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i like fi

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Posts posted by i like fi

  1. First of all.

    I do know how to do a recone.

    Second i could use tons of stuff for a shim.

    But you experts use "manila folder" , first time i heard word manila in my life. "this is to those who left smart ass comments."

    For those who gave pointers, thanks buddies.

  2. Do i have to make sure not to spray too much activator on ca?

    How long does it take for ca to dry without activator?

    I know there are tons of diff types, but want to find some info.

    i using 1 15" daily option, old coil looked good, tensils not. one tensil broke in half so i was making twice less power.

    holes in spider. but coil like new after 2k rms and dc offset.

  3. thanx.

    Scott said use any 5 min epoxy at homedepot.

    I removed a backet to put lil epoxy under it, by now im thinking if basket has to be aligned to motor (in a way where lead are position to the motor) leads only. Because if you look into the motor, the pole and magnet has a tamper(offset) by about 1/4".

    I was thinking if sub leads have to positioned in relation to this offset magnet and pole?

  4. It doesn't have to be loud to move air. The box could just be tuned in the 20's with a ton of port velocity and move air like that with no problem. I don't doubt at all that 1500 watts is going to put a btl at full xmax and cause it to move a ton of air. I've had 15's that were tuned to 24hz and when it played that it shook the steering wheel so bad it looked like it was going to fall off and it didn't meter that well at all. Point is just because you can move a shirt in a window doesn't mean that it's the loudest 15 ever. I bet that setup isn't doing over a 145 on the dash db drag style.

    The btl will blow if u throw 3k watts to it because of the design, i said 1 of the best for its size, i havent seen better"for its size" tune is 30

    we dont got to much termlab here. as far as spl yea plenty of dudes are louder at 50hz and sound like shit, my shit isnt for spl.

  5. take your dmm set it to ohms and then touch the contacts of the dmm together it should read something like .6 you have to minus that .6 from the total number showing

    dmm's read differntly cheap dead batt's in the dmm will do that

    Thanks you are right. its 0.5 par.

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