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  1. Some photos of the new SMD mini anl fuse / distro blocks. From 2 spots up to 8 spots (4 to 16 spots on the ground/distro bars) They have 8ga inputs/outputs to keep the blocks very small…but i designed a really nice single and double input 8ga to 2ga/4ga adapters for those that want to run larger wires. Available in several colors! Copper coming soon as well. Visit www.wccaraudio.com if you have any interest in one of these jewels We have SHCA mini anl fuses from 50 to 175a in stock to go with them
    3 points
  2. I understand before setting amp gains, you need to find your HU max volume before clipping. However, since i play my music from my iphone(13) through the Youtube Music app via Bluetooth, shouldn't i need to find the max volume on my iphone first, since its actually the source? I usually just turn the volume all the way up on my phone then find my max HU volume before clipping but if my phone clips at max then wouldn't mess the whole process up? Wouldn't that be the same as setting amp gains without finding your HU max level? I watched Steve's old video on finding an ipads max level before clipping and one thing he did was use a rca adapter directly from his ipad to his amp thus bypassing the HU all together. Is this the same process i need to do with my phone to find, if any, distortion at max volume? Also, does the Sound Check option in my iphone setting need to be on or off?? Seems i read something about it needing to be off, mine has been on this whole time. Anyway, sorry for the long thread!
    1 point
  3. You can learn a lot just from reading older posts, I guess almost any questions you may have has been addressed at some point in these forums, for example if you want a discussion on how narrow your port should be read this: If you want to figure out the effects of tuning, I can tell you that the best tool you already have which is the bassbox software, but if you actually want o find out how it actually sounds, you cannot be told that, you need to experience it by building and testing enclosures. The software to draw the figures is called sketchup, kind of hard to use at first but it's free to use. let us know your progress on your build, you will learn a lot just by getting it to perform well, that's why I posted those two vids, get your system to perform better than them and you will know you are getting good at designing systems. recheck all the concerns I had with your system and see what you can come up with.
    1 point
  4. So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 2 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.
    1 point
  5. Red is 3.1 @ 35Hz 54 squarer inches of port area. Peak vent airspeed @1000W per driver is close to 20 m/s Violet is 0.91 (per driver) sealed. Cabin gain is set for an average sedan, 12dB per octave 3dB gain at 50Hz. May or may not represent your situation. You can always fix either with DSP.
    1 point
  6. TLDR: it's confirmed the HU causing hiss Update: I connected the amp direct to my phone with an RCA to 3.5mm as mentioned above. (Connected at the end of the RCA that normally plugs in to the HU so it's still running through all the car trim). No hiss at normal levels (barely audible at max gain with my ear next to the speaker) So I think that confirms the HU is the issue. Which I'm not too upset about since it was only $50. (Jensen MPR2121). I guess if you're going to spend a ton of money on a sound system you probably shouldn't skimp on the HU.. Thanks Joe X for the idea
    1 point
  7. Unless your running bottom of the barrel Hertz speakers you're going to have a tough time finding much better, and even if they are the lowest end Hertz and you have that amp bridged to 2 channels you're only getting 250 watts per channel to run the 3way component systems. Considering you have 2 channels of amp essentially since the 5 channel amp is bridged that would mean you're using the passive crossover networks that came with them. So ditching the passive crossovers and running the speakers active would be a huge increase over control but you would need 6 channels of amplification and you would need an amp that allows you to bandpass the channels (or run a DSP) because that Arc amp doesn't support bandpass on the crossover filters. You can most likely give them more power as well. Another thing that can improve the sound even more is treating the door with sound deadener. Depending on the location of all the speakers possibly changing where the mid and tweet are located can improve the imaging as well as how loud it appears. Really hard to say though since you didn't give much info besides the amp and brand of speakers and the fact that they are 3-way and didn't include the model or where they are located. What I can say though is just buying another set of speakers and putting them in the same location using the same amp is just going to be throwing money out the window because you're not really going to gain any output/volume by doing that unless you use some cheaper speakers with a cheaper lower wattage handling and you over drive them which will lead to failure and they will most likely sound worse as well. Oh and also any Pro Audio speaker from any manufacture is not going to come any where near close to a good sounding component system. So unless you want no midbass and harsh tweeters stay away from said style of speakers such as the DS18 and DeafBonce and bullet tweeters like those mentioned above.
    1 point
  8. The SDR 12s will work in 4th order bandpass. EBP <70 Suggested box specs for two drivers: Sealed chamber 2.2 net Ported chamber 3.8 net @45Hz Port area 72 square inches. Power to: 1200W RMS.
    1 point
  9. So here is a second suggestion, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 9 cm, figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: Tuning down to 34Hz and F3 of 26Hz, will be adequate for low tuned, music, net volume up to 4 cubic feet. NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.
    1 point
  10. Why a blow thru for 2 12"s especially of that caliber? I am not knocking, Just genuinely curious on what is having you choose that route. With that driver you have the option for either or, so really it would be up to you preference and goals. If you are set on your decision, I'd say without knowing the exact details but more than likely a 4th. "How to build it" Is way to vague.
    1 point
  11. You still not done yet and yea I've been procrastinating onit I sound deadened everything ran all the wire now all I have 2 do is find a spot for the second battery hook up the amp and eventually build a new box
    1 point
  12. use the DD-1 to get everything set to max clean output (source -> everything in between -> amp) then use a DMM to set the output of the amp to whatever you need. There is a formula for determining the output of voltage needed for however many watts you want. It's not perfect but it should be close enough to be safe.
    1 point
  13. My 2 cents.....generally tuning up higher like you are really doesnt gain you as much loudness as you think. This is why tuning lower is more preferable in the big picture. If you really want both a bandpass style box is what you can aim for if you have the room.
    1 point
  14. You can connect phones, players, etc to the amp not only head units to see if you get the same hiss levels. Just need a cheap cable adapter to do so. BTW what amp is it?
    1 point
  15. NOTE: it is very hard to just by looking at some parameters of two well matched subs to tell which is going to do better, there are many factors in play and so you need to go through the whole modeling process to realize the finer details. Two of those Messo 12 on 3K are about as loud as one EXO 12, so if you are planning to do 1 EXO 12 DON'T do it you will gain nothing dB wise, it would only make sense if you want a smaller box and around same output. Between the EXO 12 and the Z v5 12 what stands out is the much higher Xmax of the Z (35mm vs 20mm), otherwise they are very similar, So if you are looking for louder and cleaner deep bass the Z is superior to the EXO. The other thing about the EXO (assuming you want a single one) is that is a D1 so your wiring options are 0,5 or 2 ohm, you need to make sure your amp will deliver the 3000 or so watts at the available impedance options. If you want to look at some plots or have any other questions, let me know.
    1 point
  16. Here are the plots for the above box for the D4 version of the sub: Projected in-car frequency response: Cone displacement: Vent airspeed: Should sound pretty good but since you asked for higher tuning your -3db half power frequency is about 31 Hz, so not too great for low tuned stuff like rap.
    1 point
  17. Speaker Pods: I drilled holes in the sail panels sanded them down and molded the tweeter housing to fit within. I also made custom fiberglass kick panels. Sound deadening: I took the entire car apart: I did the doors, roof, and the entire interior. Once that was done I installed the speakers and the kick pods.
    1 point
  18. So here is a suggestion, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 9 cm, figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.
    1 point
  19. With a multimeter, or even a test light for that matter. Seems like that cheap accurate stinger volt meter like you said in the other post is working pretty well!
    1 point
  20. Well that’s more reassuring to hear. I ain’t got the coin right now for a big half bridge, maybe I’ll wait and do more research on the matter.
    1 point
  21. I'm looking to run one of these as an alternate set up to what I have for my daily driver. I plan on using my 18" Fi Neo 4.11 (Dual 0.7). Has anyone run this amp consistently at 0.35? I'd like to utilize this amp as much as I can.
    1 point
  22. That's the word on the street. I've had a smart 3 running off a Kenwood headunit that's 5V pre-out and it didn't have any issues. I'm currently running a Smart 3 bass on similar pre-out voltage with no issues.
    1 point
  23. i have a soundstream dtr1 3400d that will do .35 with good electrical on ebay.
    1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. 12.2 > 10 so you are far enough from the back wall for it to work properly. You can just build it like that.
    1 point
  26. The OG looks like a double stack, it’s where the magnet broke. It’s the same sub tho
    1 point
  27. I think batteries need to be sized appropriately. Batteries supply quick bursts of power, alternator does not. Get a battery setup that can put out some good current, and have alternator that can recharge it. Lithium sounds like the way to go for big power builds. People out there running big power off a lithium bank and stock alternator that say their voltage hardly moves.
    1 point
  28. It feels surrealistic to read that you want dual alternators and 4800 Watt RMS worth of amplifiers to drive four 300 watt subwoofers. Am I missing something? If those subs were Sundown X v3 then it would barely make sense.
    1 point
  29. I’m hoping with all that the subs are going in the bed right? What’s the bass plan.
    1 point
  30. Why is the gain setting changing just because you are wiring the voice coils differently? Did you have it set to something lower than max clean output with your sub wired to 4ohms?
    1 point
  31. You've validated it has ground, +12v, and turn on?
    1 point
  32. People who try and tell you what your doing wrong because they replaced a fuse one time and now they're experts while you're jacketing wires for free so it doesn't interfere with their 4 barrel holley sniper harness... ill leave it there.
    1 point
  33. so its all together and doing some testing etc just seeing whats up with it. first burp no turning both windows down (only a few songs in drivers window regulator didnt feel like working anymore) did a 59.3 on the dash like i said with both windows open. with 3 amps at .25 ohm a few more pics for you guys, needs some more cleaning up cause it got thrown together to make it to a show this weekend.
    1 point
  34. its been wayyyyyyy too long. gonna put some pics up for you guys to catch up. its been insane here lately sorry for the delay
    1 point
  35. console is all done came out great time for some distribution blocks also jasper jig broke had to cut them by hand lol
    1 point
  36. I have said it many times, in many ways, in many places. stupid. fucking. people.
    1 point
  37. when i'm giving a demo and they say something to me so i have to decide either to turn it down and ask what they said, or shake my head yes and pretend like i knew what they saide
    1 point
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