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ditto

u want a inline fuse to blow befor the amps fuseing

but i really wonder if a fuse as big as 250-300amps will acually blow if it was to short or just set there n pump hella current threw the cars chassis

why i said this is cause my buddy was working on my friends car and was takeing out her old setup n he found some 0guage just layin in the bottom of her spare tire well wit bare wire touching the metal and he went to under the hood n the 150amp fuse was glowing red but never blew

so i come to think, can someone take some big batteries like a kenetik 2400 or powermaster d3100 and make a dead short like put some 0guage to a fuse block and touch the other end to the battery neg just to see if it will blow a 250-300amp fuse cause thats what a house runs on and i really dont think it will blow unless u got a shit ton of batteries in ur setup

maby steve could try this, i dnt think the battery will blow up cause ive caused a dead short on accident and nothing happined ecept burnt the insolation off the wire

cause u get some damn 0guage wit 300amps flowing threw it without the fuse blowing that shit can cut a car in half lol

Haha I've been in a car when a 300a fuse blew it sounds like a grenade goes off It would be cool if someone with the balls made a YouTube video of fuses at different amps popping...

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2011 BMW 335i

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2002 Acura Tl
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Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

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ditto

u want a inline fuse to blow befor the amps fuseing

but i really wonder if a fuse as big as 250-300amps will acually blow if it was to short or just set there n pump hella current threw the cars chassis

why i said this is cause my buddy was working on my friends car and was takeing out her old setup n he found some 0guage just layin in the bottom of her spare tire well wit bare wire touching the metal and he went to under the hood n the 150amp fuse was glowing red but never blew

so i come to think, can someone take some big batteries like a kenetik 2400 or powermaster d3100 and make a dead short like put some 0guage to a fuse block and touch the other end to the battery neg just to see if it will blow a 250-300amp fuse cause thats what a house runs on and i really dont think it will blow unless u got a shit ton of batteries in ur setup

maby steve could try this, i dnt think the battery will blow up cause ive caused a dead short on accident and nothing happined ecept burnt the insolation off the wire

cause u get some damn 0guage wit 300amps flowing threw it without the fuse blowing that shit can cut a car in half lol

but in my brothers car he has a 150amp fuse and we accidently touched the pos and neg together and it shorted but the fuse didnt blow/pop. lol weird

Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal?

heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked.

i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat

2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604

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Dear god people.

Put it this way, you're wiring should not give any factor as to what fuse you need. AT ALL. If your wire can only handle 300 amps, then you do not put a 300 amp fuse on it. You don't fuse to protect your power wire AT ALL. You fuse to limit how much current your circuit over all can pull. The load being the amplifier, protect the load by fuse, let the wire be just beefy enough to supply the load. First thing's first, your wire has to be able to upkeep with the draw from the amp. If your amp is pulling a certain amount of current, then your wire should be able to supply that amount of current with least possible voltage loss. That means if your amplifier is pulling 100 amps of current through an 8 gauge wire, from a battery that is 25 feet wire distance away, you will have a voltage loss of 1.6v. The wire resistance will be .016 Ohms. You're shooting for better than that.

Lets say now you use a 2 gauge wire. Same 25ft distance of wire, same 100amp draw. Now you have a voltage loss of .3v. That's alot better.

With 0 gauge, .25v loss.

That's just the aspect of using the right wire to feed your amplifiers. When it comes to picking what fuse to add at the battery, it's simple. How much is the amp fused at? Say it has 100 amps of draw. Most likely it has two 50 amp fuses on it. Well best thing is to put a 100 amp fuse at the battery, you don't want over current getting to your amp. If your circuit starts consuming more than what the amplifier can handle, you want the circuit to fail as close to the battery as possible. If your fuse at the battery is the equivalent as the fuse on the amp, then you will be safe, as the one closest to the battery will blow before the amp fuses will.

So what we've just learned is, you might have the correct fuse at your battery, however do you have enough gauge wire to supply your amplifiers? I cant tell you how many times I've ran across an install where the person has a 1000watt amplifier connected to a 10 gauge power wire. People, it's too much resistance. The wire gets hot, the wire either melts the insulation and grounds out, or even burns the wire in half as it were a fuse itself then you have a wire connected directly to your battery floating around just waiting to ground out.

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Dear god people.

Put it this way, you're wiring should not give any factor as to what fuse you need. AT ALL. If your wire can only handle 300 amps, then you do not put a 300 amp fuse on it. You don't fuse to protect your power wire AT ALL. You fuse to limit how much current your circuit over all can pull. The load being the amplifier, protect the load by fuse, let the wire be just beefy enough to supply the load. First thing's first, your wire has to be able to upkeep with the draw from the amp. If your amp is pulling a certain amount of current, then your wire should be able to supply that amount of current with least possible voltage loss. That means if your amplifier is pulling 100 amps of current through an 8 gauge wire, from a battery that is 25 feet wire distance away, you will have a voltage loss of 1.6v. The wire resistance will be .016 Ohms. You're shooting for better than that.

Lets say now you use a 2 gauge wire. Same 25ft distance of wire, same 100amp draw. Now you have a voltage loss of .3v. That's alot better.

With 0 gauge, .25v loss.

That's just the aspect of using the right wire to feed your amplifiers. When it comes to picking what fuse to add at the battery, it's simple. How much is the amp fused at? Say it has 100 amps of draw. Most likely it has two 50 amp fuses on it. Well best thing is to put a 100 amp fuse at the battery, you don't want over current getting to your amp. If your circuit starts consuming more than what the amplifier can handle, you want the circuit to fail as close to the battery as possible. If your fuse at the battery is the equivalent as the fuse on the amp, then you will be safe, as the one closest to the battery will blow before the amp fuses will.

So what we've just learned is, you might have the correct fuse at your battery, however do you have enough gauge wire to supply your amplifiers? I cant tell you how many times I've ran across an install where the person has a 1000watt amplifier connected to a 10 gauge power wire. People, it's too much resistance. The wire gets hot, the wire either melts the insulation and grounds out, or even burns the wire in half as it were a fuse itself then you have a wire connected directly to your battery floating around just waiting to ground out.

well that explains alot thanks man but i wouldnt have asked if i wouldve know what my amp needs lol i dont have the manual and the amp doesnt have any fuses that i can see to see see what size they are. so i was in a :shrug: kinda moment

Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal?

heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked.

i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat

2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604

1j1450.png

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i thought some mclass amps had fuses in the bottom of the amp? i knew the 4ch did but i dunno bout the 2200

here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp

here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car

heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit

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dont see any on the bottom. btw this is a old amp. its like 3 or 4 years old. its the long chrome one with the orange m on it.

Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal?

heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked.

i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat

2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604

1j1450.png

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