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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/02/20 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
    In my garage/man cave... And @Ron36 I read on another post that you're a technician... So you might like the second picture... A buddy of mine cut that out with his laser for my garage bar.
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
  5. 3 points
  6. 3 points
    Some more pictures of where it currently sits now. Gonna shoot for getting the door panels at least partially done by tomorrow. The 2 channel I'm currently running for now cause of budgets n things you know Stock electrical minus the wiring 46hz port. I *attempted* to color match the wire i bought and didnt bring it with me to home depot, so obviously i fucked up but who cares. Can always repaint later. bitches is mounted. that rear woofer is a fucking NIGHTMARE to get in.
  7. 3 points
  8. 2 points
    Mods include magnaflow exhaust, full suspension lift with 33" tires and new wheels, BMC, bumper trim, full weld on sliders, skid plates, dark tint, blacked out emblems, LED interior lights and a few other odds and ends. But what y'all care about here more.... Kenwood excelon DMX907s headunit with idatalink maestro. double USB input replaced stock USB/Aux input. All doors and rear hatch speakers replaced with Kenwood KFC series speakers. DDaudio 10" (entry level 200 series) subs in the back with a DDaudio 500 watt rms amp installed under front passenger seat. Bass remote installed in the worthless cubby hole on dash. Stinger X, 4ga ultimate wiring kit and stinger 4000 RCAs. Quick disconnect added to subwoofer box with an XT60 connector. Makes removal quick and easy for when I need all the cargo room.
  9. 2 points
    I love this thread , Your Audio Addiction is back , It’s starts out just wanting a tiny bit more and moves to new box, battery , subs and amp, all of us on this site suffer from this addiction and it’s a great problem to have , your gonna love those SA’s , I’ve ran 3 for years on double the power and never had an issue.
  10. 2 points
    Yea im going to pick the box up in the morning. And will probably go with the SAs, even if they will be under powered. This box was deigned and used for SA subs originally anyways so its built and tuned for them subs. Thanks for all the help convincing me to do it... I posted here for encouragement
  11. 2 points
    DC, DD, Sundown, Skar , Ampere, Crossfire, Deaf Bonce, Incriminator, Cresendo, Rockford Fosgate, B2, Pride, all shit on JL.
  12. 2 points
    Well the build is done and sounds amazing can’t wait to finish breaking them in so I can go to 10 on that bass knob.
  13. 2 points
    Grounding to seatbelt bolts are weak grounds and your amp will run hot, clip easier, voltage won’t be as good and the amp will go into protect after playing awhile, quicker at higher volume, and then eventually the amp will fail. Bad grounding spot. Never ground to a seatbelt bolt. You can see that it’s just a little piece of metal welded to the chassis. You are just gonna be grounded to a little piece of metal welded to the chassis, which is a weak ground. For sure. Ground to a bolt that bolts the seats to the chassis (as long as it’s straight on the chassis and no pieces of metal welded before the chassis) if it’s hard to find a good factory bolt location and if you don’t want to drill and tap custom grounds. You have to always ground straight to the chassis or the frame. But in this case since you want a factory spot then the chassis is where you want to ground too. Plus, the shorter the ground, the better. The bolts that bolt the seats in on the ground of the cabin will be a perfect spot as long as it’s straight on the chassis.
  14. 2 points
    I'm back with a new build after YEARS of going almost bassless. Been looking forward to this for a while now, and finally got around to getting the gear together to do it. Still not completely done, as I still need an alt, more batteries and of course a proper amp to power these things. Otherwise, box is done and am currently fiddling with ports. Also, I'm a shit box builder, so PL and fiberglass is my friend (as you'll see). Here's hoping my handywork can hold up over time. Also, how the fuck did I have such nice detailed build logs back in the day? Christ I took pictures of everything. Now I start building and don't wanna be bothered to even check my phone let alone take fucking pictures. Anyway, here's what I've got. Vehicle: 2014 Scion TC Woofers: (3) Fi SP4v2 15's, dual 2 Enclosure: 4th order, 24 cubes (5.5 sealed, 14.2 ported) removable ports (46hz/52hz) Current Amp: CT Sounds 600.2 @ 3ohms bridged Wire: SHCA OFC 2/0 (Big 3 & 2 Positive runs), SHCA OFC 1/0 (3 Ground runs) HU: Kenwood double din (forgot model number lol) probably other shit I forgot to list Started the shell frame False Floor Totally regret not knowing/researching what a pocket jig was. Looking back, this split floor DEFINITELY needed some pocket holes to help compress during the adhesive drying stage. You'll see that, shortly after this, I learned about them and bought one. Had to split the false floor to maximize cabin space. rear chamber sides and back wall in roof drying roof in. This shit was HARD to get in by myself. front chamber roof in corners all closed off. Couldn't find the angles cause they were all off in every direction, so just PL'ed the fuck out of the corners and hoped for the best. Prepping rear chamber for baffle mounts/bracing test fitting the baff- uhhh oops Cutting the triple stack baffle holes. This circle jig is the SHIT! against better judgement but out of necessity, had to split the baffle. measure twice cut once. non mounting baffle was reduced to double layer to increase ported chamber airspace. All corner joints glassed nicely. Test fitting went great. split baffle completely assembled and PL'ed in place. Loading wall test fit and glued in place. Port #1 (52hz) Port #2 (46hz) Box face carpeted to hide my shitty workmanship :^) Also hit the inside of the box with kilz primer and Harbor freight roll on Truck bed coating. Disclaimer: you NEED a respirator if you're gonna use the harbor freight truck bed shit in an enclosed area like the inside of a box. Those fumes will knock out an elephant. started my redo on the door panels. shout out to HVCA for putting out awesome door panel build logs and showing me the proper way to get a base for door pods. door pods were formed to the door panel shape, the shaved down to size and will be attached to the panel via bolts/washers/nuts. and thats all the pictures I've got thus far. Got a show this sunday, so I'm trying to get as much done as I can. I'll snap some pictures of the amp installed and other wire run shit tomorrow.
  15. 2 points
    While you are correct, i had to add this because i love this woofer and cant wait to use one.
  16. 2 points
    I work on a lot of different cars and though I love U can’t say anything positive about your Malibu, accept I make a lot of money on them but the C300 is a good car and I don’t say that a lot . I would choose Mercedes over BMW anytime. My go to cars are Ford, Kia , Hyundai, and Toyota and that’s it I know it ant much but been a Master Tech for over 10yrs and I know what I see . When I get a GM I know it’s payday. There so basic and it’s just to easy sometimes I feel bad but U bought it not me. I know that Malibu is taken care of keep it up should be good. My mother in law drives an 09 Malibu I’ve done a lot of work to it but not what they normally need in big work because I put good oil in it they can be good cars .
  17. 2 points
    It has the Burmester system in it and once i tuned it i was a bit impressed with the sound. I have done some research and it could be better with a little love but there will be no plans to do that. 3.5" in the doors & 1" tweeters in the sail panel. Sound stage is nice and high on the dash. Rear doors are the same set up. 4" drivers under the dash.... ? The C-Class gets 13 speaker, a nine channel amplifier for a total of 590 watts. (7x50w) & (2x120w) for 8" bass driver that i might switch out at some point. The lowest frequencies are aided by Mercedes’ ‘frontbass’ technology, where the woofers are built into the front of the car body instead of the doors. The tech uses the driver and passenger footwells as acoustic horns to boost sound pressure. So the floor speakers sound like the could use upgraded. I found this wiring in the trunk and i knew it was a RF power & signal plugs. Wires were soldered they just put electrical tape on instead of heat shrink. Wires are coming from pre-amp side and power and ground seem to be run properly which tells me a shop did the work. I will clean it up some when the time comes. So since the wiring is there and i want to surprise the wife with a little bass but not take up to much of the trunk. I ordered this set up yesterday and got a smoking deal for it. Be here in about a week, i will have to sneak it in and not tell her about it, taking the car to the car wash dear... lol I thought about the 10" but the 12" was really close to the same cost and i know she likes her beats!
  18. 2 points
    So this build has been coming along better then I expected. Box was built by the awesome Dude over at cave audio a local shop near me. I’ve got no place to build it my self but no complaints. Gonna start with the wiring tomorrow. Thanks to 1point21gigawatts for the box specs and tuning.
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    All I know is the DC's better sound better. Lol
  21. 2 points
    2016 Toyota Sienna Limited Premium Sub: JBL Stadium 1224 Amp: NVX MVPA1
  22. 2 points
    If U blow those DC’s up these are dropins for that box and can handle way more then rated. DD 500 series 10’s, sorry I’m posting so much I get drunk while watching UFC fights and start running my mouth.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Saturday should be a big day for this truck. Im going out there to lend a hand and see what we come up with. Stay tuned. In the meantime here is a peek at the doors.
  26. 2 points
    That's as far as I got for now all I got to say is this thing is way nastier
  27. 2 points
    If you have plans to do another upgrade that is going to cost $600-700 plus box, I would skip this $500+ upgrade for a slight if any noticeable increase. Spend some on sound deadening and have you a big ass nice logo inside your trunk. No need to advertise your car for potential theft.
  28. 2 points
    got my stuff today. Seems like some good wire. Definitely loving this lime green color!
  29. 2 points
    No, he didn't read it wrong. I did say it should be two times the width of the port so as not to affect the tuning frequency. It has to be at least one port width away to keep from obstructing the airflow. Think about it this way. If the end of the port is exactly one port width away, it will extend the effective length of the port. You can use this to your advantage sometimes to get a longer port. You need to plan for it though. Here are some pics to show what I'm talking about. In this picture, you want the port to be 35-3/8" long, so that's what you sized your port panels for. However the port ends exactly one port width away from side panel, this effectively lengthens the port. The port length you actually end up with is about 38-1/2".
  30. 2 points
    After you guys begging pleading for almost 10 years, I finally finished the video on the Rockford Fosgate Power 650. This $1500 amp was made between 1984-1993 and at the time was in the middle of the lineup for the power series amps (prior to the Power 100HD, but we don't include that as a Power series anyway). The Power 650 is a four-channel amp rated to deliver: 125 watts x 4 channels at 4 ohms 162.5 watts x 4 channels at 2 ohms 325 watts x 2 channels bridged at 4 ohms Let's find out what this 30 year old amp can do! See Wayne Harris' 1960 Terminator Hearse: https://youtu.be/tPtJUa9CdIc SMD Test the Power 300: https://youtu.be/85ONEmjGYmE BigD's Test of the Power 1000: https://youtu.be/MEuEbuNbcHc Watch the Power 650 Test on YouTube in 4K or embedded below:
  31. 2 points
    I'm always looking to make my calculator better. Please, what flaws have you found? Maybe I can find a way to fix them.
  32. 2 points
    What I really like is the fact that you lined your truck and the wire work is clean.
  33. 2 points
    Lots more to come just took the truck to get the box built today super stoked
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    Resilient Sound pulled through, for real! Ordered it Saturday, got it today.
  36. 2 points
    You can mix standard batteries with agm batteries and be fine because the resting voltage isn’t that far apart. I just wouldn’t mix lithium with anything but lithium, preferably the same kind of lithium. I’ve heard of people mixing lithium with agm with isolators but I’m not about to do that. I’ve even heard of people mixing agm with lithium straight with no isolator. That would cause the lithium battery to try and match the agm battery’s resting voltage which would damage the lithium battery after a certain amount if time because it’s bad to run a lithium battery in the 12s or even drop in the 12s when the alternator is on and a bass note hits. You can just use a regular batteries and add an agm in the mix and be fine if that’s what you want to do to add to your vehicles electrical system. Or trade out the rear battery with an agm. That’s what I’d do.
  37. 2 points
    Are you sure the rca’s aren’t bad? I think it’s the rca’s. The cable is probably the only thing you checked. It still might be bad. How did you check it? Even when a rca cable reads correct voltage still doesn’t mean it hasn’t gone bad. Buy a new rca cable to see and if it doesn’t fix the problem then rule out the cable. There’s other things to diagnose with bad rca’s, like the outputs on the head unit and the inputs on the actual amp. Switch the rca’s from subwoofer to rear in the head unit and see what it produces. If there’s no change then you rule out the head unit. Then hook up a distortion detector to the amp with out the subwoofer present and play with the gain and see where it distorts. If it doesn’t distort then it’s the amp. If it does distort the you rule out the amp.
  38. 2 points
    0 gauge from the battery to distribution block that will separate to 4 gauge to the 1800.1 and 8 gauge to the 75x4. And ground them amps in separate spots, 8 gauge ground for the 75x4 and 4 gauge ground for the 1800.1. Then run 2 sets of rcas, 1 2 channel and 1 4 channel. Run one remote wire and crimp slit it into 2 wires, one to each amp. Done and done. Knukonceptz for the wiring except for the rcas. Knukonceptz rcas are too tight and hard to get off and can mess up rca inputs. Pick some twisted rca cable off eBay or amazon. Name brand of course. Sky high has good wiring too. Idk how their rcas are though.
  39. 2 points
    Audiopipe has stepped into the full bridge game with the APHD-3000D-H1 shown here. This amp is tiny at 8x6x2.5 inches and rated to deliver 3000 watts at 1 ohm. But wait, this amp looks a lot like a Taramps HD3000, is there a reason? Maybe, watch the vid including a tech segment from Sam at Barevids (YouTube.com/Barevids) with more to come on this controversy. Watch the video in 4K UHD on YouTube or embedded below:
  40. 2 points
  41. 2 points
    You don’t tune any amp with the subwoofer connected. They misinformed you. People make mistakes. It happens. It’s safest to tune the gain with the subwoofer disconnected. The distortion/clipping isn’t based on the subwoofer or it’s connection, so forget having it connected. Distortion/clipping has to do with the signal the head unit is sending through the rca connection to the amp then through the amp to the subwoofer connection, thus distorting the flow coming out the subwoofer connection or sending a clean signal.
  42. 2 points
    we have needed a better van for a long time since nobody but me will drive the ‘98 astrovan with the tore up seat. We have so many packages to ship it makes Kay Kay’s Yukon sag and scrape the fenders. So it was time. We shopped most the afternoon and found this one. Keep in mind, it is bare bones now but a LOT can be done to them. Sorry, for now i have no plans to turn this into a bass-machine. But the astro is now free...hmmmmm check out the new war pony! 2019 Mercedes Sprinter Turbo V6 3500 Dually
  43. 2 points
  44. 2 points
    Connect that clip indicator to the amp and leave it beside the amp and turn the gain all the way down and then go to your head unit and turn the volume to the highest volume level that you listen to and then play a 40 hz test tone off your cellphone and then go back to the amp and creep the gain up while the tone is playing until you see the clip indicator go off and when you see it go off, turn back a hair until it goes off. Then your amp’s gain is set. And remember that any volume over the volume that you set the gain will have clipping. Some people set their amp’s gain with the head unit all the way up, full tilt, but I don’t see why because unless you’re gonna be listening to your head unit full tilt then it’s pointless. So tune it at the highest desired listening volume and don’t play it over that volume. Clipping (distortion) is the number one culprit of blowing subwoofers. Some people think they blew their subwoofers from feeding it too many watts when truly it was fed too much distortion aka clipping.
  45. 2 points
    I have a pair of Memphis VIV components in each front door. I think they sound great, but eventually I will be upgrading these as well, along with reconfiguring the door again. The stereo shop that installed it didn't take into account that I might want to open my glove box without having to open the passenger door. Also, they're supposed to have screens to protect them but the owner decided it looked better to him without the screens. But that's not what I wanted, how can we fix this? I don't think we'd be able to fix it without rebuilding the door panel. I wouldn't be able to do that work for free. So yeah, done messing with that shop. My friends and I had been dealing with that shop since we started driving in the mid 90's. Never been screwed until this build.
  46. 1 point
    No brainer why waste money on trash.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Did you remove any stock wiring? Where are you measuring your voltage from? Any loads on the system? Does your vehicle have any smart charging / current clamps?
  49. 1 point
    Just got this little guy. Cresendo Audio S4. $270. It says it does 220 watts per channel. We'll see I guess. Still haven't 100% decided on what speakers I want to run with it though. Slowly but surely picking up everything I need
  50. 1 point
    That mirror finish looks so damn good

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