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Custom High current, low resistance terminals


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the bolt thing is nice for sure, esp how you have it done, the brass lookes nice and performs well,  mainly like the idea for my current install my subs are dual 4 and i change ohm loads when i do spl or if im doing music, so i could do 4 bolts per sub ao i can easily change the ohm load without pulling a sub or anything just crossing or uncrossn a wire via outside the box and still have it look pimp and clean....great idea, even tho im sure its a old trick with a new twist i havent seen it put to use in such a nice fassion untill now  :^

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I don't think it wood be a bad idea to put some sort of thread lock on it tho, May come lose & we wouldn't want that. Lot of pressure & vibration in a sub box, my 2 cents.

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silicone, or wax works, but once you have 1 nut inside the box holding the ring term/washer on the inside portion of the box, and 1 nut outside clamping the bolt to the box, and the 3rd nut holding the outside ring term on, and washers, its Very hard to budge. Brass is soft, so it locks together well.....

And I had No idea there would be this many responses from a little Terminal issue, Iam suprised, I was bored when I typed this up... But I definitly stand by the concept, and love useing them.

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I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy.
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Honestly, gold by itself is a horrible conductor, but if gold is how you want to go, try gold plating copper, thats just about the best conducter you can make. Only reason terminals, ext are gold plated, is  for corrosion resistance, and the copper for the actualy cunduction. Platinum is great, and chrome isnt great, but it works. Reason why I use brass, is because we used bras only bolts for a really highend subwoofer manufacturer I built for in the past, and when you have a $10,000-22,000 for just 1-12" sub and 1000wrms amp, and that company prefered brass over every other material for connecting points from the amp, to the sub, and silver enriched speaker, and sihnal wires, you gotta think of brass pretty highly, but go ahead, grab a volt meter, 3 matching bolts, try small ones, to get a better metering, like 3" long size 6 bolts, test with brass, stainless steel, and standard steel bolts. The brass will hold the lowest resistance. And a size 6 bolt, even that small will still be able to hold 440v, or 10,000 watts across it, before a circuit breaker pops, or amp frys

And yeah, T-nuts is the way to go, epoxy those bad boys in place, and even wax the threads on the bolts, for a frame like a 18"  Id go with 1/4-20 tnuts, or 5/16" before the back side of the t-nut starts gets in the way of mounting the woofer.

so i should use some kind of epoxy to attach it to the wood, and then when you say wax the threads on the bolts, what do you mean? what is the purpose behind waxing?? also what kind of wax?? one comment said to use loctite, is that what you would recommend??:-[

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Yeah, usually the spikes hold in good, I dunno bout the brass inserts, but the tnuts the spikes are cool, but sometimes the spikes bend, or they break away at the wood, in my personal experiences. If I could, Id tnut everything .

sundown.jpg
I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy.
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no offense, and glad you contribute......but this is something ive been doing for 2, almost 3 years now ;)

You are right though, next to gold plated silver, gold plated copper would be the best....although not cheap and im not sure where you would find copper bolts like that.

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copper bolts would be nice, but yeah, where would you get them? I was talking about brass bolts. We used them on a very highend home audio companies speaker boxes, speakers, and amps, as connection points between wires, ect. The best connection is, No connection at all... Solder would be the best way to connect things over bolts all together. Brass because its a soft, very low resistance metal- Meade, I see you have done your boxes with bolts, all I was saying is, that I have been doing bolts thru on boxes for a few years, ever since I worked that speaker manufacturer, and seeing how reliable bolts were over spring loaded terminals. And hell, when you can do brass bolts, useing brass bolts, nutts, and washers, for only $2 (about 4 terminals total)  Hell, I seen someone on ROE useing wing nutts, cant find brass wingnuts, so for the past week, I used wingnuts as a fast connect/disconect over useing deep sockets

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sundown.jpg
I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy.
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interesting... i may try this out if i have some spare bolts from my type rf ring terminals... 100% brass with plat plating :^

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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