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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/24/20 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    That's what I like about you @1point21gigawatts , you're humble. Always willing to do a good deed and not even need credit just kidding around. No but for real, dope numbers! Dope enclosure, clean install. On point! Hope mine comes out half that good.
  2. 3 points
    I absolutely love my new setup, all most complete. Still love how low it plays
  3. 3 points
    Drop the drama, keep answers to the original post. Next person who tries to poke the stick is going on vacation. No, I don't care who started it. RMS = root-mean-square = average voltage under a sine wave. Remember integrals? Think about it. It'll come to you. Square waves will carry a higher RMS but will not carry a higher peak voltage, ergo there is no increase in motor force to the driver. Additionally, periodic DC contamination at the top and bottom of the wave will change the inductive behavior of your driver. Big tl;dr power from clipping / sawtooth wave =/= power from a clean sine wave. You can fudge the numbers higher by clipping but it won't translate into real world usability, and I would argue would even be a determent. Now there IS a standard of rating power established by the consumer electronics association (CEA) which theoretically means it will output rated. But you'll often find that the magic logo and claims can be falsely applied to products. Higher end equipment often won't carry it since it's a moot point - word of mouth advertising, independent tests, no point. And add to that, many cheaper amps just stick big meaningless numbers on the box to deceive consumers who don't know any better to make a sale. All that to say.... Your question regarding amplifier ratings doesn't really have any straight answer. Regarding the dd-1, it detects distortion based on an ideal sine wave as a reference point. Not all amplifiers will work with this due to either signal delivery or how they handle signal processing. Regarding your gain, it's a ratio of input voltage to output voltage. It is NOT a volume knob. Half gain is not half volume. Example: Amplifier has a maximum clean output voltage of 50v RMS or ~71v peak to peak (dictated by the power supply of the amplifier). With an input voltage of 3v, you would need that ratio to be 23.7:1. Since it's just a potentiometer with no fine labeling or detents, and there is a great degree of variability in input signal strength, trying to do any sort of math here would be an act of futility. That's where the dd-1 comes in. It helps you find the appropriate setting for your individual setup. As a point of note, you can turn up the gain past this and get higher readings on your multimeter sure. But you can't exceed the power supply constraints of your amplifier. You can't pull 100v out of a 71v power supply, so the equipment response will be to clip - to flatten out the top of the sine waves, which presents the issues I mentioned above.
  4. 3 points
    I’m thinking about running like 8 of them in a 6th order enclosure and getting another taramps md12000.1 on my next build. They are good subwoofers. But it’s the enclosure that matters most when comparing subwoofers, amp and enclosure. A subwoofer enclosure is what “truly” generates the sound. In car audio, a vehicle’s electrical is the most important and the second most important is the subwoofer enclosure.
  5. 3 points
    So now that we got a lot of the time consuming things out of the way we moved onto my beauty panel and my electrical. Brad really wanted me to take the beauty panel all the way up to the roof and wall it completely off but I was hell bent on leaving a space for me to see out my back window and staying in no wall class if I did decide to compete. Looking back on things today I wish I would have walled it into a big rounded forward facing kerf going into the roof. But I'm still definitely happy with how things turned out this way. I still might do that down the line though. Everything turned out great and I got to work hand and hand with Brad on the electrical to learn a lot of really good stuff. There's been a lot of things I've learned during this build to where I wont have to have someone else do for me next time. I'm definitely a hands on guy...
  6. 3 points
    The idea of a "short" ground is to make sure it's as close to the same length as the positive cable. Since you are using the chassis (normally) for a ground you have to add that length + the wire length. You actually would have to map out the path it takes to the battery and add the wire length to that. So it could be significantly longer than the positive wire (or shorter too). I have zero idea how to do that though. If you were to run a ground back to the battery it would be just fine. Just super not necessary in most cases since the chassis IS a ground so you would be wasting money and wire. 18" isn't arbitrary, but it's also not a super specific number either. If your ground is 19" long and you cut it back to 18" you don't magically fix anything but you could be in a scenario where 18/19" does cause an issue and shortening it significantly can help. I would suspect that poor wire terminations and/or grounding locations are a much bigger issue with most people installs than how long their ground wire is.
  7. 3 points
    @never knows best, dude you been on this forum since 2014 and haven’t won any days, which tells me you aren’t helping people on here, which tells me you aren’t the most knowledgeable and helpful on car audio and are just an opinion giver and a hype man on this forum to collaborate with people who are knowledgeable and helpful on car audio. Make some weird Keebler elf noises and go play in your cookies while the grownups talk car audio.
  8. 3 points
    Got a little done. Door panels off. Removed most of the old wiring for fresh wires. Sprayed two coats of spectrum and started to brush a layer on also. Didn't want to stop but life
  9. 3 points
    see stuff like this wants me to blow my money and start a project lol maybe if i make a budget ill be able too
  10. 3 points
    I finally got to start on the enclosure. 8 sheets of 3/4" mdf. The large panels were cut with skill saw and a guide.
  11. 2 points
    Got this bad mammajamma today. Getting ever so close! If anyone has any tips, tricks, or any info/ do's & don'ts about going lithium that I might not know, any info is always appreciated!
  12. 2 points
    This is my red volks tiguan 4wd with a turbo. It has four skar EVL 15s in a cpillar wall on taramps 8k @1ohm, mids on taramps HD3k @2ohm 153.7db in the passenger kick sealed score USACI placed 3rd modified 10k class, 1st place the show before that. but before we get into my stuff, my friend got her cherry popped on two dc audio 20ks on four dc audio level 5s 18" in a blowthrough. chevy s10.
  13. 2 points
    This build has been in the works for almost 6 years. I am now doing it WOOT! Been piece by piece like the Johnny Cash song "One Piece at a Time". Yes some of it is classic gear now just like me lol. Which is why the M.L.C. (Mid Life Crisis) as this is what the wife calls it. It is what old men do to relieve their younger days. I did some of it awhile back just to have some tunes. Will have to pull most of it back out for the full build. 2000 chevy Suburban HU Kenwood DNX574S Mclaren MDSP-15 processor speakers Front 2 Planet Audio BB625C Rear Boston se 60 6.5" mid bass Planet Audio PLPC8.4 subs 12 Hifonics HIFI12D4 Amps mids/highs/midbass 2 McLaren D500.4 sub amp 2 Taramp 3k's optima red top under hood 2 XS XP50 back 5 gallons Second Skin spectrum SHCA wires and miscellaneous SMD speaker terminal Enclosure is a EZ DB's Designs 21.77ft tuned to 30.5hz
  14. 2 points
    My worst fear about mounting my subs has been the drill slipping & hitting the surround. I introduce to you my friends The Speaker Saver! Made from cast aluminum this product comes with a lifetime limited warranty. It promises to protect your rubber surround while you drill your pilot holes. Not only am I the president but I am also a client. It’s just a cheap pan from Walmart, good day people!!
  15. 2 points
    That enclosure you have now looks good. Custom built. Don’t buy a prefab enclosure. Them prefab enclosures that are built to specs on certain subwoofers seem like the way to go, but them subwoofer enclosure recommendations aren’t always correct and they don’t factor in rms or cabin area. And most subwoofer enclosure recommendations don’t even correctly factor in the t/s parameters when it comes to the enclosure recommendations. Now when a company has minimal information about what the customer is gonna do with a product then they recommend something average and safe, no matter the factors, in regards said product. So that leaves too many variables unattended to. That’s why it is ALWAYS best to get a subwoofer enclosure designed and built according to you vehicle and car audio system.
  16. 2 points
    Old thread got locked since it’s like 4 years old...lol I've expanded though. Contains the following: Traxxas Maxx (not the X-Maxx) Traxxas TRX-4 2 Traxxas Slash 2wd 1 Traxxas Slash 4wd ARRMA Kraton EXB ARRMA Talion ARRMA Typhon Traxxas Summit Traxxas UDR (ultimate desert racer) Traxxas 4-tec 2.0 Axial Wraith (maybe, it was used) 2 trailers
  17. 2 points
    I might look like an idiot... but I'm not going to front...I might have to use this technique
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Updated progress on box Needing to figure out how to best upload my progress images on here.
  21. 2 points
    That engine is such a beauty. I also love the idea of the sun-glass holder. I'm going to steal this idea for a fan rocker switch. Cheers!
  22. 2 points
    Remember when I showed you the doors? This was the plan. Check it out before it gets upholstery.
  23. 2 points
    I was told by someone who talked to someone at Incriminator Audio about their IA30.1 which also has dual inputs and calls for a 400 amp fuse. What I was told was if you're using a fused distribution block, 2 200 amp fuses would work. If you're using an unfused distro block, use a 400 amp fuse before the block for a single amp. I would assume the BC-4k would be the same deal
  24. 2 points
    https://resizeimage.net/viewimg/guQTLMaNPSxczbbZ/cmA7w/20200911_204948.jpg https://resizeimage.net/viewimg/TmWySw0WtnceDjX2/LS6oe/20200911_204916.jpg
  25. 2 points
    I’ve been as low as 18hz in the rear to as high as 30hz....front port has been as low as 37hz to as high as 70hz.... what a lot of people don’t know is with a series 6th order when you raise or lower the tuning of either port it effects the other port...I.e when I raise the rear tuning it raises the front tuning slightly and vice verse....same withe lowering tuning
  26. 2 points
    Yeah....I’ve learned the bigger I make the front port I lose output between the upper and lower tuning frequencies....I.e my 23hz tuning and 47hz tunings don’t lose output but the valley of frequencies between those to tunings drops as much as 5db depending on size...10in rear port is the largest I’ve went...previously had a 8in and a 6in with 8in being the loudest but 10in sounding the best overall
  27. 2 points
    Rear chamber is 15 cuft Net tuned to 23hz with a 10in aero port(Big ass port) but has been shrunk to 13.9....front chamber is 22 cuft net...but has been shrunk to 19 cuft net....I’ve had it since 2016 and have swapped rear ports sizes and tunings 9-10 times and front port about 15 times ranging from as large as 400sq in to as small as 169 sq in to get it dialed in to what it is today....does a 155+ from 18hz -58hz with its peak in the 30s([email protected] 34hz) usable 150+ db bandwidth is 16hz-63hz
  28. 2 points
    This beautiful beast heading to A customer today. Laser engraved logo designed and zapped here at SMD HQ for @mechman_alts ...been doing these for them all summer long (the pulleys too) and i love every minute of it. Feels good seeing a brand new unit fully assembled and ready to go! We have done thousands already so if you get one and it looks like this, ya’ boy (me) touched it! Im doing 4 400’s in my Tahoe (they arrive tomorrow) with an all new SMD quad bracket (almost finished) stay tuned!
  29. 2 points
    You can't really compare one battery chemistry to another by the ah rating alone.
  30. 2 points
    Not trying to be rude at all, but next time you have a question, or if you have any follow up questions, please make sure they are placed in the correct sub category. Thus particular question, I would have asked it in the mids and highs sub. Gotta keep scrolling until you find the right one
  31. 2 points
    Took advantage of labor day sales and snagged some more needed pieces. Slowly but surely, picking up all the pieces I need. I'm itching to start!
  32. 2 points
    Didn’t connect the baffles yet so I can connect braces to one of the baffles and the connect the baffles and then connect the double baffle and braces at the same time. Not the prettiest cuts. Jigsaw cuts, no sanding. Cut the cuts snug on the first cut. I was stoked about that because that’s what I was trying to do. I usually just intentionally cut the cut out smaller and sand fit them. But I didn’t want to do that on these heavy subwoofers and it was getting dark.
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    Hi Miles, I'll share what I know, have lived, built, and continue to learn from even after forty plus years of fun and games in audio... To paper and pencil engineer out the dimensions for a ported, n-th order bandpass, or even sealed enclosure is a topic far beyond one response in a thread. It's a headache of math, physics, and rechecking your math over and over. The good news is there's a proliferation of box software out there and all one has to do is search online for it. Parts Express used to sell a variant on BoxCad for about one hundred dollars or so however I'm not sure if they still do. I used to use free boxware called "Win ISD" however it was limited to simple ported and sealed enclosures and was available back in the days of Windows XP. I have no complaints at all about it and it worked for me. What you want to look out for with Box Software: Can you manually enter the T/S (Thiele/Small ) parameters for a given speaker or are you constricted to only what comes with the software and is available through some kind of licensing agreement you may or may not be receptive to ? Is it limited to only sealed, ported, and what kinds of enclosures are available ? Is there a "freeware" version you can try before you buy ? Better news: Most car audio speaker companies will have a recommended box design you can use directly or enter the dimensions into your boxware of choice to get an idea as to what kind of an enclosure you want to work around or to given the dimensions of your vehicle and expected frequency response curve. It is all in the response curve (Also called a "bode plot") as to what you hear however pay attention to the cone resonance (Fs) of the speaker as putting a little woofer in a big box with a sewer pipe sized port long as your arm probably won't yield "gobs O bass" rather a blown speaker suffering an out of control cone. Must haves: Tools: A table saw, plunge router, circle cutting guide for the router, shop vac and dust catcher, good solid drill/driver , builder's square, speed square, vise clamps, screw clamps, bar clamps all go a long way. Yes it represents a huge out of pocket investment however if you want in this hobby and intend on building boxes the investment is best made at the start. Yes it's cheaper to order a generic ported or sealed box that may or may not work best with your speakers. What I've found is 3/4" MDF, 2 x 4"s ripped into 2" x 2" for internal bracing at every seam, construction screws every six inches at every seam, and construction adhesive are by far the best. Even a modest sized box can be a boat anchor using this stuff however one can't beg, borrow, buy, steal, swap or swindle a more airtight enclosure. Pre drilling holes for the screws and countersinking them also prevents the internal braces from splitting. Practice, practice, practice. Run some scrap lumber through your table saw and cut some circles to dimensions using your plunge router to get used to how they feel and what to expect. Speaker building is by no means a spectator sport. Learn how to use a "push stick" with a table saw as NO speaker box is worth lost fingers. It also does not hurt to be willing to screw things up, learn from your mistakes, and laugh at yourself. Best, JohnP
  35. 2 points
    finally caught a break and got some new wheels and tires.its getting there hellcat reps and pirelli tires
  36. 2 points
    because you slathered it in wood glue, it won't be a weak point so good call there. and everything mr. Gigawatts said is correct, you should be GTG
  37. 2 points
    There’s isn’t a pole vent on the bottom of that subwoofer’s magnet, the vents are on the sides of the magnet. So, it doesn’t have to be a certain distance away from the wood in reference to the bottom of the subwoofer’s magnet and the wood it’s close to. This is because it doesn’t need any room to breath on that part of the magnet since there isn’t a pole vent there. As long as you can screw the subwoofer in the cutout, it’s fine. And don’t put anything in that enclosure except for that subwoofer, no poly-fil or cotton or whatever because them vent poles on the side of that subwoofer’s magnet needs to breathe well.
  38. 2 points
    Yup you are right my dude. Had like a 26” ground was only seeing like 13.8and it would drain low to like 13.2 made the new ground 12” or so and it sit pretty at 14.8 and barely moves
  39. 2 points
    LOL. Thank you. I was definitely held to a tight budget. You can still deal with life and still do the things you love. Some of us takes longer to reach those dreams.
  40. 2 points
  41. 2 points
  42. 2 points
    To be very honest about it. I was not expecting these 8's to do this. Even with deadening the back wall rattle was bad.
  43. 2 points
    Instead of 2 1/0 gauge feeds, only do 1 because that smart 3 only needs one 1/0 gauge positive feed from the back battery positive positive post to the fuse block and then to the amp. Then you would have to do a 4 gauge feed coming from the positive post of the battery to the fuse block then to the speaker amp. Because the speaker amp, plus the subwoofer amp together would pull a bit more current that one 1/0 ofc wire can handle, so there has to be 2 runs coming from the back battery, one 1/0 gauge run and one 4 gauge run.
  44. 2 points
    I know it’s off topic but it’s on point. Go deaf bonce!
  45. 2 points
  46. 2 points
    Checkout how well the CNC did for these little things.
  47. 2 points
    Finally a shot of it playing! However, ripping it out today...Moving the amps into the center console, and redoing the box. Also taking the truck in to get bagged, so I need to remove the system anyway!
  48. 2 points
  49. 2 points
    Haha I seen the wallet one before! I got lots... But don't wanna blow them all at once....
  50. 2 points
    That’s crazy. How can 2 15” subwoofers on a taramps smart 3 do numbers like that on a regular bass reflex enclosure? Whoever designed that subwoofer enclosure must be really good at designing enclosures to generate the sound that the person wants out of it. I wanna meet that guy. He must be so awesome. I wish I was more like him. Lol!

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