mrazandrewm
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Posts posted by mrazandrewm
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Here's a sketch of what I did under my rear seat of my Supercab F150 (mine has the hump up towards the back). Hopefully, you can get an idea or two from it.
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Hey guys. A while ago, I saw this post on Sundown Audio's facebook page explaining the differences of each of their 8 inch subwoofer lines. Thought I'd post it here and hopefully it'll get stickied for others to find easily.
In order to help with your choice of which 8" woofer to buy from our line-up here is a brief summary :- E-8 v.4 : Traditional sounding woofer -- very similar performance to the older SA-8 v1 and 1.5 models both mechanically and thermally. It is optimized for ported enclosures.
- SD-2 8 : Under-hung, ultra low distortion woofer. Sound is more similar to our new platform drivers like the X and Z v.4 series due to flat suspension compliance curve. It is optimized for sealed enclosures & is the only 8" that we produce that I recommend for sealed enclosures.
- SA-8 v.3 : Over-hung, low distortion driver optimized for ported boxes. The SA-8 v.3 also has a very flat compliance curve (same spider design as SD-2 model but 2x the stiffness) making it more similar to the X and Z v.4 type sound.
- X-8 : Traditional sounding woofer -- "punchy" -- the surround & spider were designed with a traditional compliance curve in mind resulting in a very punchy sound. This woofer is more optimized for SPL than any of our other 8s.
Found here: https://www.facebook.com/sundownusa/posts/833769213345218
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Update: Ran new ground to frame. Floorboard already had a hole in it from factory. Just had to use a punch to make a hole through the carpet. Now amp and LC2i does not cut out. Also, I made my own power and ground distribution bar. Wiring is better now as well. Thanks for all your recommendations!
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So would .75 cu before displacement be ok? Would 800rms be a better option? Or stick with the sae-1000
You'll want .75 cu after all displacements (sub and port).
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You definintly can run a test wire to the battery to see if the amp is working.
Already did. I got 12.6V on the amp power and ground connections. Whereas before I would only get ~3V. Also did a small jumper from the power wire to the REM. Amp powered up and not in protect!!! I'm quite happy now.
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I might have been useful to know that the amp was cutting out on you previously.
Still could have been a ground issue though.
Yeah. Sorry about that. But this was way different. The amp wouldn't power on. Nor would it get up to 12+ volts with the new ground. I now know it's a grounding issue. Will be grounding to the frame now.
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You could do it that way but you'll have a lot less wire and work involved if you just run it to the frame.
I just make two new 14" short runs and wanted to test and see if my equipment was working or not. But I will be drilling the body so I can connect to the frame. Thanks Broke for everything.
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Did you try hooking it back up into the place where it was grounded the first time?
No, I changed the location because the amp would cut in and out at 1/2 my normal listening volume.
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I prefer the bolt nut and washer but if you have a big enough self tapper with a star washer that should work too.
After you get it connected spray it with paint or rust inhibitor to keep it from rusting.
Sounds good. What about testing the amp right now? Would connecting it directly to the battery help? Positive will be fused. Negative will go to negative terminal on battery.
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So drill through the floorboard and directly connect to frame? Might as well do that.
Still the same thing applies.It's not a seat belt bolt. It's a bolt that holds the seat to the cab of the truck. But Thanks for the tip.
If you have a truck why aren't you grounding it to the frame?
Yes and make sure you Sand off any rust and use a bolt to attach it.
Bolt, washer and nut or self-tapping screw with star washer?
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check all your fuses and terminal/battery connections are tight and secure... connect the ground back to the original spot and see if it works, if it does then you no the issues is the new ground spot
I'll hook up the amp directly to the battery. Positive end will have fuse in line. Ground will be connected to negative terminal. Best ground possible right?
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Still the same thing applies.It's not a seat belt bolt. It's a bolt that holds the seat to the cab of the truck. But Thanks for the tip.
If you have a truck why aren't you grounding it to the frame?
So drill through the floorboard and directly connect to frame? Might as well do that.
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It's not a seat belt bolt. It's a bolt that holds the seat to the cab of the truck. But Thanks for the tip.
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Yes. I checked with a mutimeter. I get 0.2 to 0.3 ohms with the new ground. The ground is connected to a bolt that holds down the seat on the front. Will post pics when I get home.
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Hey guys. I was changing my ground to a new/better location and now my amplifier will not turn on. No power led or protect led is lit when vehicle is on. I have the REM jumped to the power to check to see if it would work. That is not the case however. I checked the voltage before and after the fuse. Both sides show 14.5v. However, when I check the voltage at the amplifier, it only reads 2.4v. That's not normal is it? When I remove the power wire from the amp the voltage shows 14.5v while vehicle is running. However, when I check the voltage at the amplifier (power wire plugged in), it only reads 2.4v. That's not normal is it? Is my amp fried?*Side note* All three 40 amp fuses are not blown on the amp either. Thanks.
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No. But you are welcome to wait for others to respond as well.
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Yes for the power and 1 ft3 for the enclosure tuned around 34Hz.
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I'm not the one being disrespectful. People who don't keep their commitments are the ones being disrespectful. If something happened then tell us. Don't keep us hanging in the dark.
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Seriously??? Was this a scam just so his buddy can get noticed easier?
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It's only for the people who have posted a pic on here. That's what the OP said.
2011 F-150 Supercrew 4 x "X-6.5"
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
Posted
Here's the link to a company that I used for my seat lift. The kit is only $145 plus $18 S&H. Increases the overall lift of the seat by 2.5 inches. If you have a hardware store that sells 1/8 inch think washers, you can add a few of them to increase the overall seat lift height by putting those on the bolts/studs before installing the seat lift kit from LMI Welding. Overall, it was a great kit to work with. Very easy and the instructions are easy to follow as well.