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  1. i just built up a 12" Fi Xv3 sub/box for home use. sweet sub for the $
    2 points
  2. 2018 Harley Davidson Ultra Custom Stereo Build This was the last bike I've owned. I was really happy with how the whole bike came out, but I was especially happy with how the stereo system build came out. I sold this bike in late 2019 as the startup I was working for folded up almost over-night and putting some money back in the bank became a priority, then the Zombie Apocalypses hit and and saving / having a nice cushion kind of stayed the priority. I really wanted to buy another bike this spring/summer but (again because of the Zombie Apocalypses) bike prices/availability are just stupid. Maybe next year things will have leveled out some Anyway, I spent a while day-dreaming up the build and this is what I ended up going with: Sony XAV-AX100 Head unit. This unit, while not explicitly listed as marine grade, is/was one of the best units for this application. There are YouTube videos of people dousing it with a water hose and it never misses a beat. I threw down a fair number of miles/hours wet-weather riding and the HU was flawless. Rockford Fosgate DSR1. I did a little EQ work with it, but it was mostly so I could easily run the 2-way bat-wing faring speakers active with the 6.5s setup with a bandpass filter and high-pass for the tweeters. Rockford Fosgate TM400X2ad 200x2 RMS amp to run the front 6.5s DD Audio D4.75 micro amplifier (only 2 channels used to drive the tweets) Rockford Fosgate HD amplifier installation kit (mostly for the front fairing mounting bracket and heatsink bracket) A pair of Rockford Fosgate PM100X1Ks (they really work, I was very happy with them) Scosche HDSWC2 handle bar integration unit SCOSCHE HD14UDDBN batwing fairing double-din kit DD Audio AW6.5s for the batwing DD Audio T2A tweets for the batwing Infinity Kappa 60.11CS 6-3/4" Components (I liked these because the woofers have a dust cap to help with weatherproofing and the grills are made so the tweets can be snapped in so there was no need for grill fabrication for the trunk speakers) Stinger SPX925-HD AGM battery Once I had all the stuff, it only took a couple of days from start to finish. The system got LOUD and was crystal clear. Over the ~20k miles I put on the bike, I never encountered riding conditions that could drown out the sound. I didn't get great build-log pics as I was working on getting it in so I could ride, but I got several decent pics of what it's like trying to force 45lbs of gear into a 10lb bag LoL My 3-legged cat enjoyed supervising the project: You can just BARELY make out the 4 gauge B+ line in the lower right of this picture. Both the B+ and the ground runs went from the battery up to a distro block under the fairing: Here are a few shots of installing the detachable trunk amps/crossovers/speakers: You can see the spacers I had to fab up to get the depth I needed for the trunk speakers. I routed them out of expanded PVC: Here's what the trunk looked like once it was done: I never had an issue with the passive Rockford amps overheating and there was a very significant difference between just HU rear channel output and with these hooked up. I will say, they are picky about their ground. I ended up having to run a 12-gauge (1 wire for both amps) run straight to the ground post of the battery to clean up the sound. Here are a couple of shots of how the Sony HU went in along with the grills I fabricated. I dremeled out the tweeter mounting holes out of the metal grills and then routed the tweeter leads down the inside of the grill straight down wrapped in thin black closed cell foam. In direct sunlight if you were looking for it you could tell the wires were there, but somebody that didn't build or spend a lot of time with the bike would likely not notice. Luckily, the way the grills are mounted on these bikes are actually decoupled from the speakers leaving enough room to not worry about about the tweeter wiring interfering with the woofer surrounds: And here are the shots of all that equipment crammed into the nose of the bike: Here's starting to button it up making sure all the RCA interconnects are sealed with heat shrink and packing possible trouble spots with hot glue: And here is the bike all buttoned back up: My tripod cat approves: All in, I really liked the bike. I went with the HD Stage IV high HP motor kit, their dynamic tuner, Vance & Hines High Output 450 slip ons, the Agitator front wheel, CVO style rear fender and bags, 10" bars and a ton of other bobbles and bolt ons. Hell, even posting this build-log really gives me the itch to go buy a bike tomorrow but I told myself I would wait until next calendar year. I think I might would go with a very similar build to this bike and then get it wrapped a gloss grey color maybe. The bike before this one was a CVO street in Gunship Grey and I was painfully in love with that bike. Had to sell that one to bail out a family member going through an ugly divorce (ain't life grand?). Anyhow - hope you guys like the build and would love to hear what you would have done differently.
    2 points
  3. and the Fi sub sounds really good. net is 1.0 cu ft. my mains are the Polk tsx 110b, im running them off a 100 watt per channel Onkyo nice little speakers for $200.. https://www.whathifi.com/us/polk-audio/tsx110b/review
    1 point
  4. yah, i know, theyre shitty pics got the 6" dry carbon, its nice in person!
    1 point
  5. It's my understanding that there really is only the American Wire Gauge size as far as an industry standard, but it is sort of the wild west when it comes to strand count. As far as car audio cable goes, it actually way exceeds AWG as far as size goes as well. The only way to move more amperage more efficiently, and beat out your competitors wire, is more copper which equals bigger cable.... but they still call it 1/0.
    1 point
  6. No you are exactly right about the electrical. I was just trying to buy the most expensive things first, amp/subs and get everything hooked up, and not play at high volumes until I get the proper electrical. With that being said I will be calling audio shops around to see what they charge for the converters or what not. Or how they will go about the process. Nothing is hooked up yet. I’m just on a budget and want to get the most expensive stuff out of the way first. With a little motivational bump for the time being. The alternator will cost around 400$ and that is the least compared to the amp and subs+ box. I will look into the converters you’ve listed I greatly appreciate your comment.
    1 point
  7. So nobody ever likes to hear it, but my biggest suggestion would be to upgrade your alternator, batteries, big 3 and a grip of OFC cable before trying to drop a 4k amp into a car with stock electrical. With that out of the way, Sundowns are great, but there are other options out there. Fi comes to mind, but I know they have had to dial manufacturing back pretty hard due to the state of the world, but there are quite a few people here that have nothing but great things to say about them. As for the Gately box, they are definitely quality. I would make sure the box fits your ride (you may be able to reach out them and ask?) and then pick your subs based on the box volume and port tuning as that will give you the best results. $700 is high for a box, but those boxes are stack-fabbed out of Baltic Birch (which is ridiculously expensive right now) and every inch of their enclosures scream quality. You could build a custom box designed for your subs if you had access to the tools and the time to build it for less than that, but it's probably going to be hard to find someone that will build a custom box that's in the same league as a Gately box for less than that. As for the stock HU, there may be something like a PAC or NavTV or Maestro plug and play solution that gets you clean and flat pre-amp level outputs. You'll just have to poke around on the internet (or call a shop) and see what options are out there. If that's not an option, you can go the LOC or DSP route. If you go with a Line Output Converter - get something like an Audio Control LC6i. If you go the DSP route, there are a ton of options out there and it will give you a lot of functionality. Hope this helps and can't wait to hear how things go as you work on the build.
    1 point
  8. Pics or it didn't happen lol. No, but seriously, how does it sound? Pics would be dope too
    1 point
  9. I really want to understand this completely, excuse me if these are dumb questions. What is circular mill? Is that another term for a buss bar? My cable I'm using is something like 5400+ strands of OFC copper. Considered 1/0 in, for lack of a better term, "car audio terms". It always kind of seems to me that welding cable, where it is pure copper, to carry the same amperage as my 1/0, if need 2/0 awg welding cable. And voltage drop is defined by the wires resistance and the current in the system. I get that, so the current of the system=battery+alternator right? And the resistance would be coming from the wire used. If you answer, I probably will have follow up questions because I enjoy talking car electrical distribution for some odd reason
    1 point
  10. You will but if you want maximum loud a new box with the back seat out may be in your future. Focusing on that port. Home made aero ports too.
    1 point
  11. Well to make it easy if you don't increase spl in full db amounts clamping 2000 more watts you will no it's lack of sufficient port area or over excursion.
    1 point
  12. Well, my port area is going to be 45.5 in2 and 330 in2 Just messing around, you accidentally quoted me on that one lol
    1 point
  13. Thank you bro. My door is a bit different with the handle being underneath my arm rest, but those do look nice! I think I want to attach the wood straight to the metal of the door, then glass onto the plastic. I feel like with the weight of the 8's, it'll help with rigidity and any rattling that might occur. Though there are some good wood working tips in there. At the end, he said he ran into some issues....I wish he mentioned what they where and how they fixed them oh well. But it's huge that that video showed how they secured it to the metal. I haven't been able to find that yet. Thank you again!
    1 point
  14. Are you playing the 4k track and get a "signal" light? I wouldn't touch any nobs, until you see a signal.
    1 point
  15. Throat Choking BASS! So Many Subs, SO MUCH POWER!
    1 point
  16. Yeah I doubt you’ll hear it unless you are in town. the fronts are MMats 6.5” and the rears are MMats 6x9. I had to cut out some of the speaker pod in the front the get these to fit and cut some of the adapter in the lids for the 6x9
    1 point
  17. No joke, at that price point, I feel like I could make $2k go a lot further in a competition bike. I'm sure they're selling them, but that is definitely steep. And on top of that it looks like you loose all of the bag space. I pack too much gear on my baggers to loose the saddle bags like that and I'm still skeptical that you could even hear them rolling down the road. Maybe I'll get lucky and get a chance to hear them in person. Glad to hear it on the MMats - which ones are you running in the front fairing?
    1 point
  18. I actually had to run the rear speakers wires to mine, the regular road glide doesn’t have rear speakers. But it came with the Rockford kit. the MMats soind pretty good, no real complaints. They sound A LOT better than the rockfords that came with the kit. as for the new Rockford subwoofer kit, at over $2k it’s a bit much for my taste.
    1 point
  19. My cousin and I grew up together and that's what we did, we took things apart and, sometimes, we where able to put it back together lol. I always took apart mine (and my mom's that one time ) stereo and my cousin.... well.... everything else hopefully he can find some time. I'll take a look around at the depot and see if they have anything. My last post, I mentioned it needs to be a sheet at least 15"×30" for me to get away with 1 sheet.... or maybe I can make it s little smaller and just cover some of the speaker with wood like an accent or something. Got the wheels turning lol. Looks like I'm not sleeping tonight
    1 point
  20. Have you seen fosgate came out with a subwoofer kit for the side bags on 2014 Harleys and up? I wonder how that would sound
    1 point
  21. Dude, you're the shit! Thank you for all the help! I was just watching three of the soundman episodes. Yeah, it seems like if you're doing something that weighs a much as I'm assuming my doors are going to weigh, I need a little more strength than just fiberglassing to the plastic door panel. I think I need to rethink my plan of attack. I reached out to my cousin who loves to do any type of fabrication to see if he'd want to help. I'm positive if he's on board, it'll get done. Right on about the speaker mesh. I was going to look on Amazon myself, but I was watching those soundman videos lol. The ones from speaker works would be perfect, but yeah, they're not wide enough and that one from Amazon would be great, but it's aluminum. I was going to attach the grills using magnets, but maybe I can think of/ find another method in youtube. And as far as aesthetic goes, in order of importance, it has to work and be strong, it has to sound good (full spectrum of sound, no rattling, all that good stuff), then it has to look good. So really, as long as I have the first 2, and it doesn't look like absolute shit, I'm happy. I want to go to home depot tomorrow to pick out some wood. Do you think (if they have it) 1/4" MDF, or birch would be fine? Or just stick to 3/8's or 1/2" MDF?
    1 point
  22. Thanks MrSkippyJ! The Road Glides are a lot easier (relatively speaking) as they do have more room under their shark-nose. I think the shark-nose fairing get's better overall bass response than the batwings as well, but I'm just a batwing kinda guy. I've been looking at the MMats since DD discontinued the AW6.5s and have heard good things about them. There seem to be a lot of people that go with Hertz as well. If you decide to trick out your trunk, those RF PM100X1Ks really do work. I set the whole thing up with an XT30 connector for the ground so it wasn't too hard to pull the trunk off. Those passive amps take an input from the head unit (which you already have in the trunk on the Ultras), have an output for the speakers and then need a solid ground connection and that's it. That said, it's kind of not a big deal if you already have the bag lid setup. I'm curious how the new Rockford Fosgate Harley Boom setups sound. The Boom setup on my CVO bike was really nice, but it just couldn't hold a candle to the system I installed in that black Ultra - both in volume and in sound quality (the boom system would crack and distort at high volume) plus having Android Auto on the head unit was really clutch.
    1 point
  23. Hey Audioin, Any chance you could convert the pics to JPEG/PNG/BMP format? The forum is able to display them as pics rather than files that have to be downloaded and then opened. I had to use the GIMP to view the pictures (as I haven't purchased the HEIF/HEVC extensions from the Microsoft store) A couple of thoughts: In the 1st picture I downloaded and opened in GIMP, it looked like the enclosures are independent sealed chambers that directly face one another. You will likely have issues with soundwave cancelation as the waves emitting from the subs will collide with each other potentially causing some weird audible anomalies. Rather than scrapping what you already have done, you might be able to do something like this: Above would be a top-down look. With an MDF (or whatever material) diffuser, the sound waves would travel out from the sub cones and then bounce off their perspective diffuser face essentially breaking up the path of the sound waves and preventing them from canceling each other out. I didn't download and open all of the files so I'm not sure what amplifiers you have, but the stock charging system in an '06 Accord doesn't have a lot of headroom in terms of available amperage. The good news is - it's a super popular car, so there are definitely options for you to go with an aftermarket high output alternator from somebody like Mechman or US Alternators (or whatever brand strikes your fancy). Without upgrading your alternator no amount of OFC or extra batteries will safeguard you against voltage drop. As soon as your voltage starts dropping below 12 your amps will be prone to clipping which can/will in turn damage your subs. Also, when you tune your sub amps, use a voltage meter on the speaker outputs (without speakers connected) while playing a test tone to match your gains. Ideally you would use something like a DD-1 to set both amp gains (or if the amplifiers have a clip indicator you can use that), then take a voltage reading of the A/C output of both amps and then lower the gain on which ever one is higher to match the voltage output of the other amp. While not impossible, it is highly unlikely both will have identical output. Gain matching the amps like this will help balance the sub stage and again help prevent weird audible anomalies. As for turning the trunk into a 4th order enclosure, that more or less happens by default. Technically it would actually be something like a 6th order starting with the sealed boxes, then the trunk acting as the 4th order and the cabin acting as the 6th order. With that said, there is no reason you couldn't play around with port lengths to try and tune it to your liking. Maybe set the port that passes through into the cabin where it can be adjustable. It is next to impossible to try and model the entire car to achieve a specific tuning frequency from the trunk into the cabin in a setup like this, but there are a lot of leavers you tweak to adjust the sound. Rather than plasti-dip / flex tape etc - take a look at a seam sealer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dynatron-550-Auto-Sealer-Caulk/dp/B005RNFBMC it's designed for sealing up sheet metal in automotive applications and is pretty easy to work with. After that, so long as you don't care about folding down your back seats you could wall directly behind the back seats only leaving the port pass-through open for the port that would come through the arm wrest. Once you seal the trunk seams, you could consider fiberglassing the trunk to add a little strength and sealing, but before going that far, maybe just sound deaden the hell out of it which will focus the sound energy through the port into the cab. For that matter, sound deaden every inch of sheet metal you can find in the car and that will help focus all of the sound energy resulting in more volume. I know that's a lot, but hopefully it helps!
    1 point
  24. Looks nice man! I had a bit of an easier time since my Road Glide's fairing has an easier place to mount an amp. I did the rockford bag lid kit but I am running all MMats speakers in my bike. I left my tour pack empty though, mostly because I really only use in on longer trips.
    1 point
  25. So yeah.... maybe it will work At this point, I could use any and all tips any of you have a far as placement, a plan, how to cut, what to cut.... anything! I'm starting to feel very overwhelmed.
    1 point
  26. +1 on make sure you have a fresh battery (and preferably a Duracell or Energizer) Double check the track(s) you are playing and make sure your signal is clean. Outside of that if it keeps wigging out, try reaching out to support from D'Amore Engineering - you can shoot them an email here: [email protected] Hop that helps.
    1 point
  27. There's no reason it shouldn't work. All i can think of is try changing the battery. When the battery gets low, the machine does weird stuff. I'm sure you already tried that though... other than that, it should work on any amplifier
    1 point
  28. So am I lol. I sadly just sat in the front seat staring at the subs in the mirror even though it was 100 at the time lol. Pretty lame Worth it for this old fart lol
    1 point
  29. Thank you. Not the normal way I don't think but it worked lol. Now to work on the trim panel for the enclosure and adding fans to circulate air.
    1 point
  30. Appreciate y’all’s time!
    1 point
  31. A steady hand and fiberglassing skills
    1 point
  32. Line driver wont help at all. I used to be on another car audio forum and i guy that was into spl tested the idea with zero improvement.
    1 point
  33. Yeah, the wife and I are trying to save money to take the kids to Disneyland for my daughter's 5 th birthday in October.... though I'm still spending dough on my truck like I've got it about to try my hand at fiberglassing my doors.... I'm going to fail miserably should be good for a laugh or two. I'm definitely going to post it all in my build log so everyone can laugh at me lol. Looking at pictures and clips from the sky high bbq, that place was popping! I've got family that lives in that area, maybe next year I'll talk the wife into "visiting the family"
    1 point
  34. Not even close lol Not to hijack the thread, but how you been? Long time no see on the forum.
    1 point
  35. Me too but you said a dyno showed a 20k doing only 12k and I was like nahh no way that's a Crossfire lol
    1 point
  36. I actually thought he was referring to crossfire and wondering why I couldn't find the amp or subs.... then I looked it up on YouTube.
    1 point
  37. Looks like another fly-by-night Chinese build house company. Not too mention the name XFire is similar to a shortened Crossfire which is an actual beast brand
    1 point
  38. No way I'll be building the box myself, I'll leave this to a buddy who specialises in this stuff. I'll buy the car probably in the next month or two, depends if I can find a well looked after one. Fun times indeed! Thank you once again, really appreciate all your help! I really have an idea on what to look for.
    1 point
  39. But it says 1400 watts? They can't just lie. Watch, it'll slap
    1 point
  40. Got the inverter,lights hardwired to the dash lights,the DSP and the plugs all wired up. Pretty happy with the look of it. Just wished that the headliner didn't pull apart on me. I plan on redoing the console later to make a better and cleaner look.
    1 point
  41. Some progress on the console finally. This isn't the best but it is all done by me at least. Got way out of comfort zone with this sewing. I did many hours of trial and error but still messed up. Happy for now. The lights are much dimmer in person than on the camera. Oh I also used a dense foam that I forgot the name of. To smooth out the transition from the dash to the console and the front to the back section.
    1 point
  42. Today, I got a little done. My truck interior plastic is all back together and all the speaker wire is torn out. I decided to start on messing with my doors. I started by taking off the door panel again. I'm tired of brackets breaking lol. Oh well. First picture I ripped off the existing fiberglass speaker pods from my old build. Literally, just ripped them off lol. Second picture I made a stencil of that area out of sticky sticker paper my wife has for her arts and crafts. I'll transfer it over to thick cardboard once I'm finished. That colored part at the top is where my glove box comes down. With the old pods, I couldn't open my glove box while the door was closed and that always pissed me off. I've got to cover the hole in the door panel, but it will be a flat as I can make it so I can use my glove box. Third picture is of some stencils I made of my 8's. I didn't want to try to fit where the 8's where going to go with the actual speaker so I made those. If be livid if I was trying screw with my door and something happened to my speaker lol. Right now, I'm working on 4 more stencils for the tweeters as well. I have no idea what I'm doing, I'm just winging it lol. Any pointers, tips, or put downs are always welcomed.
    1 point
  43. On the note of CCA (Coper Clad Aluminum) vs OFC (Oxygen Free Copper). I saw this video years ago and it really stuck with me: Ignore the kicker branding stuff, the key is CCA vs OFC. Steve did a video with a larger amp and 1/0 wire. The CCA had a non-trivial increase in strand count and still lost out by over 300 watts: I made sure to use OFC for everything after seeing that 1st video. Just a thought
    1 point
  44. Looking at the specs, I believe you would be happy with about a 148 liter enclosure. That includes woofer displacement, but not port or bracing displacement. As for port tuning, somewhere between 28-32 would likely be the sweet spot. My enclosure is tuned to 28Hz and it feels like Put On by Young Jeezy was made for that tuning frequency. My next enclosure I will probably shoot for 32 Hz as I think that will fit my particular listening style better. If you would like to get a since of scale, here is an example box design provided by DD Audio: https://ddaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/15-4cuft.pdf It's a 4 cubic foot (113.267 Liter) enclosure for one of their 15s. I would think this could serve as a starting point, but I didn't see what frequency it's tuned to. Are you planning to build the enclosure yourself or have a shop build it for you? If you are having a shop build it, just tell them you want a 148L net enclosure tuned a XHz. If you are planning to build it yourself I can try to model up something in WinISD (or if you are comfortable using WinISD that's a good place to start for box size, port size and to model the output) Fun times! When do you anticipate getting the new car?
    1 point
  45. 1 point
  46. I read the manual. Is says nothing smaller than 4 gauge. So I wouldn't worry too much about it. And like you said, it's a short run. Should be fine. Maybe slap it for a while and go back and feel the amp to make sure it's not getting too hot, just to double check. But you should be fine. The 4 gauge is OFC right? On a side note, if it's CCA, I wouldn't recumbent downsizing the size. CCA can't handle as much current draw as OFC does. That might starve the amp
    1 point
  47. I'm not sure I'm happy yet with this. Was wanting to do something else, made some concessions and "forgot" some things that will require rework. It is up and running sans subwoofers right now. There was a surprising amount of bass without the subs, so thats a bonus. This is temporary as the Cleansweep is meant to be under the panels, but forgot to cut holes for wiring. Tried using my SHCA cables....they are horrible. switched back to these Blue Jeans custom cables...and shrill top end and hiss disappeared.
    1 point
  48. why not a saz4500 at 1 ohm? the only reason i would wire .5 is if i cant find a bigger amp. so a saz3500 at .5 vs a saz4500 1 ohm i would go with the saz4500
    1 point


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