alan wilson Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) what do you do if for some strange reason your 16 volt battery bank (charging at 18 volts) goes flat therefore you will need a jump start but you dont know anyone else that runs 16 volt batteries, do you need a 12 volt starting battery at the front or is everything getting power straight from the voltage step down moduals? i am pretty intrested in going with 16 volt batteries because i already have 2 350 SMD alternators from mechman with a ajustable voltage regulator that will charge 16 volt batteries with no problems and because i have not bought any batteries yet i figure it may be worth looking into, only problem is i have never seen it done before so im not sure how safe it is to go to 16 volts. Edited July 8, 2011 by alan wilson 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMI CUSTOMS Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Just have the starter wire were it is easily removable from the battery and connect that to the jump, get it started and you alt will start to charge your bank back up once running. Quote TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan wilson Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Just have the starter wire were it is easily removable from the battery and connect that to the jump, get it started and you alt will start to charge your bank back up once running. thats not a bad idea thanks for the reply, oh and while you replied i was editing my last post, just thought i would let you know incase there is something else you can help with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan @ XSpower Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 what do you do if for some strange reason your 16 volt battery bank (charging at 18 volts) goes flat therefore you will need a jump start but you dont know anyone else that runs 16 volt batteries, do you need a 12 volt starting battery at the front or is everything getting power straight from the voltage step down moduals? i am pretty intrested in going with 16 volt batteries because i already have 2 350 SMD alternators from mechman with a ajustable voltage regulator that will charge 16 volt batteries with no problems and because i have not bought any batteries yet i figure it may be worth looking into, only problem is i have never seen it done before so im not sure how safe it is to go to 16 volts. In your case it will be very simple and more cost effective to run one alternator for the 12V side and one alternator for the 16V side. No need for step down modules and a lot safer and easier. Most mid and high amps can't take 16V any way, so your 12V alt could handle all the vehicle power needs and the mids and highs with a 12V battery. Then you would have a dedicated alternator for your 16V battery bank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinWilson Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 what do you do if for some strange reason your 16 volt battery bank (charging at 18 volts) goes flat therefore you will need a jump start but you dont know anyone else that runs 16 volt batteries, do you need a 12 volt starting battery at the front or is everything getting power straight from the voltage step down moduals? i am pretty intrested in going with 16 volt batteries because i already have 2 350 SMD alternators from mechman with a ajustable voltage regulator that will charge 16 volt batteries with no problems and because i have not bought any batteries yet i figure it may be worth looking into, only problem is i have never seen it done before so im not sure how safe it is to go to 16 volts. In your case it will be very simple and more cost effective to run one alternator for the 12V side and one alternator for the 16V side. No need for step down modules and a lot safer and easier. Most mid and high amps can't take 16V any way, so your 12V alt could handle all the vehicle power needs and the mids and highs with a 12V battery. Then you would have a dedicated alternator for your 16V battery bank. This was my plan but instead of 16v batteries charging to high 18's, I plan to do 14's charging to 16.2 Quote 06 GP GXP Google Nexus 7 16gb Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3 *Electrical* DC Power 320a HP 2 - Juicebox Bananas g31 Stinger SPP2250 rear Kinetik HC1800 side of wall Optima Red Top front Monster Cable 1/0, 2 runs to rear Monster Cable 1/0 Big 3 2-Rockford Fosgate T1652S's Rockford Fosgate T400-4 Rockford Fosgate T40001bd (4693rms @1ohm) 4-Sundown SA-15 D2's wired @ 1ohm/These are on the way out for 4 one off Eminent Audio 15's 15.2 cubes net tuned @34hz! Walled off DBdrag official 151.6db @46hz GXP Build log!:GP GXP Walled Quality is the sign of a true enthusiast! Refs: Link to leave more: http://www.stevemead...91#entry1603091 Bought from: Trippi (RF T2500bd, T1000-4),bre2ts (25ft Knu 1/0) Sold to: shmew22 (T1500bdCP), Rev. Wrath (RF 3SIXTY.1), trjohnst (Knu 1/0, 3 fuse holders), Enemyofsilence (Audio Technix, RF T400-4). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan @ XSpower Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 If you have the second alt there really isn't a reason to go with 14V over 16V unless you just want 14V or your amps can't take the higher voltage. There is a big gain from 14V to 16V and that is why all the top competitors are running 16V. Just a side note 16V systems charge in the 19.2V range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJD3 Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Then you would have a dedicated alternator for your 16V battery bank. If this were the chosen option, you would run the charge wire from the alternator to the battery bank as well as ground? Would the fuse size change since you're running at a higher voltage? I'm not doing this anytime soon, but knowing is half the battle. lol 1 Quote Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan @ XSpower Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 Yeah your alternator would be supplying your bank the power. Ground from front to back can never hurt. The fuse size would really be dependent upon on the fusing of the amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainman215 Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 How do these step-downs actually work? Any closeup pics of them? How so you run say a few 4 hannels in a 16v setup? Stepdowns and 1-2 12v batts? How do you wire one up and there's like 8 or 10 gauge leads from what I can tell. Quote My 02 Accord Wall Build 2 Sundown Audio Nightshade V1 18s --- 1 SAZ 3500 Sundown Audio 100.4 --- 4 Sundown Audio Neo-Pro 8s Sundown Audio 125.2 --- 2 Morel MD-12 Tweeters , 2 Selenium ST-200 Tweeters DC Power 270xp --- 4 XS Power D1200s | 1 D5100R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediarocker Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 (edited) Now this is a base for most vehicles some vehicles will need more stepdowns in parallel but you have to first test your vehicle just email me if you need help with a specific vehicle. I may or may not be able to help. Also I noted elsewhere that doing this gained me 4-5 mpg I would imagine due to the stronger spark and solid voltage from the stepdowns. But by going to an 18volt daily system I get more amperage from the alts the amplifiers draw less and run cooler. So many benefits for the serious minded who want to squeeze every ounce of performance from their daily ride. I'm sorry and I don't mean to be a downer, but I cannot believe that the 18V alone did this. At least not through your explanation of "stronger spark" Reason is, the Coil runs off of 12VDC (13.5 actually), and you are having the 18V stepped down. Stepping it down does not give you the advantage of running the 18V. (I know, you can't run your 12VDC coil off of 18VDC without shortening it's lifespan or affecting it negatively in some way. It may or may not harm it, but lets go with the safe guess) Now if the 18VDC stepdown is supplying a higher Amperage to the coil, then I could entirely see how this (stronger spark) would be possible (however since I do not know the full specifications of your ignition system as well as the amperage supplied before and after I cannot say particularly in your case.) But I would like to point out that perhaps increasing the efficiency of the charging system may have had greater effect with lessening the load on the alternator and reducing drag on the accessory loop. (therefor increasing mileage) Increasing the voltage, will do nothing except limit voltage drops below 12V, which obviously would have the ignition system running optimally at 13.5V. This is good, steady 13.5V provided through the step downs (should) provide clean efficient power to be utilized by the computers and ignition system. However, regardless, low amperage delivery will have a negative impact on the ignition system having full 13.5V or not. I hope this makes sense. I can't really find a better way to explain this. In order for your hypothesis to be correct, several factors must be maintained. -Voltage must remain at optimal values. (obviously easily met.) -Amperage draw must be met or exceeded -Ignition system must be of better than or OEM spec to actually deliver a stronger spark (higher capacitance and charge delivery) because an old coil will not benefit from greater amperage delivery due to its lower than spec amp draw. -Wires and plugs must be capable of benefiting from the "stronger spark" as a resistive plug or wires will not deliver gains from a hotter ignition system. Again, I'm not trying to cause problems or anything. Just delivering my opinion. Nice job on the setup tho. One question, why do just 18V? why not do a full 24V? Edited August 10, 2011 by Mediarocker Quote 2007 Mazda 3s Sport- Custom Short Ram, Vibrant 4-2-1 Header, Trubendz Exhaust, Magnaflow Resonator and XL Muffler, Mazdaspeed Springs, 18" Baccarats with Tigerpaw GTZ 225/40R 18's Awards: MECA Phat Car 1st Place MECA Show n' Tell : 112.5db's on whatever was in my CD changer MECA SQL Stock 1st Place MECA Import Mild 2nd Place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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