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As the title suggests: What are the pros and cons of a bigger / smaller sub box? I know that in a ported box, bigger = more effecient, but smaller = more power before reaching excursion limits.

Does the still apply to sealed boxes? Will it affect frequency roll off in any way?

And one more question: Even though a sub may not be recommended for a sealed box, could I still do it? I like the tight feel of a sealed box more, but my favorite sub that I have in my current box is only recommended for a ported box.

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I would go with a ported box, plus the sub says to do so. And it's good to have a big ported box but don't go too big or else your sub will sound like ass. And yes you could put it in a sealed box but it will shorten the life of your sub

Sub: 15" Asendant Audio Mayhem

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Speaker Amp: Rockford Fosgate Prime 300.4

Wiring: Knukonceptz Kollossus Fleks 0 Gauge(sub)

Knukonceptz Kollossus Fleks 4 Gauge (speakers)

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the size of the box mostly plats with the pressure inside the box. small box = more pressure. the pressure is a part of the speakers suspension. thats why you can put more power to a sub in a smaller box. subs designed for ported boxes already have a stiff suspension and dont perform well in sealed boxes. while subs that can work well in sealed boxes have very loose suspension.

you could go with a small ported box tuned to about 32hz and still get a nice punchy sound.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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bigger box less power smaller box more power to get loud

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only time i would build a smaller box is if i'm running more power to my subs than they're used to handling (do that with a bigger box and it'll blow sooner)

its not that itll blow, itll tear itself apart. if the coil goes out in a large box its more likely that the coil slammed into the bottom plate hard enough to bend something.

skullz - im going off of my logic for that one, not fact. im pretty sure its correct but i could easily be wrong.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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How about for efficiency's sake? Lets just assume same sub, same power to the speaker, etc... Would a smaller or louder box get louder? Would a different size box affect high / low frequency response?

Again, assuming it is a sealed box. I know about it with ported, but not with sealed.

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Playing with port area and tuning can also allow you to run more than rated power in a larger box without have mechanical problems i.e. Bottoming out...

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

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Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

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My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

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My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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Only variable being the sealed enclosure size, the larger box would have a lower F3 than the smaller one.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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