lt1jerome
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Posts posted by lt1jerome
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All I know is that I ordered the 320 with external regulator and the instructions said to remove the factory connector from the stock alt and leave it off and intall the new connector that is wired to the regulator. By doing that the battery light stays on and I get a "service warning on the dash but everything seems to be working fine. Hope I answered your question, Im still a NOOB at this so im learning as I go.
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Ive called and emailed the last few days but no response. Just seeing if their was a good alternative people have been using
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Who do you guys recommend for a dual alt bracket for a 5.3L chevy avalanche. I'm currently running a mechman 320 with adjustable regulator and have plans for another.
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And I have a Kenwood 9990hd headunit, Crescendo 1100.4 and two Crescendo 3500's
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I have had my DD-1 for awhile now and have used it to set my current head unit and sub amp in my old setup. Back then the head unit distorted at 28 of 35. Now I have new amps and the same head unit, Once I had it all installed I started at the head to find max distorted volume. I had issues with that but figured it out(all settings where flat like there supposed to be but I had to turn up the sub level to get the signal) I ended up not having any distortion at max volume on track 1 or 2 so cool. Then I do my 4 channel...worked perfect. Now this is where Im having trouble again. I had all settings on the amp as the manual suggest and on track 7 max volume and as i turn up the gain I get signal light then soon after the distort then 40hz light. So then I tried starting at a low volume with gain all the way down then turn up the volume. All the lights stayed off til I got to vol 21 the I got a signal, distort, 40hz.
I figure its gotta be a head unit setting i over looked or I need to re check my headunit. Thanks for any help.
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Sweet, Thanks Alot for the info.
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I'm in the process of deadening my doors but before I put the panels back on I wanna make sure its done properly. I have the outside door skin covered and about 50% of the inner skin covered. Should I cover up the openings in the inner door skin to seal it up? I have two 6.5's and a tweeter in each door. Thanks for any advice.
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4 lvl 6's 18inch to 39560
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So how much electrical do you think it would take? And to alero, thanks for the info.
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Hope so...I have another XS power D3100 and a mechman alt on the way.
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What do i need and how do i wire two Crescendo 3500's strapped together? I realize i need the single rca type strap cable to link them together and I assume i will need rca's coming from the output of the primary to the input ofthe secondary amp? Amp ground to secondary battery ground and amp positive to secondary battery positive. As far as speaker wiring Im lost. Thanks for any input.
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I sure will, the only plan i have so far is to have the amps and batteries in the bed once i fix the leaking problem. Running all the zero gauge under the truck and up through the factory wholes in the bed. Port will either be in the middle or behind the driver, i need to talk to some people with more experience on that matter. Gonna run xs power batts and mechman alts.
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Yeah screw it, I figured to get the numbers I really want a wall is what its gonna take. Ive looked on multiple forums and I still havent seen a walled avy so I may be the first. I havent offically started the build yet so no build log. I wanna see what numbers i can pull from my current box when i strap the next amp to it before I move on to the wall. I still have alot of research to do before i start.
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Im in the Navy Seabees down here in Mississippi. I just got back into car audio a few months ago and have slowly started building and modifing my set up. I started out with one Digital Designs 9515 on a crescendo 3500 in a ported box that was in the bed firing into the cab but that wasnt loud enough so I got another 9515 in a sixth order that im pretty happy with (145.1 on the term lab). In the next few weeks im getting another 3500 to put on them strapped. That will be my setup for the next few months until I plan my wall for four or six of the 9515's.
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I can respect that.
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Thanks for all the info guys. And to real96ss, yeah i would love to have them do my build but I dont live there anymore do to being in the military so looks like i may just post up my dimensions and goals for my Avalanche and see what kind of feedback I get.
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As the title suggests....If given my dimensions and vehical info can you provide a google sketch up of the design? Im originally from salisbury and love the builds you guys have done so it would be great to have you guys help with my build.
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Most of the time I Just use titebond 3 wood glue to assemble my box. And for securing the sub I use t-nuts. I've never had issues with either.
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Hell yeah on the crescendo.....great amps and customer service.
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So definitely some sort of bolt rather then screws.
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The subs will be in a bandpass box so I need to get it right the first time.
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Just as the topic says, what kind of fasteners do you guys use to secure subs to the box? Ive used t-nuts for years but ive always had to make the hole larger in the sub frame to accomadate the larger screw and id rather not do that this time around. Id like to use just screws but not sure what type of thread is best.
5.3L Chevy dual bracket?
in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
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No response yet. I just tried to call and sent an email to the above address but it came back as an invalid address so I just sent another email to the company address. I did see a bracket on DC's website for 289.00