Infinitely Baffled The Do-Over. :P

[N00B]

This looks like its gonna be pretty sweet.

[DylanH]

Can you tell me how an IB work?

[onebadmonte]

Today I worked on the baffle spacers and the baffle itself. The baffle is two layers of 3/4" MDF. The subs will be flush mounted, so the first layer of MDF will act as a spacer. The baffle will be spaced back from the seatback sheetmetal 1-3/4" with strips of wood. The strips and baffle will be attached with some 1/4" bolts and some threaded inserts. Well enough of my blabbing here are some pics.

Here is the insert I'm using. This is what you get with IKEA furniture. You can buy them at Home Depot in 4 packs. I recommend ordering through Mc Master Carr. What 5 packs cost at Home Depot you can get a pack of a hundred through Mc Master Carr.

All you do is drill the hole and thread them in with an allen wrench

Viola! Nice threaded hole for a bolt.

Here is one of the baffle spacers installed

Up next is knocking out the center brace, it's too wide. The opening in the car is 40" wide. The baffle spacers over hang an inch to give me a mounting flange for the baffle. That leaves me with 38". I'm going to use an inch wide spacer down the center. After that I'll have 37" exactly what the OD of the 18's measure. Here's the center brace out. Yes I used a dremel.

Here is the new center brace. 1" wide 1/8" thick metal strip. With all the wood strips on it should be plenty rigid.

Here is an up close of my weld job. Flux core wire FTW! I know, I suck. Don't worry my flame suit is thick.

Oh no! My first hiccup. The baffle is too wide to fit in through the rear because it's wider than the shock towers. To make things worse that welded brace is going to need to be removable to get the baffle in and out. Double FAIL!

Calling it quits for today. Tomorrow should be better. LOL!

[onebadmonte]

I ground down the welds and got the center brace out. It's going to be a bolt in piece. I'm test fitting the baffle in and taking measurements. It's going to be a tight fit. Here are some pics.

Here is the baffle in place.

With the baffle spaced so far back there is an interferance with the rear speakers and pods. I relief the baffle in the offending areas.

Here is a side by side with the old baffle. It was fun while it lasted old baffle.

I'm using the same threaded inserts to attach the baffle in vehicle and to mount the subs. 1/4-20s for the baffle and 10-32s for the subs

In addition to the glue I'll be using drywall screw to hold the two baffles together

Here is the finished baffle

I couldn't help it, I just had to fit one in. I'm excited, but I have a ways to go.

Here is a shot from inside the trunk.

Tomorrows a new day. Hopefully I make just as much progress.

[cc_audio]

Moar, what else do you do to the trunk to prepare it? This is like sticking two 18s in a 14cuft+ leaky sealed box that flexes. Would be efficient but output would seem to lacking unless I'm missing something to this IB setup. I know they did an IB setup in the jackhammer car for pimp my ride.

[onebadmonte]

Moar, what else do you do to the trunk to prepare it? This is like sticking two 18s in a 14cuft+ leaky sealed box that flexes. Would be efficient but output would seem to lacking unless I'm missing something to this IB setup. I know they did an IB setup in the jackhammer car for pimp my ride.

Thanks. As far as prepping the trunk, it's a matter of how far your willing to go. The goal is rigidity, and when you've gone as far as you can go, the trunk becomes a sealed box. The major leak is the trunk lid. On my previous setup at 20Hz the hinge side would flap up and down quite a ways. Very surprising. I won't be doing much for that since I need the truck lid to open and close for groceries. :)Having said that, yes this is exactly like sticking two 18s in a 14cuft+ leaky sealed box. Output should be pretty good. The combined SD of the two 18s is 2420cm^2, a single 12 is 480cm^2. I'll be moving some air. Also the IB setup reaches down to the Fs of the sub. In my case it's 22.5Hz, not to mention what cabin gain does for anything below the Fs. Hope this clears things up a bit.

[onebadmonte]

No much to report today. I savored a little bit of family time so the work was light. I notched the baffle corners to clear the rear speakers. Nothing fancy, just manual work. I started off with a dremel, and finished it off with file. Ugh, the dust, luckily I have a respirator.

Here is a full pic.

Here is a close up of the area I clearanced.

I wrapped the baffle today. Last time I used a funky fabric for some contrast. This time I'm going with black leather. Black leather? Well, there's a little story behind this one. I saved this leather from some sofas I used to own. As a mater of fact, these were the first sofas I've ever owned or should say my wife and I ever owned. We bought them when we first moved in together. We brought them with us when we moved from El Paso to San Antonio. They even made with us to our first house. I was bitter sweet to replace them with new ones because of the memories. Now the memories live on with a few new ones.

Here is the beginning

The tricky part is wrapping around the areas I clearance for the rear speakers. I used the 3M stuff that comes in a can. I think it's the 77 line. Any who, here is the area in question.

Here is a closer shot.

The finished product.

Up next the amps. Stay tuned.

[onebadmonte]

I got some work done mounting the amps. This time around I'm going with two US Acoustics USB-2080's

for the mids and highs and two US Acoustics USB-2150's for the subs. Each sub will be getting 450

watts a piece. Last time around I was giving each sub 240 watts. This should definitely make a

difference in the output department. Placing all these amps was a little tricky, but well worth the

wow factor.

Here is what I started with, a 1/4" thick piece of fiber board. I used the truck carpet as a template.

I'm using standard tee-nuts to mount the amps. These are 8-32 tee-nuts.

Here is my high tech install tool.

Here are the amps on the board.

The test fit looks good.

Here is another shot of the test fit.

Here is a pic of the rats nest of power wires.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, the end is near.

[Dr. Johnson]

How are you sealing all of the holes around the baffle as well as the spots between your speakers on the rear deck?

[BJD3]

I want to see the end of the tunnel. HURRY UP! lol

Why not remove the seatbelts?