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missinglink

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Posts posted by missinglink

  1. auhh yea their web site sucks. Who would just buy a $400 alt without knowing the out put. Sorry I would send them an email saying you would like to buy one but they don't have any info and your sorry you wasted your time. Some Companies think that by making you wait you will want it more. Not sure about them but yea it was a weird site looked like more for racing not audio. Looked like good quality but thats always deceiving. Keep us up on their responce.

    MLA

  2. tried that too

    when i rev it up it actually drops about .01-.04 volts

    im gonna bring it up to a mechanic today. i hope my alternator is still good

    i noticed that my battery is not charging, everytime i check the voltage it slowly goes down.

    Your alternator is not charging. A drop in voltage from resting to running indicates that you are taking power from the battery, not charging it at all.

    You could have a bad regulator, failed brush, broken wire, a couple of open diodes... The list of possible failures is long.

    I doubt you have a belt tension issue if you have a serpentine belt with the OEM tensioner.

    Some alternators have a self-test capacity. Is this a Ford alternator?

    'Link

  3. LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!!!

    you must be joking.

    i had a 20 amp alt, 1/0 in big 3 with over 5000 strand count, and a run of 1/0 to a HC2400 in the back of the silverado and voltage still dropped to around 12.01

    i wanna run 14.4 - 14.8 during bass notes ;)

    Yea you would see this drop if you are at a stock 14v system. Alternators or batteries will not raise your voltage. You will see a little more amperage is all. If you want a 14.4 to 14.8v you will have to run your alts @ 15+ to get a stable voltage that high when things heat up. Your alt will drop voltage when things get hot its the alts safety feature. If you are relying on the factory voltage set point your 2nd kinetic will be undercharged as well. Add another battery would help keep your power more stable while running them @ 15v will make a differance. Like with most audio set ups if you beat the hell out of it (like me) you will see voltage drops regardless. With a module, if you were dropping to 12v you may only drop to 13v (varies). Battery storage will keep this up longer. Keep them charged @ night with a charger will help too.

    MLA

  4. ok, so i need some help finding an alt for my 2006 F-150.

    i cant find on and its gonna slow me down on the build for the 18 and i was just wanting to know if the alts for the 2003 will fit the position on the 2006.

    4.6 liter engine.

    the alt is on the very front of the engine. pretty much dead center towards the top.

    Your 2006 has a 6G alternator. The 2003's had a 3G alternator. The mounting bolts are the same, but the regulator plug on your truck will not fit the 3G (or 4G) alternator.

    'Link

  5. i wanted to go dual alts but i heard it has to be dead on or it will be a nitemare for me..do you know where i can get a bracket for dual alts?

    We are tooling some duels right now. But I'm selling my duel alts and bracket $900. You would have the same set up as my hummer. If you run 2 you will need the module for sure mine was the reason we developed the module. When you try to splice in the 2nd alt plug your computer kicks out both alts and you get the battery not charging light. Plus the GM has a 80% charge 13.8v set point. The module gets you about 110% and 15v set point.

    MLA

  6. I would do like i did I have 13 batteries little overkill but nice. You could get duel stock alternators (lifetime warranty @zone) And with a module they will put out 300 amp all day long. Add two kinetic 2000 to hold the current. Instead of one alt trying to handle all the load an heats up quickly. This is a stable set up. I have two stock 140amp alts charging all 13 batteries no problems. I run 18,000 watts still stay above 14.5v. Im selling 2 ohio 240amp alts for a 2005 GM. I'll sell 1 alt with a module for $400 shipped. Hope this helps.

    MLA

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