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00sdime00

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  2. FS: Three (3) DC Power Inc 270SP Booger Green Powdercoated alts

    in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only

    Posted

    I have 3 DC Power Inc 270sp alts for sale. They were on my 2000 S-10. I am not positive on what other GM vehicles they will work on. I hate to get rid of them, but I have to make room for the new DC Power alts. :D

    These are powerhouses and have hardly any use on them at all (considering my truck has never left the garage since I've owned them). I am asking 350 each shipped or 1000 for all three shipped to your door. I will not ship outside the US and I am not considering any trades. I will provide more pictures once I take them off of the truck. Thank you.

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  12. Airbag ???????????'s

    in Air Ride / Hydraulics - Got Switches? Want Switches? Post here!

    Posted

    I am planning on installing Airbags on my 96' Impala SS. I have a few question for the people that know alot about this S***. I am probably going to go with Slam bags unless someone cantalk me out of it. I like how they don't ballon out just up (less Metal to cut in the front).

    -How big of tank do I need?

    -Do I really need a 1/2" setup or will a 3/8's work. (I don't like the really fast up and down)

    -What compressors would you recommend?

    -Where do you get your stuff?

    Thank you ahead of time. And I know I had more questions just can't remember right now.

    Lets see here....

    "-How big of tank do I need?"

    That depends on how much playtime you want, how much pressure you are running in your system, and the CFM output of your compressor/s. I'd say start with a 5 gallon first as tanks and fittings are comparatively cheap to buy if you decide to add another tank.

    "-Do I really need a 1/2" setup or will a 3/8's work. (I don't like the really fast up and down)"

    If you are running 200 psi, 3/8" valves with 1/2" line is plenty fast enough.

    "-What compressors would you recommend?"

    I would stick with Viair or Air Zenith...Or if you got the cash, get an Oasis.

    "-Where do you get your stuff?"

    Suicidedoors.com

    waylayedinc.com

    hornblasters.com- They sell more than just trainhorns....If you talk to Rigo, tell him that Joe Spalding sent you, and he will hook it up.

  15. Runnng an amp at half it's rated ohm load

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    I know exactly what you are saying, my point was that lower voltage with lower ohm load is what creates that heat, not just wiring to lower ohm load. If I wire to .5 ohm and my voltage drop 4 volts vs. no drop, which one would have more heat? Obviously my amp is gonna get hella hotter with the larger voltage drop, NOW was that from wiring it down in ohm load? NO!!! My electrical couldn't handle it, so my voltage sagged and created the heat from the increase in current flow....

    I guess maybe I am just looking at this from a input side only and he is stressing output side....LOL

    I can't multiquote right now and it's a pain in the ass to post as it is, but I will quote one of your earlier comments... "Wiring down in ohm load isn't what increases heat, the additional current is what creates that heat from the voltage drop, if you have ZERO drop, you are able to keep the voltage up, then it will NEVER get not at any ohm load!!!!!"

    I guess you missed my point that wiring it to a lower Ω load WILL increase the heat produced due to the increased draw from both the output section and power supply. Regardless of if the input voltage is sagging or not. Now I understand that in your case, you had inadequate electrical to support your amp running at .5....I'm on your page, but I don't think you're on mine. :D

    And thats the end of my lesson for this morning. lol

  16. Runnng an amp at half it's rated ohm load

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    You get heat from voltage sag. And not have correct electrical, sure you will get more heat if you try to pull 300 amps thru some 4 gauge cable that is 15 ft long.

    Sure you will get heat from voltage sag. That's basic electronic theory. As the voltage goes down the power supply will try to compensate by drawing more current....up to a point where things start to fail if protection don't kick in. Skittles is also correct. By loading an amp down like that, the current flowing through the output section and power supply will go UP. Ohms law as you stated ealier. If I were to compare readings(directly off of the output FETs and power supply FETs) of any amp with a steady input voltage (Say 14.4V) wired at 1Ω vs .5Ω, I would bet you my paycheck that the amp wired at .5Ω would be hotter. Depending on how well the amp was designed along with how much thermal mass the heatsink has, there may be a slight difference...but there would be a difference.

    Nicks bitch about wiring that low has to do with current also.....the current flowing through the coil/coils of the sub.(That and the "junk" Korean amps...lol) Think of it like this....you have 2 amps. Both do 3kw, only one does 3kw with 100vac and 30a at the terminals. The other does 3kw with 50vac and 60a. Which one do you think will toast a coil first? 60a is a lotta current to pull even through an 18ga coil winding.

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