missinglink
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Posts posted by missinglink
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ok so this is my plan. i want to use 2 t4ks and whatever amp i need for highs probably 800.4 from rockford 4 batteries. alot of screens airbag system ummm lots of things like that what do you guys recommend that i do?
Robert:
Your Blazer came with a CS130D alternator, rated at 100 amps. Depending on how much space you have, you could replace the CS130D with an AD244, which is rated at 140 amps. Then if you fabricate brackets for additional alternators, you should stay with either the CS130D or AD244 alternators. The AD244 would be my first choice for upgrading this vehicle.
Additional batteries are important in any system. Using all of the batteries in the vehicle is a good plan. Add as many batteries as you can fit safely. For audio systems storage capacity is important. The bass "hit" can draw many times what the alternator can produce, so storage capacity keeps things working.
Airbags? If you mean suspension, you will need plenty of power for some of the compressors on the market. Additional alternators are a good idea.
The AD244 should be a drop-in on your stock bracket. Adding two more stock AD244's for a total of 3 alternators would give you 420 amps of charging capacity. A stock AD244 will run almost continously at full output. They have avalanche diodes for surge protection, and other advanced features. I would recomend at least 100 amp/hours of battery capacity for each 100 amps of charging capacity. That means 4 to 6 batteries minimum for 3 stock AD244's.
Hope this helps.
'Link
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Well I run 13 batteries @ 16.2v off duel alts. They float @ 13+ volts
MLA
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Most GM/Ford alts do up to 140amps stock so one @ 100amps would be fine on one ,but could charge a few batteries with the right voltage
MLA
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ok so this is my plan. i want to use 2 t4ks and whatever amp i need for highs probably 800.4 from rockford 4 batteries. alot of screens airbag system ummm lots of things like that what do you guys recommend that i do?
Three stock alts will produce more power than 4 batteries need. Try to use 6batts for 3 alts. We can build a module to run all 3 alts with a master / slave switch. In case you have to much alt for your batteries you could then bypass the two alts and just run the master.
but then switch them all on @ 15v when you are really showing off!!!A 16v system really is not needed cause you have to charge @ 18.6volt min. to keep them charged.
MLA
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Glad to hear you won!!! Did you get chance to long charge the battery,it will help alot also.
"Congrats"
MLA
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Well link does have his own style.LOL Like I said kent I can help you anytime just hit me up I dont mind.
MLA
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i better way to do it i found is to get cardboard and get it as close as you can. Then "scrap" it in place till you have your shape. Tape peices all over it until it goes all the way around and then pull it off. Then trace clean onto whatever you were making it for and it should be perfect. Works WAY better then that damn green flex stick.
Kent:
I use a mixture of the two techniques. A piece of copper building wire bent around the compound curves. Then transfer this raw shape to a piece of sign plastic with a sharpie. Cut, sand, file - whatever on the plastic until it fits 100% Once the template fits the way you want the finished part to fit, you can make the final part from the template.
"Where the hell do I get sign plastic?" Easy, at least here in Las Vegas. Every night some dirtbag will hang 50 or 60 square feet of the stuff on a chainlink fence someplace. They nail smaller pieces onto telephone poles, or on sticks in planters. All of those signs are illegal, so grab one anytime you need it. It works great, and is more durable than cardboard. Plus, you are cleaning up the city... Just take your wire cutters for the zip ties, and go by Spring Mountain & Lindell.
'Link
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Here is how the shipping thing works @ FI when you purchase your sub you get an order confirmation and shipping confirmation before its even built. We build subs from the UPS printed labels so it registers and confirms your order. Once your sub is built and MR. UPS picks it up he scans the ticket, now you should receive an email with the transit info.
So he is a little behind but 5-7 days before shipping is about right. He has a hard time getting to all the emails at one time when we got back from spring break he had over 1000 emails in just 4 days. He is only human and because of prior fuck overs he will run FI all by himself. I give him props for his dedication and mellow attitude , he will help anyone no matter the case. He is a guru and he thanks all for their support to FI.
Thanks,MLA
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It's probably going to be kinda tough to find a shop that will install alarms not bought from them... i know we don't, sometimes if it's something by DEI we might but the labor is usually alot more than normal. That's probably why they said 300 to put it in.
X2 This is totally the case. Its kinda their way of getting back at ebay's cheap wholesale prices. Don't blame them but to me a $100 doller install would be better then $0.00 and a customer that wont come back cause he thinks you were ripping him off then he tells some one who tells some one. ect... This is my opinion.
MLA
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no issue but its a pretty retarded way to do it. Why not use both alts and let the system and the car itself for that matter share all the extra available amperage? Unless your running a 12v/16v combo there is no reason to do that.
Like Steve says tie them together ,but if you want to run one @ 15v and two @ 16,18,24volts it don't matter we can build a module to accommodate any application needed. Plus you wont have to buy any modified alts to achieve your goal,in case you change your mind on the set up and your stuck with modded alts. Iraggi's are nice if you have the cash, if not just run 3 stock cs130D alts , local yard maybe 30 bucks each. This will help you see if you need more alt or not before buying the costly ones. If you run 3 stock alts you could charge 10-12 batteries no problem. If you ran 3 iraggi's you could run 12-14 batteries no problem. Just depends on how extreme you are going to go with amps / power. If you plan on running 3 alts get battery storage most important. 3 alts-- minimum 6 batteries for better result. If you have 4 small batteries on 3 alts they just dont have enough storage capacity to hold all the current from the alts in my experience. (Less efficient) Cool keep us posted and let us know if you have any questions or concerns thats why we are in the manufacturer zone bro!!!
Thanks, MLA
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Well a 12v is not really needed when ordering an alt. So common HO replacements will be a standered voltage unless you ask for something higher then it will be a special order. All automoive alts that will fit on cars can be any voltage. You can get a stock alt from auto zone and run it at 19v that number really dosen't desribe an alt. You just need an alternator is all. The alt willl put out around 13.8-14.2v in most cases. The voltage is maintained by the internal regulator in the alternator and/or your cars computer anyway so just ask for a HO replacement you will be fine.
MLA
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ok so i get paid next week and i started on my system wrong last time. i started with the subs and still havent really got the amps for it. but the little amp that i have now is too much for my stock alt. lol... so im planning on keeping my stock alt. for reg stuff like lights and all that other stuff... my dad is making me a triple alt bracket. so im wondering whats a good alt. that i can buy that isnt going to take forever to get? and whats the biggest one that i will be able to use without burning it up it will be used for a daily setup... oh and idk if i should get that mla module thing.... would that help any i dont know what it is but im still reading up on some things. thanks.
Robert:
It depends on what the host vehicle is, and what type of alternators your bracket will be adding. Our modules allow you to run multiple alternators on late model GM products without PCM issues or warning lights / messages. We keep the OEM regulator in place with all of it's protective functions, and adjust the charging curve. We can even accomodate mixed types of alternators such as a CS144 added to a system with an existing AD244, or a Ford 4G mounted with a CS130D GM unit.
'Link
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You can easily convert an internally regulated alternator to external, and use an adjustable external regulator.
I don't know about your vehicle specifically, but I have run my 2001 Silverado at 16.0v for several weeks. Aside from drying out a couple 12v batteries, it didn't hurt anything on the truck.
This illustrates one of the several issues with fixed voltage regulation. Damaging batteries, and or alternators.
Our unit is made to work with internal regulators, and to take advantage of all of the features included in ther OEM regulator We modify the stock charging curve to take full advantage of the capacity available in your batteries.
Our unit installs without opening the alternator, and in some cases is plug & play. We do not charge at a constant high voltage, which can damage batteries. Your vehicle PCM still has authority if an overvoltage event occurs.
Internally regulated alternators have sophisticated regulators, which can sense alternator temperature and other conditions. If you are pushing an internally regulated alternator too hard, it will reduce field current to keep from overheating and damaging itself. Our units do not disable that function like an external conversion does.
Our units include temperature compensation as well. This allows for a more accurate measurement of the ambient temperature & battery temperature.
Batteries should not be charged at a constant high voltage for long periods of time. Battery voltages are related to both temperature and state of charge. There is a charging curve for every system. Our units are designed to modify that curve for high performance applications.
'Link
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Sorry I have been out of town so I have not had much computer access. We are only for internal regulators, but can do some custom shit as well!!!
I have to catch a plane around 5pm should be home around 9pm. Just call around these times or PM me your # and I'll hit you up!
Thanks guys for the props.
MLA
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Steel makes a great resistor. I am in the middle of building a new load bank, and was just doing some calculations for a set of 100 amp load resistors...
A piece of .187 diameter steel bar 110 inches long is .147 ohms - and that will soak up 100 amps with enough cooling.
If your frame has a resistance of .01 ohms, you are sucking up some power heating the vehicle.
With high currents, the ground path needs to be equal to the rest of the system.
'Link
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You should be able to see all transactions in your paypal accounts page. As long as he is a verified buyer , confirmed address you shipped to, and you do a signature confirmation they wont take back the money. Double check all of these things first, I allways get a details list in my paypal. DO NOT ship to a different address than confirmed, if its not confirmed tell him sorry.
MLA
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Could be pulling to much current for your set up. What else is there in your set up other amps, bateries, and or alternator/s ?
Need more info!!!!
Sounds like your power or Ohm? Get more info please thanks !!!!
MLA
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Well they are not just smashed !!! Scott went alot further than that as with every thing he makes! Since he is paying top dollar for them I wont say anymore than that. Sorry.
They did fix all the previous lead wire problems!!!
And the new leads are implemented in the new ascendant audio dealer line as well.
MLA
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.I will take some better pics in better lighting tomorrowHell with your car I want to see your house.
In a neighbor hood like that you should be able to find a lonely MILF for modeling!!! -
Can we run MLA from your house looks a little sweeter than mine.
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I don't understand why people are hating on Powermaster for their lawsuit. Its not like their trying to say that are better than the rest all they are saying is they don't want other companies putting out bogus crap on them. Don't hate the player....hate the game.
This can be taken for everyone either side of the suit. To be fair
When I see that big juicy big mac on the side of the semi all nice and neat. Is that what I get, no a tiny ass thrown together artery closing 3 bites of bliss. So its every where , they should just worry about producing a good solid battery. And when people see they hold up over leading brands then they will be on top without all the BS. Its not cool to get free publicity exposure by or thru a law suit, and media based exposure from the (diss) of others. People will go with what they like or someone they know runs so I see no point.
I personally think its a my dicks bigger than your dick thing. Just my opinions. I will run whatever I can afford to be honest so I vote : don't care.
Chris @ MLA
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This is my neibirs car I did a month ago, in his 2004 galant. Two 12" FI hybrid sx it has awesome bass response with tons of clarity. Get all the sound from subs and ports ,plus it gives his car a hatchback feel. Very efficient, tuned to 30/32 hertz
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WOOOO WOOOO
my favorite part of that video is Rubb blowing the stop sign - on the wrong side of the street. I avoid driving in Oakland...
'Link
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I found the pin out for the CS144 alternator. Only two of the four wires are used, or thats at least what I found.
S = Heavy gauge wire to the battery supply (loop back to post on back of alternator).
F = not used.
L = Small gauge wire that comes from the idiot light and energizes the alternator.
P = not used.
Where would the idiot light be that I'm going to use? thats the only thing I haven't found yet...
Many GM cars With a CS144 use only 1 wire - the "L" terminal. Your Cutlass should have a red light on the dash for "GEN" or "ALT". There should be a brown wire on your current alternator, about 18 gauge. It will be in the two wire plug for your alternator. This wire grounds through the "L" terminal, and causes the warning lamp to come on. You can simply splice the warning lamp wire on your car to the "L" terminal on the CS144 plug. The red wire in your old plug is hot, you can connect it to the S terminal if you like, or insulate it for safety.
'Link
but then switch them all on @ 15v when you are really showing off!!!
Power/ect...
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
The math is simple. 8,000 watts @ 13 volts is 615 amps. 8000/13 = 615
You should avoid cycling deep cycle batteries below 50% of their capacity, some batteries even less than that for best service life. Since any voltage drop will result in a current increase to maintain wattage, you do not want the battery voltage dropping off.
Your 300 amp alternator is powering the vehicle loads as well as charging your batteries. Even cruising down the road on a cool day you will not have the full 300 amps available to make up what you remove from the battery bank.
I recomend you set the alternator output aside while calculating the battery bank. 615 amps for an hour is obviously 615 amp/hours. You would need at least twice that number to play for an hour without significant voltage drop. 1230 amp/hours.
An HC600 is 20 amp/hours. 3 units would be 60 Ah, 60/2 = 30 Ah. 615 amps would take you down to 50% charge in 2.5 minutes - less actually at that high discharge rate. Even if you could get all 300 amps from the alternator, you would drain your batteries to 50% in 5 minutes. In 10 minutes, you would need a tow truck.
Let's say you have 6, HC2400's. 128Ah each. 768Ah of capacity total 768/2 = 384 384Ah is a good start for an 8kw load. But if you drive a half hour to work each day, playing @ 4kw... You will be slowly depleting the batteries. Overnight charging with a power supply would be recomended.
'Link