Graph1cz
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Posts posted by Graph1cz
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easiest way to learn how to make sketchups of my boxes?
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help please
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kicker imo
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Definatley go with the DC man. You wont regret it!
he told me the rms of the level 3's were 600. would i be able to throw more to it?
/e rusty told me.
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can i suggest stay away from sony amps, i got one and it blew smoke after 5 hours of play not even turned up all the way, get a hifonics amp much better then sony and a great bang for the buck
i've had this sony for almost 2 years now and it has never overheated or anything on me.
heres another question
should i get a lvl 3 15" DC or a 15" cvr? dc is more expensive but i think it'd be worth it. of course i'd need a new amp
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sounds good
kicker does like higher tuning, 37 should be great.
if you didnt buy the wire yet shop around, jl is one of the most expensive, but not necessarily the best. as long as you're finding the same diameter of copper and it's flexible enough to work with, wire half the price will be just as good.
as far as positioning, none of us will know what works best. some vehicles like sub back port side, or sub up port up, sub back port up, etc.
my vote is sub back port back, usually the best in my experience, closely followed by sub up port back
build it, test it, spin it around and face it in every direction and see what is loudest and go from there., use a reference song that is the same volume and note, and same volume on the h/u obviously, something like "ay bay bay" or " a milli"
then again, remember that acoustics are funky, and what is loudest at say 40hz, could be the worse at 32hz
and set a subsonic filter if you can, with your tuning and loading in the rear it should still play like 30hz with ease, go much below that at high volume and you're going to find out what unloading a subwoofer does.
well im going to have a bass remote basically on the equalizer so i was going to use that to control songs like put on, in the hood, love of money etc.
buying all that i posted is going to cost around 600$ without the box. Im aiming more towards being loud and having sq. would this setup be nice?
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heres the plan for my system
3.2 cu ft box tuned to 37 hz (kickers like highertuned boxesfrom what ive heard)
mb quart components
crunch 4 channel amp
15" kicker cvr dual 2 ohm
sony amp 500 rms bridged @ 4 ohms
clarion headunit 6v preouts usb ipod the works.
4 gauge JL audio wiring with 100 amp ANL fuse
distribution block for the 2 amps
soundstream equalizer
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im curious about this also
but im thinking about running 2 level 3 15"s or 2 level 4 12"s
imo 15's wouldbe louder
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i've had good luck with sub back port back
sub up port back is kinda for when you cant fit all your cone area facing back
well i've only had experience with sub up port back in a suv but that was my cousins with 2 jl w6's on 1k rms
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getting 1 15" kicker cvr ran off of my sony amp 500rms (cea compliant)
putting it in a 3.2 cu ft before displacement ported box tuned to 37 hz
being put in a suv
now. should i do port up sub up or sub back port back?
i was thinking of sub up port back.
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positive power wire? or positive speaker wire? and by jump it you mean put the two together in the remote turn on hole?
Sry, I thought I knew a lot of this stuff, but I've NEVER heard of this method
put a small wire from your 12+ to your remote and itll be like a constant remote, amp wont turn off just see if itll play that way/turn on that way
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update: I turned all the settings the other way, apparently I had the gain maxed out lol... I was confused and thought .2 was less than 6. I guess not though. Anyways, I got it to turn on and not go into protect while music was playing (car was off) So I turned the car on, and it didn't turn on. The big Crunch light didn't light up...
Why isn't this working?
could temperature be an issue? could my remote wire be messed up? the wire looked a little bad... maybe ill restrip it..
it shouldnt be getting hot if you're not playing it
try restripping the remote or replacing the wire completely
check ground also and rca
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its a 94 maxima and and with the subs and amps, box, and wires I dont want to go over $1200 since I only paid 5500 for the car lol but its super clean and in great condition tho
i would say go with a 15" DC level 4 with crunchs new 2000 rms amp
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.. but heres the problem, I want to install 2 rockford fosgate 12s in as well and I already picked the ones Im going to get and Im going to upgrade my amp too, but I dont know how to go about adding them to my existing speaker hookup...
XD
so he has the rf subs. which ones lol
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dont mix the explods with the rockfords, either go with 2 or 4 of the same kind, make your own box im sure somebody on the forum would help you draw up plans and get some power to them, what kinda of vehicle? and those explods did not pull 2k watts from an amp and that amp didnt push 2k watts
oh yea and welcome to SMD
i didnt see that he wanted to ADD the rf's i thought he wanted to replace them. but yeah definetly get rid of the xplodes.
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well first, we need to know your budget for the subs+amp
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this is the reason he gave me the truck man...im not abusin it im trying to see what the problem is. he said its never done it before so he gave it to me to check out and im postin up everywhere to see if someone has an anser.
electrical is completely stock....there were some funny smells for a little bit last week when another friend re-wired the subs, and btw i have no clue how they are wired.
but other than that nothing
i still think its because his voltage is dropping low. Or the amp is touching a ground of something else grounded to the car. my cousin had a cap and installed it grounded it to the body of the car and if he turned it up it would cut everything out. make sure the ground is good and if he has a cap then to make sure that ground is good.
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i believe it is because his voltage is dropping too low
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no offense but prices are pretty steep. I've gotten 2 cvrs brand new in a kicker box 150$ shipped.
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im learning more and more that kicker doesnt like low tune
most cvr boxes ive seen are 40-43hz, kicker prefabs are like 42 or something, imo at 28hz you're wasting alot of space on a port and lowering output, try for 34 atleast.
should make a lil noise=)
really wanted some good 15's for a cheap price and cvrs are really good for my taste, my friends 2 12" cvrs in a kicker ported box beats down on 700 rms total. I wanted 28 hz for a cheap GP lol
a buddy of mine had the same setup except he didnt let me build him a box had a shitty prefab and it wasnt that bad could definately been louder so you should hit pretty niceis that 500rms a piece?
yup 500a peice.
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2 15" kicker cvr's in a 6 cu ft box AFTER displacement, ported tuned to 28 hz on 1k rms
would it pound? most likely in a 2 door blazer or something of the sort.
sub up port back is my idea for the box.
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how would the SSD compare to the level 4?
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would a Q take 1.5k rms? Whats the main difference between the Q and the lvl 4? i just want one loud 15 that can get down
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its 304 for a fi q 15 with bp power.
now i need to find out how much level 4's are =/
Oh How I Miss My Cvrs
in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
Posted · Edited by Graph1cz
might not look loud to you guys, but it was satisfying me enough
never got the chance to make a custom box for them.