missinglink
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Posts posted by missinglink
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might help, but the problem is your voltage and alternators for everyday cars off their stock plugs just don't reach much above 14volts. This is why its dropping or some bad cells from voltage drops!
MLA
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Ooops I just noticed I put it in the wrong section, musta not have been thinking
Someone wanna move it to Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Crown Vic... 3G or 4G alternators?
How are you connecting the regulators?
You can spin the 3G & 4G alternator either direction. There is a test for the regulator built in the back of it. If you look carefully, it says "Ground here to Test", with an arrow pointing at a hole. A wire in that hole, conected to ground will provide full power to the field -and full output. Be sure you are looking at your voltmeter when you test, and only do it for a few seconds.
If you killed the regulators, they are easy to replace. If you can reach the 4 screws that hold them in, you can do it on the car.
'Link
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If your alt is 65amps you deduct some for the cars electricals You may see 50/60 amps total. You should use more batteries but your vw is only putting out 13.8 to 14v this will never charge a optima. You need to charge the hell out of them I would get a bigger alt and try power master or kinetic they will perform will less voltage. We looked into optima they like 14.8 to 15.8v to start the charging reaction. Or get you a 16v charger and charge them all night before the comp, and between runs. Hope this helps,
MLA
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GM has changed some 07 models to all computer controlled alts. We are trying to see what 07 have the 2 wire 2 hole plug.
We know the 07 avalanche and 08 Tahoe are the lovely 13.8 volts 80% rule in full effect. Any one have any 07/08 and can take a plug pic would be great. Thanks !! Were you able to see what plug was on the cobalt thanks hope we can help.
MLA
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I think they run 160 /169 @ auto zone depends on how bad you need it!
MLA
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Steve, you are a freaking maniac.
Lucky (too bad maybe?) you did not set his tester on fire.
'Link
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both alts, mod, and do you have a dual braket that will fit a 97 vortec 305?
I will see on the bracket But that would be more of course. I paid $1,200 for 2 alts and the bracket. I will check on the fit.
If you want all of it 2 alts , Bracket, and a module. $900 for all of it.
$50 for shipping I will cover anything over.
MLA
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It is going on a 02 chevy avalanche. Stock is 105 if that helps. After I posted I realized it was two different cases. I completely understand your concern on a dual rectifier. I have been reading more since post and in a daily driver a rectifier outside the case could be a major issue. I am almost 100 percent sure its an it is a small case AD244 if thats possible. I have read about large case and small case alternator for this engine 5.3 v8 not sure what years. Any suggestions will be helpful as I am still a little confused. I plan on ordering the odyessy battery this weekend, then install it and check voltage at full tilt then making a final selection on an alternator.
Your Avalanche came with an AD230, which is a "baby" AD244. The mounting holes & regulator plug are the same, so it is 'plug & play". The optional alternator was an AD244 rated at 130 amps. I have never seen a stock AD244 that would not make more than that.
You can get a reman AD244 at the local chain parts store, and see if that is enough power for your system. Or you can step straight into a HO version from Nations / Ohio / Quick Start / Spring Hill / Rush / HO / etc. I am sure I left some out,
Just remember that you need an AD244 with the 4 pin plug for your vehicle. Keep in mind that the 244 was designed to make 140 amps for hours at a time, and that while you may be able to push one to twice that - it will not live as long, and will get pretty hot doing it. An AD244 making 190 amps gets hot enough to blister your skin if you touch it.
'Link
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Pretty honest reply, I respect that part about may not even need one of your modules. Just shows your not out to make a buck but educate people. So I am pretty set on this battery.... still looking for HO alternator though. What is the real difference between http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/ext/order.html and http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/ad244.html. I know it says dual rectifier but what is that? Also any bought from these guys?
Two very different alternators there. What exactly are you putting this on?
The AD244 is some of the best engineering in Delphi's line. Dual internal fans, Avalanche type rectifiers, easy brush service. A stock AD244 is a 145 amp unit, and is happy to run at full load for long periods of time. Chris has a pair in his H2, charging 13 Kinetik 2400's. Tough units. The internal regulator is bolted to the case, and has good overtemperature protection. I have seen the pair in the H2 hot enough to hurt yourself on a time or two...
The CS144 series is a good choice for older vehicles that need a spool mount for drop-in installation. The CS144 is a 140 amp unit stock, with a single fan on the front of the case. A good unit.
The "dual rectifier" modification makes me nervous. That assembly is just the same rectifier that is inside the case, hanging off the back. It has plenty of surfaces on it that are "live" electrically, and they get HOT thermally. The one mounted inside the alternator has good airflow because the air is forced to move through it. The one outside of the case has no ducting for airflow. The added length may keep you from mounting that unit in stock locations, and the exposed rectifier presents a short circuit hazard that could be a real mess if you dropped a wrench on it...
I have not heard anything particulally bad about that company you linked to. If you are buying an alternator of any kind be wary of the inexpensive import clones. A real AD244 has " DELPHI AD44" cast as raised letters in the front of it, sort of wrapped around the pulley area. CS144's are no longer produced by Delco/Delphi, but original ones have "Delco Remy USA" cast as raised lettering on the rear case next to the regulator plug.
The biggest issues I have seen with the import clones is the use of cheap (leaky) rectifiers, which generates considerable electrical noise. They do not use the avalanche (zener) type rectifiers either, so there is no clamping of spikes over 20 volts. Second complaint is usually mechanical noise from cheap bearings & housing mis-alignment. They tend to ship the reject parts along with the top quality stuff...
'Link
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is this a good replacement battery? http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1500.htm
It fits and has more output than stock. I am currently experiencing voltage drops and waiting on price quotes for HO alternator. So is a 200 or 250 amp alternator and this battery a good match?
Very similar price to powermaster 2400 and appears to have better numbers. Again I AM NEW TO batteries looking for any advise or suggestions.
EDIT: and its side mount
Those are great batteries for many applications. The Odyssey battery is a straight lead battery - no calcium / tin / antimony / selinium or other crap. Since it is a VRLA battery you need to monitor the charging voltages, and keep it from running over 15.0 volts. It will not explode at 15.1 or anything stupid like that, but continued charging at high voltage will cause gassing near the end of charge - and the vent valve will open. Not a big deal if you see 15.5 volts for a couple of minutes on a cold morning, but you should not charge them on a big shop charger for an hour at 16 volts.
The REAL Odyssey manufacturer's website is HERE, and you can read the whole manual on the battery HERE.
A good match up with a high output alternator, and easy to charge. You may not even need one of my modules.
'Link
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I have 2 Ohio Generator 240amp alts with smaller modified pulleys. AD244/ GM Fit. $500 dollars shipped.
I will do both alts and a module for $600 shipped. Thanks,
MLA/Chris
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Any alternator brand will work. I like stock 140amp alts they put out good power and cost less. Adding a module to a stock set up gets you around 150amps constint. A 200amp alt may only be 10 to 15 more amps than stock. Granted its more but not $200 more to me. If you want a 200amp system use a few more batteries this will dampin the strain on the alternator. Use your stock alt if thats not enough with a extra battery then go for the bigger alt. Your cars computer does control the alternators regulator @ 13.8. Our module for GM is plug and play. (simple install) We will get your voltage up to 15+ COLD 14.6-14.8 hot use this voltage increase to determine how much more and of what you will need. (alt / batteries) A module will work on both types stock / high output. Email us your info and we can get you some answers to the 130D. I'll send your question to link he's the guru he can get you all the info on the alts. Thanks,
MLA
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I think the hole independent study thing is poo!( my opinion ) I can't see a lab wasting all that time if they didn't have some way of selling the spec sheets to make money!!! You can't tell me they are the first to say independent study. Fast food has been doin the same thing for decades. Go figure somebody pays some one to make up dirt ( USA WAY MANE). Not saying this is the case don't want to take sides this is my (overall) opinion.
Chris
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At spring break nationals we found out if you daisy chain over 4 amps you will lose some signal. Hope this helps some
MLA
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Yea i was thanking of getting one of them for the duals i will be running can i get a link.
missinglinkaudio.com email any info to : [email protected]
If you think you want to run duels buy our duel now it still will work one a single till you drop in the 2nd alt. Thanks,
MLA
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We made a long list of reasons in our manufactururs section near the end you can read all the info on caps.
Hope it helps
MLA
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Yes his brackets are uni-z.
The only problem with making all the duel alt brackets is there are so many combinations on cars way to many to tool. Which is why people stick to the most common. It takes alot to develop one through manufacturing. We are tooling our own duel bracket for the GM and we will have a combo kit =(both bracket and module) for around $450. Thanks,
MLA
Ford is next we didn't forget you guys
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This would help with your voltage drops. We saw the 300amp fuses get eaten up like candy before we got my voltage up!!! I had 6 300amp kicker fuses on the sema set up when my volts would hit 11v on the 28 hertz note (pop go the fuses ) Since upping my voltage with the module stays above 14.5 while demo's no popped fuses.
MLA
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Run the alt seperate from the cars harness would be no big deal. Stand alone would be easier if you would ever want to resale it and keep your good alt.
MLA
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I wasnt talking about 7 cell batts and ive never heard of an 8 cell 12V battery either.
lol...and thanks, you just verified that im right.
LOL what :
I only verified that our numbers are so close when you were stating that a 15.5v charge was unsafe but add up your own 2.583@ 6 cells = 15.498. Sorry for the pissin match guy's but damn!!!
My quote:
Since I run mine at 16.2v COLD they stabilize @ 15.8 or so when hot. This is a custom unit for the amount of batteries I have and use for demo's. We have a standard module that will charge 4-6 batteries, its set point is 15.5 COLD when hot it will stabilize @ 14.7LOL : This is your statement where you mentioned the 8cell battery. (sorry)
QUOTE(SPL2K @ Apr 22 2008, 11:58 AM)
Ive never heard of "safely" charging at 2.6 to 2.8 volts per cell. I was taught that 2.583 per cell is the max safe voltage so when you said 16.2, i assumed you were over charging a 12 volt system (12.66-15.49) or you had a 16 volt system that should be between 16.88 and 20.66.
8 cells at 16.2 would be a "dying 16v system" in my opinion.
MLA: Thanks you for the battle though , Good times Good times
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Kinetic has the 16v with the 12v post kinda nice. (sorry if this was said already). The biggest thing on the 16.9 volt system is how fast the alternators will heat up. This would be a huge down fall for the daily driver plan. You could run a 12v with a charging voltage of 16v flat. This is how I got more power out of the MA audio 10k's. More than 12v and not enough for 16.9v in the middle is safe overall. (my opinion)
MLA
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Thanks for the props and pics. Glad we could help. More batteries are always a good thing. You can never have to many we have 13 batteries it the AA demo car!!! Bump for 4 days at sema show and never started it. Thanks,
MLA
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Ok how do you figure the math up?
Nick:
The math is fairly simple. Watts are calculated by multiplying current in Amps times Voltage. 100 amps X 14.7 Volts = 1470 Watts.
The RMS output of an amplifier is basically it's DC power rating. RMS Watts = DC Watts in a sine wave situation. It is close enough for basic calculations with audio output, so we will keep using it.
So, if you have a 200 amp alternator it can make 200 X 14.7 = 2940 Watts. That is a maximum rating, and without enough cooling it will either shut down or melt eventually.
Now for the batteries. 50% discharge is as much as you should push a battery. So if you have a 100 amp/hour battery, you have 50 Ah available. At full charge the resting voltage is 12.65 volts At 50% charge the resting voltage is 12.24 volts. Since the response is fairly linear, we will use the average:
12.65 + 12.24 = 24.89 /2 = 12.445 volts average during discharge. This means that your 100 Ah battery can provide 50 amps x 12.445 volts = 622 watts for one hour, or 1244 watts for a half hour.
Now for the bad news. The amplifier is not 100% effecient. That 6,000 watts RMS has peaks much higher than that, and is probably about 80% effecient. The alternator in your car has other work to do, so you can't use all of that power either.
You can extend your playing time by adding batteries, but it will also extend your charging time. You can add charging capacity (more alternators), but there are limits on space. The best answer is to add both batteries and charging capacity, and to avoid discharging your batteries too deep.
'Link
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How can I get a missing link, and how does it work? Do I need to do anything to my stock wiring or what? Please let me know. I am going to upgrade my alt to a 200 amp H/O alt and I believe my stock regulator for my 02 sunfire is set for 13.8 volts. I know I want 14.4 for sure. Let me know. Thank you very much.
Joseph
I show 4 different alternators for the 2002 Pontiac Sunfire. Two of them are CS130D units, and are compatible with a module we have on the shelf.
The other two are Valeo units, and there is no plan to produce a module for them right now.
The CS130D has a regulator plug that looks like this:
If you pull that plug out and look in the socket on the alternator, you will see the male pins. If you have four pins, and your plug looks like the picture you are good to go.
Our website is Missing Link Audio
Thanks for your interest!
'Link
I Thought I Had Decided
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
First get set on 1 3000watt or 2 @ 5000 watt this is a big difference. Batteries will help for sure what type of car?
MLA