missinglink
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Posts posted by missinglink
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We have him rollin now. We upgraded his alt to a cs144 140amp alt. with a module he's playing with 14.8v and 15.2v. We got him some bigger wire 1/0 of course from the alt to batteries. He still sees a drop to 14 but its back up in like 30 sec. He has 1 old acid batt and 1 yellow top. Its fine now besides the 2 btl 18" in the trunk his lids about to fly off. Thats a FI for ya LOL.
MLA
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dang you guys seem to be the best thing that happened to car audio. i gots to get me a misslink
Hello,
Thank you we try to be informative and give more info than you need, to understand the voltage issue not just sell you something you have no clue about. Thanks guys ,
Very grateful ,
MLA
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hey man, Right now i have the crunch gp3000d hooked to a 12 BTL. I dont have big3 done yet nor do i have a batt in the back. But I have an optima red top under the hood.
Im in a 2000 accord coupe. 90 amp alt, like 40 at idle. I am seeing voltage drops pretty bad with mine. My volt meter starts out at around 14.1-14.2 and if i turn the shit up, i see instant voltage drops. I would definitely recommend getting a new alt, I know I am.
A bigger alt will help with the power ,but your voltage will stay about the same. The internal regulator is controlled by the car which feeds the signal to the alt. Hope this helps
MLA
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Can you post or send us some pics of the plug from your alt. The 07 GM's are going all computer control we are trying to see where they started so far the 07 avalanche is new and most all GM 08 models. Does your plug looks like this ?
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Sorry I see you guys are wanting to go Ford / GM alternators. We can make this very easy for you guys. You don't have to splice your factory harness. If your interested we can help. Thanks,
MLA
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We got him hooked up now. Since he was a local we got him a bigger alt and a module now he sits at around 14.8v on a 79 monte carlo. With the upgraded Dogleg or L shape plug module and a pully swap (to v belt) on the cs144 alt he now has a solid 150amps. His stock alt was the older 2 flat pin plug putting out 45 to 60 amps. Keep us posted on the module thanks glad we could help.
MLA
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dats what up .do you have dat same harness for dual alt because i plan on adding another 200 amp alt in a few months
Yes we will make you one no problem. They take about 3 days to build. You can add the second alt anytime the module will work the same for one till you get the 2nd alt. We can seal the 2nd one up till you need it to keep the pins clean. Send us your info and we can get it started for you no problem. [email protected] Thanks,
MLA
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We have these modules now we haven't had time to update our web site sorry. These are stand alone units they run a little more because we have to be the computer for the alternator. The newer 95 & up we use the cars power and controlls. These older plugs are harder to order as well (sucks) $145 shipped for the stand alone 15.5v set point.
for some reason I was thinking 98 sorry.
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Does it look like this dogleg ?
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my plug is diffrent from dat one
Can you get us a picture?
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Here is the pic of the plug it wouldn't let me post it before. It should be the same.
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dat link not workn
just click on it I tried it does now maybe.
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yea but there products dont fit my car
Check the back of your alternator remove the plug and see if it matches this pic. Or post a picture of the alt. It may have a black plastic cap over the back side of the alt. I think you will have this plug the caprice was GM right?
http://www.missinglinkaudio.com/sitebuilde...ures/GMplug.jpg[/img]
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also i jus install my 200 amp alt that came off of my corsica an now im getting 13.5 to all of my batts but is dat gonna be ok or do i need more also what ga wire should i be runing off of my batt in my trunk to power all of that my deck,eq,tv tuner,7" tv,dvdplayer,ipod controler,ps2,power inverter dats installed .also do anyone know who makes a dual alt braket for a chevy 305 tbi
Use 1/0gauge for sure. That voltage is still low what year and make. When you add a batteries your voltage should rise from the alt due to the more draw. Factory should be atleast 13.8 - 14v with that much draw.
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i dont understand why your getting offended, i didnt ask anything out of the ordinary. I just asked for some clarification as to this copy the BTL accusation you threw out there.
I dont care who makes the *** trash , i asked about the BTL since this is a BTL thread. I care less if you build subs for a living, you coming on here and blatently stating that other companies were copying it, of course people are going to want to know what your talking about. But it seems that offends you so i'll drop it.
Thanks I guess!!! Let me clarify my accusation. Subs are starting to (RESEMBLE) a 3 stack motor with similar size slugs. Scott wants to get away from that same old look. (Sorry that this has gotten of the topic) I'm gonna go down to the vegas strip to find some tacos. hhe
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gaps or not i dont see anyone marketing agaist the btl really minus companies that have been out longer then fi. anyhow the new btl is cool looking imo. i just think the copy coment is kinda not needed if your not going to say anything whatsoever to back up the claim
Ok your right !!! Sorry my bad , I guess building subs for a living I wouldn't know much. CA glue keeps me high. lol
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guess so, i kinda mess with alot of stuff thats out and i havent at all seen anything that compares. Guess since names are out of the question i can only wonder til a sub comes out or until us not in the know see something
Its cool, I no know one uses anyone elses designs ever they all invent motors from scratch like Scott. Come on I'm not here for a pissin match just trying to explain why Scott made the massive change!
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I guess triple slugs, and a 12spoke baskets being used makes it copying
No it don't make it copying these parts are avaliable to the market as a stock part no tooling needed. Slugs yea look the same its the gaps inside for the coil that tells the story. So if you look at pic's I can see where you wouldn't see this.
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im curious as to what subs your speaking of copied a BTL. Not trying to be a smart ass at all, just have no idea which sub is a BTL "copy". I havent been as on my toes with goings on as normal.
There are alot of subs out or coming out now that look like a old BTL. Scott wanted to make it so different that it will be obvious if its copied even a little. Sorry wasn't sure where you were coming from. Forums put you in defense mode for sure when your trying to help. No worries mane!!! I can't name names its not cool but you can tell CHINA from FI PAUL built. HEHE
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New BTL :
If this motor is on a 12" sub you would have to notch out for the speaker wires just to get it in the box. We had a 12" made up you have about 1/8 inch gap between hole and slug!
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For those audio guys that think size matters we'll as with life you still fall short. The factor of more slugs doesn't increase strength it over saturates it. Plus you have to think about the basket and having more weight further away. (Breaks baskets) The back plate is for the coil , the plate is recessed to allow for the movement. It is efficient Scott took into account the speaker travel before flat bottom (soft parts move max) and recessed the back plate as needed. This motor is built to perform plain and simple. The recessed indention on the back plate is for the new sticker logo for the BTL's should be ready in a few weeks. In this subs case girth is better than length.
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just curiousity which subs are you speaking of?
why did you get lost in my translation? This is a BLT topic right.
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If your voltage is dropping to 10.5 then you have drawn everything out of the battery , and will cause heavy strain on your alternator. Low voltage causes your amps to clip then sends power in the form of heat to your subs. This is why you smell the subs burning unless confined in trunk. Just because your voltage drops to 10.5 does not mean your battery is dead. Your alternator will bring it back up. (just wont last long) Make sure you run the car for a bit without the system on before shutting it off to get a little charge back to your battery. Note: this is a small bandade , try a charger at night. Adding a battery will help but you still will not get them full. Get a charger that charges at 16v to get a full charge on both batteries.
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haha...i read all about this new btl thing and everybody and all forums were expecting this huge motor structure of like quad stacked blah blah blah blah...and he shows a pic of a wider moganet single stacked lol...
Not sure what the lol is about! The new BTL has more motor strength in the daily gap than the old BTL does with SPL gaps. The sub weights 4 lbs more than the old BTL so it is BIGGER. That single slug has more strength than 4 BTL slugs combined. It is shorter (less mounting depth) but is almost 4" bigger in diameter. Scott knows everyone loves the massive looking subs , but he has not let us down for how many years now. If it wouldn't out perform the old BTL he wouldn't have paid more to build it. Now that everyone has in some way shape or form copied the BTL . He designed the new BTL to be so different its obvious if its copied. We have tested them and they are meaner for sure. Don't hate just yet wait till they are heard!!! Scott sure as hell is not known for building poo so give it a bit. Steve when you get them in you will be happy for reals.
My Power Drops Down To 10.5 How Much Bass Do I Really Loose?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
With the upgraded alternator he basically picked up an additional 100 amps of charging current, not bad for a bolt up swap on a nearly 30 year old car.
It is now a case of wait & see on his battery condition. The Optima may bounce back from all of that abuse, but right now it is somewhat sulphated. Charging it up at 15 volts will help. The flooded battery is likely damaged beyond recovery from so much time below 11 volts.
Some fresh bateries would be a big help here. 2 or 3 new Kinetiks or Optimas... In this case 4 golf cart batteries would be an improvment!
'Link