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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
    Use a 4 channel on the mids and tweets, then a 2 channel on the mid bass
  3. 3 points
    Well I guess I really sent it when I sent my level 6 upon smoke literally lol.... Snapped the triple joint and actually the sub on fire a bit oops
  4. 3 points
    Yes you are on the right track about sealing that trunk tight to force the waves forward and also not wanting back waves to cancel out the front waves. Multiple layers of a good butyl deadener are rarely needed unless you are pushing major dB like 150+ To completely seal the trunk and block out all outside interference noise, you will need to apply Damplifier/Damplifier Pro on the metal everywhere (normal cars can get away with 40-60% coverage but large SPL builds should use Damplifier Pro in 100% coverage throughout the trunk). That will make the metal more solid. Then add Luxury Liner Pro (CCF+MLV) with the foam side attached to the Damplifier Pro the Mass Loaded Vinyl is what will block out the outside noise and also give your trunk a clean and even surface to reflect waves off of. With Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro completely covering the trunk area your sound pressure will not escape out of the trunk and will move forward into the cabin. If you treat the back seat wall you will be blocking sound waves from getting in the cabin so don't use MLV on the back seat. We can be reached at 1-800-679-8511 9 am to 4 pm Mon-Fri for any further questions. #SMDFTW #TeamSecondSkin @Joshdashef thanks for tagging us, it really helps us find the threads. We appreciate your support.
  5. 3 points
    Alpine 0850s dsp showed up. It was going to be a temp dsp but I actually really really like it and it will give me option to add a center channel if I ever want to in the future
  6. 2 points
    I made one...gonne see what it sounds like tomorrow.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Ok I got bitched at recently for giving my opinion. But adding a sub for midbass is not the correct way. Why not have the mids play it?
  9. 1 point
    Welcome to "The Owner's Manual" Second Skin's newest resource for all things sound and heat. Helpful articles, slideshows, and how-to (DIY) instructions will be released over the future weeks, months, and years to help consumers make better choices with their build budgets to get the right products the first time. Check it out, give us some feedback, and let us know what you would like to see articles on in the future!!! Thanks for following Second Skin's journey over the past 19 years, we appreciate each and every one of you. #TeamSecondSkin CONSTRAINED-LAYER DAMPING #SecondSkinInsulation #SecondSkinAudio #AmericanMadeSoundDeadening #SoundProofing #SoundProof #CarAudio #SecondSkinForTheWin #AutomotiveRestoration
  10. 1 point
    Ok guys, so I have my LPF on the amp and HU set as high as they’ll go. Subsonic on amp is set as low as it will go. Bass boost is set to 0. I will set the HU volume to 60/62 and then re tune gain using DMM, shooting for 54.7 volts or slightly less to be safe (square root (3000wattx1ohm))=54.7 volts. I’ll listen for distortion as well but I think this is gonna work. Then after it’s all said and done I’ll set my LPF and sub sonic to desired levels. Sound good? I’ll let you all know how it goes!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I believe they're a shade over 100ish ...It's no slouch that's for sure...I'm not adding anything else to my car except more power and doing my doors in the future.
  13. 1 point
    This weeks goodies! Items are getting fewer now. Another 10 sq ft of Second skin damplifier pro. Two boxes should be enough for rear doors & trunk. Sky High Multi - color 4 wire. Quality wire, OFC and very flexible, a couple 10' runs should come in handy. New plugs. Next weeks delivery is engine tune up parts. Couple weeks of work left, snows all the way down the mountains and it 25 degrees in the morning. I hate this time of year to work in!
  14. 1 point
    1/4 volume Slow Motion Flex video after rebuild received_492306124653876.mp4
  15. 1 point
    next take all interior pieces and black plasti dip them from gray
  16. 1 point
    If you really want to have some fun, let your girl sit on your sub enclosure and play a nice low 36 htz tone ... you will forget all about the 63 htz Just Saying
  17. 1 point
    if you dont remember the history of this on these forums then i dont know you.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    As far as your box specs go, those look pretty good. The subs you have should perform well in a 4th order bandpass box. The only change I would make would be to increase your port area. I would shoot for 200 sq in of port area. Since all the output comes out the port on a bandpass box, they are very sensitive to port noise and port compression. As far as meeting your goal of getting loud and low, things get more iffy. The box will certainly get loud, however like most ported boxes, you are likely to get your max output around the tuning frequency and bandpass boxes are tuned higher. Here is a graph showing the raw output from both your intended bandpass box (in red) and a 8 cu ft ported box tuned to 32 hz (in green). Please note this graph does not include the effects of cabin gain, which will boost low frequency output significantly. Cabin gain should boost both enclosure's output roughly the same so the comparison is still valid. The ported box is probably going to have more output between 35 Hz down to around 25 Hz. The bandpass will do better above and below that range.
  20. 1 point
    I can help a bit. I have no experience with 4th orders. But you really may want to consider a better amp.
  21. 1 point
    Hamburgers taste like chicken, so that makes cows really just big chickens
  22. 1 point
    Decision made with my front stage ... Going to stay with a 2 way Active. Finally have my tweeters where I want them. Stage width out to the edges of the mirrors, no "rainbow Effect", on the Pink Floyd "The Wall" track 10 (I Think) you can hear the girl walk and talk all the way across the stage and into the back room on the left side of the stage ... Absolutely AWESOME to have that kind of "Attention to Detail" in the music !!! They are not "On or Off Axis. but more angles "dead on balls accurate" by a lazer point to the rear interior light of the vehicle.
  23. 1 point
    You’re right because i forgot about that wiring harness that goes to the ELD. Well from what you say i guess i should be ok with just doing the HO alternator upgrade and going to 1/0awg. If i still get voltage drops beyond 2v after that ill just tap into the ELD with the relay and switch method.
  24. 1 point
    They were set up with the passive crossover first. I do not have any pictures. But he brought me 3d printed pods. Mid and tweeter on the a pillars. About 20 degrees off axis. Midbass was in the door stock location. When I first did them we used the passive crossover. Which is what helps kill the set. It's wrong (in my opinion) it crosses the midrange to high and the tweeter to low. I then added a mosconi 6to8 aerospace I had laying around. Ditched the passive. It got better. Much better. But it still wasnt what I was expecting. This vehicle was a 2006 silverado. I then switched them all out with a ppi 3 way set and it all came alive. Didnt even touch the dsp Again, we all have different ears. And differant expectations. These didnt meet my expectations My advice to you take it or leave it is to run them active
  25. 1 point
    Just realized this thread is going on 7 years old... but I bought a new router, got the jasper jig rigged up and started cutting wood for a simple 2 10” box I’ll post some pics soon. Plan is subs up port back. Center slot port. Flush mount double baffle. 2 kicker CVX 10s on a Rockford 1200. Also started running wires for the SMD volt meter and output meter
  26. 1 point
    I was thinking that if the internal amp of the hu isn't turned off that could introduce some noise.
  27. 1 point
    That is just a slope or how violent the cut is. You could x over higher but with less slope, and see about the same thing. A higher slope or cut doesnt mean better. By all means, do what's best for you, but I also love a 6db slope on my cuts for a bit of blending, especially on my mids.
  28. 1 point
    This weeks material's came in today: But first, while i had everything out i want to play with placement of the Limitless Lithium Battery. Low profile battery will make it easy to run wires. I will make a panel lid using trunk carpet as a template. I did the same thing with the Lancer and then cut it into 2 pieces. One for the sub enclosure to sit on & mount too. The other 2/3 panel for access & looks. This turned into.... THIS. 2 boxes of Luxury liner Pro. Damn this shit is thick and heavy! So my thoughts are to use the really good shit up front on doors, A-pillar panel & B-pillar panel. Then use the OverKill CCF For rear doors & panels. I would like another box of sound deadening, SoundSkins roll and i think that would cover most of what i need to finish the insulating and sound proofing. The Luxery liner pro was $150 on amazon. But well worth it! I need some ABS to work this for mounting of equipment. These are 1/16" x 12" x 12", 1/8" x 12" x 12". I bought this first. HDEP 1/4" x 12" x 24", and then i thought i need a variety of thickness's to work with. Shit is cheap but really glad i have it on hand. Relays for amps, back up camera and maybe some lighting but probable not. These are a bit overkill being water proof & 12 gauge but this is what i ended up ordering. Need nice Loom for interior and exterior. misc hardware & 100 other this that will pop up that i can't think of right now. lol
  29. 1 point
    I'd keep these over some Skarbage
  30. 1 point
    The LP on the rd1000 goes up to 500hz, well beyond anything you need from that woofer. you could always max the rd1000 lpf and only use the 80prs as your LPF, if your bass sounds muddy at the higher frequencies (60+) it could be install,eq related.
  31. 1 point
    Hu highest value possible Amp whatever point you want Assuming that you are going to be settling at 80 or under on the amp, setting the hu high will still send full signal strength to the amp at those frequencies.
  32. 1 point
    Your good man. Wire strait from the amp to the speaker. Rcas go from headunit to amp. Thats where your sound input signal comes from. Only use for the harness now is to power the headunit. Make sure you tape off or use heat shrink to seal off the old speaker wires to avoid any shorts.
  33. 1 point
    By your logic, my Hybrid legatia 8 which plays down to 40hz, makes everything 40hz and up mid range. It's not mid range. Its bass. You have subsonic/sub bass, then bass, then mid/upper bass, then mid range, and so on.
  34. 1 point
    If you want to significantly increase midbass response, you're going to want to seal off the large access hole in the interior door panel to turn the door cavity into what is essentially an enclosure.
  35. 1 point
    I listen to a mix of everything and the ported box has been better in everyway. I would dare say it sounds better musically than the sealed box that was in my car previously. Im using the same sub and was using the same amp at first, it was flat out better all over! Especially around the tuning frequency. I dont find it to be peaky at all but def noticeably louder within 10 hz eitherway of the tuning freq. If you tell me what subs you plan to run and how much power for sure I can show you a box that would work and the freq response of that box vs a sealed box for the same sub.
  36. 1 point
    Just a quick Little update, I wasn't all that crazy about my mid bass response I was getting from my HA Unity 6x9s, so decided to lower the frequency and take it from -12db to -9db, and just like that, the mid bass alone is enough to rattle my rear view mirror on certain tracks. They sound nice and punchy. Still haven't adjusted any slopes but for now I am pretty happy. I read a recommendation for a couple of great songs to test for great mid bass, one was Keep it on the reel by 3X Krazy. Sounded fantastic !
  37. 1 point
    hell yeah man. nice to see someone getting stuff done. I havent done shit to mine all summer lol
  38. 1 point
    Yep, I put them in everything I drive Everything lol
  39. 1 point
    This is very tough because with midbass you want a left and a right. And you're saying you want them in the center console. Is there any kick panels available for your truck?
  40. 1 point
    Customer Submitted Photo: Dan Vadillo's new Mechman High Output Alternator seems to be as entertaining him a bit more than he expected! Thanks for choosing Mechman Dan!! #PowerYourPassion http://www.Mechman.com
  41. 1 point
    Cut & attached adhesive Velcro backing w/ roller. Cleaned dash several times to make sure adhesive will stick the first time. Fits & looks great, really happy with this purchase. I had to install it tonight, it kept sliding off the dash and driving me nuts. After installing i cleaned the car up a bit. I went to vacuum out the trunk but it was spotless. Had to take a pic, i never get tire of seeing this knowing it was my concept & hard work that made this. I think the Malibu will have a plexi glass window to view the Lithium battery and all connection. I have enjoyed building this and learning from it. I dialed in the system today and its sounding better all the time.
  42. 1 point
    Nothing to exciting but makes the car sound a bit better. A COVERKING dash pad at $44 plus shipping came out to be $58. Good fitment and quality. Now to tune the system a bit better. After i put the SQ amps in i just wanted to pound on the system to see what it can take. Now i have T.A. on and need to spend some time tuning. Every Saturday if find a empty parking lot and to crank it up now its time to make it sound better.
  43. 1 point
    Put a fuse block in today and cleaned all the wiring up. Now I need to second skin my back wall/seat Mirror feel off today
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    I am doing a motor swap and wiring in a 2008 Honda Fit drivetrain in my car and the ELD is missing and not wanted, I will also have 1400watts of JL JX amps and an undetermined but upgraded battery with plenty of 1/0. The idea of a dash mounted high low (off?) voltage control switch with a voltage gauge sounds perfect. Is it safe to just get rid of the whole circuit and send a control voltage to the ECU (E15 on the schematic)? If someone can come up with a wiring solution I will PP someone for a bit of their time This is my first post, I found this forum on google and joined for this post, I've been snooping though, car stereo has come a long way since my HK TC600
  46. 1 point
    I need to figure out how the rebassers change their bass, like how some of the country songs are in the 50's and 60's and they will rebass them to the high 20's and 30's but the mids and highs are still the same speed and tone
  47. 1 point
    Come on, man. Why bump an almost year old thread? He didnt bump this thread He added information nothing wrong
  48. 1 point
    I would build a box specific for the SKAR and see the results, I think you will be impressed!
  49. 1 point
    A Pair of Blues Iso-Kit 10" subs (wired in series 8 ohm mono) Got SPL ?? ... Yes I do !! A custom built, dual chambered, blow thru enclosure tuned to 22 htz. (box in the bed) ... Theres more pvc in this box than most irrigation systems !!! 80 (40 inches per chamber) ... 137.7 db at 28hz ... oh yes, very aggressive !!! Thers still ALOT of work left to do to this old Chevy ... Just need more time and ALOT more money ... Let me know what you guys think so far ... Thanks, Randal ...
  50. 0 points
    Thank you Sir !!! That's not the only changes being made. Just got my incentive to take the enclosure out and retro it for it's new ... ???
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