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  2. I would say NO..... You want to run 10K worth of subs but have only 400 Watts of mids and highs to keep up. (front stage because chances are you wont even hear the the rears. its why you see builds out there with multiple Drivers in there doors. Its not because they love there mids & highs. There bass heads and need that many drivers to help keep up with there sub stage. Fuck the rears, get some Q-Logic kick panels and add to your front stage without having to fab up door panels. Trust me you WONT hear the rear stage with your sub stage as big as it is. Just my 2 cents! good luck man!
  3. Yes, it absorbs the back wave so all you hear is the front wave. Before the back wave was bouncing off the plastic table and didn't sound as clean. I have the 4" and tweeter playing off 2 different RF crossovers. One is for a T2 comp set and the other for T1 comp set but both for 6.5" comp sets. I just did a test and i can tell a slight difference, the T2's put out more midbass than the T1's. I plan to use the T1's because midrange sounds a tiny bit better plus i will be using amp HP crossover to raise frequency to 150 - 200hz. Which ever sounds better since testing on 15 watts rms on a table will not be the same as the 60 watts RMS the will be getting from the amp. But i think understand how the drivers work at low rms is helping me with learning process so when i do put them on power installed i will be able tune better and faster. Thats my hope anyway.
  4. SQ is a whole different game compared to SPL... Plenty SQ speakers exist that sound simular or FAR superior it depends on your definition of "sq". one of the most important things would be keeping the front stage well blended with the subwoofer and thats tricky as shit to do with a 2500w rms sub amp, good SQ components 2 or 3 ways should fill in almost all of your sound up front. If you don t care about absolute phase,driver placement,stage height and stage blend ect and want a 2500w sub stage then your looking for spl because lets be honest, an sq vehicle doesnt need to be breaking panels and glue joints lol. For example, in my work car this is what i run Arc kar 600.2 on a pair of cdt es06's & kar 300.4 running a pair of dyna md142's along with a pair of cdt drt 26a's all on the front stage, im running an sq4500.1 on a custom 60mm ww 3" coil fi Q tuned to 30hz with a smallish (12sq/ft) port. The system sounds fucking amazing to my ears and thats coming from a senior professional installer HOWEVER it is NOTHING like a true SQ vehicle... It's got wayy to much cabin gain and reflections to keep all the sound up front and the vehicle gets loud enough to rattle the windshield back and forth... It's not a vehicle you can listen to when your feeling calm or suttle which a real sq system can do with ease. That being said, you are probably looking for daily SPL (FI-Q,ID-MAX,SSA ICON,TCS EPIC) a little more sq friendly but not near as loud (ID-Q,Boston spg-555,Rainbow vanadium 12,FI-Q w/high QTS)
  5. dimesions width38/ depth18/height23 can go 39wide and height 24 maybe 20 depth its a small SUV I'm trying to use the backseat aswell without folding them thats what im currently doing just to get more air space between the port and the hatch @Joe X
  6. Not with the smd tools. Maybe an hour or two.
  7. right as well as in the rest of the sentence he said if another third part is interested :). He is interested in possibly becoming a forum vendor so maybe someone should Pm him. There is always room to help the site out
  8. Pennzoil platinum in the z28 and amsoil signature series on the z06, wix filters on both
  9. cole00c7r

  10. Nice, Never came up with my gross or net volume. Just figure I'll get all that info that when I get done with the shell, before I figure the port out. Because I'm just making it as big as possible. I thought about counter sinking them but I just figured a few tubes of liquid nail or 8x could fill the gap and 2 sheets 3/4 birch for the back wall would be pretty decent. Hell I still may even do it. Would make me better having something a tad flusher to mount to, lol. There will be 3 more 2x4's going above the ones that are carriage bolted. I'll have to just mount them to the birch like ExoContralto did in his 2 18 wall build. Off topic. But I'm new to posting on this forum. It says my "Attachments are full." If I delete or clear my current "attachments" will it remove my pictures from my post?
  11. K&N filters do flow a lot more air, they also flow a lot more dirt. Do a google search on it. If you are always driving on pavement, probably doesn't matter. I'd never put a K&N in anything that ever drives off pavement though, FYI.
  12. Today
  13. Buying the dyno isn't an issue, it's performing tests on our own equipment and that becoming a conflict of interest. We do test them, but not with a "dyno". There are other industry standards out there.
  14. Yesterday
  15. Thanks again man. Nearest dealer is 2hrs away so not too bad. Won't need components with tweeters or just recommended to buy separate tweeters on top of buying these? In your opinion, you think these will definitely keep up with the sub stage I want to run?
  16. bend over.
  17. DD audio AW6.5 $299/pair 120-360watts AW5.25$299/pair 120/360watts both 4ohm speakers, i dont think youd wanna run ur mids any lower than 4ohm.
  18. ^^what he said and dielectric grease on the bolts.
  19. Would heat resistant loom/conduit help with cold temps? Maybe it'll help stop the condensation or whatever is causing ur wire to get moisture in it. Maybe double up on the adhesive lined shrink tubing and use sealed lugs, ones without an opening/inspection-window toward the ring of the terminal.
  20. A/C cable is only meant to be bent once and never move again, where as welding and audio cable is flexible enough to make tight turns easily where the 7 strands are basically solid wires in a covering, you do not want A/C cable in a car.
  21. so after looking up some specs on the resistance of the two compared wire. the 1/0 7 strand cu has a lower dc resistance per 1kft. the 7 strand has .1002 vs the welding cable at .105.
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