Jump to content
XS Power

battery isolators, do I need one??


Recommended Posts

I was wondering if I could get a reply from nathan. I have a D3100 in the back and a d3400 in the front. I have read that having different size batteries can shorten the life of them, because when you turn off the car they can try and take current from each other to equalize. I was was just wondering if it would be recommended to isolate them, I have read the post above and from what I can see I do not, but I just want to make sure that this is 100% as i don't want 500 dollar in batteries to go down the drain, lol, within a couple years. I have a 130 stock alternator now, I was looking at a mechman 340 amp one possibly in the future, but I don't think I want this van forever, and it would be hard to sell that alternator afterwards, ha ha

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do not recommend isolators in any car audio install, unless you are going to be running the system with the vehicle off and just pulling from the battery bank. Even then it is not necessary. Is it going to hurt running one...... No not really. You will drop a little voltage going through the isolator and it will cost some $$$, but if that is ok with you then run one.

As far as your application it will not hurt the batteries at all to not use an isolator. Different sizes of the same batteries doesn't matter and will not hurt the batteries. There are many installs where you can only get a D1200 under the hood, but you can load up the D3100 in the back. It will not hurt the D1200 to do it like that.

  • Like (+1 Rep) 2

RealPower800x135_zps58408f90.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do not recommend isolators in any car audio install, unless you are going to be running the system with the vehicle off and just pulling from the battery bank. Even then it is not necessary. Is it going to hurt running one...... No not really. You will drop a little voltage going through the isolator and it will cost some $$, but if that is ok with you then run one.

As far as your application it will not hurt the batteries at all to not use an isolator. Different sizes of the same batteries doesn't matter and will not hurt the batteries. There are many installs where you can only get a D1200 under the hood, but you can load up the D3100 in the back. It will not hurt the D1200 to do it like that.

Thanks, just what I was looking for!! :P

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok so I have a brand new 3 month old Everstart Maxx 75N up front and I'm going to put two XS D1200 in the back.

My question is do I need a battery isolator?

And my other question is do I hook my 1/0 wire to the front battery or to the alternator?

No isolator needed. You run 1/0 from your alt to your front batt and then from that front batt to the rear batts.

I totally agree with this response Isolators just subtract a well needed battery from the equation

2002 Mitsubishi Lancer

3-18" Mayhem Subs

Pioneer AVH-6300BT

1-10K DC Audio Amplifier

1-5K DC Audio Amplifier

3-Pioneer GM-D9500

6-Kinetik HC2400

2-XS Power D3100

1-Kinetik HC1400

Ohio Gen 160-180 amp HO Alternator

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for clearing that up Nathan, I was planning on adding a secondary battery as well but the guy at the battery shop told me I'd need an isolator too. This helps alot.

Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03

CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6

Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I wish I would have found this thread sooner. I got one b/c I thought I needed it. They should say on them: Not intended for car audio use. 4x4 or off road use only!

I am in the middle of a build, I just got all my electrical finished, only to see the rear battery not seem to charge. Although, it is charging, just barely. When running, the front battery is at 14.1 and the rear is 12.8 - That shit just aint gettin it!

I was told that adding a voltage regulator could fix this issue, but I aint spending anymore on it, I'm just gonna do away with the isolator.

185793_183318805037453_100000780034606_346236_6073919_n.jpg

If anyone needs one, I have an ALMOST new Stinger 200 amp relay/isolator for sale. I just paid over $60 for it, I'll take $40, plus 10 to ship it! Still have original package, only installed for 24 hrs.

Edited by Purplehaze


Kickin' Cruiser

Seller Feedback


Stage 3
Dash, Door Panels,
4th Order wall 4 - 15's
on a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K's


Solo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Hey everyone. I really need help! I have a yellow top battery in the engine bay of my 2009 Pontiac G6. I have a kinetik HC1200 to put in the trunk. I have 1/0 awg wire running from the front battery back to my truck (straight to my amp right now) but when I first got the kinetik battery I installed it linking the 1/0 awg wire from front battery to back battery with a fuse 8" from each battery. And grounded the kinetik battery to the chassis. But for some reason it was making my yellow top battery swell... I replaced the yellow top 3 times before I have up and took the kinetik out. Y does my yellow top swell and how can I fix it?! Please help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey everyone. I really need help! I have a yellow top battery in the engine bay of my 2009 Pontiac G6. I have a kinetik HC1200 to put in the trunk. I have 1/0 awg wire running from the front battery back to my truck (straight to my amp right now) but when I first got the kinetik battery I installed it linking the 1/0 awg wire from front battery to back battery with a fuse 8" from each battery. And grounded the kinetik battery to the chassis. But for some reason it was making my yellow top battery swell... I replaced the yellow top 3 times before I have up and took the kinetik out. Y does my yellow top swell and how can I fix it?! Please help!

Have you done the big 3? Where are you grounded at? Did you remove any stock wires from your system if you did the big 3. Are you grounds good? What voltage is the Y.T resting at?

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/


th_140x100square.jpgMechman_140x100px.JPGDCHome.jpgI

image_url-76414-1423274612_thumb.jpgimage_url-76414-1423320284_thumb.jpg

Pioneer P99RS
Ampere 3800
2-Ampere 125/4
4-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids
4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer

2-5.25 Satori Mids
2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars
2-Hertz Silk tweeters
DC Audio Level 5/12
Skyhigh Wire
Mechman 320
XS Power D3100

MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I do not recommend isolators in any car audio install, unless you are going to be running the system with the vehicle off and just pulling from the battery bank. Even then it is not necessary. Is it going to hurt running one...... No not really. You will drop a little voltage going through the isolator and it will cost some $$$, but if that is ok with you then run one.

As far as your application it will not hurt the batteries at all to not use an isolator. Different sizes of the same batteries doesn't matter and will not hurt the batteries. There are many installs where you can only get a D1200 under the hood, but you can load up the D3100 in the back. It will not hurt the D1200 to do it like that.

Ok so I've read some of this thread and I'm planning on adding a second battery has a question I read online that both batterys should be of the same age what does that actually mean I have a yellow top main battery and I'm planning on putting in a kintek 2400 battery for secondary it is not new buying from somebody is that going to be a problem? Thanks for the help
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 247 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...