missinglink
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Posts posted by missinglink
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So once I get a stock CS144, just swap the pulleys between it and my stock oldmobile alternator?
Also, I can't find the adapter plug your talking about...if you could help me find one it would be greatly appreciated.
This is what im looking for, correct?
91 Deville stock alternator.
This is the alternator Cadillac CS144 140 amp
The pulley from your old alternator should work, or you can use a ford 1G pulley if you have one laying around. The GM pulley may have a spacer behind it, just make sure that the center of the pulley you install clamps the fan - not the outside diameter. If the pulley is not supported in the center, the OD will push on the fan & distort it. If in doubt, have someone that knows how swap the pulley - many auto parts stores can do this.
The plug on the CS144 is a square, 4 cavity plug with one terminal larger than the rest. Your idiot light wire can be attached to the "L" terminal to fire the alternator up. If you want to run it from a switched ignition source, you must install a 510 ohm resistor in the "L" circuit. Some places carry the plug with a 4 wire pigtail, or you can cut one out of a junk car.
We make a plug & play module with the plug already attached, all it needs is a switched ignition connection - if you are looking to increse charging voltage as well.
'Link
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yeah, but your X's stock electrical is pulling A LOT more from the alt than my car with manual windows/locks/everything.
if i can hold a 13-14v charge all day i'll be a happy camper. Much improvment from 11.xs i'm getting now without a system
-Drew
The 110 amp unit is the best you can do with the stock mounting on that little 1.8L car. If you have the fabrication capacity, you could add mounts for an AD244 delphi unit, or a couple of CS130D's.... I can see it now, two giant alternators poking out of the hood!
This is a small car. Your choices will always be more limited than someone doing an H2.
Storage capacity is your best bet, and amp/hours all count. the three Optimas are fine if they are in good shape. Boosting the voltage will help bring them to full charge. Dollar for AH, the best deal in batteries is still the flooded type. You can walk into any sams club & buy a 250AH 8D battery for 140 bucks. 6 volt "golf cart" type batteries are another bargain. 140 bucks a pair for a high capacity deep cycle 12v battery.
The down side of course is housekeeping. You need to maintain the water level occasionally. They should be ventilated, and not stored in the passenger compartment. They need to be installed the way thet sit, no laying one down. Some cleaning is necessary, they are not sealed.
At some point you will exceed the GVWR of the vehicle if you keep stacking batteries in it. There is always a limit.
'Link
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Kinetic , power master , are good
Kinetic 1800/2000 up front and a 2000/2400 if you can fit it,
or power master equivalent
Depends on what will can fit in your space really.
MLA
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The engine is the 4.1 lt 260 V8. Smallest V8 Oldsmobile made, but the stock CS144 out of a Deville if I say go pick one up at auto zone or something, will it require a pulley change?
EDIT: Found this, will that work?
doesn't list amperage at idle.
http://www.alternatorparts.com/CS-144_Special_offer.htm
Or this? 155 amps at idle.
You have a 10SI unit right now. The CS144 has a serpentine pulley that needs to be changed. Not a big deal, just takes an impact wrench to do it. The stock CS144 is a good unit, you may not need anything bigger. Cadillacs have a lot of electrical junk that sucks power at idle, especially those 1990's boats...
You will need the mating plug to hook it up, and be sure to upgrade the battery to alternator cable. I can usually find a recently rebuilt CS144 in a caddy at the local Pic-A-Part for less than 40 bucks. They respond well t othe voltage increse as well.
'Link
Edited to add:
Look carefully at those links. One is selling a GM "type" alternator - code for chinese copy. The other is a zero feedback e-bay newbie selling a rebuilt unit for a lot of money. Start with a stock 144, and see what more than double your current output does first.
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I'll trade you a module for it!
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Its Actually a 2004 Ford Explorer
Your alternator / regulator is not doing well. Perhaps a blown diode, or a regulator / brush problem.
You could have one of four alternators, depending on engine size & Ford's mood that week. Both the 3G & 4G were used on both engines.
If you have a 3G, there is a built in self-test on the back of the alternator. A ground jumper in the right place will force it to full output. This test should only be done long enough to verify a voltage increase - and only at idle.
If it pulls up to 15 or 16 volts @ full output, your regulator or brushes may be bad. Easy fix, 4 torx screws. Once the regulator is out, have a look at the brushes.
If the self test does not produce an increase in charging, you have an open diode or two. The alternator will have to be repaired or replaced.
If you have the 4G alternator (black tin cover on the back) you will have to remove it to have it tested. Or drive the vehicle to autozone/pepboyz/kragen/checker etc. and have it "tested". Just write down the results & post them.
'Link
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jeep
Ok, what year & model of Jeep?
Many Chrysler / Jeep / Dodge vehicles use the PCM to control voltage, and they tend to undercharge, especially at higher temperatures.
'Link
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Hello everyone. First post here.
I'm going to be starting my build soon for my car. I've been looking for a high output alternator for some time now, but have failed in finding one for my year model (82 cutlass supreme brougham). I won't be needing an outrageously huge alternator, but one to help with voltage, because my stock 63 amp alternator just doesn't cut it.
The system will consist of two FI BL 12's on a Hifonics brutus 2600D. Then 2 high end amps for components.
The only other option I've found to get one is go to a junk yard to find an old Cadillac alternator, year model from 80 to 85 which come stock about 100 amps, and take it to a local guy in my town to get him to build it up to about 220 amps. A local car audio shop told me that an older Cadillac alternator will bolt right into my car.
Also suggestions on batteries. I'll need something that will have side mounts, and top posts. Optima yellow tops are the only batteries I've seen that have both top posts and side mounts.
Any help would be appreciated.
Which engine in this Cutlass? You have either a 10SI or a 15SI delco alternator. Most of the time a CS144 from a later Cadillac will fit, after a pulley change. A stock CS144 from a 1991 to 1995 Deville will give you 140 amps all day long. I would stay with a stock unit and add batteries.
'Link
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Most cases please allow 4/5day buiild time and 4/5 days for shipping. If you ordered it friday it dosen't get processed till monday so weekends are void for time frame. It should ship thursday they are slammed at the moment so maybe friday.
Then ups will take 4/5 days as well so middle of next week I would look for it. They are built per order so please be patciant with them and you will love the sub. PM me some demintions so we can get you a box design. You could have done a Q they are awsome in sealed enclosures. Let me know on the box.
MLA
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I really said after getting the headliner done. Lots of people say loud cant be pretty well when you cant tell its all molded in and looks factory. People shit when I tell them to punch the roof LOL . Then I tell them its 2" thick hehe
The brace for the center of the enclosure
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I guess someone sent him the post he said while LOL I was a dick. Good times Good times
MLA
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Bro I spent 5min just bobbin my head have some consideration LOL We have modules to build!!!
MLA
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That roof must have been a B*tch to sand.
Or even apply filler to...maybe have to tape over to hold it up there?
Long straind kitty hair resin first, Then lots of thin coats of bondo.
2 weeks in that roof but it looks factory no one even can tell.
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With 1 of 6 zuki audio amps
Fully MDF molded roof
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Sorry Scott I had to!!!! I forgot I even had this pic. This was a month before sema07 at the shop on the hummer amp rack
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With the higher voltage for charging your batteries they no can reach a full level from your alternators charge. This voltage increase will help keep up the batteries a great deal. After all it is a part of electrical and we all now weird sh$% happens now and then. I like to charge mine after the long day of demo's just so I dont have to run the $3.60 a gallon rip off they call gas.
MLA
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I would think having a 14.4-14.8 charge and a 140 amp alt would keep it around a lot longer then it did. I only got 2 1/2 years out of a yellow top. then it died. It didn't get weak, just died.
Batteries can be bad from the day they are made. Battery quality has steadily improved over the last 4 decades (personal observation), with a few stinkers in the line. Where you live (climactic effects) and how you drive play a part in battery life. So does charging curves & voltage.
I have a Duralast (2 year warranty) POS battery in the shop pickup. It has a 1999 mfg date on the side of it, and still shows a 12.7v charge after an 8 hour rest. In the winter I see charging voltages as high as 15.9v, and when summer hits the charging voltage will drop all the way to 14.7 at times. Someday I am sure it will fail to crank the truck, but at 34f this winter it did just fine.
If your system does not have short battery life with the replacment battery, then you probably just had a bad optima.
'Link
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My yellow top is brand new, and look whats happened i think its spiked my ECU and fried it when i put a fuse in for the ECU it just blows it. I put my car on Diagnostic and the vag-com says Fault code - 'System High Voltage' Think i might just put it in the trash and just get a kinetik and now a new ECU.
Well if the OBD still works, your ECU may still be ok.
Let's start with the basic information - Year / Make / Model / Engine ???
Second, which fuse is blowing?
'Link
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OR hit up lowes or home depot in their electrical section they have a push lock 8 hole box. size (3/4x1/2)very small. (basically a distrabution box for 16/18gauge wire). I used them in the hummer with 10 amps, crossover, and a EQ. $4/5 bucks you will have a few left over.
MLA
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They don't last long if their under charged for realz. Most voltage now days(2000ish) keep them about 80% full they don't even get a chance. The smart guy who bench charges them first won't have as many problems.
MLA
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Look at their ebay sales they sold around 6,000 items last year with a very low negative feedback. No bullshit fair price, see what they say it may all be import for that price but most are these days!
MLA
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I would get the 200/250amp just cause if your voltage drops below 12v the fuse wont pop as easy. If the amp gets pissy it can pop, I've had a 300amp fuse and duel 50ampers in the amp and poped the inline and not the amp.
MLA
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It sounds like you have something funky going on for sure. The battery dosen't produce higher voltage it only accepts it. It will have higher cca's which may cause an issuse. Your alternator Gives your battery the voltage reading and the battery can't produce its own voltage. You may have something arching, shorting out or loose terminals. I would check these first before chucking the batt for sure. Alternator spikes would be more of a problem I would think.
Kinetic is good too !!!
Brad aka (link) may be able explain or correct my jiberish.
MLA
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Charging the Yellow top Optima
I am in no way affiliated with Optima battery, and what follows is factual & based on well documented research.
I have observed that some folks really like the Yellow top, and others have had bad experiences. Generally the users results with the yellow top optima are directly related to the charging voltage range of the system it is connected to.
The Optima Yellow Top is capable of accepting a lot of charging currrent, and requires a higher voltage finishing charge for maximum life. They can actually be charged at voltages over 16 volts, and require higher voltages as they get older.
Overcharging the yellow top may not result in damage, and can actually extend it's life considerably if done properly.
Some really smart folks at the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) in Golden, CO spent a whole pile of your tax dollars to scientifically prove this.
They repeatedly discharged test batteries to below 10.5 volts - effectively "dead". They then recharged them to full charge, and added a finishing "overcharge" at elevated voltage. They weighed each battery, observed them with infra-red cameras, etc.
They did this over & over. 356 times on a single battery in fact. A lot of testing. Then they hooked up a bank of 24 yellow top optimas, and started again. Beat them down to 10.5 volts, and then overcharged them. This time they went for 700 charge / discharge cycles. Let me say that again. Seven Hundred Cycles.
The results.
With all of that beating, no cells "dried out". They still weigh within a few grams of the inital weight.
After all of the testing, 21 of the 24 batteries still had resting voltages over 13 volts.
Cycle life was pretty much doubled, by raising the charging voltage.
So, if you have had a bad experience with the Optima Yelow top, take a look at your charging voltage & curve. I have found sometimes that simply putting a "tired" yellow top on the power supply overnight @16 volts will bring it back to life.
For those of you that want to read the whole report, from the govt. website:
NREL White paper on Optima batteries
'Link
Now Heres A Question For You
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
Posted
2003 called, they wan the whistle tips back now. Bubba Rubb will be by to collect them:
Of course, if your car looks like this, you probably need them...