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missinglink

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Posts posted by missinglink

  1. Ive never heard of "safely" charging at 2.6 to 2.8 volts per cell. I was taught that 2.583 per cell is the max safe voltage so when you said 16.2, i assumed you were over charging a 12 volt system (12.66-15.49) or you had a 16 volt system that should be between 16.88 and 20.66.

    8 cells at 16.2 would be a "dying 16v system" in my opinion. :D

    I understand people have opinions. Older cars use to charge @ 14.7 for a 12volt system. We are having a standered unit charge 15.5 COLD to stabilize @ 14.7v Look up optima , kinetic , ect... they say 14.4 to 14.8 is a safe charge voltage! With newer cars your charging voltage is controlled by your computer. Think about it you only get a 1-2 yr warranty on new car batteries if the don't charge all the way they wont last as long you think they don't know this. I run 2-200amp alternators @ 16.2 COLD 15.6-15.8 HOT as a daily driver with 13 batteries I have enough storage to use the amps.(note:16 .2 is a special unit for my amount of batteries) On a normal 1-4 battery set up 15.5COLD 14.7 Hot does fine. We have a Ford 150 with a 9yr old shelf battery it has been taking a 15+ voltage charge for 4 years now no problems. Not sure on your 8 cell thing but mine is based on kinetic 6-cell 12v and their 16.9volt batteries are 7 cell. An 8 cell battery would need more voltage than I'm using now! If you take YOUR 16v calculations and use the 2.8volts max per cell x 7 cells = 19.6 (you your self said 16.88 and 20.66) Really how much different is 2.583(you) to what I said 2.6. Please

    EDIT)

    Never heard of a 12v 8 cell battery. If you take your 2.583 x 6 cells = 15.48 which is a standered MLA module set point COLD 15.5v. After the alt warms up it will stablelize at 14.7 well in YOUR safe zone even. Correct

  2. So are you dangerously overcharging 12 volt batteries or is that a dying 16V system?

    Or something else? :blink:

    I run 12-kinetic 2400 & 1 - 2000

    These batteries need 2.6-2.8 volts per cell to see a full charge. There are 6 cells per 2400 thats 16.8volts. Since I run mine at 16.2v COLD they stabilize @ 15.8 or so when hot. This is no where near (dangerously overcharging ) in fact its about a volt shy of even full charge. This is a custom unit for the amount of batteries I have and use for demo's. We have a standard module that will charge 4-6 batteries, its set point is 15.5 COLD when hot it will stabilize @ 14.7 safe for optima, kinetic, even regular batteries. Our module does not over ride your alternators normal function it still backs off when hot , and when your batteries are full. We just change the charging curve of your internal regulator and take back control from newer cars computers. Not sure what a dying 16v is ? I'm charging @ 16v not trying to run a 16v system. A 16v is acutally a 16.9v with 7 cell @ 2.6-2.8 per cell this app.would need to charge @ 18.9 to 19.8v (pending on the amount of batteries). Please help I have never heard of a dying 16v? Thank you,

    MLA

  3. logan doesn't that x come with the option to run dual alts setup... u can get the dual bracket from ford themselves... instead of lookin into a HO alt why not just another alt AND the mla link... you should be golden after that

    i would definitely get a dual setup if u plan on goin to the 4.5k-5k range here in the future

    I agree duel stock alts is the way to go! Stock Ford alts are strong!

    Edit) plus auto zone lifetime warranty under $200 bucks. SWEET

  4. mla will not fix the problem

    130a x 60% (avergae amperage used by car)= 78a

    130-78= 52a

    no matter how many batts, theres no way thats enough amps to recharge ur batts and supply amps with enough power to not dim

    and 12v is not great, u should shoot for 13.5-13.8... that would mean ur batts are at full charge almost all the time

    Funny : since our module gives you about a 200 watts more increase to you power supply (Alternator output converted to watts)

    If he has a 130a alt and our module brings this up to 150+ amps plus a charging voltage from 13.8 to 15.5v. Sorry please tell how more amperage and higher voltage equals (not fixing the problem)? Sorry but Steave does use one I don't think if it did nothing that he would post it for us and BUY one for the hooptie. Also (my boss) Scott from FI promotes our product as well he helped us build the module. Don't mean to name drop but your statment (mla will not fix the problem) is false! I run 13 batteries on the Ascendant audio hummer with 2 alts @ 16.2v pulling 20,000 watts my lights don't dim. Please ask questions we will try to help no one had awnsers for me and it sucked. Thank you,

    MLA

  5. Kinetik batteries have a 12v post and a 16v post. To break it down, each cell is 2v and when you run 6 cells you have 12v, if you want 16v then slap 2 more on the end of the battery. The 12v post is at the point in the battery that 12v output occurs, the 16v terminal is at the end of the row of cells. You will need to charge the battery as if it was a 16v battery. Stock charging systems won't work. Externally regulated alternator at around 18.4-6 volts is what you need.

    We can achieve the same 15.5 to 24v or more if needed set point on internally regulated alts. Externally regulated alts will not perform any better than the internal one.

  6. actually 20.664 is ideal.

    .....but an even 20 will work. B)

    16v batts are really 16.9v they need around 2.6 to 2.8volts per cell to reach a full charge. The 16.9v has 7 cells so @ 19.6 you would receive a full charge. The only way to get a 16v set up is the 16.9 volt batteries. I run 13 kinetics 2400 (12v) @ a charging voltage of 16-16.2 (15.8v when hot) but my amps see 15volt & batteries lose around 1 volt or more than this @ rest. My batteries rest @ 13.5 to 14 pending on how hard I run for daily. After you take into consideration this loss my 12v set up is holding @ 14..7 while slammin. Newer cars are limiting your alternators voltage to less than 14v. Cause for low charge and voltage drops. Thank you,

    MLA

  7. i can get a new alt...i just dont want too

    i think ill be ok, thanks for all the help

    id look to look into the mla thing tho...:)

    Our module works on GM / Ford alternators both stock or after market. Our unit will charge @ 15.3 -15.5v till warm then settles down to 14.7 when hot. I'm not sure on the 12.66 mentioned above but with that number you will always have charging problems. I'm a bass head to so we found a solution why put it in (audio) if you can not beat the hell out of things. There is no need to turn it down boost your voltage up to 15 and slam on (Meade did). Hope this helps, voltage below 13v really can piss off amps. We like to see your batteries resting @ 13+ not playing there. Thank you,

    MLA

  8. i have no idea..

    but i called them and asked what the idle output is...

    the guy didn't know so he looked it up to this socalled book.

    he said it reaches 200amp at 7k RPM. wtf

    and it only goes 40amp on 500 rpm..

    so i ended up going to ebay and bought a 240amp amputator, paid it already + 2 day shipping.

    i hope iraggi sees it... i really need it BADLY

    I had the same problem with my alts. They were supposed to be 240 amp alts ,but at idle they gave me no more power than my stock Delphi. Only when I revved my car to 3000rmp did the 240 amp put out more power even then it was only 20-25 more amps than stock @ over $200 more than a stock alt. I love the stock alts their cheaper and you get a lifetime warranty from the zone for less than $200 bucks and with the development of the MLA module we can get almost as much out of stock alt as the 240 amp alts. Smaller pully will help you at idel also.

  9. im planning to go all out on the alternator..

    i have emailed excessive amperage,iraggi and HOalternators, haven't received any replys from them yet...

    i do need it ASAP but i don't want to buy a stock one cause ill end up replacing it when i upgrade....

    i was looking at this powermaster alternator but it costs $313 + $42 (because of this harness) and only $25 on one day air shipping. do you think it will be alright if i go with that?

    You have a ford right? Why is there a charge for your type of harness is it not factory?

  10. I can fit the 1800, but isn't it overkill, wouldn't the 1400 be ok if I don't plan to add more amps in the future? This will be a one battery setup.

    Your stock alt load will be fine the second battery is up to you but always helps for sure.Only thing I see is they won't see a full charge due to the cars computer which controls your alts regulator for output. Your car (newer) gives a 13.8volt control to your alt even if upgraded to a bigger alt your car sends the same signal.

    Edit : for a little more I would get the 1800 more storage compacity

  11. what equipment is in that car?

    All ascendant audio:

    6-15"prototype mayhems

    20- AA 6.5 mid range

    12-AA 1" tweets

    4-4ch amps for highs

    3-MA audio 10K's

    12-kinetic 2400

    1-kinetic 2000

    2-200amp ohio alts

    1-MISSINGLINK module of course @16.2volts

    Kicker wires

    second skin double roof & floor, triple on the doors

    2"thick MDF all fiberglassed molded roof

    enclosure 2"thick walls

  12. So if i were to get that battery should I jsut use the stock one too? Or should I replace that too if its in just fine condition.

    I would maybe place your mid/high amp off the stock battery & the new one only for the sub amp.The msrp for a kinetic 2400 is $449 I saw this web site see what they can do http://www.millionbuy.com/caudio-kit-sup.html they get thier money on shipping I think.Higher voltage is always nice to keep full charge.

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