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Mechman Alternators

Mechman Alt with adjustable voltage


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Please disregard the picture of the blue external regulator, that is not the harness we are talking about, and will not work on your unit.

Your Oldsmobile uses a special rear housing that does not accept the anodized red adjustable internal regulator. I discussed with you that the voltage set point will be 14.7 volts, which is optimal for the 12 volt AGM batteries that you plan to use. If you absolutely feel it necessary to charge your 12 volt batteries at a higher than recommended voltage, I will send you the voltage adjustment module for FREE. It is simply a 8" long pigtail that plugs inline in between your vehicle's stock harness and the alternator itself.

Nice!! i dont believe i read the voltage it was going to be set at when i sent you a pm but i have so many thousands of emails i go through on a daily basis that i forget small things like that a lot. (imagine if i had to read all the emails you have in your system, id be lost for a week) lol. but if its going to be set at 14.7 then i dont see any need to have to crank the voltage up any more. i will wait and see how low my voltage falls at full tilt with my current amp (for the real current draw, ill put it down from 8 to 2 ohms which last time i did that, i melted my 4 gauge wire lol) and ill see how low the voltage drops. if it stays at like 13 or so then ill be more than satisfied with it and wont need the adjustment module (which i would rather pay for because i feel guilty getting freebies from people)

But let me ask this, lets say for example that at full tilt with your alt you built me that my voltage drops down to like 10.5v (like it does now) and my alt charges at around 14.3v with minimal load. if i buy the external regulator from you and say i crank the power up to like 18v no load (and yes i know it will blow the agms im using) but with a load from my amps it will drop it down to the 14.7 range would that be suggested for things like if i was doing a sound off or something where i am going to be at full tilt for a long time?

I rarely if ever will be at full tilt, when im driving im only at around 3/4, if not half because of how i had to tune it to stop clipping and it draws a ton of power at that level. but im trying to figure out some things (and yes i know my theory of raising the voltage to overcome the power loss is stupid but i figured id ask a alternator pro like you). but thank you for your fast response. i will have to make some mechman decals for my car when i get it installed when it arrives.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Nice!! i dont believe i read the voltage it was going to be set at when i sent you a pm but i have so many thousands of emails i go through on a daily basis that i forget small things like that a lot. (imagine if i had to read all the emails you have in your system, id be lost for a week) lol. but if its going to be set at 14.7 then i dont see any need to have to crank the voltage up any more. i will wait and see how low my voltage falls at full tilt with my current amp (for the real current draw, ill put it down from 8 to 2 ohms which last time i did that, i melted my 4 gauge wire lol) and ill see how low the voltage drops. if it stays at like 13 or so then ill be more than satisfied with it and wont need the adjustment module (which i would rather pay for because i feel guilty getting freebies from people)

But let me ask this, lets say for example that at full tilt with your alt you built me that my voltage drops down to like 10.5v (like it does now) and my alt charges at around 14.3v with minimal load. if i buy the external regulator from you and say i crank the power up to like 18v no load (and yes i know it will blow the agms im using) but with a load from my amps it will drop it down to the 14.7 range would that be suggested for things like if i was doing a sound off or something where i am going to be at full tilt for a long time?

I rarely if ever will be at full tilt, when im driving im only at around 3/4, if not half because of how i had to tune it to stop clipping and it draws a ton of power at that level. but im trying to figure out some things (and yes i know my theory of raising the voltage to overcome the power loss is stupid but i figured id ask a alternator pro like you). but thank you for your fast response. i will have to make some mechman decals for my car when i get it installed when it arrives.

Again, just to clarify- we would not be sending you an external regulator. It is simply and adjustment module that plugs into the alternator and manipulates the voltage set point of the regulator.

Increasing the voltage to 18 volts on a 12 volt battery will not reduce the voltage drop very much. Once you begin using more current that the alternator can produce, the voltage will still fall rapidly, almost to the same point as if your base charging voltage was 14.7. If you are looking for less voltage drop at full tilt, I would recommend going to 14 volt batteries. The optimum charging voltage for these batteries is 16.5 volts, resting battery voltage is 15.1 volts. This is the main reason why we offer the voltage adjustment harness- for people looking to upgrade to 14 volt batteries.

For comparison's sake- I run 6000 watts RMS off of (2) D1400 14 volt batteries and a single 150 amp MechMan alternator, and I never fall below 14.5 volts, unless I play for a REALLY long time. (longer than my voicecoils can take, anyway)

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yea thats how i figured it would be is a plug in module for it, im going to wait and see how low your alt goes at full tilt (i doubt its going to be huge) but if it gets extremely low then ill think of doing a 14v upgrade. ill let you know when it comes in the mail and ill see how it performs. thank you for everything, you are definitely one company that i hope stays in business for a long time because of your customer service. i would rate you as a 100% customer satisfaction and that you even go above and beyond for all the help you give. Just dont disappear like Dominic did!! lol.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Ok so i finally found time to put in the alternator you built me today and i must say, DAMN!!!! you have built me one extremely high quality alternator!!!! i love it, it fits like a glove and isnt too loud for being high output and plus it charges everything without breaking a sweat. Instead of my 12.8 volts of power while running, now i have 13.89 volts with just the engine on and the radio and accessories turned off, with the accessories turned on (fans up high, all lights on (with high beams) radio up all the way, rear defroster) i have it go down to 13.78 volts. thats pretty damn impressive if you ask me. But the only thing im wondering is why im not getting 14.7 volts out of my alternator, even when its hot it doesnt get above 13.98. theoretically its only like a volt of power that im not getting but do you think that its that much to worry about? (ps. im not about to send back this alternator just to have it looked at since it charges in a second) lol.

Im still speechless with the quality of your alternator and design that went into it. It cools, performs, and looks like a champ. at first i thought id have to call you up and get mad because the alternator was a little deeper than the stock one and it sits against the plenum of my engine but i dont care since its not a ton of pressure on it. But thanks again for everything. Right now i rate your company at 1000000000% customer satisfaction.

Now i have to find somebody to make me a mechman decal and start getting you some business for your quality products.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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What condition are your batteries in? What wiring are you using?

Assuming the alternator is setup correctly, the batteries or wiring could be holding it down.

Is the voltmeter placed on the alt output post, or the battery post? I would start with a known good DMM and measure output at the alt.

Thumbs up for Mechman. Great prices and great customer service!

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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What condition are your batteries in? What wiring are you using?

Assuming the alternator is setup correctly, the batteries or wiring could be holding it down.

Is the voltmeter placed on the alt output post, or the battery post? I would start with a known good DMM and measure output at the alt.

Thumbs up for Mechman. Great prices and great customer service!

the batt i have in my engine is like 5 months old. (xs power ftw)

and the dmm was placed on the charge post of the alt but i think you are right about it holding back because its only temporarily hooked up with the stock wires, next nice day (probably tomorrow) ill do the big 3 in my engine. (all 0 gauge)

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Be careful running the stock charge cable on a 250 amp alternator- You could easily burn the unit up, or burn up the charge wire or a stock chassis ground that way. It is absolutely necessary to a dedicated zero gauge positive AND negative cable straight from the alternator to the terminals of the battery. That will also help out with your voltage results.

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Be careful running the stock charge cable on a 250 amp alternator- You could easily burn the unit up, or burn up the charge wire or a stock chassis ground that way. It is absolutely necessary to a dedicated zero gauge positive AND negative cable straight from the alternator to the terminals of the battery. That will also help out with your voltage results.

yes, i know it must be all 0 gauge throughout but i ran out of time yesterday to do it so i then just wrapped everything up and today im putting all the wires for the big three on the alt and batt and see how much that improves. but overall i am very very impressed with your alternator. you definitally sold me a great product.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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ok, so i have a big problem. when my engine speed gets to 2000 and above the power instantly drops from charging at 14.2 volts (peak) and drops down to around 11 volts and then my low battery light illuminates on the dashboard. wtf is with that? i upgraded everything to 0 gauge in the engine to match the wire going to my amplifier and when i tested the alternator last night when i put it in it was hooked up with just the stock wires from GM. what can cause this? i did notice that the alternator is VERY VERY hot on the casing which is odd because even with no load it still gets hot fast. the voltage never exceeds 14.2 and when i crank my radio up to the max it only drops to 13.6 volts after i did the big 3. do you think that something could be broken on the alternator somehow? or is it something more severe

again, from 2000 rpm and above the battery light comes on and i get 11 volts of power from 14.2. if i rev the engine higher it gets worse and the voltage at 4000 rpm gets to 10.4. but if i take my foot of the gas and let the engine slow back down to idle or 1000 or less, it will charge back up to 14.2 just fine.

Please help me!!

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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to add onto this... when the engine is at 2000 or more rpm while the engine is hot the belt starts to squeal and i cant pinpoint where its squealing at on the belt loom but it is a 40 inch belt and its very tight on my engine as well as the pulley. the lights in my car at 2k rpm will start to flicker a little bit and then as i give it more speed it will flicker even more severely and then at 2500 the battery voltage light comes on and my lights are very dim and the belt is squealing from 2500 rpm and above. if i drop the speed down below 2000 the belt squeals at random but the pulley does not move at all when it occurs and then the lights will brighten up and the voltage will be back where its supposed to charge at.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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