bbca1974
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Posts posted by bbca1974
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This is what i'm looking for in an alarm for my ride.
First off it has no power windows, locks, or powered hatch so i do NOT want a fancy unit that has lock/unlock +remote start + trunk open etc etc blah blah blah.
i want:
a central unit
sensors for me to wire, at LEAST three maybe more.
remote with just ARM and DISARM
and Horn/noise maker
whats out there that has had proven results that fits my application????
-Drew
what is your application ,i,e what kind of car do you have ? it sounds like you have a base model something in whixh case you should do it yourself ! I mean there isn't hardly anything to it .
actuall wires to connect to in a base model situation are not that many- door trigger which means find the wire that feeds the domelight it's negative signal a door pin wire usually works but you need to test it to make sure that both doors can be "sensed " from the same wire .You do this by finding said wire and probing it with your ground type test light close both pin switches and your light should come on .open one it should go off close it and open the other one .repeat as many times as you have doors or hatches (which maybe or maybe not be covered.
parking lights will either be negative or positive trigger meaning it takes a ground or 12 volts to turn on .Cars with the parking light switch on the column can be tested there at the column harness ,a ground type test light will either turn on when the positive trigger parking lights are turned on or will turn on the negative trigger parking lights.For cars with switches on the dash (usually positive trigger) verify that the wire you are going to use isn't the dimmer wire by probing the wire ,turn on the lights (Test light should be on) and roll the dimmer if your test light dims ,keep searching .
the ignition and starter wire are generally in the same harness ,find the ignition wire by probing with ground type test light this wire will turn on with the key and stay lit when the key is turned to the starting position .the starter wire should be tested the same way but it only kights when the key is turned to start.
Since some cars have 2 starter wires verify that you have the right one by cutting the wire and trying the key if it doesn't start you have the right wire if not reconnect the wire and keep searching .some fords and nissans have 2 starter wires....
main power is generally recommended to be obtained at the battery,if you fuse it at the battery and have problems you could just pull the fuse .In contrast to that main power usually can be gotten under the dash or at the fuse block.the onlly draw back is that if you experience problems and your valet switch doesn't work you will then have to get back under the dash to disconnect .
there are a few thing s to remember when doing alarms : a ground type test light is not the recommended tool !
a dmm is the way to go or an airbag safe self powered "logic tester is 2nd (i use this the most) .
when looking for wires in the column or ignition harnes be weary of harnesses wrapped in yellow tape those are airbag wires and the wrong move there could be disastrous to both the installer and the car .
figure out where all of your wires are going to come from first ,i generally run all of my wires to one spot and connect them to the alarms harness by twisting the wires together and using one end of the butt connector asa snow cap ,it's a good connection and in the event of trouble you have a "test port for all of your wiring.
also make sure you ground to a good solid panel not just a bolt on somewhere under the dash ,i usually go to the drivers kick panel .
If any one watns a full demo on alarms just request and i will go to a step by stepwith pics for alarms ,actuators ,remote start or any other alarm options .
good luck drew!-case
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There ya go.
Engine Driven Compressor.
Slow yo roll and Reeaad.
sweet ! thx
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i found this website..hope it helps.. http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/
dubie is the shit thanks for the link I found some ish on there that i have been looking a few months for .
and the big 3 looks fine ! good job!
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aircraft grade aluminum cable (bike lock) through one of those locks ran through box/sheet metal makes me sleep just a lil better at night. i'm talking to the shop in vacaville soon enough as to how much they'll charge me for an alarm
-Drew
what kind of car do you have?
you should try to install that alarm yourself they aren't that hard depending on the vehicle.
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I don't know if you guys remember dave rivera's new beetle install .I think he did it for metra but am not sure but his was controlled by the mirror controls -there is no steering wheel in the car ! quite cool but impractical .
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as far as i know there aren't any production cars using steer by wire. Lexus comes the closest with their autopark .After doing some research some say that lexus is steer by wire and some say it is not ,who's to say?drive by wire used to pertain to throttle control.eliminating the cable makes it easier for integration of safety devices
here is an interesting article to shed some light
http://editorial.carsales.com.au/car-review/2726195.aspx
and a semi funny demo of the lexus auto park
the bmw autopark seems to work well here is the vid:
and here is the wikipedia info
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way to go ,that gives new meaning to "man I just locked up my sub" lol
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dei is good stuff! lifetime warranty on the brain (if installed by a authorized dealer)
audiovox does have some good stuff and they warranty the remotes as well
I have heard that is autopage is good but I haven't done but a few so I can't really say but alot of people have told me good things
crimestopper is decent ,I haven't tested their warranty ,they are definitely lower cost .
imho dei is the way to go ,go for a python 460 or something similar it has an onboard shock sensor and another port for ad on sensors like glass break ,digital tilt and motion .
every alarm i have ever done has had a positive trigger,a negative trigger,and an instant negative trigger( positive for ford style domelights negative for almost every other vehicle and the instant trigger is for hood pin /trunk pin or both if you chose.
let me know if you need any help or guidance ,I have done literally thousands of alarms -and that offer is open to anyone who needs help ,guidance ,or tech assistance.
Also if anyone is in the portland area i could possibly do it for you.
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I gots gas money to bring it up to portland and beer too .Bitches well that ride will get ya plenty around here!dont worry, when its done and MOBILE, a lot more people will get to see it in person
Sick install man and the best part it was done right there in your back yard!
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kinda new to the airide scene ,what is an edc?
I like the idea of a driven compressor,hook your pressure switch to both the clutch and your remote start .......
I want to do something like this so i can run air tools .
If I supplied enough capacity do you guys think it would run an air saw?
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a jig saw is a good thing to have as well .I built my own router table with a cheap sears router ( 60 bucks ) . my dust collector is made out of a 5 gallon bucket ,i cut the lid to slip over the router and put a ton of extra cuts on the sealing lip for easy removal .then i screwed the lid to the bottom of the table and the dust bucket slides over the whole shooting match and with a shop vac attached I don't make nearly as much mess .A friend let me borrow his variable speed control and now one of these is next on my list .
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aint that the truth
Yeah I tried an experiment when i was building my closet build out and to save time after my kids tore down my closet racks .It didn't save any time at all in fact i ended up cutting them again .they were so wavy I was disappointed .I do however have them cut my sheets in 2 so i can get them in my wagon .
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x3
yeah you can't lose they have a lifetime warranty on the brain if it's installed by a licensed dealer
I have done many of these and have experienced almost no problemswith them
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKQTo0w5sNE
wow pretty impressive !
I wonder what it'd do with some meade attitude thrown in ( 8 18's in a phase box )
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better a shot to the ear then to the nuts..lol
man,fuck that ! when you get married (most of us eventually will) we lose our balls anyway ! what's the worst that could happen as a result of a balls shot maybe not be able to make another kid to eventually have to pay child support on ?
At least you'd still be able to hear that deep bass rather than just having it tickle your nose!
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And he will strike down upon the with great vengance and furious anger, those who attempt to look at the nutritional contents on this bottle.
lmao
I almost choked on my big kahuna burger !
earlier i had a royale w/ cheese
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lmao what's their seasonal ? oh i know how we'll know it's the that says bad ass mutha *&cka on the bottle
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Is there an online source for your manual that way i can just go check it out without too much trouble ?
Uhm ima dork -I didn't see the link and yes I would have to agree that it looks like theres no delete feature .
are there any other pages than the few on the site?
try this disconnect power ,reconnect and reprogram once again .Sounds like a shot in the dark
GOOD LUCK !
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Link.
I can also scan my actual Manual if need be.
Is there an online source for your manual that way i can just go check it out without too much trouble ?
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well i had a baseball game tonite and i took a baseball to the side of the head....rite on my ear.....and i can only hear a little out of it....and the doc says that i basically blew my eardrum up!! and i was givin these big ass 500mg pills and some ear drops....and that it should be back to normal....dont no when but it should....oh and my dumb ass...the first thing i do when i get in my truck is turn up the system and holy shit the pressure on the ear hurt so frickin bad...lol
THIS SUCKS!!!
Once when i was in 2nd grade i took a racquet ball to the ear and to this day i still have problems with it .I wish you the best of luck !
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On alarms/remote starts there is usually an option to delete all transmitters... incase say the remote gets lost. Do that first then reprogram.
I agree delete the remotes reprogram but make sure that you also remove the antenna from the windshield first ( do that to check range )
I would also check your grounds both at the alarm and at the battery .
Also keep in mind that not all alarms are created equal
DEI makes great alarms that is what i have and have installed literally thousands of them .They have a lifetime warranty on the brain
Audiovox ( say what ? ) actually makes a few decent alarms their 2 way 996 which has been replaced with the 997 is also decent they have a lifetime warranty both on the brain and remotes which is very beneficial .plus if you are savy you can crack the brain open and turn up the range to reach a 2mile radius rather than the standard 1 mile radius . A few years back the rep showed me exactly how to do this .
If all else fails replace your k-9 with a better unit
Remember an alarm is only as good as the trust you have in it
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Steve ,seats look sick can't wait to see the cover for the front ! you never cease to amaze !
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I am curious to know the source of the engine noise and how you went about getting rid of it.
First off Steve Stellar job bro ! WHat an epic build ! I found a link to your site on realm of excursion then took more than 10 hours and read all of your dialog and most of a few key people . I have been inspired and will definitely take pics to post.
I too am interested in how you got rid of the engine noise.
and Good Job pushin them limits!
Problem With My Alarm! Please Help!
in Security Center - Car/Home Alarms, devices, tactics, tips....
Posted
what is the time line ? By timeline i mean what happened recently that could contribute to the symptoms.
I,e did you run any new wires or have stereo work done ? or add any aftermarket gear ?
you mentioned that there are lights on the little unit under the dash ,I am not familiar with your exact model but i am willing to guess that what you are looking at is your shock sensor .Since alarm brains tyoically don't have lights on them ,they are supposed to be hidden to help secure your ride. I would verify that the fuses are good and take it to the shop who installed it let them take a stab at it .Since it has been over a year the unit itself may not have any warranty left but they may have a lifetime on labor ,so have them check it .
Remember if you can't trust your alarm it does you no good !
A few other questions that i have are : you said that the light do not flash ,no beeps,no led flashing either. Does it still have lock and unlock working? what about the starter disable ? Does your actual valet switch work ? ( it'll be hard to tell when you have no visual or audible feedback from the alarm )
Good luck !