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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/08/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    It has been known over the years some car audio companies provide unrealistic wattage numbers on their amplifiers in order to sell more. Sure, we've seen "1000 watt MAX" amps since way back in the 90's, but here lately the lies are getting out of control. Example in point, the WUDI Car Audio C-266, which is rated "5800 watts MAX" into 4 channels and 100x4 RMS. It's quite obvious with the $45 price tag, this 5800 watt number is a figment of someone's imagination. Possibly Chinese math misinterpretation? Must be! Either way, let's take a closer look at this amp and find out how much power it actually puts out. We'll also look inside and try it with some speakers. Watch on YouTube in 4K UHD quality or embedded below:
  2. 4 points
    So been thinking about this for a good while and was finally drunk enough to give it a try I figure if your cars ever in valet or in a shop for any reason you don’t want them fucking with your bass knob so it sits flush press it and it pops out adjust your bass press it back in and it locks flush
  3. 4 points
    Ill just leave this here
  4. 3 points
    Got the cabinets almost done. Still have to do the finish work. Untitled by kevosinn, on Flickr Untitled by kevosinn, on Flickr Battery will sit at the front of the right drawer. Untitled by kevosinn, on Flickr
  5. 3 points
    Fuck the step by step y’all don’t care so here Ill glass it in when it isnt snowing and cold cold and miserable
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    Sorry I didn’t get much time to work on it over the weekend. Here is what I managed to do. wood profile cut out. After I got the first one, I used it as a template to flush trim another with the router. Now I can start placing the speakers and aiming them. after I got the angle set how I wanted I started making braces to hold it in place. That is all the further I got. I did buy some fiberglass and resin. I cut out a mount for the dome mid but don’t have a picture yet, or have it placed.
  8. 2 points
    Congrats to @reedal and @bolanorthhighlands you two are the winners of the Second Skin T-Shirts. Please DM your shipping address and size (Med-3X we also have woman's Med/Large cuts) so we can get them out in the mail for you. We will be doing the random drawing for the (4) Damplifier Pro Door Packs + Wooden Roller in a few hours. Once it is over the video will be uploaded to our Instagram page and then the link will be added to the other sources of entry like this forum. Good Luck.
  9. 2 points
    @Triticum Agricolam @bcbrassard
  10. 2 points
    Get a set of p3s for it. Get em online so you don't pay out the ass
  11. 2 points
    Been away for a cpl months. Moving, working, working and... working some more. Started on the paint last week. Here are a few pics of the current progress... Will post more tomorrow after I upload the pics. Here she is stripped down, no emblems, trim or bolt ons of any kind. Rusty cab corners cut out and ready for some patch panels Patch panels fit up. Not quite done w the welding, but I was ready to call it a day. Found this and some pre-existing Bondo after I started knocking the paint down, so figured I better strip the truck all the way n start fresh.
  12. 1 point
    Shit you have to finish your fide for him to be scared! lol
  13. 1 point
    LOL, My Camera / Video skills suck. But Here's a little something I done to the Ole Dickle !!!
  14. 1 point
    I think you’ll be fine id go dc for the sub they generally require less airspace
  15. 1 point
    Hopefully now i can get 150 db out of the trunk Received my Sundown U-12's today. Been designing an enclosure for them. I can't wait to get it built
  16. 1 point
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  18. 1 point
    the best place to get the 38120s is that link i sent you, especially considering the bulk discounts they have. you can get custom made buss bars and holders/packs from guys on the facebook forum, or you can make one yourself.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
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  23. 1 point
    SS is our oldest SMD Partner - dating all the way back to June of 2009 (wow!) . In that time, they've run some killer promotions and sales for SMD Members. This is the deepest one I can recall!
  24. 1 point
    little video of the front stage playing, hopefully YouTube doesnt remove it
  25. 1 point
    Here's my latest purchases. Wheels, Exhaust, lighting and grill. Next up is suspension and chassis work - probably a 1-2" drop in front and 3-4" rear, depending on clearances. 24" wheels off of a 2015 or 2016(?) Carbon Edition Silverado and new exhaust - Flowmaster Deltaflow and 2 high flow converters. New Grill, I couldn't settle for common, so I found this. - It's going to look real good w the hood I'm modding. All new lights. Mine were wayyyy overdo for a lil tlc, so that's all I needed to justify new ones lol
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Yes, even on the drivers side i find there is plenty of room. I know to be more careful its passengers that kick from time to time. I don't mind though, it's not a show car it's my work car. And i made them stout and super durable, just clean off any dirt or scuff marks.
  28. 1 point
    Sweet 8" Lifted F450 Truck on 44's Full of Second Skin products, audio system built by Colorado Car Audio
  29. 1 point
    MOREE!!! please looks siik the cars
  30. 1 point
    Absolutely, you've been a huge help & I've learned a bit more than I did. I'll let you know how my second attempt goes. Thanks! I feel better about my -5 choice reading that.
  31. 1 point
    You'd just need to run 2 sets in parallel and the rest as you have them. You'd need to be 1 ohm stable,the parallel channels would be 1.5 ohms. The parallel sets are going to be getting less power like this too. I'd just get a 2 channel amp for the extra speakers.
  32. 1 point
    Nevermind, seems to only be an issue on my home computer. work computer displays just fine.
  33. 1 point
    Nice upgrades to your line up...that "dust" duct work is looking good too. Keep doing big things SMD!!!
  34. 1 point
    If you have then in the stock location with no deadening then you should research the importance of proper install when it comes to sound deadening and speaker performance.
  35. 1 point
    Put up my highest numbers yet. I think i could hit 148.5 on a burp. 2x SA-12's on TS 3.5k. Brand X 270amp alt, 2 AGM's, 4 Banks of XS Power Super Caps This was a 30 second music run - Meter in the kick and driver window down. 40hz
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    I may pick some of this up and test it against the sound deadener showdown stuff.
  38. 1 point
    2 - std 4 (100x4) 1 - std 1k ([email protected] 9.5 out of 10 because they're used. Other than that perfect shape. 650 shipped
  39. 1 point
    I also vote for a FI subwoofer. I loved the output of mine even though i wasn't feeding it the watts it could take. Plus its made in the usa so whats not to love?
  40. 1 point
    Lol ain't that the greatest? Mofo tries to come at you with damn near 50% off. I don't get people. They wave cash around at sellers like we forgot what the fuck it looks like
  41. 1 point
    Always a great time running into this man. #LegendinCarAudio #TeamSecondSkin
  42. 1 point
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  44. 1 point
    I know where you can get a mint 4200 with upgrades for 600 bucks
  45. 1 point
    turns out amps are not as bulletproof as i thought also made this cause i was bored. 0.89 cubic feet and hit 25 hertz pretty damn nice too. JL 12w1v2-4's
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Well wanted to give an update. Some member from another forum helped me out with a box design. I wanted to remain here even though nobody has replied to me figured some would be interested in an update hoped at least. Recently ive purchased 4 Fi Audio SSD 15D1 subwoofers. 2 Incriminator Audio AI40.1 RESERVE amps, 1 Incriminator Audio AI3.4 amp for my highs, 1 (of 2 planned) northstar SMSADM220 batteries. 30 feet of Knu Karma 8GA speaker wire. And Got my box mostly build just need to round router the bracing, port entry and exit and put the baffles on top. Built with heavy duty MDF and Titebond3 wood glue. Yet to come is 370 amp mechman elite alternator build will be going in back of my 09 tahoe... I felt blessed I was struggling with a box design and my friend who designed this one spoke with the guys at Fi. And I had a 9:30 am call the next morning from Scott the owner and he was extremely helpful with all my questions about the box, the subs, my future plans he even knew the incriminator amp specs off the top of his head without even saying anything but the model, he gave me his cell and said get ahold of him anytime with questions about the audio shit. Scott from Fi is a great man I want that out there first and foremost the level of respect he gave me knowing he was far beyond my dumb ass was something I will never forget. He talked about Steve Meades 4 18s in his tahoe. Stand up guy. Anyways My plans are double runs of knu kollossus 0ga ofc and same for the big 3. I got all dbwerx all copper wire ends and wraps and Also vibration insulators for my amps. They seem like a good company as well.
  49. 1 point
    Rig refresh: EVGA Z370 classified K Intel I9-9900k G.Skill Trident Z ddr4 3200 Samsung 970 evo NVME WD SN750 NVME EVGA 2080Ti FTW3 EVGA 1k PSU Corsair 750D air flow edition Alpha Cool Eisbaer 360mm AiO Thermal Paste IC Diamond CPU Temps idle 33/34 Cel, Peak in Cinebench 83 Cel, Avg gaming temp 60 Cel Gpu sits around 64 Cel benchmarking. The results after some very early testing\tweaking http://www.3dmark.com/spy/6962411
  50. 1 point
    After looking over the data, here is what I think is going on. With the small rear port configuration as input power increase the rear port begins to compress and restrict air flow causing low frequency output to suffer. This explains why the output down low is so much less with the small rear port config vs. the large rear port config. In the pic here I circled the area around 30 hz where you can see a big difference in output. The purple line is the large rear port config, the red is the small rear port config, and the green is the 4th order config. At 30 hz the small rear port config has about 3 dB less output than the large rear port config. The 4th order config has even less output, as is to be expected. At some point the small rear port is restricting enough the box begins to function like a leaky 4th order bandpass instead of a 6th. When the small rear chamber box becomes more like a leaky 4th order we see a very slight boost in output in the 40-50 Hz region. The actual 4th order box shows an even larger (though still small) boost. I circled the area here. For more evidence that the small rear port box is beginning to function like a 4th order we can look at the impedance graph. Here is the impedance graph from the small rear port config shown with the impedance from the 4th order config (yellow line). At low power levels there is a pronounced dip around the 25 hz tuning with a peak below that. At high power levels though the dip is very slight and the peak below it is almost gone. You can see the line begins to look a lot like the 4th order impedance curve. I performed this experiment in the first place because all over the 'net you see folks saying to make the rear port area small on series-tuned 6th orders because it increase SPL, and it does, at certain frequencies. However it does so at a significant cost to low frequency output. Whether that slight increase at certainly frequencies is worth it or not is up to the end-user, in my opinion it's not something I'm going to want. If that additional output in the 40-50 Hz region is important, I would lean towards a 4th order bandpass box which does even better in that regard. 6th order bandpass boxes are complex creatures. Hopefully what I've done here can help us all understand them better. They involve a lot of tradeoffs and I think it's important to understand exactly what's going so people can make informed decisions. Conclusions: Port compression sucks. Making the rear port area very small is shooting yourself in the foot. 1. If you want maximum low frequency output (below 40 hz or so, depending on tuning) make the rear port large enough to prevent port compression as much as possible!!! 2. If you want maximum output in the 40-50 Hz range (depending on tuning) so you can put up big SPL numbers and don't care as much about lows, make a 4th order and tune accordingly!!! 3. If you want maximum lows AND max output in the 40-50 Hz region, one possibility is to make the rear port large and then block/plug the rear port when you are going for max SPL. 4. 6th order bandpass boxes are cool, but they aren't easy!

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