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I will measure the remaining trunkspace 18mm is indeed one of the thicknesses available. I had a lot of fun with the last box you designed for me it was very loud ( kicker l7 15") a couple years ago.

I want to build an enclosure that will have a removable external port that bolts on to the enclosure. It will normally be run sealed since I prefer the sound quality of a sealed enclosure. I also sometimes compete so I would want to be able to have the option to run ported. Is it possible to build an enclosure that sounds good sealed and gets loud ported? I'm guessing I will need to oversize the enclosure for being sealed while it's a little on the small side for ported to give a happy medium. The subs I will be running are 4 sundown U15 v1s. If that matters. Subs will most likely be firing up while the port faces forward and it will be going in a extended cab pickup. Feasible at all?

You could also just splice the trigger wire at the original relay and have that feed the trigger terminal (jumped from 1st to last) on the rest of the relays, provided their in the same relative location.

Unless you're good (or knowledgeable I should say at carpentry/fabrication), home-made could work to your personal preference, and you can tailor it your way... Or get a pre-fab setup, and get accesories for side stands, table, etc etc..

Older cars are much less sensitive as they have way fewer electronics... Only things I've seen on Google from looking, is this something different than batteries out of a Ford C-Max?

Nice clean build! Seeing that cable management has me wanting to pull mine apart (i7 11700kf, 64gb ram, 4070Ti), and actually organize properly... Jealous of the 5G symmetrical, I can only go to 1G through my only local fiber ISP.. You could've gotten a 10G PCI-X NIC, but good excuse for building a new badder ass PC

Port area in cubic centimeters?? Anyways I can figure that one out but I do need your max dims for a box, ( trunk measurements: height , Width, Depth) as I don't have that information for your vehicle or the Golf MK6. Also need to know available wood thickness in your country, in countries that use metric units 18mm should be available but you need to confirm that.

Hi I want to build a ported box for the steg st12d2. I want to build the low bass one but dont know how to calculate everything. It is going in a seat leon cupra 1p It is the same platform and size as a vw golf mk6 ST12 product leaflet REV01 (1).pdf

Looked into this last one and it works very fine on 4th order bandpass, excellent low end extension down to about 20Hz and overall low group delay so near sealed clarity. Space wise that enclosure would take about 7.5 cubic feet net (plus port and wood displacements) so compatible with your space, maybe a little taller like 17.5H to better fit the sub.

Ported sounds way louder and bigger than sealed on the same power, sealed sound quality is better but ported sound nice enough for anyone who is not an audiophile type of guy. If you don't seal off you aim your subs back closer to the rear end of your car to be louder (also true with sealed) but in the end you test and decide how you want them. Absolutely try ported, if in the end you prefer sealed you still have your sealed box and then you sell the ported box, just bear in mind ported is a bigger box than sealed, it will fit your trunk no problem, but some people want the smallest box possible, to me the extra output is well worth giving up some space.

Awesome boss. I just got back into the PC world myself, after having one in 2003 LOL. Nice gear. I was also lucky to be the first in my county to get Fiber available. Just a 1000/1000 up and down here. The next bump was just a bit much for my needs (Hell my board only does 2.5g). And its been the BEST internet I've ever had. I've had business lines from comcast and the like, that was 5 times more, and 10 times shittier than this Utopia fiber. Also, it has NEVER ever went out. Ever. They had a posted outage maybe a year ago, but it didnt even affect me (the time of night they did their maintenance. Ive also LOVED getting back into the pc world. All i do is game, look at my bills/bank shit and porn. But, its vasty different than what I've known. Shit works. Works great now, vs my experience 2 decades ago. Rig HYTE Y60 case/ROG Strix E670E-e mobo/7950x/7900xtx/Seasonic Titanium 1000w/GSkill CL30 DDR5-6000 with buildzoids timings/2tb WD ssd/2tb samson980 pro ssd/cheap ass 2tb hard drive/Artic 360/ Lian Lan fans that both need to get in. Been lazy. Samsung g7 27" and 32" 240hz. ROG (im a huge ROG nut hugger) Azoth keyboard, SteelSeries Artic pro's (wired), a few SCUF controllers cuz i just run into walls on the keys. And its been a riot. Happy gaming homie. Ill look for you on Twitch. I think i was your very first subscriber lol. Cheers mate.

I am planning on making a box for my 2 Kicker L7 12's It will be going in a 2015 Honda Accord Coupe I plan on laying down the back seat. I currently have a sealed box for the 12's, but I've always wanted ported. I'm assuming its louder/better? I'm running a Kicker SX 1250.1 to the 12's. The 12's sounded great in the sealed box in my old Lexus IS, in the trunk, but ported would be nice to have. I mainly listen to Rap/Hip hop and EDM. Should I stick with the sealed box or go ported? What direction should speakers/ports be facing in either application? Thank you

That 5 gig has me feeling some type of way..... That's internet faster than some SSDs

Like is stated in the video, I have spent the last two years since we moved into this house with the worst internet options known to man. We live in a forest somewhere in the Sierra Nevada's between Sacramento and Reno. I never thought internet could be as bad as it was. I got by with the local provider who climbs up a tree and aims an antenna at the nearest tower and then charges you an arm and two legs for service. That was $100 a month for my plan and with overages they were trying to charge me upwards of $400 a month! For service that wasn't worth a damn at 15 down and about 3-5 up. HORRIBLE. Then I got a business hotspot plan from ATT. That cost me $200 a month and was doing about 30-45 down and about 8-10 up. I added a Waveform flat panel external antenna and was able to get about 100 down and 28-30 up. Not to bad. I can survive on that. I had the entire house running on it through a very expensive mesh network. It was really the only choice. I was able to game on it no problem and youtube video uploads weren't too painful. Then i tried Nomad internet, another 4g LTE based service that hit off the Verizon towers. It cost $150 a month. It did about 30-40 down and about 15-20 up on it's best day. It was spurratic at best. No way i could game on it and uploading videos to the internet was hit or miss. Terrible. I got rid of that after about 6 months and tried a T-Mobile 5g service with the thinking i would maybe hit a T-Mobile tower and it could be better. I saw 60-75 down and 15-20 up. But again, it was unreliable as i couldn't upload very well and gaming sucked on it. For just $50 bucks a month, i kept it acive for an emergency backup. A few months later my Starlink arrived after waiting for a year and a half (we ordered it summer 2021 and were on a waiting list). That costs $110 a month and just now going up to $120 a month. It did ok at 100-150 down and around 12-15 up. We mainly used it for the entire house (i put it on my mesh network) and kept the ATT Hotspot (a Nighthawk M5) dedicated to my office. That was how we did it for several more months and it worked pretty good. But I was still paying $120 for starlink, $200 for ATT (business hotspot), and $50 for T-mobile (as a backup). That is a wopping $370 a month for total crap! Then one day, the sky opened up and the gods handed down Frontier Fiber internet to my neighborhood in the woods. Of course, when i saw 5000 up and 5000 down for $154 a month (and several other amazing teirs for even cheaper), i pulled the trigger and said let's go!! I cancelled all the other stuff and i am saving a ton of money. Maybe i don't need 5000/5000 but dammit, I am so excited to finally have REAL internet at my house I don't care! Give me ALL the bits! As you can also see in the video, i had to make some changes to my PC in order to achieve these speeds. Most PC's aren't capable of doing more than 1000/1000 and that includes my beast gaming rig with an MSI Godlike board. So if you do the same as me, be warned, anyting over 1000/1000 might not be achievable until you make changes. Typically the 5000/5000 is shared in the entire house so my PC doesn't NEED to have those speed all to itself. But I am on a mission to see those numbers with my own eyes. So i build a new one with a 10g ethernet port. The results were pretty good i would say!

Looked at space I’m assuming a 6th order for a 15 neo 3.5. Should be much better for my space?

So I tossed the sound quality a tad out the window. Well not much End pulling the trigger on the Fi Neo 3.5 18”, that should take up the space I have available. appreciate it Jx!!!

Fastest Internet I've EVER seen! My Quest for 5 Gig Fiber From WORST to the BEST! Speedtest Inside

got a lil more work done , im leaving for vegas tommorow so hopefully today i can get the amps turned around and start mounting them all

i have an Audio Control D-4.800 DSP and initially was no problem using the DM smart DSP software to get into it and configure it....however now BTW i have done this with GTO turned on and off.....I know when turning off GTO use a wire to cross over the blue wire to hot to manually kick amp on. confirm audio is getting to the DSP DSP is switching on NO audio leaving the unit plug into it with the usbc config cable blue activity light lights up however Smart DSP software does not recognize any hardware plugged in checked printers and devices folder on computer and it sees the device plugged in tried 2 different computers..original laptop win 11pro load......second laptop fresh win 10pro load and updated with latest DM Smart DSP software tried different usb/usbc cables the damn software just dont see the DSP......... any suggestions?...im out of options.....

There is an LOC between the factory amp and the subwoofer amp that is converting the signal