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Hi guys, thought you might want to look at my build since you guys are into walls, unlike Australians. Some parts are copy and paste from an Aussie forum, so stick with it if it doesnt make any sense

...

Anyways, i've had a Hyundai Excel (accent to you) walled with 4 18's and a 4kw amp on one PC2150. For such cheap gear, it hit LOW, and did consistant 150's sealed at 32hz. But that took its toll, and between lows and the weight of the wall the car started giving up the ghost;

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Although i got addicted to that sealed diamond sound, plenty of lows

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So i needed a new ride, something with more space and more acoustically friendly. This is where Mike (Charger) helped me decide to get a Jackaroo AKA Trooper like him. Was hoping to pick up a 2 door like him, but there were'nt any going, 4 door had to do.

After a trip out to some dodgy suburbs and $3k later, i had this driven away with a year of registration;

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A problem: playing tunes while parked means contorting ones hand over the auto stick

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Solution: flip out screen

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Solved: :)

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While i was at the hardware store, i grabbed a couple pieces of MDF....

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But as i went to take out i felt the urge for a wood-nap.

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Must be too soft :)

First layer

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snug

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/RAD...oo/100_0570.jpg

Had NFI how to do the roof, i just chucked 2x4 up to give the MDF something to hold onto.

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After that i went for a trip to the BAD side of town. But as a surprise, rather than someone taking something, they put somethin in:

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8 Odyssey PC1700's, not bad for $150 AUD when they retail at $650.

Roof on:

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Working night in my shed, too small

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'91 Trooper - 12 x 15's

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CONTINUED

A few days later, i had these come in the post:

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To join these

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20kw of nice cheap power. Pity their 110cm wide!

Time for that back wall! Like the excel i'm using 2x4 to hold it on, always a nice base to screw mdf to. Girlfriends daughter and friend wanted in on the pix

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Wood is running a little low, so some spare offcuts get chucked on the first layer, if it were ported all the vertical timber slats would hurt my score, but since we're going sealed its no drama. A little expanding foam to seal things up too.

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A flat sheet of MDF goes on next to seal anything up from the first layer. Halfway through the part on the jigsaw that holds the blade on broke, so that put a stop to any small cuts til tomorrow.

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More tint action, gotta love that 0% man! Rather than spray the rear doors, i painted the box for the time being, i actually need that little gap behind the b-pillar to see out of, 'roo doors are so short!

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At this point I'm way behind schedule.... And the bum end is sagging and bottoming out. That sagging problem got solved by this:

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Small rear ground, needs another from the chassis

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Rear battery charge cable, coming out of the engine bay through the wheel well

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... And into the cabin via some random hole in the floor

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Inbetween drinks and sweating on a 40c night, i put some DD 6x9's in the doors for something to listen to. No point going fancy when their only gonna get shredded, or the door lasts a few months.

In Progress

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One i prepared earlier

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MDF will be covered with... something.

'91 Trooper - 12 x 15's

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CONTINUED (image limit sucks)

At about this point i was contemplating subs, we dont have much in the way of subs, and i really wanted to go a diamond. My 18's were good, but were meant to be for HT setups, they didnt play loud over 35hz, and theres no other options for 18's at a reasonable price. Not that i could fit them.

15's might work, but only 12, and a 2kw sub that plays low sealed? So i went for 12's, plenty of options, and i could squeeze in 24 with 3 rows of 8 in the diamond. It would be a copy of tommy mckinnies build, so its nicknamed LO PROBLEMS.

My best options were DD2512's or RE SE's, and despite a great offer from DD, i felt more confident going sealed and low with the SE's. While i was deciding, both distributors of RE & DD had a nice beef between 'em.

Its HOT in Australia, even down the southern states, 40c (100f?) calls for drinks

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... anyway. A trip to clayton, and for $60 per meter i could get some 10x30mm copper! Nearly had a heart attack, it's jumped 5x in 6 years!

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Every hole took almost a whole battery from my cordless, it sucks but i found a nicer, quieter and healthier option for my cordless: manually. Screw down the copper to a bench, put your drill bit in a vise grips, and 6-10 hard turns its done.

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And so since the busbars are up and running, plugged in the rear charge cable, no big spark or anything, time to check or redo the rear ground

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ZOMG A FUSE!!!111one (dont usually run them)

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An overall shot, you can see a couple surfboards already fit for size. YES, the 'amp racks' look sh1t, but that's about the strongest solution i could think of using wood. All of it needs to disassemble to slide in that green laminate shelf, and work my way down to the bus bars. The last two, one is mounted upside down, the other on a shelf over the batts.

Once everything is loud and working, i'll re-do it with steel and make it all nice and pretty.

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Wiring gap

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Still a good 4-5cm gap between everything and the rear doors

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Although, 20kw of amps in that tiny area will get hot in a hurry, theres some spare of these hanging around to push some air

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In the long term, an external vent and intake might be necessary, not looking forward to that.

Still more drinks:

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NEW $40 router shall die a terrible death cutting sub holes, the fence came out with a couple screws, and some ali brackets tek screwed in makes a nice circle jig

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Measure 6 times, router 6 passes. Note wicked jig

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2 out of 8 potatoes!

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And about this point it had taken 3 hours to do 4-6 passes on each cutout going slow. f*** it, ramp the speed up and do it in one pass.

Another hour later...

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6 potatoes! Too much dust, centimeters thick

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'91 Trooper - 12 x 15's

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And that's where thats at. Sorry if i comment too much, i know you guys like pics, but do you really want 10 of the same thing?

More work due after a nights sleep, have fun reading that haha

'91 Trooper - 12 x 15's

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this sounds like it is going to be impressive

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

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looks good but what subs

R.I.P!

(Nov-29-2009)

92 explorer

- 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz

current build

97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0

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12 12s re Sexs

dang

R.I.P!

(Nov-29-2009)

92 explorer

- 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz

current build

97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0

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even better, sealed or ported? bandpass?

R.I.P!

(Nov-29-2009)

92 explorer

- 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz

current build

97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0

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