SteelCityGhost
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Posts posted by SteelCityGhost
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Is this true? If so is it really 5-8db? 5 to 8 seems awful high to me even if it is inefficient.
8db may be a bit higher. It was just a rough guess. Didn't want to take the time to try and figure out the equations, etc. However, a sh*tty box design will cost you dbs, and a good box design will add dbs. Probably close to a 5-8db difference.
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Ok here we go. This is my third redention of this box. This time I did dual ports on the side of the box. I had to adjust the depth just a bit from 24 to 25.5 inches. Let me know what you guys think. I've got Monday off and I want to get my build on
So my new numbers are 24H x 49W x 25.5D. Top and bottom are double 3/4 MDF while the front, back and sides are single 3/4 MDF.
The ports are 2.5W x24D x 10H.
Make sure you put a divider in the middle. The airspace shouldn't be shared for optimum efficiency. Everything else I like.
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It'd be nice if they list the specs for their equipment... on their own DAMN site.
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yea, the left RCA doesnt work, probably just dirty, i can fix that.
but i think you only need 1 input for bridged output right?
You need the white and red for rca's even if its bridged. If the left doesn't work, you're screwed. Make sure you can fix it before you buy that amp, even if it's only $30.
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I'd buy it, as long as I knew it was in good condition.
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How much for the amp?
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What sub is that and what voice coil does it have?
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Yeah, I didn't realize it was a post from 2 DIFFERENT people. Sorry.
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So you're saying the design with the port in the middle is more efficient than my L-shaped design that I have?
No.
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well my gandma passed the monday after mothers day, and i was heading to ga. for the services on friday that just passed, well i leave and get 20-30 mins from home and my timeing belt breaks on the car while half ass fuckin with a corvete going 100+ on the interstate. well today i got around to checking out the car to see if i could just replace the belt and be done.
well ill be god damed if the motor isnt totaly screwd, i removed my covers and droped the motor a few inches so i could get a bite on the crank bolt, and that bish just spun like there was nothing attaced to it, so i came to the conclusion that when the belt broke, all the pistons slaped my valves and bent the valves and busted holes in each of my pistons , mainly because there is no compression at all , i can spin the crank freely by hand with so little force i proly wouldnt dent a soda can... im so pissed lol... its a 94 honda accord, i dont have but 300 from when i bought it, but i was hopeing i could slap a belt on it and put it out at the road for $1100 and let someone talk me down to 900 and just buy something else....
i need to see how much a replacement motor would be and new cv joints while im at it... might not be worth my time but dam that car was fast... 130+ mph with ease
You were trying to race a 'Vette???
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very impressive. how did you pull off 149.XX with 1 15?
Box design.
Just a guess. -
What about a L-shaped box?
It would be better than your current design.
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From the exaggeration of the post, he may work for Memphis.
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Sounds pretty good for only 650 watts. What amp is that?
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Why is this design inefficient?
The airspace for both subs is in the middle, meaning that the air pressure from each sub is cancelling out when it gets to the port. You honestly would have a better, more efficient box setup with ports on opposites sides. That box design alone is probably costing you 5-8db easy.
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I have a box designed exactly like this, and it's rather inefficient. I'm already in the process of doing something else.
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Steelcity do you think I should go ahead and install everything?
I wouldn't connect a 3rd amp on that alternator, otherwise you'll risk your car stalling out, and you WILL get embarrassed. I only have 2 amps on my system, and can't even get the volume more than halfway up w/out voltage drops. I can't imagine what 3 amps would do.
Wait to see how the module that you ordered works first, then if you feel like you have enough voltage, then add those additional subs and amp. -
I am gettin impatient.
I can now run test tones without a major voltage drop.
My current system is:
All 1/0 guage wiring
140 amp alt
missing link module comming this week
2 Stinger Power2 SP1000 batteries
1 Sundown SAX-100.2 for mids and tweets.
1 RF 1501BD on 2 2006 Kicker L7s
I can now do test tones without any major voltage drops.
Who would feel comfertable adding a 2nd RF 1501BD and 2 more L7 10s with this setup for music?
I know its not ideal but who here that knows what there talking about would go for it.
I'm looking at 180 amps of current into music at clipping. (Test tones would be 280 amps of current but I don't drive around listening to test tones.LOL)
Who thinks I should go for it?
Or should I wait?
Get a bigger alternator, although the module should help. Everything else appears to be sufficient for what you're trying to do. What are you impatient about?
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"I like It", from too short's "Get Off The Stage Album". Whole Album bumps pretty hard.
Nice video steve.
Thanks. I woulda never found that song or album. I didn't even realize Short Dog dropped an album in the last year.
Interesting video Steve. Don't think I've seen a guy hair trick before.
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What song is that by Too Short?
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legally thats all i can say. he is known as "limp rick" now though.
Ouch.
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i started a post in his section about it. hopefully it would help. i am frustrated. my voltage was perfectly fine until i hooked my 1400.4 up to my doors. then all hell broke loose. i was playing some screwed music at idle and my damn truck turned off. i was pissed.
LMAO! I don't mean to laugh, but that's funny as hell. You're running 3 amps right? What did you expect to happen?
Just a guess.
Wait to see how the module that you ordered works first, then if you feel like you have enough voltage, then add those additional subs and amp.
Enclosure Option For A Pair Of Dc Level4 18's
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Yeah, LIKE THAT!!! Thanks for stealing my next box design. I guess I shoulda kept my mouth shut.