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  1. Hook the amps positive and negative to the closest battery (IE the one in your trunk). Current flows from the path of least resistance and that would be the battery in your trunk and not a botched collaboration of the 2 in some big ol loopty loop. Just connect both batteries together in parallel positive to positive and negative to negative with the amp(s) connected to the nearest battery.
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  2. And apparently it's national pet day So have some dog spam!
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  3. You don't want to have a port length over 40" to avoid port resonances in your playing frequency range, also when needing a longer port you want to avoid taking a second turn. As for your latest Torres looks petty good.
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  4. Some feedback: The driver displacement should be around 0.15 cubic feet for a higher power 12 inch sub. Your port area is definitely low and should be around 40-43 square inches to keep maximum port airspeed around 25 m/s, Also because the amount of power you should have a bracing plan like cross braces, a window brace or such. That's about it.
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  7. Joe X was referring to the plastic body panels inside, not the metal structural pieces. Pull the rear cargo panels, it's easier to get to by removing the tire jack and spare tire removal etc etc... None car audio related, but vehicle related... Can always try a Chilton or Haynes book to see what steps it has for removal of body panels/etc.
    1 point
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