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  3. Hey quick update. you were absolutely right! after countless hours of diagnosing everything from top to bottom, I came down to the conclusion that the lc2i “main” channel, which provides the high level signal is malfunctioning. I have the amp relocated, power, ground, remote and speakers wires all hooked up, when I use a different audio source (ie: my iPhone) the speakers work flawlessly. So I know there aren’t any issues with any of the wiring aside of the RCA’s, I swapped out the RCA cables with a freshly opened pack of sky high cables and it still did the same thing verifying that my original cables are good. , so I’m assuming the lc2i “main” channel is fried causing issues via RCA’s. before I purchase another lc2i, is there any safe way to test if my lc2i is malfunctioning ? I was thinking of running an rca cable from the lc2i main channel to my other cars amp to see if it causes my amp to malfunction but I don’t want to damage anything on the other car. Tomorrow I’m going to use an actual head unit wired up on the test bench to verify everything works with a second audio source other than my phone with the amp wired in it’s new spot to verify everything continues working. thanks so much for all your help, I extremely appreciate it.
  4. looking for these items and are willing to ship to Las Vegas
  5. So I did end up emailing power bastards asking if they had a solution to this and I predict that they will tell "sorry you're screwed" which is what other 9th gen Honda owners have received from Mechman and Singer in he past because of the alternator works. In the mean time I kept on searching on how to deal with this bullshit. What I found out is (at least for my Honda and the same concept can apply to others) Honda put in this lovely dual charge mode that is supposed to basically make your alternator work just barely enough and that's it and only goes up to 14v when a load is seen from the PCM but then will go back down to it's sad barely 12v. This can fixed by buying a Hondata FlashPro. Within the FlashPro manager under the misc. section you are able to disable ELD and fuel economy alternator control and other various parameters. Fuel economy alternator control is what is controlling the dual charge mode causing it to sweep from 12v-14v. Once this is disabled the alternator should stay at a steady ~14v-14.5v and solving the very frustrating alternator limitation that I, and many others, have run into. But, here's another issue, Hondata FlashPro isn't fucking cheap! (Or at least for my budget!) Hondata FlashPro Accord 2013-2015 US L4 (CARB): $495 https://www.hondata.com/products/flashpro/flashpro-accord-2013-l4-carb Hondata FlashPro Accord 2013-2015 US L4 (RACE): $695 https://www.hondata.com/products/flashpro/flashpro-accord-2013-l4 I don't plan on tuning my car or changing fuel mapping so spending $500 on a piece of equipment I'm only going to use once seems a little steep to me. Another way that I'm going to try and combat this problem, and save money in the mean time, is to see if a Honda dealership is capable of disabling this feature. A buddy of mine works at a Honda dealer and I'm going to get in touch with him in the morning to see if their software goes in-depth enough to disable this feature and test to make sure it's sitting at a constant 14v without sweep. I know the Ford VCM 2 with Ford IDS will go pretty in-depthish as to what you can do within the car and would assume Honda would have an equivalent or better programming tool. Now, assuming if this is possible and all goes well, I realize this option really isn't available to everyone as a phone call to your local dealership asking to disable ELD and fuel economy alternator control probably wouldn't go as planned unless you knew someone that worked there. Since the alternator is constantly monitored by the PCM using can bus, to my knowledge, this can not be physically altered, bypassed, or deleted which is a huge slap to the face when putting in a some what demanding system into a 9th gen or higher Honda. So, if you're planning on putting in a semi-serious or fucking ground pounder into the trunk of 9th gen accord I guess you should add $500 to the price tag to get rid of that feature Honda as put in place. Personally, I don't really care about the gas mileage loss, I just want steady voltage and my amp to be happy and no depressed like it is now when it dips to 11v or lower... I've also read that some people have just upgraded the battery and after that had no performance issues or significant voltage drop. I did see on another forum that someone put in an older Singer alt into a 9th gen civic and wired his own ignition source to it and completely bypassed the ELD, PCM, and all the can bus bullshit and was sitting at a steady 14.2v by using an older style alternator that doesn't rely on a computer. Now, as to what alternator model he used, or if it was custom build in a factory alt shell, or any other technical specs I have no idea because the post was extremely vague. That is another option available and is possibly cheaper as long as the new alternator going in does not include can bus connector and you can manually wire it yourself. There could possibly be other cheaper alternatives to bypassing a 9th gen Honda's (and newer) ELD, fuel economy alternator control, and PCM holding it back from it's full potential, but from what I've researched and looked up I have found absolutely nothing and surprised that nobody has made any progress on this issue or just simply don't care about it and are happy with shitty voltage going to their system. Most of the forums start off promising and then the conversation all of a sudden starts talking about how to change a ball joint or some shit and never gets back to the main topic... Hopefully this helps anyone trying to figure out solutions to this problem and can add input on this as I have not seen a solution to this and that the Hondata Flashpro route is probably the safest, but more expensive.
  6. I’ve noticed that expensive lithium batteries get hungry when they aren’t installed yet. So make sure you set food on top of it periodically until installation, so the battery can eat. Plus, I found out that expensive lithium batteries are self conscious about themselves when going through the uninstalled phase. So every now and then, walk up to it and tell it it’s sexy or something like that. Compliment it. Once installed, then you don’t have to feed it or compliment it anymore because it would become self sufficient and be content. It’s a tedious process. But if you love your lithium battery, you would have no problem with it and it becomes a want on your to do list instead of a need.
  7. Vehicle dependent. Best case, but most work, is to seal off the trunk and fire both sub and port into the cabin in a semi-walled-trunk build. Otherwise you can still fire into cabin with both port and sub or reverse it and fire both into the trunk lid. I don't care for the rattles facing to the trunk gives, so I'd prefer a wall or at least sub and port facing to the cabin.
  8. Honda ELD is a bitch. On the 8th gens you can just unplug it but I don't think that applies to the 9th gens... Maybe throw a bone to the alt companies like Mechman, US Alts, Stinger, etc.
  9. All of the gains are ready. 2.1V RMS from the RCAs 16.8V RMS for each tweeter and mid 33.6V RMS for each midbass 33.6V RMS for each coaxial The crossovers are set based on the recommendation of Hertz. 1800Hz HPF tweeter 250Hz HPF mids 70 HPF midbass 80 HPF rear coaxials
  10. Got this bad mammajamma today. Getting ever so close! If anyone has any tips, tricks, or any info/ do's & don'ts about going lithium that I might not know, any info is always appreciated!
  11. Ordered the prv will let you guys know. Shoots
  12. Soo yeah both blown. How long they usually last? Mine was a little over a year
  13. ok im wondering what would sound better, I would like to face my subs forward into the cabin of my car would the sound be better with the port facing forward or with a box that has a port that is in the back firing into the trunk? Well not directly on the back of the box, a back side port?
  14. Man... You're wrong...... Wrong wrong wrong... just kidding Yeah your right.... The more power over rms you push to a sub the shorter their lifespan will be. And sometimes i think about things from my own perspective and not from the person's asking perspective. I would run a 3k to a dd712.... But id set it properly and watch it very closely and turn the gain down as needed. If i blew it, that would be my fault and id have no one to blame but me. So i get what your saying. And those SounDigitals are beasts. Hell my new 5K is rated at 6530 watts at 14.4. The Fi subs i have coming are only rated at 1500rms each without any extra options... Mine is coming fully loaded but still, i wont be setting the amp to its full potential. Which is good for the amp as well. I stay at about 14 volts now with regular battery and the 250amp alt... My lithium should be here friday.... Will have to see how my voltage looks after that.
  15. Have you bought the sa8’s already? If so, then downgrading wouldn’t be smart. Because even though them subwoofers are underpowered, they are better than them other subwoofers. Don’t waste your money. There wouldn’t be a better sound, so why spend any more money. Sa’s are some of the best subwoofers. They are tanks.
  16. You are welcome! I just get on edge when I speak on something I know and it’s correct and then somebody thinks it’s wrong. I guess I over reacted a bit. But man, these “vs” threads about had me kinda arguing with a member on here that I like and rock with and then had me snapping on you. Lol that’s why this forum doesn’t do “vs” threads anymore.
  17. Been playing with hornresp and 6ths. Does this look right? Justvwondering because it doesnt look like the graphs i normally see that are flat. Have tried different subs, large and small port square inch different chamber sizes. They all come out similar. I use my phone to post, so took pics of the computer screen. One pic is specs of rear chamber, other is specs of front chamber.
  18. Ok. Thanks a million. Ill go with the 2.75net, 14sq" per cube tube to 32hz. And no, i didnt come here to do 'vs' crap yall talking about. Am just working with a budget and finding out from people who know a thing or 2 as you said. But thanks again. All the best...ill let yall know how it sounds
  19. If you know the spec answers then why are you here? I know why. Just to post “vs” threads to figure out product answers.
  20. I've been on this site for a while, and while I've noticed that the majority would say "go bigger", I have a dilema that I'm throwing out there. I'm currently in the process of updating my cut through, and decided to go from (3) Sundown SA 8's to (4). I'm currently running a Crescendo S1-v2 and on the (3) subs, it sounded great. However, I also recently picked up a DD Audio D5.1500 thinking I would use it for my whole system. The Crescendo is rated 1650w at 1 Ohm, and the DD is rated 1500w at 1 Ohm. Both amps are underpowered for the (4) SA 8's. So, I'm wondering if I should downgrade the subs to the E series 8's? It's a stupid question, I know, but the E 8's are a better power match for the DD amp (300w vs. 500w) which I'm going to run in a custom center console. The SA's would only be getting about 75% of their rated power which I know for Sundown is pretty low, but within minimums from what I've read. The SA's and E series use the same enclosure size and tuning, so the box would stay the same. I really want to use the SA 8's (because it's cost effective), but will buy the E 8's if it would be worth it. I'm throwing it out to the bass heads and pros on this site. Any help would be appreciated!
  21. Yes. 2.75 cubic foot net volume. You want deeper and louder bass, then a 10%-20% increase is needed. Just because a company recommends a certain size doesn’t mean it isn’t optimal to go outside of them recommendations. You are on a forum of bass heads that know a thing or 2, not a car audio company website that is trying to sell you a subwoofer and recommend something to cover their ass on warranty issues when noobs clip and bottom out subwoofers because they don’t know what they are doing. 2.75 cubic feet of net volume isn’t too big. Its a 10% increase. And it would be tuned lower to compensate the volume increase. That enclosure would sound better and hit harder than that 2.25 cubic foot enclosure you wanted that’s tuned to 35hz.
  22. Ok. Thanks. Not like i didnt admit i didnt know much lol. Anyways, can you give me a bit more details about the box design? I saw you said something about 2.75cubes net or ?? If its net, that may be a bit to large of an enclosure. Can we come uo with something a bit smaller that would get at what am looking for?
  23. I was talking about on an xfl. But even on a dd 700, it would give out after a while, even on no clipping. And weighing in the fact of the amount of knowledge this guy has pertaining to car audio, he is gonna clip. Never recommend way too much rms to somebody that doesn’t know how to use it. It could result in damage to their gear that they were looking forward to and loving like a girlfriend. You don’t want that to happen to somebody. I don’t. Another thing, go on YouTube and see if you find somebody running a 3k wired to 1 ohm or whatever 3k on that is, on a dd 700 or an xfl. There is one guy who is using a cheap 3k that doesn’t do 3k on an 12” xfl and another guy who thinks he has his xfl1044 wire to 1 ohm on a 3k. But how can you wire a dual 4 ohm subwoofer to 1 ohm lol? I tried to find somebody running 3k rms on one of them subwoofers and I couldn’t. 3k rms is too much. Especially a soundigi that does way more than 3k rms at the average 14.4v rating.
  24. Too much for which sub? Properly set, Id personally have no fear with the DD712 ... I put the SFB2K on 2 of the DD 200 series 10s just to try it out and they took it like a champ. They played full tilt with the SFB1K for a couple weeks with no issues.... The 700 series are much more robust. Could always turn the gain down a bit. But cant always turn it up without clipping. In the last few months i have come to the conclusion its always better to get the bigger amp up front.
  25. ok so. A deafbounce 2k. The box. To get what am looking for your saying go with 2.75cubes net with 14" per cube for port with a 32hz tune?
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