Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/16/22 in all areas

  1. True, TRUE sq, can get out of hand fast, budget wise. Speaker location, is huge, as well as direct over buying 4000 dollar focal rigs. Ive never done a sq build, but, buying seperates, over comp sets seems ideal to me (what ive done) as well as processing, time alignment, location, direction, sound dampening, vehicle resonance at specific frequencies, and such, then, that brings in tools. You will want/need a good mic, laptop/3software, and such, to show you bandwidth, peaks, valleys, direction, TA, and such. (Where a good dsp will help) Source can be huge, lossless files/music is a full other bag of monsters.... A true sq oriented building is super satisfying and SUPER involved. Most say SQ, and most just have decent gear in oem locations, and it sounds ok, and they call it sq. Gear,.. bring money. Most SQ guys, won't run anythkng but class A, or class AB. They are large amps, that make more heat than your generic class d turd. (See Tonys big boy, sq class holy fuck amplifer line, things cost more than my entire build) So, its all up to you, how far you wanna go down the rabbit hole. Cheers and good luck. (I think most that say SQ, TRUE SQ, really dont have any idea what they are getting into, but, if you're willing, anything is doable no doubt)
    3 points
  2. Typically when adding 1/0 wire from the charging stud of your alternator to the battery positive terminal the wire is rather short and typically able to be ran in such a way where the wire is never in real danger of abrasion causing a short or extreme heat from something such as the exhaust/manifold. Now you can fuse it if you are overly concerned about it not being fused and you will want to fuse it as close to your alternators output amperage. The vast majority of people don't fuse their positive wire for the "big 3" due to the reason I mentioned above and the reason I mention down below. You will want to use an ANL fuse and fuse holder not a fusible link. I think the largest gauge fusible links are around 8 gauge (maybe 4 gauge), but I am not aware of the amperage ratings they offer. Using a 8 gauge or even 4 gauge fusible link on 1/0 wire will most likely cause a decent amount of resistance under high amperage loads and that's not ideal because it creates heat in the wire. I'm more than certain your current fusible link for your starter is rather low amperage and rated for the maximum amperage that your starter draws when starting the vehicle. That being said it is fine and will not need to be replaced for a larger fusible link. So if you have 180 amp alternator you can probably get by with a 150 amp fuse but if it blows use a 200 amp fuse, a 250 amp alternator then use a 250 amp fuse, if its a 390 amp alternator use a 400 amp fuse, etc. Try to use the closest fuse size without going over by too many amps, typically a fuse will allow a decent bit of additional current through for periods of times before it blows (which is why I said a 150 amp fuse for a 180 amp alternator). However like I said above it's typically not needed or done by almost anyone who does the big 3 upgrage.
    2 points
  3. After months of fixing things I rushed the first time around and learning allot my build is almost done just gotta install my external voltage regulator also the box is temporary for now it’s a little small 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan -sundown zv4 with fresh rebuild all NSV3 parts from audio apex -jp43 on the sub -sfb200.4 on mids and highs -stinger 2250 -390amp alfha audio hairpin alternator -4 skar 6x9s and a set of Mtx thunderbolt components up front -2 runs of 0 guage to the back 2 engine grounds 3 grounds to the frame 3 ground to the battery i think that’s all I’m really enjoying it my first ever build let me know what you guys think!
    2 points
  4. In a perfect world you might get 1500 rmw to each sub, but with box rise you are getting 1k Max to each sub, and this is if you are wired to .5 ohm (assuming you stay at 14 volts). Any lower and you are loosing rms. Box rise is a bitch. Dont go clipping, that will kill your subs, tune the amp, but realize as soon as voltage drops you will start to clip sooner.
    2 points
  5. The whole 'battery delete' thing isn't indicating to remove the battery, just to avoid mixing chemistries. There are some other reasons, but they don't apply to your rig. With your desired setup, there are 2 advantages here: 1. It's in the trunk. Away from the hood. Away from the heat of the engine. 2. LTO is a kickass chemistry. So.... The usual advice for deleting the under-hood battery is geared much more around conventional battery installs, where running NMC/LFP batteries under the hood would well exceed safe operating temps for those chemistries. LTO doesn't mind it. And you're in the trunk. So honestly, if it fits, you can just toss an LTO battery in the stock location. Barring that, you can see about finding a 'dummy battery' - an empty battery case with terminals, serving as a placeholder. Other considerations: - It would be ideal to convert your alternator to external regulation, or find some other means to maintain a constant charge voltage that doesn't have hot-cold fluctuation. Granted, LTO is much less sensitive to this than other chemistries. But you still don't want to over-charge them. Or under-charge them. - Quick glance at the given specs for the batteries you posted looks like it's in a 6s config. LTO cells are fully charged at ~2.8v. Which means you'd want your alternator set to about 16v. Charging in the ~14v range at stock voltage would mean that you have basically no battery capacity. If, however, you got a 5s battery, that would be fully charged at ~13.5v, and charging higher would be over-charging. Above 3v per cell would be over-charged (15v in a 5s config), causing accelerated wear. And above 3.2v per cell would cause rapid and immediate degradation of the unit (16v in a 5s config). Though, of note, LTO cells don't have a catastrophic failure mode as would other chemistries. So it'll just quietly stop working as opposed to turning into a flamethrower.
    2 points
  6. I went with a Gately. Super nice, built like a tank, look good, and have PROPER specs for most drivers. Expensive? Yep...... Worth it? Was to me. I didnt want to build a enclosure, dont have the time, and all my tools are an hour and change north of my home atm. So, i clicked buy, got it 5 days later. Done and done. Check em out,.. pick one that will work for your drivers, chuck it in, power it up, and let it eat. Dunno if you know who Tony Damore is. He also bought a Gately the same week i did. His looks awesome (under the rear seat of his big ford) (I really really like the color choice also. Looks tits imho, and is the proper size, rad looking kerf, tune/vent area for the drivers i chose) EDIT here is the link to scope em out. https://skyhighcaraudio.com/gately-audio-17/
    2 points
  7. This. Now, if you're looking to improve on the factory sound without going crazy (which I think is what you're alluding to) cost wise don't get too hung up on multiple amps and processors. EXCELLENT results have been had with a simple 4ch amp for mids/highs and a good monoblock powering a modest subwoofer. A good set of components in the factory locations and a small 10"-12" (hell even a good quality 8" is lots for a true sq system not based on overall sound output) sub will be miles ahead in sq than the factory system. Your biggest challenge will be making it all play with the factory system. If you're lucky you can bypass OEM amplification and retain full bandwith signals for your aftermarket amps. If that isn't an option then you'll have to research which OEM integration processors best fit your needs and budget.
    2 points
  8. Search for a belt in the correct length with more ribs, like 8, 9, 10 ribs. Then what you do is take a sharp utility knife and you cut the additional ribs off the belt down to the correct rib size you need. People with 3-7+ alt setups have been doing this for decades without issue. Usually Gates Industrial belts (green in color) will have the larger lengths and higher rib count. Going with a narrower belt than what you need (ie; 6 ribs instead of 7) will be less surface contact on the pullies and could cause your belt to slip around the alternator pully when the alt gets loaded down. Also that is a lot of alt for such a small motor, hopefully your idle is high enough or you may have no output from the alt when the engine idles because the alt isn't spinning fast enough, or if it does turn on it will have rather low output.
    2 points
  9. Wired at 4ohm nominal, your board wont make dick for power reactive. Wire to 1ohm. Regardless, 1ohm, 4ohm, 98ohm, .25ohm, you need to watch for clipping/noise/distortion. That said, wire to 1ohm.
    1 point
  10. When they respond with "Umm, what is Thiele Small?" that's your clue to find a better Sub.
    1 point
  11. Narrow, yes. But not tiny in comparison to others. Though I guess it does depend on the space a person is trying to fit it in as to what meaning they make of "small". And that's as far as I'm gonna go cuz the Tight Rope is Thin on trying to avoid the colorful jokes!
    1 point
  12. The Tahoe is sitting on 28's and looking nice. Still working on the audio build but getting there. Also paint job is up next and so on..
    1 point
  13. Not even by turning the head unit volume all the way up? Edit-i just read it again. Your subwoofer level is at 0? I've read in some instances, a sub level of 0 is actually only 50%. Try turning your sub level up, and retry setting your gains. See if that helps. The great thing about the DD-1 is it'll detect any distortion. So, if you torn up your level, and get no distortion, then you're introducing no distortion, so you're not amplifying any distortion.
    1 point
  14. It will blink sometimes. It's the DD-1 stepping up the level or something (I can't remember exactly what it's doing. The DIY audio guy on YouTube talks about it on his video about the DD-1 and DD-1+. It's normal). Keep increasing until the light stays on. Then knock it back.
    1 point
  15. I was unaware that you got a new alternator. That’s what’s up.
    1 point
  16. I just read where he said he uninstalled his vehicle’s factory charging wire and didn’t bother reading the next response lol. I remember what you are talking about and trying to find it on one of Meade’s videos.
    1 point
  17. So do them 2 things and your vehicle’s voltage is stabilized.
    1 point
  18. The guy (joe x) that asked the OP to tell him measurements can outbuild and design enclosures way better than the car audio fabrication guy. I can too. Not saying anything bad about the car audio fabrication guy. I’m not gonna be one of the guys that bashes him like I’ve seen in the past. He is smart. But I wouldn’t pay him for a subwoofer enclosure design. He isn’t one of the elite subwoofer enclosure builders and designers. So it wouldn’t be worth the money. Joe x posts enclosure designs with specs and diagrams for free. A cut sheet is then easily figured out at that point.
    1 point
  19. I can understand that. I’ve done it in the past just to have some bass.
    1 point
  20. I appreciate it yeah that enclosure is temporary just so I can satisfy myself until I can afford to buy some materials
    1 point
  21. Ya, you'll be beyond good
    1 point
  22. New testing yesterday. Got a new high on the meter. Got a new windshield lol
    1 point
  23. Option 5: Replace your factory vehicle Alternator for a High Output Alternator (lots of them on the market). As SnowDrifter explained the issue is the massive bursts of ampere draw whenever your music hits a peak (Kick Drum for example). Your factory alternator doesn't produce enough Amps to supply those instant current draws so you end up draining it from the battery, which in turn lowers the voltage of the entire electrical system of your car. Upgrading the Alternator Capacity is the best solution to that problem. Second batteries can work for sure, but in reality your still overdrawing on the Alternator and affecting the entire vehicle electrical system. All the 2nd battery is doing in that scenario is removing the visible affect of the lights dimming. But it's still putting a strain on the Alternator almost certainly lowering its lifespan and could cause other electrical issues. There are two ways to upgrade how much electricity your generating. Add a second Alternator as SnowDrifter mentioned, or replace your existing factory part with a significantly more powerful aftermarket Alternator. The second option is, IMO, a much easier solution. Multiple Alternators are an absolute necessity for people running Monster SPL Systems. I'm talking anywhere from 4,000 Watts to 20,000 Watts! But for what I'm hearing I don't think you need that. And honestly, I'm not convinced you even need a 2nd battery. A 300+ Amp Alternator will solve that issue. I WOULD however Also Upgrade your main battery along with the Alternator since all that massive amp draw is still flowing thru it. Factory/store batteries weren't made with that kind of usage in mind. The Autozone batteries will function, but they won't give you the best results, and likely will have a lower lifespan with that much power flowing thru them consistently. /My2Cents
    1 point
  24. I cant find a straight answer on this one. during the once in awhile top up charging of the batteries, can i charge the whole battery bank at once? or do i have to rip everything apart and charge them one by one? on my research half the places said one by one for optimum performance. other places said of course the whole bank at once, you don't want to have to take everything apart every time you need a charge! solar / off grid sites etc everything is set up as a system ( battery bank, charger etc) and it does its thing. there is no individual battery charging, the whole bank gets charged. wired up for balanced charging. thoughts?
    1 point
  25. Ohm load my guy. I highly doubt you have the exact same nominal load. Then again, maybe you do. What is your nominal load, and what is his. Report back. If your amp isnt going into protection, i highly doubt its "just not putting out the same". What is your nominal loaf to each (5 channel right?) And what is his..report back.
    1 point
  26. Running the negatives, is the easiest to do of all the electrical. You can choose your points, locations, area, (if they are in fact a good point to ground). Run a billion of them.
    1 point
  27. You are looking to do a 0.2 net oversize only I say you don't need a port area correction unless you wanted to run way over rated power, if you want to do something about port area anyways add some 2-3 square inches, no problem.
    1 point
  28. Yerrrr.... Tuned that low, if he in fact is, and using any driver with a hill of shit, and not playing slowed (Decaf, DJ Rusticals) music, you can normally not even run a infrasonic filter, .... not much music out there (that hasnt been played with) that drops to 18hz. I have some symphony music, that can see some stupid low shit in my house, but, thats not real common. And your all over it again, its mainly for the suspension of the driver, or slapping the former from out of control suspension travel. Goooood shit yo. Now, if you go buy a shit enclosure thats tuned to 40000000 hz ,.(like most of your basic bitch prefabs) ... the infrasonic filter can absolutely save your ass, where the driver will get out of hand, playing mid or even upper 30s,.... and where many run into the problem to begin with.
    1 point
  29. Try and think about it like this. Infrasonic filter is your High pass, and together with your Low Pass Filter, the middle,.. is your pass band. What you want played. If your box is in fact tuned to 32, and don't play in the low 20's, you most likely don't even need to use your "High pass" filter. Like home boy above said, its for protection of the driver. Same as a high pass for a tweeter. You dont want your tweeters playing XXX.XX hz/freq to protect them. Same shit, just on the low end of the range.
    1 point
  30. Amazing wall mirror with gigantic sound activated LED output level meter. 55 inches! How i made it.
    1 point
  31. I’ve been avoiding buying a dd1 but I might honestly do it now. I know I’ll be doin car audio for the rest of my life so might as well get the tool. It’s odd why I can’t get my desired voltage with the gain knob. I’ll have to keep working on it I guess. I do not wanna fry those subs. Recones aren’t cheap and probably hard to get right now. I haven’t touched the rcas but I will probably upgrade those as well
    1 point
  32. If the Output is Mono then I would stick with the Y-adapter, that will capture the full voltage being sent from the head unit. Actually if the Amp Output is simply wired in series with the Input then either solution will yield the exact same results. Well solutions 1 & 3 that is. Never ever do #2! Not only would you cut your signal voltage in half you also risk creating a short unless you cover the unused RCA with an insulated cap or electrical tape (which is likely to melt in the summer). Just not a good idea.
    1 point
  33. I see you've contacted AT&T lately.
    1 point
  34. Customer service that either doesn't read what was sent, or fails to address questions / concerns.
    1 point
  35. You should never need to max out the gain to get an amp to make rated power so something is wrong. Refer to my post on this thread because I'm not going to type it all over again, but this person had similar issues with gain voltage. Then again using a dmm is part of the problem in these scenarios.
    1 point
  36. Box is in! Very impressed with the sound quality of the x15v2s! They move a lot of air! My box is tuned to 30 but honestly it hits high notes nicely too. Now I only have my smart 3k on the subs and it really doesn’t move them much! I have an energie 4k in the trunk with one run of 1/0 welding wire to my stock alt. I have a dc power 270amp alt I haven’t put in yet. Big 3 is done and I think I’m really lacking in alternator power! My stock alt is not doing these subs justice I don’t think. I can clip the hell out of the subs and they get very loud but sound terrible with distortion. I’d like to get the bigger alternator installed soon and check all my grounds. There is no way I’m getting 1,500w to each sub. It is definitely louder than my previous setup but we’ve got more work to do. Happy with how my box sounds tho! Sounds great but like I said it’s just lacking in power. I have a Taramps smart bass 5k as well that will be installed once that dc power alt is in place. Hopefully then it’ll really pound!
    1 point
  37. For those dimensions and using double layer 0.75 wood your gross internal volume would be 19.2 cubic feet, the next step would be picking the subs, you look for subs that will work well on smaller sealed enclosures, so the total volume of your sealed section would be the number of subs to be used multiplied by the sealed volume suggested by the manufacturer per sub, to do a 1:2 chamber ratio 4th BP you would be looking to do about 6.4 cubic feet sealed and 12.8 ported chambers roughly. To give you an idea you could do 6 12" subs or 3 per side in that volume, the next step is modeling the system to roughly give you an idea of the response, define your port area and to check you will stay within subs mechanical limits on the power you intend to run, is at this point that you can draw what actually is going to get built. Skipping a lot of detail so just a very rough explanation.
    1 point
  38. Id run a 1500 watt amp, all day, every day on a oem battery and alt. And not even worry in the least.
    1 point
  39. Technically yes, all amps will draw some power when off but not in the sense you are thinking of. It's very little, we are talking milliamps that just keep the capacitors inside the amplifier filled up. This goes for anything electronic that has capacitors in it really, and even your radio will use some power when off to keep your presets, clock, settings intact. Again, nothing that will kill your battery. On an amplifier that is 5000 watts rms we are talking a draw of like a half amp if not less, and having multiples of these amps wont kill your battery when the vehicle is off, so something so small like what you are using its nothing, like I said its less than equivalent to turning your lights on.
    1 point
  40. No. It shouldnt. Off is off. Just like your head unit, or the other billion things that are key"d on.
    1 point
  41. As long as you wired it correctly and the power was off when the radio/vehicle is off chances are very unlikely that it killed the battery. That amp/sub combo is 50 watts rms with a peak power rating of 160 watts (which it will never most likely never make), so it draws about 5-10 amps of current when it is used at its maximum volume and probably has a fuse rating of 7.5-10 amps. A standard halogen headlight uses about 5 amps and a pair of headlights is about 10 amps usually. For that matter your aftermarket radio has a larger amp than what you put in and draws more power! So unless your having your battery die every time you turn on your headlights, and as long as the amp is hooked into the power correctly I can reassure you that the battery failed for another reason. Maybe the battery is rather old, or been abused (there are date codes of when it was manufactured usually on the battery sticker), maybe your alternator is going/went bad and is no longer able to charge the battery and the battery finally just ran out of juice, maybe a combination of the both, but not because you put in some very low power amp/sub combo that literately takes less power than any other electricidal device in your vehicle. So going with freak coincidence along with a possible underlying issue someplace else in the electrical system would be a safe bet!
    1 point
  42. Excellent shares and advice fellas. I thought about 15's but according to the width of the "Gately" to fit a pair of 15" Sundown Audio NSv.5's I just don't see it unless there is a way of squeezing the width and raising the overall height of the box to allow for the recommended port area of 68 sq in per subwoofer. I don't have the skills nor do I know anyone even remotely close to my area "Suffolk County, NY" that can develop a quality, custom enclosure that would fit in the vehicle, properly house these monsters, and withstand the test of time in order for them to perform appropriately. If there is any reputable business known that has successfully manufactured something like this, I'd be willing to reach out and get it in motion. Why not 15"!!!! The factory warranty is definitely a concern, I want to see if there is a way I could isolate the power demands of the subwoofers from the existing electrical system in a way that prevents any catastrophic dilemmas. I was considering adding an alternator but the friggin 392 engine doesn't leave much room to spare lol. I'm a firm believer in overkill when it comes to preserving the equipment as well as the vehicle, just need to conduct more research to see if there are any possible options. Thanks again for the feedback, truly helpful and inspiring to know there are like minded bass fanatics out there that grasp the insanity! I look forward to any suggestions in getting this dream to reality. I don't look to compete, it's more or less a self gratifying endeavor to listen to music the way it needs to be heard! I finished up with over 20 years in the Army and I want to enjoy some loud ass music without all the restrictions I had to deal with imposed by the countless military installations.
    1 point
  43. Oh... As for the specific questions you did ask.. Number of amps doesn't matter so much as matching the Amps to the Speakers, your budget, and space limitations. Finding the speakers first determines the Amp options. As for Amp class.. A/B is better for a SQ Mids & Highs build, but they tend to cost more and since they're far less efficient they require more power. So it depends on just how discerning your tastes are. An Audiophile would absolutely spend money on quality A/B for the front sound. But that doesn't mean it's truly necessary for everyone.
    1 point
  44. Hi Teardrop! I'm new to this forum but not to Car Audio, and I worked in Pro Audio for over 16 years. 6K is a fantastic budget to start with. However, before everyone starts throwing equipment models at you I'd recommend you begin by figuring out exactly what you want from your audio system. To start it would help to know what kind of music you listen to, and what you don't like in your current sound when you play that music. Second, I recommend visiting a few car audio shops in your area and bring some of your music with you and listen to different speakers in order to figure out what you like. No 2 set of speakers sound exactly alike. There are a number of different speaker styles, a wide mix of materials used for woofer and tweeters which yield wildly different acoustical properties. And when it comes to sound, until you've Heard it you won't know what you truly like and want. And until you know that, any advice you get from us will be literal shots in the dark. Nearly everyone here who would offer ideas can devise a system with that budget that will absolutely sound better than what you have. But it might not match with how you prefer your music to sound. So going with blind system designs could lead you to wanting to make changes to your brand new sound system 3 months after its installed. So start there. Learn what kind of speakers and what kind of "Sound" sounds good to You. Then come back and let us know what vehicle it's going in, if it's getting professionally installed or DIY'd (or a mix of both). From there we can begin offering advice that's focused on your likes and needs rather than our own preferences.
    1 point
  45. More like "i guess thatll do pig". Meh,.... is a old joke me and my audio buddys always tossed out. "my 2 - 10s did a 162db" - Meh.... "my voltage does not drop .1 of a volt ever" - Meh..... "god damn your shits loud !!! " - Meh..... It was just something we tossed around for years in the lanes,.... people started using it,... Then someone said "that team meh, are loud,.... Which, we were never ever any type of official team. hell people started giving us decals, shirts, (see a couple of the shirts below) we got a Meh trophy one year lol..... its just a little inside joke between me and a few special buds. Guess im still in the habit. Meh......
    1 point
  46. The issue that I have (And you may have similar - i'm in a 2017 VW Golf). Some of the newer stock head units need to see a certain resistance at the speakers when sending the signal. When using high level to DSP this changes. My DSP does not offer enough resistance for the head unit therefore it sends more signal to achieve the volume I'm set at. Then I get all sorts of distortion for my front stage. This occurs in newer BMW cars and the shop I go to has a few work arounds to combat this issue. Most of them involve getting the correct DSP or a DSP amplifier. I do know some of the Audiocontrol DSP's (LCi 2 Pro and LCi 7) work for this as well.
    1 point
  47. My boys run Arnolds, haven't heard in person but they are loud af. No tweet really even necessary. Pretty insane. I personally just swapped my Focal PS comps for a pair of Sundown Neos & CT meso tweets. On the same power they are so much louder and clearer than the Focals.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...