cLos510
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Posts posted by cLos510
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ddm=digital multi meter
i have had bad luck with yellow tops..
Ok and with the car off the battery is at 12.7 and with the car on ita at 13.8v
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please be more clear.. which meter stock or DMM and where did you plug it? have you check all the wiring to see if its secure? have you checked if it has a fuse and if the fuse is working properly? check for loose wires on every connection.. if the alt would be bad the battery light on the dash and maybe the check engine light would be on.. if they are not on then the alternators is working but somewhere there is a bad connection how old is the batter and what brand is it. cant you test it after turning your car off taking note of voltage then rechecking hours later to check the voltage?
Im using my dads multimeter and whats a dmm? And those lights are not coming on the dash and i checked for loose connections but everything seems to be solid, i dnt see that the alternator has a fuse..and the front battery is a yellow top optima at least a year old, but idk how long it has been sitting in the car shop i got it from
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When i started the car the meter was bouncing all over but then it rested at 13.11volts for the alternator
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yes.. did the shop take care of that? 1/0 wire for that alt would be good.
Well i did that but it looks like they ran a 2nd 4 gauge wire so now theres 2
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you shouldnt talk before knowing.. i have ran DC alts.. and there is a person i got one from that he can prove i have DC alts. im also not new to alternators.. i have swapped in and wired alts to my cars even before being a member in this forum.. the ones you have had are not the one the OP has.. i know the ones i had have ran at 15.2 and drop to 14.8 but not ecm controlled. not all alternators and vehicles are the same. also not all DMM are accurate.. i have a high end one that reads one thing and a $20 one and the readings are way off.. my high dollar one matches with the smd meter and xs power meter the cheapy one matches with none
go ahead and ask kevin from cnf who got his a DC alternator when he got 8 xs power d3100 from him.. then go ask broke audio who bought his dc power alternators
illl take this to the pm's miguiel....
i dont what to clogged up your thread op... im in hayward so hit me up if you want me to check it out , ill be sure to take my harbor freight DM, fluke RMS DM, fluke clamp, amm-1.
Sure how do i get a hold of u
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ground it to the frame and battery.. do you even have the big 3 done?
The big 3 is the positive post of battery to the positive of alternator and the negative of battery to ground and the frame of the alternator to the chassis?
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yes but you can rule the alternator is bad.. check connections.. check every wire like grounds and even the back plug on the alternators.. all that can make it not operate properly
Yea i noticed other ppls 12v systems would be at 13.8 or even 14
13.6-13.8 yes. Less than that, no. No vehicle on a standard 12v electrical system will charge that low. the only reason for voltage to read lower than that all of the time is the alternator isn't charging at the voltage it should be.many alternators charge at 13v.. my singer did too the only difference is that it held 13v with a load.. check connections and amp gain.. on my expo i would drop to 11v with a mechman that does 240a at idle set at 13.8v. set the gains with DD-1 and it was fixed..
Ive asked different ppl the question of if i should ground the alternator to the chassis and ive got different answers, so would it matter if i didnt ground it or not
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510? are you in the bayarea?
yea you probably have a loose connection somewhere or a bad alt... with your voltmeter ground your negative lead (battery, or frame of car, bare metal) and with your positive lead directly to your positive output stud in the alternator while the car is ruining and that will narrow down whats going on, then post results here..
guys i found his alt it has to charge at 14.4..
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/Nissan~Altima~2010~2.5L-I4-QR25DE/11258-320-spx-i.html
Yes union city (bay area)
And ok ill do that
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13.6-13.8 yes. Less than that, no. No vehicle on a standard 12v electrical system will charge that low. the only reason for voltage to read lower than that all of the time is the alternator isn't charging at the voltage it should be.many alternators charge at 13v.. my singer did too the only difference is that it held 13v with a load.. check connections and amp gain.. on my expo i would drop to 11v with a mechman that does 240a at idle set at 13.8v. set the gains with DD-1 and it was fixed..
Yea i noticed other ppls 12v systems would be at 13.8 or even 14
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Most shops are notorious for doing things half assed or just flat out wrong.
Well the shop supposedly tuned and set everything with the 3sixty.3 but i can still set the gain on the amp with the dd1?many alternators charge at 13v.. my singer did too the only difference is that it held 13v with a load.. check connections and amp gain.. on my expo i would drop to 11v with a mechman that does 240a at idle set at 13.8v. set the gains with DD-1 and it was fixed..
Yea, im not a total noobie at this but i wish there was somewhere reliable in my area that i could go to that would actually know what thier doing..it would be cool if rockford could have thier own ppl who kno thier products to install things themselves
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the 3sixty.3 i never messed with but its a possessor not a gain setting.. you need to set the gain on the amp
Ok thanks, makes sense, ill try that and see what happens
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many alternators charge at 13v.. my singer did too the only difference is that it held 13v with a load.. check connections and amp gain.. on my expo i would drop to 11v with a mechman that does 240a at idle set at 13.8v. set the gains with DD-1 and it was fixed..
Well the shop supposedly tuned and set everything with the 3sixty.3 but i can still set the gain on the amp with the dd1?
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Also post your enclosure specs if you know them and pics would help for sure.
I dnt know them, i can ask the shop that made the box, but i doubt they saved the specs..and idk how to post pictures on here
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If its computer controlled can it be changed? And it only takes seconds, wenever i turn the bass up or the volume on the head unitAlt might be computer controlled.
I'd bet you're clipping big time too.
How long does it take to bring the voltage that low?
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See my statement about swapping with a known good alt and looking for the voltage to rise. How are you measuring the 13.2?
Yea 13.2 with no musicSo are you saying that your normal voltage stays at 13.2 without music playing? If so, that's issue number one, the voltage drop to 11V can wait.
Well i just measures the yellow top battery under the hood and it read 12.72 volts..using a volt meter
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So are you saying that your normal voltage stays at 13.2 without music playing? If so, that's issue number one, the voltage drop to 11V can wait.
Yea 13.2 with no music
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What brand 320A alt?
DC power
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bit of topic here but do you have pictures you can post.. would like to see your setup..
I dnt know exactly how to post pictures on here
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it coulf be that the gain is set a bit high.. you shouldnt be dropping that bad as long as the batteries are still good.
the subs not getting loud could be in the box itself
Yea, well the shop i went to built me a custom bandpass box that has the port going directly into the cabin of the car, which kinda has me confused as to why its not as loud
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before you buy another battery.. how are the gains set, who set them and how was it done?
Everything was set by a RF 3sixty.3 and a local shop tuned it..i did notice that the subs arent that loud and wen u try turning it up the output led light goes to the +2db(red) without turning the knob all that much
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Well, with you having the potential to pull about 300-350a of current or so, with a stock alternator that may only be 80a (with about 40a going to accessories of the vehicle), you have probably enough reserve to stay in the 13's IF you had a 250a or so alternator to back it.I have a yellow top battery under the hood and a D3100 as a secondary. I have two T2 twelves and a RF T2500.1, T800.4 and wenever i turn up the volume i see my voltage drops to around 11v..ive seen other ppl use 12v batteries and have thier voltage at high 13v or even 14 volts. Would adding another D3100 bring up the voltage or would wven do anything?
"It takes power to make power."
Well i do have a 320 amp alternator though so im just wondering if 13.2 volts is normal or if i should be at a higher voltage with the 2 batteries and that alternator
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what vehicle is it in. might be on the limits of the stock alt.
Its a 2010 nissan altima, but i have a dc power h/o alternator 320 amp..i remembered when i had the yellow top inatalled i didnt charge it so could it be that if that battery is not at its full potential that its not allowing anything more than 13.2 volts, because thats what im at on idle
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I have a yellow top battery under the hood and a D3100 as a secondary. I have two T2 twelves and a RF T2500.1, T800.4 and wenever i turn up the volume i see my voltage drops to around 11v..ive seen other ppl use 12v batteries and have thier voltage at high 13v or even 14 volts. Would adding another D3100 bring up the voltage or would wven do anything?
Voltage drop
in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Posted
Ok,..i was told that if i dnt charge a battery before its 1st use and its low that it will never reach its full potential