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Your net box volume is too high, it will play very peaky and lower sound quality (higher group delay), 2 net is maximum, port area 28-29 square inches is more than enough, larger port area than that is useless, the port gets longer and your external box size gets unnecessarily big, the longest port length I recommend is about 40 inches to avoid in-bandwidth port quarter wave resonances. I have found that with skar subs their larger size box recommendation is about right, unlike many manufacturers that suggest tight enclosures than what they should because most people prefer smaller boxes. So 2.0 cubic feet net with 29 square inches of port area tuned to 32-34Hz is what would be my suggestion.

How’s the giveaway gonna go?

Sundown Audio X8 v.4 8” Subwoofer is a legit BEAST (SMD flash giveaway!)

I'm building a ported enclosure for 1 12" EVL-12 2 ohm sub. The external dimensions are 24x15x19.66 and my net internal volume is 2.3ft³. I'm wondering if making my port area 35in² is too big? Or if that even matters. I'm new to this so any info. Would help. I think I attached a link to the design page for the box.

How much for all 4, I need to get rid of my bucket sub! haha

Hi, guys i am looking for an enclosure spec to play a pioneer spl 3000 sub down to 33hz-35hz.

The Ultimate Bass Sweep Torture Testing Sundown Audio 8" Subs - Major Excursion Inside!

Ok, you should find your maximum clean signal volume of your head unit with the DD-1, at the RCA output of the LOC you should make sure that the "maximized" light is not blinking, should be completely off, the output voltage of the LOC should never be set above the input voltage of the amp, I guess I will agree that 5V Rms that you measure with the multimeter should be fine, Then you use the DD-1 connected to the amp output and set the amp gain making sure the DD-1 shows no clipping. If you use bass restoration available on the LOC test engaging in it during the gain setting procedure, making sure no clipping ocurrs.

Make your own thread, disconnect the RCAs and set the amp gain to zero and turn on again, hopefully no clipping will be present, also disconnect the bass knob if you use one.

Post pics and specs (box specs, amp, electrical, etc) of your previous setup, Sure enough the X subs are for the lows and not SPL but two 18s (if properly setup) should not be so disappointing unless the box is wrong or the subs are not driven properly.

You can setup a virtual machine in your mac to use windows on your mac, check out the virtualbox software. Once setup you can run Torres software. https://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Downloads

Open up the rear deck to let sound waves into the cabin. That is going to be half of the fix. Would need all the details of the box design you have (all internal and external measurements) to tell you if the box is a problem but 2 cubic feet net is pretty standard and should work, the amp is a little weak but nothing that would make a great difference. If opening up your rear deck is not enough I would go two 12s, probably better ones if possible.

I have a mac computer and am trying to get some form of box tuning calculator program, like torres. Anybody have any idea what i can do short of buying a new pc and downloading the windows version?

I need help I haven't even hooked my subs up yet it's just my RCA jacks power and ground wire and remote wire as soon as I turn on the remote bass knob the clip light comes on and I'm not getting anything out of anything from the amp idk what I'm doing wrong please help

Understood Joe and thank you for the response it's much appreciated. Box tuning is 33hz, I've used the DD-1 to tune the amp however I know this obviously doesn't cover everything as you mentioned. Additionally, in one of the videos of Steve I watched recently he was going over the importance of why you need a quality LOC, which I'm using an AudioControl LC2iPro, which I tapped some speaker outputs as my inputs into the LOC. Steve mentioned that I believe (I could have manterrupted) that most amps "like" 5volts in from a LOC. I used a multi-meter to adjust gain on the LOC and was able to get 5volts finally right on the mark. Did I understand this correctly? Thanks again for any help in advance.

Never mix sub sizes in the same box, not ever.,

I'm trying to help my mother figure out what is going on with her truck. A while back I installed a Pioneer head unit in her 2005 GMC Sierra and it worked great. Now over a year later she has gone through 3 or 4 alternators in the last 6 months. No idea as to why that would be. Plus there is an annoying whining sound coming from under the hood when the radio is on, turn the radio off and the whining sound goes away. Lastly there are times when the radio will be on but no sound, but then you hit a bump and the music starts playing. I've been racking my brain for months trying to figure this out, so here I am asking those smarter than I to please help me. Thanks.

Got an 2005 Ford f150 extended cab wanting to go all out on

I have 15 cubic feet of room for a box. My goal is low frequency spl. Im thinking about (2) 18’s in a ported box. I had X series sundowns and wasnt very impressed. I only want to use 3-4kw of power. What do you suggest?

Ok, so currently I have a ddx 12”, skar 800 mono amp with a skar prefab ported box that’s around 2.0 sq. It’s in a 55 ford so the trunk is pretty big. To me it just doesn’t seem like it’s performing at it best! Can someone please give me amp and custom box dimensions / recommendations. thank you.

my thought/plan atm is to cut some 2x4's to glue and screw in there , the rear wall is on a 13* angle so im thinking about rippipng some 2x4's on that 13* angle and glueing/screwing them to the floor and the back wall , and i can go 2 layers high which should be plenty.

You are on the right path that 7500 watts rms is 86 volts squared but the problem is once you hit “read” on the DD1+ you don’t see the voltage readout anymore. It only displays the overlap. I did the same as you but then rechecked the voltage with my DMM and it was way over voltage when I used -7.5. The problem is when using an amp that produces more then the subs can handle you need to first try -5dB or just skip the DD1+ and just use a multimeter. You can still use the DD1+ as a voltmeter as long as you don’t press “read”. I would use a -5dB tone that can be found on the DD1+ disk then just use that until you reach 86 volts. I would still initially use the 0dB tones to check your HU max volume before distortion with the DD1+ then switch to the -5 or -10 track. If you want to use a -7.5 you will have to download that tone from somewhere else since it’s not on the disk.