Namosh Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 I want to say something about this shortest ground possible I keep hearing. Yes, the shorter the electrical path, the less resistance...but grounding to the frame is not creating a worm hole that magically jumps to the front battery. All it is doing is using the frame as a substitute for a ground wire. It is still a long run to the front of the vehicle....In fact, a dedicated run of wire could be slightly shorter than the path that the electricity would take through the frame. My Ram Quad Cab Blow-through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecityxignites Posted January 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 I'm only going to be running an aq1200d 2001 chevy cavalier Rebuild in progress what happens when your CD player skips and you accidentally drop a 22 hz sine bomb at an unholy volume on 7-8 year old subs? Mechanical failure floppy sub knockage on at least 2. well...as i see the level 6 is compared to a lamborghini.....but a corvette? i was thinking more like a chevy volt. its cute and new and "hip", but i would just rather stick my dick in a blender......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 Damnit people...for you, no. If thats what works for you then keep on doing it. But question, where the fuck do you think your battery gets its ground from? But like I said, if this works for you, then keep on doing it. But for someone running 1, maybe 2 subs on an amp that requires 4ga wire, why would he even waste his money ont he extra wire, when there will be an undetectable difference between the two? And my two batteries in the rear are grounded straight to the frame and then to a buss bar, and this setup has been working great for me. Its not a waste of time nor money...... First of all the person is learning how to do it properly! which is why this forums even exists, to help others with questions. Secondly, not to mention at some point an audio enthusiast will never be happy with that they have now, and will upgrade shortly. So if they went and started buying some some new wire now to have it done for when they buy a new amp, it will be 1 less thing to worry about. All I know is if I went to a shop to have my stereo installed, and they grounded it to a seatbelt bolt, or used self tappers to secure my ground to some thin sheet metal I would be 1 pissed off person, and would know that the shop does hack job installs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakerman Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 I'm only going to be running an aq1200d If it were me, I'd run a ground to the frame. I might would step it up a little higher than 4ga, I'd use 1/0 with a reducer, but I am overly prepared. I had 1/0 to an alpine mrp-850, which is unnecesarry, but it didn't hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 I'm only going to be running an aq1200d If it were me, I'd run a ground to the frame. Again, bad advice! its a 2001 caviler, there is no "FRAME" on that car, its unibody... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 Unibody cars don't have frames Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakerman Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 All I know is if I went to a shop to have my stereo installed, and they grounded it to a seatbelt bolt, or used self tappers to secure my ground to some thin sheet metal I would be 1 pissed off person, and would know that the shop does hack job installs... I would never in my life suggest grounding it to a seatbelt bolt or self tappers. If a shop did this I would flip the fuck out. But puttin a ring connector on the end of the wire, drilling a hole in the frame or finding a pre-existing hole, running a bolt throught the ring connector and the frame, and putting a lockwasher and nut on the opposite side is acceptable to me for a 1200w setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakerman Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 Again, bad advice! its a 2001 caviler, there is no "FRAME" on that car, its unibody... Ewwww...damn. True on that one. Well, on a unibody, battery would be best bet. Otherwise, i'd do the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpydonut Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 So the body ground or strut will be perfectly fine for you, as I said in the first place. Not trying to say I know everything because I sure don't, but all the people on here that say they have 20k and do 150 whatever, obviously you're not giving him info relative to his needs so why even chime in with insults and what nots anyways? Not everyone is shooting for beast ground pounding systems, so obviously what you did may be right for you, but not everyone. 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Pioneer DEH5100-UB 2 - P1S412 4 - Alpine SRS-600 Alpine MRP-M500 Monster 8g power/ground-1/0 Big 3 Soon to come: 2 - T1D212 RF T1500.1bdCP RF T500.4bd Mechman 220 amp alt Kinetik KHC1800 Hit me up if you need help with anything in the Tulsa Area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 Some interesting info in here 1. self tappers are typically not very good at staying screwed in. A nut and bolt fixes this. 2. Every wire in your car should be as short as possible be it ground, power, or signal. a. the reason you hear this in reference to a ground is in a typical installation the ground is the wire + the chassis of the car. 3. Every ground in your car goes back to the - of the battery (technically it comes FROM the - of the battery, but that is a whole different topic) 4. What you are trying to do makes more of a difference in what kind of ground to use. There is no reason to run a cable to your battery if a single 4g is enough wire to handle your systems current demands. However, if you are trying to charge a bank of batteries (or a high amount of wattage) then the chassis may not provide a good enough ground for you. The chassis is a very convenient way for car manufacturers to connect the - part of the car's electrical system. The metal used in a car chassis is not designed to be an efficient high power handling electrical system. IT can work, but if you have hundreds or thousands of amps of current draw, the chassis might not keep up. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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