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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/09/21 in all areas

  1. a 700+ LB box by yourself on a Saturday morning? I got this! I got the box in most of the way but it snagged on a Second Skin covered metal bump in the back. I couldn't move it anymore. Since i was by myself, i decided to call in the big guns...aka my beloved forklift. I lifted it just over the little thing i was hung up on and pushed it in. BAM! Done! This port is strong and the way the box is designed i could easily just pick it u
    3 points
  2. It has been nearly 3 years since I last posted on my Camaro build (wow time flies). I decided in my boredom (eff you COVID) that I would make some changes and add some speakers and fix some things. Sooooo, I decided to replace the rear speakers (I left the stock in place originally). Since its just the rear deck for fill mostly, I decided on coaxial speakers and thought I try RF T1s. I also will add some speakers to the side panels in the rear (same RF T1s). So I bought 2 pair. Time to get to work!
    3 points
  3. https://fixmyspeaker.com/product-category/drop-in-recone-kits/
    3 points
  4. So impressed with the Hertz coaxials, i went larger/bigger. So much room in these dashes. And, sorry for many of you, myself included,.... bigger, is BETTER here. Leggo... I got more Second Skin, cut, and warming up, to lay around them.. then, ill crack the dsp open, and drop the high cut even lower. Also, these have adjustable tweets,.. sharp eye, would see im aiming them, at the corresponding A pillar. What im trying to achieve is a broad, or wider stereo affect. If that makes sense to some. Ill add the SS, and, then, with the laptop connected to the dsp,.. go for a ride, run my
    3 points
  5. That 150a of available charging does mean max amperage you can shove into it. That 25ah is meant for stock alternators that output less, so yes you will need to go a different route with that 350 amp alternator. If you go lithium I'd honestly ditch the AGM and get enough reserve to cover 75% or more of OEM specs. Then you won't have to worry about isolators, or one leeching voltage off one another causing more cycles to occur = less life. I liked JY powers blog on isolators because they were fairly simple with explanation: https://www.jypwr.com/blog/how-to-wire-agm-an
    3 points
  6. As I had to build a steel cage, I bough a welding machine, and learnt to weld. The firsts welds were kind of horrible, I had to sand them and weld a second time to get something solid. I made the different parts separately, as the car is small, it's really a buthurt to work directly inside. I started with the floor piece, welded some parts fast to test if the fitting in the car was good. And it was btw
    2 points
  7. cleaning up the LED's and making them less prone to damage. Then i will be ready to put the box in. I love all the colors but that red gets me every time! the blue is so ICY though!
    2 points
  8. What he said. And your gain is probably turned up too much and you aren’t getting enough juice. Which means, you are clipping because of incorrect preout voltage reading and incorrect frequency reading and don’t have enough battery reserve. Just alternator isn’t gonna do it. You need better batteries, more wire, and you need to buy a dd1 to get your gain correct and a cc1 to get your filters correct. And just to let you know, zv5’s get that hot coil smell easier and more often than any other subwoofers I’ve owned or heard. I love em though. I had owned one 15” zv5 and demoed a guys 6 zv5 18s i
    2 points
  9. Yes, the crossovers are the low pass and high pass filters. You should have the low pass set around 80-90 hz and your high pass filter set half an octave below the tuning of your enclosure. On that amp, it looks like if you put your low pass filter all the way to the left dot, that's 80 hz. And your high pass filter starts at 15 hz. So maybe just turn it all the way left, then turn it right a little. It's just a guess, but better than just setting both at 12 o'clock. And keep your level dial all the way to your left. If you have your low pass filter set too high, it's playing frequencies
    2 points
  10. It's going to be a good summer for bass! Been super busy started up school again last year, been working a lot and running a nursery so I haven't been able to update much. Finished out the season last year with a 156.91 on the glass door open and a 157.52 in the kick. My peak went from 39hz before I broke the glass and added the pole and other re enforcements to 34hz. Over the winter I pulled my equipment and sold my battery to buy a different lithium chemistry. Never doing Lifepo4 again... Also decided to switch from (2) MD8k to (2) MD12k, Lifepo4 to EH5, added a DSP, switched over
    2 points
  11. for those that don't know and most probably don't. Dave, aka Deaf Dave (couldn't hear a damn thing out of one ear and didn't mind we called him that) is the one that built the very first version of the SMD website and forums. Me and him started all of this from nothing. He moved away and moved on a long time ago but still will always be a big part of how it all went down in the early days. 3 weeks ago he told me he had given up on his treatment because he was tired of 6 years of battling cancer. The doc told him he has about a year. I can't believe it happened so fast....damn. I'm
    2 points
  12. @1point21gigawattsfinally done bro!
    2 points
  13. Let the upper part of the trimpanel is opened to help with airflow. Along with the big holes on the sides and gap around the amps. Should cool pretty decently. If I have to add more fans later I have the spots and room. Still have to cut the lower part to match the angles. Tempted to leave it honestly lol
    2 points
  14. Finally got the second alt in the car https://www.facebook.com/bola.northhighlands/videos/1669664699902791
    2 points
  15. lol yeah i have to agree, the b2s arent really that "wow" sounding, in fact they dont sound any better than the infinty kappa components from 14 years ago that they replaced. when i set the gains to the s4, i used the dd-1 with the audiophile setting (least amount of db overlap), then turned it down from their just a hair so I know (or at least think i know) that they shouldnt be getting anymore than 100 watts. i also cross referenced this with what the voltage should be at 100 watts with a multi meter so hopefully their not running too hot. the crossover protecting them could be it because w
    1 point
  16. I'm no expert on the topic, but when I started thinking about my upgrade, I stressed over this a little as well. I decided to go sealed, but I'm running a 2 way system so my 8's will be mid bass and mid range. I don't have any concrete evidence on why I think sealed will be better for my application, honestly it's a 100% guess. Here's how I see it. The concrete evidence is there with subwoofer enclosures. Ported is there to peak around a certain level. Where it peaks alters the response curve around that peak. A sealed enclosure has more of a flat response, but you lose some output at ce
    1 point
  17. Ha ! Guess what ? Apparently, it's not even a big deal, and has already been done for a long time ! https://www.google.com/search?q=water+cooled+alternator&sxsrf=ALeKk03wZ1MQJKJIhcOjMaPb2H22Rs8Okg:1620487906635&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiLpKbws7rwAhXGsZ4KHbQsCRkQ1TV6BQgBEIoB&biw=2327&bih=1180 What the hell Mechman ? Why can't we have this option ? I want a 600 amp, watercooled Alternator for my F150 please Thank you in advance Oh, and please put in a regulator that pegs my voltage at 14.6
    1 point
  18. There is a lot of useful tech on here Ive always been into loud music but have always been content with a simple system coaxials and a sub driven by a 5 ch but now want to have a serious system sq is more important than spl I'm off to an okay start but still needs help
    1 point
  19. As I said (maybe I wasn't clear lol), I put M8 bolts where originaly the plastic OEM pannel is clipsed. Then I just made holes in the wood to be able to put the wooden pannel against the metal frame, through the bolts, and secured with locking nuts. I'll try to find a photo of this. You can already see the bolts here when I made my test board. I'm not sure to have more photos of the bolts. Of course as you can see in the picture above, there are not many bolts and they are short. This was a test fit. On the finished door I have longer bo
    1 point
  20. Have you rechecked the ground to your head unit? I've read someone's that's the culprit
    1 point
  21. Of course i have a TON of trim work to do. I don't plan on just leaving a big box sitting in the back, plopped in place. I plan on making it look like it belongs. It already does IMO!
    1 point
  22. Honestly, it seems like you've done a ton of research and you're into a good idea. I say run it and see if you like it. With a DSP, you can always adjust it as you need.
    1 point
  23. Call F.I they should be able to recone it it is /was made by them
    1 point
  24. I think I’m leaning on 4 lvl 4 12s. Hopefully that’ll get down as low as my old blow through and be louder
    1 point
  25. Me personally, I'd go those SA 8's. There's guys pumping 1000 watts each to those things saying thru could probably take even more. I haven't heard much about the shallow Sundown subs, though I'm sure, knowing Sundown's reputation, they're beasts as well. As far as the sound quality goes, either of those configurations in the properly designed and built enclosure is going to do what you need it to.
    1 point
  26. MegaZorbe or Heat Wave Pro are the best to use up there.
    1 point
  27. That’s nice of you to want to help, but it actually isn’t a good thing to try and design an enclosure if you don’t correctly know how to, which would result in a likelihood of output failure. There’s no way a program can tell you some of the figures to build an optimal bandpass enclosure. Only experience and know how can solve said figures.
    1 point
  28. Perfect timing for me! Need some of that heat proofing material you have for a headliner
    1 point
  29. Honestly, they have those under-hood safe lithium units but I would not be comfortable putting a lithium battery anywhere near my engine IMO. I would do a battery delete up front and run all my lithium in the rear (exactly what I am doing) 3 inputs would just come from your rear bank of lithium. Your alternator will only output max 350-400 amps on a good day so two runs of 1/0 is all that is necessary unless you want to make it even. I would not mix the limitless lithium's LiFePO4 with another chemistry like the S5's LTO
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. The peak in my Toyota Yaris went from 39hz in August 2020 to 33hz in October 2020. No I did fiberglass my roof and add a stripper pole which was a large contributor. However I wonder how much of this was from the weather change like you guys are talking about... my lowest impendance rise was at 29hz and 48hz which is similar to yours I wonder if that had a lot to do with our Toyota Yaris cabins...
    1 point
  32. Have you looked into 2 way components with a passive crossover? Plenty of those are loud and clear and you can do fronts and backs on 1 amplifier
    1 point
  33. Found this great video the other day and was surprised . I was under the impression that unibodies are not great for grounds but that is not the case. It also does a fantastic job of demonstrating how to test voltage drop.
    1 point
  34. Decided to upgrade to 4 12's it was a good choice as I got to start the box over. I just kind of copied some I seen on google images. I pumped up the layers to 3 front and top haven't done bracing yet was planning on beveling or what ever its called on the inside corners. I'm using a vent front middle design and shared chamber. from what I've read its about equal opinion on separate or shared chamber. So 2 subs face front and the other 2 on top inverted. I have 2 Skar RP 2000.1d's and a Skar RP 3500.1d (planning on a second RP 3500.1d) strapped to replace the RP 2000.1ds) right now my issue is
    1 point
  35. Because instead of buying 2 good agm batteries, you can buy a decent size hood alternator and a good agm battery for about the same price as 2 good agm batteries. A car audios alternator is the most important piece to any car audio setup, because a vehicles electrical is the most important parts of a car audio setup, and an alternator is what is generating the current and the batteries are just reserve for what an alternator can’t feed out. An alternator is more important.
    1 point
  36. Fabbed up some speaker wires. I originally tapped the rear speakers for speaker level input to a JL Audio Cleansweep. So, all I have is rear speaker output, which normally is fine. However, I cannot fade from to back doing it this way, nor can I hear the turn signal noise or use bluetooth for phone calls since they use the front speakers. I will fix that using these speaker cables. There are 3 pairs of wires in each, 1 pair will take audio back to the Cleansweep, the other 2 pair will send signal back to speakers. Its clugey, but whatever.
    1 point
  37. WOW ... Haven't been here in a minute !!! I'm still rolling in the Avalanche ... Few updates here and there ...
    1 point
  38. Set up. It will go under the pass side seat. And just a quick see, if shits working , or turning on. Neat thing, is the 408 has a remote out also. And, it actually works. So, the key'd i ran, to the dsp, and the dsp turn on, to the damore board. Gigggty...
    1 point
  39. Hold up. Holy tits, i had no idea, the dash area, was sooo fucking large. Everyone on here, knows, space is ALWAYS a premium. Dropping a 1" dome tweet (no matter how nice) just seems bad mojo to me. Ill run the driver side wires and think about it. I think, a nice 3.5" coax, maybe hertz would live there wicked happy. Maybe put the tweet, bye its own satori mid in the door panel or something. Hmmmm
    1 point
  40. North Star is in, with C4Fab adda battery kit. Took about 20 mins. Easy peasy. Crimp time. Also, got my smd fuse holders/fuses. Think im good to go.
    1 point
  41. Most of the wiring is done.
    1 point
  42. I just noticed you have a pole brace in your vehicle. That why I deleted that suggestion. I’m not trying to talk junk, I just want to help because I know subwoofer enclosures well. The first time I commented on this post I thought your ports were too close to the roof where they couldn’t breathe, but I also meant that your ports were too close to the roof where it would resonate up and down rapidly before reaching the A pillar which flexes but minimizes an spl score. The effect you were striving for when placing the ports was correct, but the placement to achieve the effect wasn’t ideal. Roofs
    1 point


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