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  1. Today
  2. Scotnemily
    The speakers came in today. I haven’t got to test them yet, but everything looks new just repackaged. They look impressive and they seem to be made very well. Now I just want to hear them
  3. Joshdashef
    Try this https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE
  4. Kyblack76
    Wired at 2 ohm nominal, your reactive load is shit, aka not much at all. Where I dont really trust "a dude rebuilding a alt to "put out the max" , your draw is wicked low,... really. That board at 2ohm nominal, isnt pulling much... At 2ohm, on a 1500 board, I'd run stock alt, and just replace the battery with the largest I could fit & be done, and put the money else where. Also, when you build for nothing but full rpm out put, you do lose at idle. All alts can suffer from that, from any maker. Get a decent full rpm load, and good idle, .. or idle suffers but higher rpm smashes. But, for what you got goin on, just run it. Holding battery rest and even higher like your doing (you aren't seeing 12s or 11s) dont sweat it... play it
  5. Blast12345
    Unfortunately I don’t have other head units at my immediate disposal . I think my dad has some lying around I could try. I plugged my phone into the RCA up near the head unit - but to my surprise I hear the problem! I suppose that rules out the head unit. It is quite strange that without anything connected to the RCAs - no noise. With mute plugs/dead short RCA - no noise. With my 3.5mm to RCA hooked up - with or without phone - noise. I’m going to begrudgingly remove the rear seat and try my phone directly plugged into the amp. If it still makes noise I’m going to try removing the sub amp from the system.
  6. Mike4068
    Thanks for the diagram. Although I have not personally had issues using the stock hu ground, it is not usually recommended. I also had to go around to all the factory ground points and grind down to bare metal. They were all painted, I don't know how anything worked before that but it made a huge difference. You could try grounding to your frame instead of that long 2awg run. The theory is that the huge mass of the frame will have less resistance than the small 2awg wire. There are other things that can be done but come with drawbacks so I'd try this first.
  7. XSVTOYZ
    in the past I have chased this issue and finally decided the power supply for the head unit was the issue and one of those inexpensive filters on the hu power fixed it did you try another music source on the amps? I will bet its not there
  8. White Lightning
    Nice Work. Hope the stage and image is as nice as the Amplifier Rack ... I’m tuned in.
  9. Blast12345
    Here is a diagram of the current wiring for power. https://imgur.com/gallery/uojlFOM The “?” represents whatever the stock wiring harness does. Hopefully this makes it more clear.
  10. Joshdashef
    I use those exact subs in my rig on a DC 2k. Other amps are better watts/$ sure. Throw em in a ported trunk box, seal it off if you can. Only thing I would change with mine is side port it, and increase the port area.
  11. Blast12345
    I measured a bunch of different wiring configurations to give me a better picture of my options and the associated resistances. As it currently stands though: I currently have the HU grounded to the stock harness ground. The amp is grounded by a 2 gauge line run straight from the battery. (Though it goes through a distribution block as it nears the amp.)
  12. Mike4068
    That is exactly what you should be seeing. The alt only puts out as much power as the system asks for. Since music is dynamic the system only asks for more power when the bass gets heavy. There is a lag time between the request and the response. That is the reason for bigger and multiple batteries in larger systems. Your electrical is perfectly fine.
  13. Mike4068
    I'm confused as to how you have things wired. Hu ground to amp ground? Dash chassis to amp ground? Battery to amp ground? The amp should be grounded to the chassis or the frame with the shortest wire possible.
  14. Blast12345
    I decided to just do both. I added an extension onto my multimeter so that I could reach everything. My multimeter reads a base resistance of 0.8 ohms. Ill format my readers such that the first value is my measurement, the second value is my BASE resistance for the DMM, and the final result is the difference (or real resistance). Battery to Amp ground: 0.8 - 0.8 = 0 ohms Battery to dash chassis: 1.1 - 0.8 = 0.3 ohms Battery to stock HU ground: 1.2 - 0.8 = 0.4 ohms (when I reversed the DMM leads....I got a reading of 0.5 - 0.8 = -0.3 ohms. I’m not sure how that is possible) Stock HU ground to Amp ground: 1.4 - 0.8 = 0.6 ohms Dash Chassis to Amp ground: 1.4 - 0.8 = 0.6 ohms So as it stands - the gap is 0.6 ohms. But - connecting the HU directly to the battery ground (as I did last night) is equivalent to the first example (battery to amp ground) as I used EXACTLY the same cable as I did for my DMM extension. In that situation I still heard the whine. (in fact - I just tried again; no change) Also - the different readout for battery to stock HU ground (based on the direction of my leads) is perplexing. I don’t have a particularly amazing DMM though. It is a P30756 - so perhaps the accuracy isn’t up to snuff.
  15. Marvin1980
    Ok guys first awesome page just found been browsing for hours hats off guys!! Ok I have a 2012 suburban that I’m ready to add some bass too I have a pair of sa12 4ohm sitting in the garage from my last ride not wanting to use all my rear deck with a box so if you had your choice of box designs what would you go with I have the tools to build anything just not sure what direction I want to go and also what amp would you pair up with them I blew my 1400.1 ct sounds so looking for new power
  16. Yesterday
  17. Marvin1980 Marvin1980 joined the community
  18. deathcards
    the batman symbol made me smile
  19. Scotnemily
    I found the problem. It was the inner baffle. This side was tighter and really could have used another 1/16th inch larger hole. When I test fit the sub before it fit if it was rotated just right. This end rotation did not match what I wanted. I cut the inner baffle slightly larger and it fits good now.
  20. Jayraza
    At idle 13v and I measured 13.2v at 2500rpm but it was staying mostly at 14 volts during system play. 13.2 was the lowest number I seen for half a second.
  21. ToNasty
    Brand new never mounted or powered up. 600 shipped obo within the 48
  22. Blast12345
    By that - do you mean check the resistance between the HU ground and the amp ground or should I check the resistance between the amp ground and the battery?
  23. Mike4068
    Check your ground point. It should be less than half an ohm.
  24. Blast12345
    I’ll look around for a way to turn it off. Im curious where the problem would be coming from though. I have the dedicated ground line run. The amp setup in the rear is quite straightforward. I suppose I could try disconnecting the sub amp and double checking that nothing on the amp (namely mounting screws) are grounding out on the chassis.
  25. Mike4068
    Everything is normal. If you want to stay higher then you need more reserve in the form of a higher ah battery. Ain't nothing wrong with 13v though. Was that at idle or at 2k rpm? 2k is when the alt is going to be able to make it's power.
  26. Second Skin
    Only 3 Damplifier Pro B Stock Bulk Packs left....get them before they are gone.
  27. Jayraza started following 200 amp alternator idle low amp output
  28. Jayraza
    Hello everyone I’m new here, forgive me if this is not the right section. I had a shop completely replace the alternator and battery with a new one and supposedly amped this one to a max output of 200amps. I got my car back and the voltage holds steady at 14.2 with many stock components on. however when I play my system (skar audio 1500rms, 2 skar12’s at 2 ohms) my voltage drops as low as 13.0 at the lowest drops, when the big drops are over it immediately goes back up to 14.2. seems to draw 20-30amps turned up. using an amp clamp meter I measured the current from the alternator post at idle at 20amps. With everything on (a/c lights etc)including the system playing loud I got readings up to 80amps. Without the system playing readings were 50-60amps. Is this normal for the kind of alternator I have? Or should a 200amp alternator be capable of maintaining voltage during the system playing with car running? Should my idle voltage be higher or is that more related to the rpm of the pulley? Btw, I never received any bench test certificate, I picked my car up after hours. edit: I will be adding a secondary battery just for the audio system soon.
  29. Jayraza Jayraza joined the community
  30. slowfkncar
    You know what man, if your head unit lpf doesnt make a difference from 200/12 to 80/12 and your 100% positive you didnt cross any rca's, I'd just call pioneer to explain the problem because it just seems your unit is defective or your being fooled by your front stage with a flat eq.
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