missinglink
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Posts posted by missinglink
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And you're right, reading is fundamental, it says 8 hours from full discharge to full charge at 14.5 "boost" mode. (not 72 hours) I'm not trying to start a pissing contest here,
Who said 72 hours anyway?????
Link never said 72 hours at 14.5volts ass, he said 78 hours as it states in your " "info" post
13.6 Volts (Normal Mode)
Required 40 hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78 hours to
reach full charge.
13.2 Volts (Storage Mode)
Required 60 hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 100 hours to
reach full charge.
musta missed that one huh!
Glad to clear that up by reading.
MLA
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"mechy "And you're right, reading is fundamental, it says 8 hours from full discharge to full charge at 14.5
I posted put them on the 16v cycle for 5 hours a few times. What is really stupid is who likes to charge their batts for 8 hours all the time. By running your alt at the fluctuating 14.8/15/15.2 volts it will let you see a fuller charge in normal driving hours. After all with gas prices who drives their car for 6/7/8 hours at 13.8volts with no load to charge to full. NO ONE I know. So little higher voltage faster charge wow what a concept. We do not have to convince you we have posts , pics and testimonials on quite a few forums so believe us or not no biggie. We have been here for members who have questions and need truthfull answers not just to spam a product. Yes you sell power master so piss on kinetic we get it!!!
"mechy" You could call up Rich at Kinetic, and I'm sure he would advise you not to charge Kinetic batteries above 15 volts (for more than a few minutes) either.OH mechy, Next time you call kinetic talk to Eric Harbor. All this topic was for , is the guy wanted to charge his batteries full.
Sorry this topic has became so "short bus" guys, but it is really entertaining for us since we (MLA) are clearly dumb-asses in this world of frickin geniuses.
Sorry for the whos dicks bigger BS , but we need a little laugh from time to time too.
All of us at MLA.
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14.4 Volts (Boost Mode)
Returned the battery to 90% of full charge in approximately 8 hours. The battery
reached full charge in approximately 11 hours.
13.6 Volts (Normal Mode)
Required 40 hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78 hours to
reach full charge.
Reading is fundamental. "Full charge in 78 hours" Sure, you could park your car for 3+ days a week to bring the batteries up...
Those charge cycles represent battery usage in a dead loss application like a trolling motor, where the battery is depleted then recharged completely. In that sort of application a long slow charge is just fine.
What Chris is saying is that the Kinetik batteries will take a higher voltage over a shorter period of time just fine. ALL batteries release some gas while charging. AGM batteries are "Recombinant", which means that they are designed to re-combine the liberated hydrogen & oxygen into water, and return it to the cell. Gassing during charging is normal, and as long as you keep the charge rate below 1/5c, everything should be fine.
'Link
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For realz don't worry about the kinetic getting "overcharged" or "gased" thats
@ 14.8 volts. Mine charge with 2 alts (@ 300amps) and at 15.8volts alot more than 25 amps @ 14.8v without a single problem for a year now. If you want full charge on that kinetic you will need to charge it on the 16v cycle for while. Do a couple cycles of 5 hours or so and you will see how much power you get from a kinetic when it is fully charged. Resting voltage should be around 13.3v for the kinetic so by only giving it 14.8v it will never reach the recommended level of charge per cell!!! Test resting voltage a few hours after its been off the charger so the "surface charge" will fade away to reveal a more accurate settled resting voltage.
MLA
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As for subs 3/5cubes per sub would be ok. Just remember the smaller the box the more power you will need to push things than in a bigger box. I have 6 -15" AA's in 30 cubes, doors closed 30 hertz
and drops to 29hertz doors open.
As for amps look into going with one per two rather than one big one for all four as well. May be easier to find good deals on smaller amps as opposed to the 5k ones. Either way they will sound good cause they are a Scott product!!! :hairtrick: FTW
MLA
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Sounds good, you may be over heating the alt and its shutting down internally due to heat. Hard to say really! How old is the battery ? It may be hurt , and your alt is working to hard to keep up. Since the whine goes away when the light comes on, then it sounds like the alt is cycling on and off to protect its self. You might check the batteries resting voltage too. Checking a batteries voltage after a drive leaves a "surface charge" and will take a few hours to settle. Before you start your car in the morning check the batteries voltage you will get a more accurate number of the true resting voltage of the batt. Most batteries should rest around 12.8/12.9. Hope this helps you some!!!
MLA
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I've checked all connections and everything seems to check out ok.
Vehicle is an 82 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham
Our module can help the voltage drop. The alt might be (hurt) there is no real easy way to tell if its going out either it puts out or it don't. Replace it with a auto zone and you can have the lifetime warranty which is always nice!!!!!
Let us know,
MLA
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Ok so here is whats up.
My charge light keeps coming on randomly, and my voltage will drop from close to 14 volts to about 12.5. Sometimes it will be going 70 down the interstate, or going 35 on a city road in town, its just random. And when the charge light stays off the voltage jumps between 13 and 14 volts back and forth.
Also, I finished my fiberglass door pods, for my rockford components and installed a sundown 100.2 to run them.
When the charge light stays off, I have engine whine, BUT when the charge light is on and the voltage drops, I DONT have engine whine, which kinda makes no sense =/
I recently had my breaks fixed and the local shop checked the alternator and said it checked out fine.
The only thing I can think of is the alternator is going dead, I have a bad ground somewhere, or there is a ground loop.
System setup is
Panasonic 7105 (2006 model)
Sundown 100.2 running Rockfordfosgate Punch 6.5 components.
Poweracoustik Gothic series OV 2- 1250 Running two Fosgate P2 8 dual 4 ohm.
Tsunami RCA's (the blue ones, not sure which series)
Kicker 4 gauge power wire from battery to D-block.
Kicker 8 gauge from D-block to amps.
Kicker 4 Gauge ground to chassis
Duralast gold top battery up front.
Stock alternator.
No big 3 (yet)
If anyone has any idea what the problem is all help would be great.
What type of vehicle is the most important info we need to help you with your problems.
Thanks,
MLA
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2008 4.6L V8 F150.
Your stock alternator is a 6G ford unit, rated @ 110 amps. The modular fords have a center mounted alternator, and not much else will fit in the space.
A 6G is available rated as high as 140 amps from the factory. Some people retrofit the older 3G units to the 6G equipped engines, but in your case this will be a no-go. The 2007 & up F150 has a CAN bus connection to the alternator. The computer controls charging, and there is no stator connection for the 3G type alternator.
A high output 6G could be built, but you should be wary of anyone that claims more than 200 amps from that case. Once you go past 200 amps, the alternator will have poor output at idle, and will run very hot. A n upgrade to 150 amps or so is much more reasonable for a daily driver.
'Link
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I am planning on running my first "big-boy" system very soon and will obviously have to do the needed upgrades first. I know my main amp will be a RF4000 in order to push 2 15" BTLs....with a small possibility of upgrading to two RF4000's in the far future after i learn more. I already know I need the big 3, some good deep cycle batts, and a new alternator....but about what size alt would be good to go with?
Also, who makes some good alternators?
Wow. The same question, over & over. Not a drop of vehicle info.
Is this system going into your Mom's old Yugo, as soon as you get it off the concrete blocks it is resting on?
Or is it going into you brand new Viper as soon as it is delivered?
Since you can't seem to tell us what Year / Make / Model / Engine the vehicle is you plan to upgrade the alternator in, all I can do is guess. even within a single model & year, there may be 3 or 4 different alternators available.
'Link
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13 batts hurt the HP due to weight more than the dual alts.
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Run dual alts as well and no difference either. If it does take some away add a air intake system to balance it back out. LOL
Fast and loud are not really a hand in hand concept, you either want speed or current.
MLA
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That is some DAMN GOOD info from you guys.....appreciate it....Missing link, heads up, I have an order coming soon...
Thanks. We will be looking for your order. Just make sure you give Chris all the info - Year / Make / Model / Engine size / Alternator (OEM or aftermarket).
MechMan:
That sounds like quite a fan. Do you have some pictures of it?
'Link
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The biggest problem with online help is not enough information.
You never mentioned what vehicle it was going in - only a Yukon as the make of the source vehicle.
Over the years, the Yukon has had several alternators in it - CS130, CS144, CS130D & AD244
Rotating an inclined blower in reverse can cause it to lose performance at one end of the envelope or the other. Most Delco units have inclined or curved blowers. Here is some more information on inclined blowers:
"What is the difference between a backward inclined and a forward curved impeller?
Backward inclined or backward curved blades are constructed of single thickness with 9 to 16 blades curved or inclined away from the direction of rotation.
The air will leave the impeller at a velocity less than its tip speed.
The Backward inclined impeller is non-overloading and if used in an application where the static pressure in incorrecly calculated, it will prevent the fan motor from burning.
The Forward Curved Impeller's efficiency is less than the backward inclined impellers. They are usually fabricated at low cost and made of lightweight construction.
They normally have 24 to 64 shallow blades with both the heel and tip curved in a forward configuration.
The air will leave the impeller at velocities greater than the impeller tip speed. Tip speed and primary energy transferred to the air is the result of high impeller velocities. For the given duty, the wheel is the smallest of all of the centrifugal types and operates most efficiently at lowest speed. "
Your best bet is to confirm that your installation does not void the warranty from your alternator supplier. A reduction in airflow could quickly damage an alternator.
'Link
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With the notable exceptions of Honda & Corvair, everything else spins the same direction.
Serpentine drives complicated things when detroit began running things like the water pump from the back side of the belt - making it spin in the reverse. Alternators are driven from the grooved side of the belt, and spin the same direction as the crankshaft.
The only way to drive an alternator "backwards" would be to mount it reversed - that is hanging in front of the belt. Almost impossible without a lot of fabricating.
Some alternators have inclined blades in the fan(s), others are at 90 degrees. An inclined blade is somewhat more effecient if spun in the design direction, but will usually be ok if run reversed. 90 degree blades are completely bi-directional.
'Link
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Well depends on your options mainly. Most cases 5 days to build and 5-7 for UPS. Also when you order your sub it prints out a ups ticket to scott and if your email address is filled in you will recieve tracking info from UPS. The year and a half I worked there the tracking # was scanned in through UPS.
footlongsam Posted Aug 21 2008, 05:04 AMWell Joe. It should take about 2 days ago, and they won't leave a tracking number
Now if your subs are shipped postal service for some reason then you will not recieve a # they only give tracking #'s for express mail packages. Most of the time it is an automatic order & ship ticket so you will be fine. If you do not recieve one hell just ask not to big of a deal.
MLA
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You can run ssd's & Q's in a sealed set up. BTL & BL are for ported only. Sealed will give you more sub controll, just with wont be as loud.
MLA
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I was just clarifying what brand , the post never said exactly what brand alt it was. Just depends on how you read the topic I guess. Thanks.
Keep us posted, Hope it didn't hurt anything else mane. Good luck!!!!!
MLA
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What brand alternator was this? That sucks bro sorry to here that!
MLA
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I went to the hobby shop and got some pure solid copper sheet and cut it to fit my kicker 300amp holder. Put two half knotches in the center for a break point, mine are knotched to leave a 3/16 inch gap in the middle. 3/16 Should be about a 450amp fuse wider the gap stronger the fuse. 1/4 should be around 600 or so.
MLA
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Well you in most cases will pay shipping to Scott. He accepts credit card too. He can send you a crate in a box if you wish. (cost I'm not sure) You in most cases pay for the shipping to him on BTL's. I can stop by there tomorrow and get your answers if you would like. Call or text me your info with size of sub/subs and I will help you out. No worries.
Chris@MLA
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If you need something I can get you an answer and help you get your stuff from Scott! He is very busy and I try to help him if I can.
MLA
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You needing a shirt ,& stickers ? Scott would hook you up i'm sure. He's cool like that.
MLA
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If the rib count is wrong double check the mounts as well. The pullies should be a swap ,the alt shaft should run the same size , pretty standered fit. I would tell him to get you the right shiz though so you can save the stock alt the way it is incase the new one poops you don't have to swap back. Good luck
MLA
@ 14.8 volts. 
Ac Compressor Grind?
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
Posted
The idler bearing inside the A/C compressor clutch pulley is probably toast. When you engage the clutch, some of the side load is carried by the compressor shaft so it quiets down. This added side load is not good for the compressor, and you should fix this ASAP. Pull the belt off, and spin the compressor pulley by hand. If it rumbles, grinds or feels rough, the bearing is gone.
If you keep running it, the bearing may lock up & spin on the aluminum compressor snout. Your Sunfire runs a V5 compressor, and if you spin that bearing a new compressor is 350 bucks.
The clutch can be replaced, and on some cars it can be done without opening the system.
'Link