Jump to content
 
 

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/23/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    i can’t believe how small this amp is! Im gonna test it, maybe tomorrow. Soundigital hasnt let me down yet so i have no reason to doubt it...but this is just crazy here! I think ill open it and show the guts too. I gotta see what is inside
  2. 3 points
    Will has been giving me shit. So I started installing finally. And what I'm most happy about is his pillars for better than oem
  3. 3 points
    Put a fuse block in today and cleaned all the wiring up. Now I need to second skin my back wall/seat Mirror feel off today
  4. 2 points
    The hot seat in Steve's explorer is no joke, it hurts! haha. Plus this beast sure can move a lot of air. Beard tricks anyone? His ride Consists of 6 Fi 15" Subwoofers 6 Twisted Sound 3.5k Amplifiers JY Lithium Batteries SHTNONM September 21st-22nd. Mark your calendars and come to one of the largest shows on the west coast. Free food and water from the amazing SkyHigh crew. Jon always knows how to treat everyone well. Facebook link here https://www.facebook.com/events/381387529171661/?event_time_id=381387535838327 Recorded with Canon Rebel T3i Sigma 17-50mm 2.8 lens Sigma 10-20mm 4-5.6 lens Canon 50mm 1.8 Edited with Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2018 I DO NOT OWN THE RIGHTS TO THE MUSIC USED IN THIS VIDEO ALL RIGHTS RESERVED FOR THE ARTISTS The links to my social medias are below. https://www.facebook.com/luke.schaller https://soundcloud.com/rallybass88 http://instagram.com/schallerphotography
  5. 2 points
    Question unclear. Camshaft stuck in cone after it put a hole through the shower floor from a bad paint job
  6. 2 points
    Honestly I wouldn’t want to put lithium into the harsh environment of under the hood. caps should be closest to the amplifier from my understanding. you could run both in the back just make a connection point for the factory system to the alternator ? Then run the two 0 gauge runs to the lithium then into caps then into amps. Lithium can output lots of current so it may need more than just the two runs into the caps to not bottleneck. so third options distro up front lithium and caps in back
  7. 2 points
    So I'd like to start with a disclaimer, this isn't my best build; if there's something in it you see that's wrong you're free to point it out but I'm already very aware of it. I just wanted to get out of the prefab box I had them in for the past year, I'm currently saving up for a new axl, another pair of tens, some more mids, wiring and starter battery upgrade, and parts for an amp. This is a box I whipped up in a night free-hand with a jig-saw. A little self introduction, my name's Jacob, 18 and live in Louisiana near New Orleans, I'm working on learning amplifier repair and box design, and I'm also currently employed as an audio engineer at a radio station and produce music for local bands as a side gig. My little shit-whip is a 2010 Pontiac Vibe Base Model. So for starters box specs, 2.5cuft airspace, supposed to be tuned to 36hz (but peaks at 25hz and 47hz with cabin gain). I've got two Skar IX-10's wired down to 1ohm on an American Bass PH1600MD (Rated 800wrms). For mids and highs I have two Rockford Fosgate 100z2 amps one is running front and back doors and the other is running a pair of mids and highs pods I mounted onto the box. Front mids are Skar FSX65 with some soundstream tweeters, rears are running Rockford Fosgate punch 6.5" coaxs. The mids and highs pods are Skar FSX 8" and Skar 3.5" Bullet tweeters. So Whole system is under 1kwrms, but I also got a hand-me-down XS Power XP3000, and the Big-three done. This is a bad image but that taco bell receipt and post it have the box design on them that I drew up on my lunch break Here's a better view of the whole box So I am using all recycled wire and it was getting late when I was putting it together so I haven't trimmed the speaker and power wires yet, it'll happen soon. Here are my pods, I made them in 30min to site on top of my last box I'm already working on re-doing them to fit on this box, and one screw tore out plus they're just ugly AF EDIT: forgot to add, I had it metered and got a 135.94db outlaw at 47hz I also got a 131.9db at 25hz
  8. 2 points
    Received my 2nd Soundqubed S1-1250. I have them strapped right now, but may try gain Matching? Going to Droppin Hz Next week to get my gains set, so ill be good for Sundown Audio 2019. I really didn't want to rebuild my amp rack right now so i modified it to fit both Soundqubed S1-1250's. Still need to mount my 4-channel amp. I picked up a 4-way Fused Block today - 1/0 in and 4-4ga out. Do you think i will be fine running all 3 amps on that? or to much current draw for 1/0? Here is pics of my modified rack
  9. 2 points
  10. 1 point
    This forum is for discussing MUSIC - ya know those nice little files you can toss on your thumb drive, music player, radio station, or streaming service and listen to. It is NOT for equipment or build discussion. For those inquiries, you can go here and find the appropriate subforum that best fits your topic https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/63-equipment/ If you're new here, welcome to the forums. I'll probably just quietly move your thread to the right area while you learn your way around. If you've been around for a while, look with your eyes lest ye witness the magic of a disappearing thread. Cleaning up / moving 45 random topic that were dumped in here is just unreasonable.
  11. 1 point
    Welcome to "The Owner's Manual" Second Skin's newest resource for all things sound and heat. Helpful articles, slideshows, and how-to (DIY) instructions will be released over the future weeks, months, and years to help consumers make better choices with their build budgets to get the right products the first time. Check it out, give us some feedback, and let us know what you would like to see articles on in the future!!! Thanks for following Second Skin's journey over the past 19 years, we appreciate each and every one of you. #TeamSecondSkin CONSTRAINED-LAYER DAMPING #SecondSkinInsulation #SecondSkinAudio #AmericanMadeSoundDeadening #SoundProofing #SoundProof #CarAudio #SecondSkinForTheWin #AutomotiveRestoration
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    This is My Son's 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch !!! This car was mentioned in my "Green Dickle" Thread. But since then, we've finally got around to showing this little monster some love !!!
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    If you want to do so scientifically, set amp to full pass, play a tone you want to set to, measure the voltage coming out of the amp, divide that number by the square root of 2, then adjust crossovers until the voltage matches your calculated number
  16. 1 point
    Lol, yeah there is a LOT you can do with HornResp. Nice job looking at the driver displacement. So T-lines are very similar in function to a ported box, they pretty much accomplish the same thing, just in a different way. Like a ported box T-lines unload much below the tuning frequency and you do need to give that some consideration. Hopefully your amp has a subsonic (highpass) filter. You should set it to a half octave below the T-line's tuning frequency. This will protect your sub. If you want to be able to play at lower frequencies you will need to tune the t-line lower, which is as simple as just making the line longer. You can simulate the effect the subsonic filter will have in HornResp. Most subsonic filters are 24 dB/octave (4th order). It is perfectly normal for the excursion to drop to nearly zero at the tuning frequency. Pretty much all resonant enclosures (ported, t-lines, bandpass) do this. This is where the cone control come from. At the tuning frequency all the output comes from the t-line/port and pretty much nothing comes from the cone.
  17. 1 point
    There's very good stuff out now. Time to get with 2019
  18. 1 point
    Nothing wrong with those blues audio drivers. I like them as well from years ago. But you're one I think that needs to step outside your little comfort zone and try something new
  19. 1 point
    I hated like hell taking my A-Pilars apart, but I kinda figured they were temporary anyways ... Installing a 4" driver or a 5.25" driver, tweeters would need to be moved. So This is where I think they should be ... Keep in mind there will be no final product until the mid range drivers are installed ... My apologies for the night pics, my time is very limited and I have no shop to work on my shit ... According to my tired measuring tape, they don't look it, but are level across the vehicle ... If not, I have a spare set of A-Pilars on the shelf. Tweeters are connected to the A-Pilars, not the Sail Panels ... My little problem with the Stage Width is definitely a thing of the past now ... I think, but I am not positive, that this might be able to Stay in MECA Street class ... I will Find out Saturday at the local Bass Wars Event. Both Mississippi qualified judges should be there promoting their favorite Bass Head vehicles !!!
  20. 1 point
    Starting a materials list. I don't have any 8 awg ferrules for sub and amp inputs. Speaker wire in enclosure will get the Tesa treatment and some foam to keep it from vibrating. This is a s much as i can do this weekend. I ordered $300 worth of wiring from SHCA, and $150 from amazon, tools and misc shit. Ordering today means usually everything's here by Thursday. Baby steps for the next 14 weeks, got to get everything i need before then! Every week it has to be something!!!!
  21. 1 point
    This lug crimp er goes down to 4 awg so i couldn't use it. So i soldered them. Turned out solid as fuck! looks good on the SMD set up. Now to enlarge that hole. Rotozip and dremel to make it a good fit. Nice upgrade IMO. Need to solder up wires going to the sub, pull sub down to look for inputs into it. Just put--in around. Getting ready to order wiring & tools.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Alternator voltage boost mod: We got our another project car "ready" Car show: Hot seat demos:
  25. 1 point
    The worst that could happen is the svc gets too much and blows the dvc should be fine. Since your putting them in different enclosures you don’t have to worry about them hurting each other but cancelation can still happen due to different specs but if they are similar enough send it
  26. 1 point
    Sub looks pretty good , I’m a Skar fan to but there subs love big boxes
  27. 1 point
    I'd run the the front speakers off the front rca's of the hu. The hu harness is not used when using the rca preouts. Speakers run directly from the amp. You can wire in parallel as long as the amp is rated to handle your final impedance. Remember that each speaker will be seeing half the rated power if you do so if you don't have a big amp you might be disappointed.
  28. 1 point
    The best way to stop lights from dimming is to get headlights with their own dedicated power supply. LED or HID.
  29. 1 point
    Titebond II or III is what I use 99% of the time. Occasionally I'll use PL Premium when I have a big gap to fill or I'm bonding dissimilar materials.
  30. 1 point
    Centerport takes slightly more material though... Side port will make the box a tad bit smaller but not much. Reason being is a side port shares three common walls instead of just two.
  31. 1 point
    I love the audiocontrol loc's. FWIW, the little 20-40 dollar pac ones are good too. They don't give a very high voltage, usually 1-2, but will give a clean signal and have summing capability. They'll take a much higher input voltage than the cheapo's too. Some of the audiocontrol's or higher end pac pro's will get up near 8v output and accept like 100w inputs. Long as you can get a flat signal out of the factory setup, that's just as good or better than an aftermarket. The axxess and scosche ones have been junk. Like you said, most show a dirty signal even with the pots all the way down and the radio volume just strong enough to get a reading.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    The winners prizes are the way out. Thank you all for participating in the giveaway. Keep your eyes peeled for our next promotion. Give us a call any time for all your sound and heat insulation questions.
  34. 1 point
    The good ol tranny lines of south sac found memories
  35. 1 point
    @Booger weldz on a phone, when typing a reply tap “Click to choose files” and select the pic from your photo library
  36. 1 point
    Cleaned up the garage and put some equipment in the closet to keep them clean & safe.
  37. 1 point
    Beat the shit out of the Skar before you swap drivers.
  38. 1 point
    Welp first piece of my car tapped out yesterday lol...I was driving to Sonic to grab a slushie and the clips broke and it smacked the shit out of me LOL
  39. 1 point
    New videos: New amplifiers, 2x Soundigital SD20000.1D Power 10Hz +150dB: Propper Droppers Finland first competition:
  40. 1 point
    First basshead demoday, friends +167dB Golf was ridiculous Some spl testing with Janiq99 Friends video of my Punto
  41. 1 point
    For stock electrical, stock head unit, a used enclosure out of another build, and a pair of 10s ... that think will beat your brains out !!!
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    New videos Subwoofer deathmatch: Subwoofer box paint: Peak SPL score test: Punto battery bank, 3000F Maxwell caps and 480Ah Winston lithium: Friends Pride build update:
  44. 1 point
    Continued with reinforcements Now is time to test what all this did to SPL score: Next some paint, U-Pol Raptor Liner And of course another SPL test, 1.24dB gain Friends projects: 9x15" 36000W, DD Audio & Soundigital 4x15" 25000W, Pride Audio
  45. 1 point
    These speakers are designed to sound the best aimed up like this or hanging from the wall up high by the TV. I think you can put them behind you too. I am going to get some good content and then try both ways to see what works best for my living room.
  46. 1 point
    in the very first post I mentioned my equipment is in my signature 1 Fi SP4 18" .v2 Sundown SCV3k @.5 Ohms XS D3100 up front Northstar SMS AGM 400 in the back All XS Power 0ga OFC 240a Apex h/o alternator Pioneer AVH-X2500BT HU Dual 0ga runs from the alt to battery Dual 0ga runs from battery to amp
  47. 1 point
    The DD1 is a useful tool for setting gain levels because it is helpful to have a reference if you want to play at full output. But that's all it is, just a reference. Some transient peaks can be played just fine without clipping, and others cannot. It all depends on the equipment, the crossover frequencies, impedance rise etc. every system is different in this regard. Too many variables to say that any song won't clip at full output unless the gains are set conservatively. Usually amplifiers will be over sized to provide tons of head room to prevent clipping while never playing them near max output. A 100w amp at half power will generally sound better than a 50w amplifier at full output. So at the end of the day it is up to the operator of the system to know to turn it down a little when the system complains.
  48. 1 point
    Couple things to watch out for. With long boxes like these, not having a center wheel support can become an issue when loaded. Also look at the drawer load cap. 30lbs per isnt very much
  49. 1 point
    There are many songs straight off a CD from the store louder than -5db. There are many more songs straight off a CD from the store that are about -10db on average. This is whats suggested to use, -10db, numerous times by SMD/Tony for the general user. Now if you are strictly playing stuff I mess with, I suggest -5db because the average loudness is closer to -5db and you will have a safer setting. It will be quieter than using -10db/-15db when using -5db the gain will be lower. I'm also taking into account that many folks are going to be playing at/under tuning, which can result in a HUGE loss of thermal handling. When I use the dd-1 for my system I use -5db. Without stepping outside my bounds, I would never suggest -15db for anyone playing rap/hiphop/dubstep/decaf/pimpn. It's simply too quiet and doesn't align with the average music loudness of the genres. Meade has always utilized Gain Overlap... some googling should satisfy curiosities, but this is because he knows limits, knows what doesn't sound right and has well made equipment that can take abuse. Before the DD-1, it was most common to be told to set gain with a DMM and a [email protected] tone or get an oscope. 0db for SPL Burp amps because you use 0db tones on the CD to burp... any tone used to set the gain that's quieter than 0db means when you play a 0db tone you will be into clipping (which some competitors do on purpose to achieve more power among other things, keep in mind the amp only does that for 3-5seconds MAX) So this brings me to an overall idea that the DD-1 has created for end users. MUSIC IS NOT STAGNATE, ITS DYNAMIC. There is no perfect gain setting, period. There is no EQ setting that works best with all songs in the same genre, let alone different genres. The best thing you can do is use an average of most songs you will play and set the gain with that, which is what the DD-1 does. You should also be proactive with your sub level, EQ, and volume knob and have a volt meter so you can use all info in conjuction to decide when you've turned it up too loud. In lamens terms, find the loudest you can turn it up and always play it quieter than that, lol You have no idea what you are talking about. There are thousands of songs louder than anything I have and they are a shit ton more clipped, any argument you make is moot. Before I ever starting messing with music there were just as many guys frying amps and blowing subs, maybe even more so because people thought they could play any music safely before looking at it first. I don't ask a single person to play the songs I mess with but I will ask users to know the limits of your specific setup... thats most important
  50. 1 point
    what kind of vehicle does the op have?..i could do pretty nice hair tricks out of my old impala with 2 12'' aq hdc3s runnin off of saz3500 its all about the box and imo aero ports are the way to go but allot of people here dont listen
×
×
  • Create New...