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  1. Yesterday
  2. Insane Excursion😳Pushing a cheap sub 🔊 to the absolute max⚡️trying to send it
  3. Insane Excursion😳Pushing a cheap sub 🔊 to the absolute max⚡️trying to send it
  4. Last week
  5. Hey Everyone! I wanted to know if someone could take time out of their day for me to design a sub enclosure for the upper trunk of my 2010 Crown Victoria I have a single Model # KICKER 48CWR122 = KICKER COMP R DVC 2 Ohm Rms 500W Max 1000w. Until I buy the Amp I really want, Kicker KEY 500.1, in place of it I am using a Kicker CX 400.1 for now. If anyone is familiar with the upper deck where the speakers are mounted, there is a factory hole for their factory sub, which I don't believe was even offered for a Crown Vic, but yes, for Grand Marquis, and Town Car. So I'm wanting the sub enclosure to to sit at the upper section of the trunk area facing up and have a port or sealed (which ever you think would sound best) right at the factory hole, so the bass will be forced into the cabin area of the car. There's nothing I dislike most when, somebody thinks they have a clean system with Subs, but have mad trunk rattle or the license plate frame vibrating as well. Sorry, if I come off as a crude guy, but it seriously makes me laugh. Plus, the sub bass is meant for us to hear and not ruin the sound from a few minute fix or longer, making sure the bass fires into the cabin area and not the trunk for everyone to hear. Trunk, doors, deck lid will be sound proof of course. In my 03 Crown Vic, I have a port that comes right thru the center arm rest that folds down in the back seat, but my 2010 has a complete 03 Mercury Marauder interior costing $1500, and I don't exactly want to cut it up. With all that said, here are the dimensions available for the enclosure: D1 = 17" D2 = 21" W = 24" H = 11 1/2" The port doesn't have to protrude past the surface of the enclosure face, but if it can, then the factory hole measures 7 1/2" W x 6 1/4 D in relation to the enclosure dimensions. If you should have any questions for me, please ask away. Thanks in advance, Jason p.s. the last 2 pics are from my 03
  6. found the sweet spot. 2.5, 52cuin @ 31hz ( i like lower tuning, 35 probably be fine also, same port area is low spec of the calculator i use). on the aak4k @.5 the volume is about as big as id go as it seems the sub is about at the limits of its xmax.
  7. Sounds good , im going the same route but idk what specs to build my box to , sub specs are 35 hz and 31 of port area
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  10. Hi everyone im new to sub enclosure building, could people please help with advice and even plans if possible for a build. I have a DD715d2 off a t15001bd in a toyota corolla hatch. im looking to get as close to to 5cf as possible but looks like 4.7ish is all i can fit. My maximum dimensions are 985mm wide, 440mm deep and 400mm high. Im looking for a ported box that can put out the most boom.. Thankyou to anyone who can help. This is what i was thinking 4.73 in mm.pdf
  11. Check out these two to make your mind on what to do:
  12. New 370 Amp⚡️ Mechman Elite Series high output alternator solves annoying #ford belt wrap issues!
  13. New 370 Amp⚡️ Mechman Elite Series high output alternator solves annoying #ford belt wrap issues!
  14. Hello everyone, I plan on doing a build in Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8, this comes stock with a 130a alternator. I posted a similar question on the diyaudio forms and wanted more opinions. The build I plan on doing will roughly come out to 3600w rms. One amp doing 400, another doing 220, and the mono block using 2500-3000. It was recommended by others that I go the route of installing two AGM batteries (one starter and the other an xs 750) before considering an alternator upgrade. I was looking to see what others opinions were, if you think this would satisfy the system or if I should just get an upgraded alternator and agm starter battery. Any insight is appreciated, thank you. P.S. The music I listen to is hip-hop and bass-heavy music, I wont be listening full blast all the time, but I would like to crank it every now and then and not worry.
  15. I did not go the LOC route. I have a helix Dsp with high level input. And yes that was the only issue I had. We even adjusted the internal resistance of the DSP. Otherwise it would have been perfect im definitely lucky on having an easier time to get an aftermarket headunit with trim plate
  16. Hey everyone. Looking for some tips on making a box for my f150. Subs are 2 rage xl 10s This will be an underseat box with subs facing forward and port to the side. I have about a 2.75" seat lift and have built a few boxes for it in the past from 4 6 1/2s to dual 8s but this will be my 1st attempt at dual 10s Powered off a sundown salt 3 @ 1ohm Outside max dimensions of the box are 54.5 length 15.5 width 12.75 front face 9 back face This gives me 4.03 cubic feet gross volume Past boxes have all been slot ported but to save on internal volume I was thinking of trying an aero port. B2 lists 1.7 cubic feet as their ported box size for these and I'm wanting to get there or at least close. So my main concern is getting the proper aero port. My research leads me to believe that I should be looking at 1 6" aero port around 16.8" long to get me in the low 30's (32hz) can anyone confirm that? So how I see this is a 6" aero port has a displacement of .28 cubic feet+ sub displacement of .18 cubic feet per sub puts me at .64 total displacement. 4.03-.64=3.39 cubes net which puts it just under 1.7 per driver. Just looking for any mistakes I made and whether or not a 6" port is suitable. Thanks for any help. Reply Quote 1 - 1 of 1 Posts Write your reply... Remove formatting BoldItalicUnderline Text colorFont size AttachmentInsert linkInsert imageGallery embedSmiliesInsert AlignmentListInsert table UndoRedo DraftsToggle BB code Quotes(1)PreviewPost reply Related Threads ? ? ? ? ? Technical & Advanced Car Audio Discussion Home About Us Terms of Use Privacy Policy Help Business Directory Contact Us Grow Your Business RSS When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission, which supports our community. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo. VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada
  17. I had seen that info about the head unit sensing the ohm load from the speaker. Most of the LOC PRO units from Audiocontrol have an ohm selector switch that will feed that info back to the head unit. Hopefully that will fix that issue. Did you use an LOC with that feature? I've even heard of in line resistor type for stock plug ins. Was that the only issue you had going the high level input route? I'd love to find something that would allow me to use RCAs straight from the head unit. I haven't seen anyone replace the HU from my vehicle or the like anywhere online. Everything I've read or watched says aftermarket units for my car is next to impossible with the NAV, climate, etc integration. It's a very weird shape as well so nothing from a normal kit would work.
  18. There is a rule of thumb you can use... Iv used this rule of thumb for a while and ran as much as 24kw. You will see in the real world you can get away with doing different, but as a starting point, it works. 100a of alternator for every 2000w, so you are good there, 300a of alt for 6000w. 100ah of battery for every 2000w, so you want to shoot for a good manufactured battery and about 300ah.
  19. I wanted to follow this. My wife's is300 was doing this but only with "intelligent" Amps for some reason.
  20. I have a VW Golf (2017). It has the basic entertainment system. I wanted to go with a high level to my DSP. I had nothing but problems going that route. The VW head unit is looking for a specific resistance at the speakers. I was constantly getting distortion coming in and out depending on the recording and song (It would happen multiple times through a song). This happened on multiple music platforms. It didn't matter how we set the headunit eq or volume at. If it was flat, below flat, frequencies turned down or up. It always came back to distorting at some point. I did get the work completed through a reputable shop and was thankful that all the diagnosis did not cost me anything. There is a unit that can be installed that integrates the VW head unit and has RCA outputs (I don't remember what it is) Ultimately I had went to the aftermarket headunit. Zero issues since.
  21. Man after doing some research I was going to go the DSP route but I think I want to keep it a bit less tech for now. I don't have a laptop, only a desktop, so it would be one more thing I would need. It sounds awesome but i dont think Im ready for that yet. I've been looking into using 9 of the 10 speaker system for amplifiers. The 4 door tweeters and 4 mids with sub. I'd like to keep the front center channel playing from the stock amp if possible. The prob I have currently is not knowing exactly how the high level input signal is tapped into. I've never had to use speaker level inputs let alone with a stock integrated amp. I'm trying to plan what parts I need but I need to understand this better. I still want to retain all the stock chimes and alert/alarm noises but don't want all that coming thru the sub etc at same volume. Would I cut any of the existing speaker wires or just splice into them and where would I do that at? The videos and diagrams I've seen are pretty contradictory. If I'm replacing all the speakers and running wire from my amps, will that affect the radio in sensing that there isn't a speaker hooked up anymore? I'm guessing I cut/splice into the speaker wires before they go into the the stock amp to get the speaker input? Would I leave the one center front channel speaker wire hooked up the the factory amp and cut the others for the LOC? Or leave them all connected to the amp and just splice into the wires? Is this the best place to get the signal? I have no idea what's going on there. I'm stuck for now. From that point I feel like I have a better understanding of what's going on. I was looking at using several pieces from AudioControl like an LC8i for all 8 mids and tweets. Then a LC2i PRO for the sub channel. That would easily place all nine channels. Then from there I'd use Y connectors on both mids and tweets channels from the LC8i to run to something like a LC7i PRO or a DQ-61, etc. Ultimately after that I'd like to use and EQX or some kind of EQ or EQ/crossover combo if possible. Then also toss in the Epicenter Micro. Not sure what order all of it goes in but i think at least it's gotta start with the LOC. My new Mechman 370 amp billet alternator got here today. I will be concentrating on running the big 3, installing the new alt, and running several 1/0ga power runs to the rear while I plan the components. I think I have enuf for about 3 runs, maybe 4. I'd like to use all that I have left from a 50ft spool I bought years ago. I will get a XS Power D4800 battery for under the hood very soon. I will also get the charger to make sure I install it at full power. I'm not getting it yet but I'd like to get a secondary battery like a D3100. After I get the main electrical done with main battery, I will decide what secondary battery to use while beginning to order the OEM integration parts. That would prob be all I'd ever need for that vehicle. Eventually I will mess around and get a larger sub amp/sub to see what it can do so the extra power will come in handy.
  22. Earlier
  23. Hello all, I’m looking to build a custom wedge style box for 1 - 12” kicker L7S dvc2. It’s goin in a 2011 Chevy Colorado ext cab so space is limited hence the wedge design. I want to tune it to 30hz and either a slot or aero port would be fine with me, here is a design I started with a slot port but idk if this will work. Any ideas/advice would be appreciated
  24. What is the hertz for the new song Carnival by Kayne West,Rich the kid? also anyone have any song list with hertz listed by them as well?
  25. Assuming we're talking lithium. I've installed a 12 cell bank of yinlong cells in a customer car running around 5kWRMS of bass and 1kW of mids/highs, with a HO alt, voltage is stable, no issues whatsoever, I'd say start with a 6 Cell and see if your voltage and power is fine, if not add 6 more. I'd like to see more opinions from others on this forum if they have the time to give an insight.
  26. Im planning to upgrade my car audio system to about 6k rms. I have the big 3 kit installed, planning on getting a 320 amp alternator. I dont know how many AH in batteries I need for this build. Can anyone help me with the calculations?
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