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  1. 2 points
    Different revisions showed better results using different points. Yes, that's how you do it.
  2. 1 point
    yes it does actually, but the duration of time is important here. that 3C continuous (or ~180A) is for ~15 min max before the battery is drained below it's usable charge. short duration discharges are the line right below where you read that, noted at 10C (~600A) for 5 seconds per minute. which makes it an excellent choice for the demands of music
  3. 1 point
    Every thread I’ve read about eBay alts is they don’t even do close to so called rated amps. Iv also read they use cheapest parts that don’t last at all. There like the cheap amps you see claiming 5000 watts for hella cheap but in reality they do like 1200 watts. They also don’t come with life time labor warranty. Or any good length warranty at all like good company’s give. The alternator is the most important part of the build for high power set ups, you don’t wanna Cheap out on it.
  4. 1 point
    nice setup you got there, got a youtube i could check out? always enjoy watching peoples progress vids. i need to somehow fit the ports onto of the box for two main reasons, first the only good space for the port/s is onto of the box... the mids and highs amps along with some fusing needs to be on the back of the box. The sub amp (ampere audio 3800.1 with sub wired at .35ohms )will be on the front of the box(viewable with the trunk lid open). battery of course under the box. The second reason being is that since it's a hatchback/liftback style trunk, the best configuration in my opinion is for the port and sub to be positioned ontop of the box firing toward the trunk lid. now A 8 inch port wouldn't be too bad to fit into the box except that it would need a 90 degree bend. i could have 3 inches out of the box, about 5 ish inches down then the bend and then about 20 inches till it hits the sub magnet. thats with the same box as pictured with the sub all the way to the left of the box. now if i could get sub and port somehow configured to where the port can extend beside the sub then i'd gain another 6 inches of port. i'd like to tune it under 33hz. 28-30hz would be great but 31-33 is totally fine. i know due to my space i'll have to compromise somewhere in the box. that's what i'm having trouble with, is designing it to be the most efficient with the compromises The only thing is that on the amount of power i'll be on, a 8 inch port is too small. after bracing, and sub i have 5.02cubic feet net to work with. not a whole lot of space to still cram a port in there aswell. i was totally spoiled having my old car, a 2006 toyota sequoia with no rear seats. i had a 8 cubic foot box gross,6 cubic foot net tuned to 31hz doing 148.3db at 33hz wich would be nice to have in the scion tc but sadly i don't think ill reach or surpass those numbers until i wall the car off or loose the back seats, i want that to happen but not for several years
  5. 1 point
    15Hx36Wx32d 1" material for additional structural integrity. 2x front baffle (.75 material 1½" thick). Port) 12Tx6.75x30L 1.5" port thickness .46 woofer displacement. 2 common port walls (center port) 1:1.78 ratio 5.17ft³ @ 32hz before bracing. I would brace top to bottom with the enclosure being 32" deep. The additional .17 cubes allows for this. I prefer Baltic Birch but 1" mdf works and sounds good as well.
  6. 1 point
    as we all know, there is always the debate over how to get your enclosures to be as efficient as possible. there so many factors that go into this, but i am only going to explore one of them with this little write up. the port itself, is such a critical element of an enclosure, as we all already know. you can help yourself immensely in this area with a basic understanding of aerodynamics and simple physics. so with that out of the way, here we go. we have all seen it time and time again, you can have 2 boxes that seem identical on paper. same internal volume, same subs, same power, same tuning, heck even the same amount of port area, yet different results. a circular port is a very efficient design, and its not only because you can attach a flared mouth to the end of it. this is because it uses the least amount of actual material on the inside as possible. example A- a 6" aero port would have 28.274in^2 of port area. example B- a 5 1/2" x 5 1/8" port would also have 28.274in^2 of port area example C- a 9 7/16" x 3" port would also have 28.274in^2 of port area lets just say this port is 10" long, just to make our numbers easier to follow. example A, the aero port, would have a circumference of 18.849". you take that circumference, and multiply by the length of the port, to get the amount of material surface area that is inside the port, and making contact with the air. in this case you have 188.49in^2 of actual material surface inside the port. example B, this particular slot port would consist of two panels measuring 5 1/2" x 10" (110in^2 of surface area), and two panels measuring 5 1/8" x 10" (102 1/2in^2 of surface area). so in this port, you would have a grand total of 212.5in^2 of internal material surface that is making contact with the air. example C, this particular slot port would consist of two panels measuring 9 7/16" x 10" (187 1/2in^2 of surface area), and two panels measuring 3" x 10" (60in^2 of surface area). so in this port, you would have a grand total of 247.5in^2 of internal material surface that is making contact with the air. in summary: example A- 188.49 square inches of internal surface example B- 212.5 square inches of internal surface example C- 247.5 square inches of internal surface so, as you see, we have 3 different ports, with the same port area and the same length, yet we have big differences in the amount of internal surface that is making contact with the moving mass of air inside the port. the less material you have contacting the moving air in the port, the more efficient your port will likely be. beyond this, you can also do various types of prep work to the surfaces ass well, to make them as slick as possible to help slightly boost efficiency. this is but one factor that is directly related to, and greatly impacts the overall efficiency of a port. this same ideology applies with ported enclosures, as well as bandpass. this concludes todays dose of brain droppings.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Here ya go. 2 part box. Both fit in independently through the trunk opening. Then climb through the sub hole and bolt the 2 together. 7 cubes net. Port flares aren't installed in this pic.
  9. 1 point
    I would word it more like this. When designing the electrical system of a car audio installation -The wattage output capabilities of the batteries must exceed the wattage output of all amplifiers combined. (by 20% or more depending on amplifier efficiency) -The output of the alternator must also exceed the amp hours of all batteries combined by 20% or more in order to achieve a charge time ratio of 1:1 (1 minute of charge for every 1 minute of full power play)
  10. 1 point
    A 3500D and 2 Sundown Zs can be a nice setup. Taking the efficiency of maybe 80%, then you need to produce 4375w to get the amp to full power. Lets say another 1000w for mids/highs, and 1000w for car/engine. That's 6375w you need to make from the electrical. Batts are very crucial because time is a factor in making power and batts store energy over time. So they will give you the juice you need as not to drop voltage to a critical level. The batt to fit in a Suburban is indeed a D3400. ( I am good aren't I?) So if you did a D3400 under the hood, thats 4000w. 2375w to go. Lets add an XP2500. That gets you just barely over your goal. Since you want more headroom and room to possibly upgrade to another 3500D in the future, lets shoot for over 10,000w because of our efficiency and engine and highs. Calculation shows 10,750w. Lets add 10-12% overhead and get to 12,000w. The D3400 gives 4000w. We need 8000 more. We have options. How about 4) XP2000s. ? Nice but takes up a lot of room. Can do 3) XP3000s for less room and more power. I like that. So now we have 4 batts capable of 13,000w total. Add the aH rating of all those batts and get 425 aH To get the magical ratio or under of 1:1 for charging time, you need at least 510A of alts when taking efficiency into account of 20% loss. This now fits more with your dual setup of 2 270A alts, which will give you a ratio of 1:0.94 meaning that for every minute of play, you can charge the batts to full in 56 seconds. That is pretty darn good for that power level. That electrical setup with only 1 3500D will just allow you to play much much longer before the batteries aver see a dent in their capacity.
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