down the middle of the port will get you correct numbers

a 45 in the vent would be nice. bracing i say is always a good idea. but 45's in the box arent as necessary

Your box looks much better with the corner added.

If you tune your box to 36 hertz, then the port will unload on notes deeper than that. "Unloading" means your port acts more like a giant hole in the enclosure instead of an output-augmenting device. Below tuning, response rolls off at up to 18 db/octave and the woofer sees no mechanical resistance from the port. It just plays in free-air. On music, there is no-telling what kind of note the sub will get thrown at it. It is better to design an enclosure that plays ALL the notes and not just the higher ones.

Don't listen to this guy^^. Tune deeper, even if you have to increase overall size a little bit.

Edited December 14, 2009 by Ben Building

[toylocost]

In my 4runner I have 2 15s tuned to 37.5hz in 9cuft. It does just fine.

[Clif]

i usually stick around the 14ish area for sq inch of port per cube. Most of my boxes are tuned to about 31 hz. plays the lows amazing but yet still sounds pretty good on the rock or country. but if your more of a rock person i would tune just a jib jab higher. but there will be nothing like a t line on rock oooo just amazingness. if you got the room and the right sub that is what i would do.

[siucsaluki11]

I think the highest ive tuned a box was 34 Hz for my own personal use. And that was one of the first ones i did. But tuning is kinda dependant on what woofer you wanna run. Some like lower tuning. Others, like AQ and DD will drop way below tuning and like tuning up higher around 38Hz. Fav box in my blazer was 4.8 cubes, 60 in^2 of port area, tuned around 32 Hz